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their appearance, all dressed alike. We saw many good shops here. We bought a bottle of " Eau de Cologne Perfectionné" in one of them, superior to any I have ever met with; but we did not purchase more than one bottle, as we thought our friends in England would not be satisfied with Cologne Water made in Dusseldorf. We this evening bade adieu (finally, as then thought) to our new friends Colonel and Mrs. Ross, as they went on in the steam-boat, having a close carriage on board. Mrs. R. fancied she could make herself tolerably comfort. able by occupying it. Our acquaintance was also brought to an end with the gentleman and his two daughters. They were on their way to Boppardt, to put themselves under the care of Dr. Schmitz, a celebrated professor of the hydropathic system, who resides at the largest and most conspicuous looking house in Boppardt, commanding a lovely view of the Rhine (from which we afterwards saw it). Here the Doctor receives his patients to board, during the administration of his water regimen. Our steam-boat acquaintances were going to stay there three months, though apparently quite well.
Soon after this, we met with a party who consisted of foreigners only, except ourselves, and, perhaps, a gentleman or two. We soon made friends with a Dutch party, whom I have before mentioned; the Baron and Baroness von Cutargeth, from the province of Goulderland, and a young lady with them, Miss des Jombe, of Utrecht, whose appearance was quite that of an English girl. They were on their way to the baths of Wiesbaden ; and till they arrived at Biberech (where passengers leave the steamer, who are going to Wiesbaden), we were altogether in each other's society. They were very agreeable, well-informed people ; all spoke French fluently, and Miss des Jombe spoke pretty foreign English, having been educated at a school in the neighbourhood of Utrecht, kept by an Englishwoman ; and where she had been in the habit of speaking the language three days each week. She seemed at first rather shy of speaking to me in English; but the Baron urged her to do so, instead of continuing to talk in French; and I was really surprised to find how well she understood me, when I spoke slowly. She could read English, she said, with great ease; and spoke of the pleasure she had derived from reading James's novels. The Baron would now and then come to us, and laughingly inquire whether she was improving in her lesson? Though this nice Dutch party had sailed with us from Einmerich, until this morning, I had only observed the Baron, who was too remarkable looking to escape notice. He wore a most grotesque fur cap, pepper-and-salt-coloured coat, with an order on the left side ; from his waistcoat was suspended (by a massive gold chain) an enormous bunch of cornelian seals; on the forefinger of his right hand was an equally enormous ring, of the same stone; and he was almost incessantly smoking from the largest meerschaum I ever saw. Yet withal, his manners were very gentlemanly; and his wife had quite an air distinguè. The steamer did not stop at Cologne, except to receive some passengers. The old city looked well from the Rhine. We reached Bonn about five, where we landed; as the vessel was going on during the night, and we had no intention to go on with
it. We took up our abode at the Hôtel de l'Etoile d'Or, by the Baron's recommendation, who also went there : it is situated in the Grande Place, and is one of the most delightful hotels I was at on the continent. My bedroom looked into a square open court, along the sides of which were ranged, tier above tier, the most beautiful exotics, oleanders (red and white), the cactus speciocissimus, a great variety of choice geraniums, orange trees in bloom; and up the white walls of the court, most luxurious vines were trained : and such an air of neatness about every thing; the surface of the flower-pots all covered with moss, of the prettiest kind. After tea, we went to see the Cathedral : we were fortunate in finding the doors open, as there were persons in it, engaged in decorating the bishop's throne, to the left of the grand altar, as he was to perform high mass there the following Sunday. Here I, for the first time, saw a priest receiving confession : his face was concealed by a piece of white linen: the penitent was a man.
The altar was decked out most theatrically.
We next went to see the exterior of the University; interesting to the English, being the place where Prince Albert was educated. It is a large and handsome pile of building. We travelled from London to Dusseldorf with a Major Smith, who, with his wife and family, lives here: he told W— that he gave a series of balls during the winter, which were more popular than any others in the town; by his allowing the young men to dance with girls of their own age, instead of the foreign custom of dancing first with all the married ladies, of whatever age they might be. He also said the Princes Albert and Ernest frequently came to his balls during their residence at the University; always attended by their tutor, Count Kolowrath. We walked through most part of the town, meeting students at every turn, dressed fantastically; their mouths invariably garnished with either meerschaums, or the more humble cigar. Here are several fashionable-looking shops, and many of the houses are very pretty. Almost every window and balcony was filled with choice plants, in bloom.
Thursday morning, about eight o'clock, we embarked in the Elberfeldt, to proceed as far as Mayence the same night. The sail was through the heart of the famed Rhine scenery ; and my new friend, Miss des Jombe, having been up the Rhine before, kindly pointed out to me every thing of interest. We first passed, on the right, the grey ruins of Godesberg: a little further to the left, are the Seven Mountains; the highest of which is called the Drachenfels, or Dragon's Rock; with the picturesque ruin of a castle on its summit. The next reach of the river brought into view the castle of Rolandseck, and the beautiful island of Normenworth ; on which is a large hotel, formerly a convent, to which a romantic and affecting legend is attached ; but will spare the reader ; for, doubtless, he or she have also been up the Rhine. Suffice it to say, from here to Mayence, the river presents a succession of most lovely pictures : castles, convents, towns, and villages seem to have dropped down in the most picturesque situations. All the mountains, rising in every direction, within view of the Rhine, are cultivated with vines to the very summit. In steep places, the vineyards are partitioned, by low walls of loose stones put together, to prevent the earth giving way. We saw men at work in them, in places
that seemed quite unapproachable. To-day, instead of dining in the saloon, which we had hitherto done, dinner was set out upon deck; so that no part of the scenery might be lost. One o'clock is the invariable hour for it. How the cookery is managed, appears to me quite marvellous, as a great variety of dishes are daily supplied; and the waiting is managed most expertly. I should think there must be a perpetual washing going on; for at breakfast, dinner, and tea, every one has a clean—though rather damp-napkin set. Soon after dinner, a magnificent view opened upon us. To the left, on the top of inaccessible-looking bold rocks, stood the strongly-guarded fortress of Ehrenbreitstein; and a little to the right, the large, picturesque town of Coblentz, with its minaret-like spires, and bridge of boats; and the blue Moselle gently yielding up its waters to the Rhine. We soon after passed Boppardt and St. Goar, and came to the Lurley burg, where three small cannon were discharged from the steamer ; the effect of which was most startling, as the sound was repeated from side to side. At Biberich, our Dutch friends took their leave of us, with a regret that was mutual, that our acquaintance should so soon terminate ; but we parted with the possibility of meeting again at Wiesbaden, as we then contemplated returning homewards by the Nassau baths.
We reached Mayence about nine. Being a strongly fortified town, W— had to surrender his passport, before they would admit us through a barrier, on landing. We went to the Hôtel de l'Europe ; and a very comfortable, and even splendid house it is : the master a most attentive person, though possessed of a superabundance of foreign politeness, bowing, and greeting us whenever we chanced to meet. At first, I forgot that it was incumbent upon me to return his salutations, however slightly. And so perfectly new to be lighted to one's bedroom by a waiter who never retired without saying, “ Ron soir, Madame.” I would describe my extraordinary German bed here, had not the kind been so frequently described by other writers.
Friday, 17th June.- Devoted to seeing Mayence. We went through the market-place, with its picturesque gable-fronted houses, to the Cathedral. It is a handsome structure, though of a mixed style of architecture; full of ancient monuments and small chapels. Our guide was an exceedingly intelligent young German woman, who spoke French well : she attracted our attention to the tomb of an Archbishop of Mayence, of the house of Saxe: “Of the same family as your Prince Albert," said she. After gratifying ourselves by an examination of every thing worth seeing here, we explored the townsaw the brazen statue erected to the memory of Guttenberg, the inventor of printing—and went into one or two booksellers shops; in one of which, W— bought Hood's “Up the Rhine," which proved a never-ending source of amusement to us. We returned to the hotel, to a private dinner, at four. An exquisite one' was served to us ; almost too great a variety of every thing; for which, the charge was only equal to three shillings English. There was a pudding much like a nice sponge-cake, to which was handed a singular sauce, composed of almonds, currants, and chopped raisins, in Rhenish red wine, sweetened. It proved, however, a very good mixture. Hearing there was to be a military concert in the evening, at the public gardens, in
the neighbourhood, W- hired an open carriage, and we went to it. We congratulated ourselves that we did so, as the Austrian and Prussian bands that play there, alternately, weekly, during the summer, have an European fame. We heard the Prussian band : they played most delightful German airs, many of their waltzes, and, to our astonishment, concluded with our national anthem, arranged as a waltz. Yet, notwithstanding this desecration, concluding the concert with it was so English, I listened to it with unmixed pleasure. The gardens were crowded with fashionables, and an immense number of military. Mayence is garrisoned equally, by the King of Prussia and Emperor of Austria : therefore, there were Prussians in their blue and red, and Austrians in white and red; besides the uniform of Hesse Darmstadt and Nassau. The band was stationed in the upper part of the garden, in an elevated tent; and beneath it, all around, were placed little wooden tables, with forms to sit upon ; all painted in the Austrian colours, red and white; and over some were awnings to match. The generality of the company sat to the tables, sipping chocolate, coffee, or the light Rhenish wines. The gardens are laid out with great taste, and full of rich, shady walks, and choice flowers. The walking entrance to them, is only half-a-mile from Mayence ; but the carriage road extends a mile further ; stretching the whole length of them. They gradually slope upwards, and in a line with the Rhine ; commanding, in every part, lovely views of it, and Mayence, with the opposite shore of Hockhuin, and the distant range of Jannus mountains. We were fortunate in seeing the whole lighted up by a brilliant sunset. I believe we were the only English that evening. The scene was very entertaining ; quite a little insight into German manners : such an ever-beginning, never-ending taking off of hats. I could perceive a slight whispering, as we passed some of the groups ; they evidently guessed our country. I wore a plaid dress on the occasion, which seemed to attract great attention amongst the German ladies.
Saturday was spent at Frankfort. We felt a most particular interest in it, from having had a relation an attaché to the English Legation there last year. We left the railway station at Cassel (the opposite river to Mayence), by an early train in the morning.
NOTICES OF NEW WORKS. An Aide-de-Camp's Recollections of Service in China, a Residence in
Hong Kong and Visits to other Islands in the Chinese Seas. By ARTHUR CUNYNGHAME, Aide-de-camp to Major-General Lord Saltoun, K.C. B., G.C.H., commanding Her Majesty's and the
Hon. East India Company's Troops in China. 2 vols. post 8vo. As Aide-de-camp to that distinguished officer Lord Saltoun, Captain Cunynghame enjoyed many opportunities for observation peculiar to his position, of which he appears laudably to have availed himself. We have had many works upon China, and they have each had their distinctive merits. Captain Cunynghame's " Recollections" are, however, not the less welcome on that account, for there is a freshness in his sketches which strongly marks their individuality, and he gives us his impressions with the frankness of a soldier and the urbanity of the gentleman. He does not profess to detail the history of the war,-that has already been sufficiently accomplished by Lieutenant Ouchterhemy and others,—he merely relates the result of hi own observations ; and these are in general very pleasing and graphic. We select the following :
LUXURIES OF EUROPEANS IN INDIA.—"No one thing, perhaps, strikes a stranger so forcibly at his first arrival in India, or one of the Company's dependencies, as the apparently luxurious life the Europeans enjoy; and, perhaps, no feeling dies away so quickly. It is, indeed, a change, after being accustomed to one small cabin for four or five months,-even that, perhaps, shared by a friend or acquaintance,-to find oneself roaming through these lofty saloons, which upon the hottest day are not without a delicious breeze, given by the never-ceasing motion of the punka. Everything so quiet and soothing; the servants, though ever so numerous, stealing through the apartments without noise and confusion, and at the magic words Qui hi ? (Who waits ?) though spoken at the lowest pitch of the voice, one or more instantly appear, ready to bear your commands. Attached to each sleeping apartment was a bath-room, a necessary comfort to this climate. On the beds were very hard mattresses covered with China mats; thus rendering them deliciously cool. A glass window is unknown, the entire house on every side being fitted with Venetian blinds.
" Each day, at two, a tiffin was served up, after which we read, &c. until five, at which time we dressed. The palanquins were then in attendance; we drove until seven, which was the hour for dinner. It would be superfluous to detail a long list of Eastern dishes ; suffice it to say, everything was the very best
, combining the greatest luxury with true comfort and genuine hospitality, The meal being concluded, a venerable Mussulman handed a magnificent and highly scented hookah to the governor.
Chinese TEMPLE.—“During our stay I took the opportunity of visiting their temple, commonly called joss house, which was very unique, and which, I was informed, was as handsome as any in the second-rate towns in the