THE NEW MONTHLY NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE. No. 49.] FEBRUARY 1, 1818. ORIGINAL COMMUNICATIONS. JOURNAL OF A TOUR IN ENGLAND, IN 1815 and 1816, From the M. S. Notes of their Imperial Highnesses the Archdukes JOHN & LEWIS of AUSTRIA. ON our arrival at Boulogne, October 21st, 1815, we alighted at the Hotel d'Angleterre, and the first thing we did was to enquire for the captain commanding the royal yacht which was to convey us over. The yacht was in the road; the next day was fixed for our departure; but during the night a storm obliged all the vessels to leave the barbour. We were therefore necessitated to postpone our departure for one day, and we availed ourselves of this interval to visit the environs of the town, The port is formed by the small river Liane, and by a basin of recent construction. Two moles project into the sea; the eastern one is prolonged by a dyke to a wooden battery upon piles, and upon the western there is a battery adjoining to the dyke. The coast is steep: it is formed by a series of bills which exhibit calcareous strata. A sand-bank projects into the sea, and this has rendered it necessary to carry out the two stone dykes to facilitate the egress and prevent the mouth from being choked up. At ebb tide the vessels are left aground in the mud; the sand-bank is then dry to the extent of more than 200 fathoms; and it is frequented by women for the purpose of gathering the muscles deposited upon it by the sea. At flood there is 14 feet water in the port and against the eastern dyke. We witnessed the difficulty there is in entering the harbour; a vessel which had not sufficiently gained the wind for the purpose being obliged to stand out again to sea. Boulogne contains 13,000 inhabitants. It is built on the slope of the hills on the right bank of the Liane. The town is irregular, and the houses of a greyish stone, which, together with the bareness of the surrounding eminences, gives it a dull and dreary appearance. The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in commerce and the fisheries: the herringfishery is very considerable, and is said to produce 1,500,000 francs per annum, It is carried on in the Channel towards NEW MONTHLY MAG,-No, 49, [VOL. IX. the English coast. Packets sail regularly every day for Dover, and this passage is preferred to that of Calais. The remains of Napoleon's camp are still to be seen. On the east side of the harbour are fortifications and batteries which mutually flank each other, and have occasioned this part to be called the iron coast. At the extremity of the heights to the north of Boulogne was the principal telegraph which corresponded with others; along the coast. The scaffolding for the pyramid intended to have been erected is still standing. It was on the strand that Napoleon reviewed his troops. To the west the heights are fortified. On either side there are forts, which at flood tide are surrounded with water; they are built of stone, and are placed upon different points of the coast. The basin of the harbour, and all the works that now exist here, were the creation of Buonaparte ; but in spite of them all, the entrance into and departure from this port have continued to be difficult; and it is easy to conceive how much time it would have taken for so great a number of vessels as were here collected, to get out one by one, as they would have been obliged to do. All the boats were built in the basin, and along the river; here too they were stationed, and two hundred thousand soldiers were encamped on the heights. Of all these preparations nothing is now to be seen but the traces of the fortifications, the works of the port which are no longer kept up, and two large halfrotten flat-bottomed boats. Such is all that remains of the immense enterprize which cost France upwards of three hundred millions (12,500,000/). A great deal has been written both for and against the question whether the invasion of England would have been practicable or not. So much is certain, that it must have been attended with very material difficulties. The embarkation could not have taken place without being perceived; the vessels must have quitted the port one after another, and drawn up in line in the road to risk the passage; during which they would have had to cope with the English flect, and after all to land the troops on a coast lined with rocks. Whoever is acquainted with the advantages pos 2 Observations of the Archdukes of Austria sessed by a large ship at sea Over small vessels will readily conceive what would have been the issue of the conflict. Calm day's are morcover but rare, and such a one must have been chosen to deprive the English fleet of part of its advantages. Lastly it would have been very difficult to cross with vessels without decks in stormy weather. From all these considerations it is obvious that a landing could not have been effected in England but by a kind of miracle--and then what immense difficulties would there have been to encounter in the country itself! Of this ail who have ever seen England must be thoroughly convinced. If the motive of Napoleon in this enterprize was to ruin England, he completely failed, since the extraordinary armaments which he occasioned her to set on foot, proved fatal to him in Spain and Portugal. He seems himself to have been aware of the difficulties which opposed the execution of his plan, since he eagerly seized the opportunity of directing his forces against a quarter where he discovered, as he thought, a probability of success. There were several packets in the harbour; two sailed at noon with a favourable wind. We saw them depart with regret, while etiquette obliged us to wait for the yacht. At length about four o'clock she appeared in the roads; but the captain determined not to sail till the next morning, because the wind was stormy, and he had orders, as he said, to land us at Dover in the day-time. Oct. 22. A fine morning promised us a favourable passage. The white chalk cliffs of the English coast soon appeared in sight. At 10 in the morning we went on board the yacht, which is a very pretty little vessel. As it belongs to the Admiralty it is fitted up with elegance. It contains a sitting-room, a spacious eating-room, and a kitchen. The two former are wainscoted with mahogany, and adorned with gilding; and the furniture of the sitting room is of blue satin. At one end of this apartment is a beautiful stove of polished steel, aud at the other a lamp the light of which falls upon the steersman's compass. Two adjoining closets contain every convenience for persons afflicted with seasickness. A plentiful breakfast was provided in the cating-room, but nobody ventured to touch it for fear of sickness. At three o'clock we reached Dover road. The houses, which are almost all black give a dull appearance to the [Feb. 1, town. As it was low water we were obliged to have recourse to the boat to enter the harbour. The quays and the whole shore were covered with a great concourse of people. It is impossible to describe the first impression which a stranger receives on arriving in this country. He fancies himself transported into another world: nothing there resembles what he has seen elsewhere. Buildings, carriages, horses, men, dress, physiognomy-are all different from what he has been accustomed to. He perceives in the lowest classes a kind of elegance both in person and costume; and their features retain an expression of calmness and serenity even in numerous assemblages. The carriages that were in waiting conveyed us to our inn: it commands a view of the harbour, which was full of shipping. It is dry at ebb-tide. The entrance is narrow and obstructed by a sand-bank, so that it cannot be passed except at high water. We went to see the new citadel. The town is situated on the sea-shore at the entrance of a valley. The old castle of Dover lies to the east and the citadel to the west. We remarked the beauty of the bricks of the citadel. The captain of engineers, who accompanied us and was very attentive, informed us that coal-ashes are mixed with the clay of which the bricks are made-a fact which was afterwards confirmed to us in London. The chalk found here serves for making the lime employed in building. The view from the height is magnificent; the coasts of Boulogne and Calais are distinctly seen. Oct. 23. We started at nine o'clock. The post-horses are excellent, the roads magnificent, the drivers safe, and travelling extremely expeditious. The country is better cultivated than in France, which gives it an agreeable appearance though not beautiful in itself. The soil is chalky, mixed with silex. In front of almost all the houses is a small patch filled with flowers and southern plants that pass the winter in the open air and afford a favourable idea of the mildness of the climate. The wind-mills are numerous because there is but little water in these parts. A great number of villas of a peculiar and pleasing architecture, surrounded with small parks, meadows clothed with the most brilliant verdure, superb flocks, and fields encompassed with quick hedges and trees render the country truly charming. 1818.] during their Tour in England, in 1815 and 1816. Canterbury, 16 miles from Dover is the first stage. It is situated in a valley, and its beautiful cathedral rises majestically above the houses. As we wished not to stop we deferred inspecting it till our return. The post-house is at the same time an inn-a circumstance very common in England as well as in Germany. Pursuing our route, we were surprized at the great number of turnpikes where toll most be paid. They consist of two small houses the road between which is obstructed by a moveable bar; on either side is a narrow passage for pedestrians, and in the middle of the road is a machine for indicating the weight of carriages the maintenance of these roads is undertaken by private individuals, who pay an advance to the state, and possess by act of parliament the privilege of levying the tolls, which are regulated according to the expense attending the repair of the road. These turnpike roads admit only two carriages abreast; on each side they have a path raised two or three fect for foot passengers. The roads are kept in good order with broken silex. Night overtook us at Dartford, and it was eight o'clock when we reached London. The house of the Duke of St. Albans, which was provided for our reception with every thing that can render life agreeable and comfortable is pleasantly situated in one of the best quarters in Westminster, near the promenades. On the following days till the 3d of November, we were engaged in visits of etiquette and others; in taking notes for the journey which we intended to make in the country, and for which we were not sufficiently prepared; and lastly in equipping ourselves in the English fashion, that we might run about the town with greater freedom. At eight in the morning of the 3rd of November, we quitted London. The suburbs of this capital are daily extending. Houses and whole streets are built upon speculation and almost immediately occupied. The country soon begins to rise, and the hills covered with villas and gardens are very picturesque. It is on the north side that you have the finest view of London when the weather is clear. The road which about a year ago passed over a steep hill, now scarcely ascends at all, a cut having been made in the hill, which shortens the way three quarters of a mile, and is much less fatiguing for the horses. Another road passes over this tunnel by means of a bridge 60 or 70 feet high. The country is every where well cultivated. Silex and chalk abound in it. The latter is spread upon the fields to render the soil more friable. Chipping Barnet is the first stage and St. Alban's the second. At the latter place we stopped at the White Hart, a very good inn, where the traveller finds, as indeed he does all over England, very clean apartments, excellent fare, and a polite reception. The abbey of St. Albans is an edifice remarkable for its antiquity. The church, built of chalk, is situated on an eminence; its construction dates from three different periods, and is consequently very irregular. It is said to have been begun by the Anglo-Saxons. The architecture of the second period is Gothic, and the third was about the time of the Reformation. Henry VIII. and Elizabeth, when obliged to quit London on account of the plague, held their courts of justice in this church. Hiere too is shown the tomb of the patron of England. On a slight eminence to the south of the town is the site of the ancient Roman city of Verulamium: some vestiges of its walls still exist. In a neighbouring valley, near a small stream, is seen the silk-mill of Mr. WooLAM. The machines employed here are on the same plan as those for spinning cotton. The silk goes through twelve preparations. All the machinery is set in motion by water. We discovered nothing very new in the manipulation, except two contrivances. By means of the one, if a thread of the spindle breaks, the machine stops of itself. By the other, the silk is wound more equally upon the bobbins than by the usual process. The proprietor of this manufactory, who employs 120 persons, has annexed to it a school for the children of the work-people. We arrived late in the evening at Beachwood, a fine mansion belonging to Sir JOHN SEBRIGHT. He is a great farmer, and explained to us in detail the agricultural system of the English and particularly the methods introduced by him on his own estate. The turnips grow to a great size at Beachwood. Sir John told us that he had once sent to his sister nineteen partridges inclosed in the hollow of one of those roots. [IIere the illustrious travellers describe several agricultural machines, which, though new to them, must 4 Observations on England by the Archdukes of Austria. be well known to the majority of our readers.] Sir John Sebright possesses a flock of a thousand sheep. They are of two kinds-merinos, and the native breed. As he keeps them principally to fatten, he prefers the latter, which in this respect possesses many advantages over the merinos. We passed the evening very agreeably; the baronet's eldest daughter, who devotes much of her time to the study of chemistry, showed us an experiment of Wollaston's, which is now known, but was then new to us, and which consists in transforming a thimble into a small galvanic battery capable of heating a platinum wire red-hot. We saw so many things at Beachwood that it was impossible to make memorandums of them all; but Sir John promised to call upon us on our return to London, and to give us a supplement of notices of the greatest value to us.For the rest, he made such good use of the time we passed at his house, that we gained more knowledge of him than we could have possibly collected elsewhere in so short a space. He is the true model of the English gentleman: possessing extensive information acquired in his travels, and speaking French and German with equal fluency, he is capable of discussing a great variety of subjects, and always in an interesting manner. The mansion of the Duke of BEDFORD at Woburn, where we stopped on the 5th of November, is with its gardens and park one of the most superb establishments in England. All those things that constitute in general the most pleasing ornaments of English country-houses are here found in the highest perfection. The library is copious and selected with judgment. We received great pleasure from contemplating a great variety of fine paintings, especially by Vandyke,'and many portraits, among which we distinguished that of Anna Boleyn by Holbein. In the entrance hall is a bust of Napoleon in Carrara marble. In walking through the gardens we were particularly struck with the beauty of a very spacious orangery. In the centre rise eight columns of white marble which surround an antique vase of very large dimensions, and adorned with figures in relievo, and several small vases also of white marble. In a niche is seen a copy of the Apollo Belvidere. At the end of the orangery is the entrance to a temple, supported by four columns of the Ionic order, crected in memory of the late Duke of Bedford, brother to the [Feb. 1, present possessor of the title. Within it contains a cabinet, the ceiling of which is gilt, and in which are placed the busts of Fox and of his friends, Gen. FITZPATRICK, and Lords LAUDERDALE, ROBERT SPENCER, GREY, HOLLAND, and HARVEY.* There is a Chinese house fitted up. with Chinese and Japanese furniture and vases, and a menagerie which contains several very rare animals. We had never seen a park so full of deer as that of Woburn. Those handsome creatures are so tame as to come close under the windows of the mansion. The farm is half a mile from the principal habitations, and exhibits with all its buildings, the appearance of a small village. Here are found several things worthy of notice, among others a steamengine which sets in motion a threshing machine and two mills. The manner in which the motion is communicated is highly ingenious, but a clear idea of it cannot be given without a drawing. It was the late Duke who was a celebrated agriculturist, that erected all the buildings on this fine estate. On leaving Woburn the country is rather uniform though well cultivated; but as soon as you enter Leicestershire there is a change both in the aspect of the country and in the cultivation. Its situation is more elevated, and it is evident, from its consisting chiefly of meadows and pasturage, that the keeping of cattle is the principal occupation of the inhabitants. We were at Leicester on the 6th. The houses are built of brick of a very lively red and the roofs slated, which produces a very pleasing effect. WILSON's foundry was the first manufactory that we saw in this town. Here nothing is made but very fine work and machines. The horizontal wind-mills for which Wilson has obtained a patent are very beautiful.KELLY'S knitting manufactory is considerable. There are fourteen large frames set in motion by a steam-engine. By this method the manufacturer is enabled to furnish for 14 shillings what formerly cost 40. The produce of this establishment is very great: it sells from 7 to 800 dozen pair of braces every week. Great part of these goods is exported to America. On the 7th we arrived at Beaudesert, a fine country-seat belonging to the Marquis of ANGLESEA. During our stay here we gained some insight into the way in which the wealthy English proprietors live VEY CHRISTIAN COOMBE? 1818.] New Applications of Mr. Lester's Convertor. in the country. Nobody appears before 9 o'clock in the morning: at 10 the family assembles in the drawing-room to a copious breakfast of tea, coffee, bread and butter, toast, boiled eggs, cutlets, &c. Breakfast lasts an hour, after which the company separate, and each employs or amuses himself as he pleases till dinner, which is fixed for six or seven in the evening. Half an hour earlier they again meet in the library or drawingroom. In the morning gentlemen may appear in boots, but in the evening they are expected to be dressed as in town.-The ladies also are full dressed. Dinner presents the best of every thing that a good kitchen is capable of affording. The plate is very handsome, frequently silver gilt. After the soup, cold punch is served. It is customary next to drink a glass of wine at the choice of the mistress of the house, and to her health: after which, every time you chuse to drink, it is usual to invite those whom you know or who happen to sit near you to drink with you. Each helps the rest from the dish that stands before him. After the dessert the ladies rise, the servants retire, and the claret begins to cir culate from right to left. The company then rejoin the ladies in the library or the drawing-room. They enter into conver sation, and each withdraws just when he pleases. Riding, shooting, and hunting, are the principal amusements. The ladies frequently take part in the former. Foxhunting is a very dangerous sport, because it is necessary to follow on horseback, leaping hedges and ditches. The hare is hunted in the same manner. The dogs are admirably trained, and the guns excellent. As all the opulent land-holders pass great part of the winter in the country, relations and neighbours assemble and form parties numerous enough to supply the place of those in town. The tone which pervades them is highly agreeable, free and easy, but decent; and there is a kind of simple and hearty hospitality and politeness which cannot fail to charm all who are capable of appreciating them. The private apartments are furnished and arranged with the utmost convenience. In these mansions you find every thing that can contribute to physi⚫ cat comfort, and the cultivation of the mind. The society of the females, who are in general very well informed, often indeed better than the gentlemen, affords all the resources that can be desired. If 5 you add to this the perfect liberty of HAVING promised in one of your former numbers to give you what infor mation I could collect relative to the adaptation of Mr. LESTER's new meleave to inform you that it is applied to chanic power the Convertor, I now beg a crane at the West India Docks with the greatest advantage both as to security and dispatch. Six men sitting upon benches about 20 inches high, with their feet set against stretchers similar to what the watermen use in their wherries, three men on each side with their feet opposite to each other, pulling alternately at a wooden bar like an auger handle, from 16 to 20 cwt. 40 feet high in 90 raise with facility a hogshead of sugar seconds, and this without any risk of danger from a retrograde motion of the weight. Thus all accidents are removed from the pale of probability by paratus, producing a sure guard not in the very nature and formation of the apthe least dependant upon the uncertain attention of man, by which much human life will be saved. It is clearly ascertained that many hundred persons in a year in the British Empire only lose their lives or limbs with cranes, handspikes, and capstan bars, the whole of which accidents may be prevented by the genera! adoption of this wonderful invention.Although the weight is raised with this velocity, no more than the power of three men is applied at once, as the other three at the return of the stroke have a cessation of exertion. This alternate application of their force gives great relief to the labourer, and enables him to continue much longer at this work with less fatigue than by any other motion, and will in consequence when applied to ships' pumps render the most essential service to his Majesty's navy, as it will ultimately save from destruction many valuable ships' crews and cargoes. It appears to be most happily and equally useful not only to cranes of all kinds, but for working the capstan, windlasses, pumps, raising masts, yards, sails, &c. and working a ship into and out of harbour, and all other purposes which have hitherto been accomplished by the haul |