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"s9- prescribed a good beating for the thief, which was irn
^_ li _f mediately administered.
Ulietea We now made fail for the island of Ulietea,
which lies S. W. by W. distant seven or eight leagues from Huaheine, and at half an hour after six in the evening we were within three leagues of the shore, on the eastern side. We stood off and on all night, and when the day broke the next morning, we stood in for
Thur o the shore. We soon after discovered an opening in the reef which lies before the ifland, within which, Tupia told us, there was a good harbour. I did not however, implicitly take hi word, but sent the master out in the pinnace to examine it: he soon made the signal for the ship to follow; we accordingly stood in, and anchored in two and twenty fathom, with soft ground.
The natives soon came off to us in two canoes, each of which brought a woman and a pig. The woman, we supposed, was a mark of confidence, and the pig was a present; we received both with proper acknowledgments, and complimented each of the ladies with a spike nail and some beads, much to their satisfaction. We were told by Tupia, who had always expressed much fear of the men of Bolabola, that they had made a conquest of this island, and that, if we remained here, they would certainly come down to-morrow and fight us. We determined, therefore, to go on shore without delay, while the day was our own.
I landed, in company with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and the other gentlemen, Tupia,being also of the party. He introduced us, by repeating the ceremonies which he had performed at Huaheine; after which I hoisted an English Jack, and took possession of this and the three neighbouring islands, Huaheine, Otaha, and Bolabola, which were all in sight, in the name of his Britannic Majesty. After this, we took a walk to a. great Morai, called Tapodeboxtea. We founJ it very different from those of Otaheite, for it consisted only of four walls, about eight feet high, of coral stones, some of which were of an immense size, inclosing an area of about five and twenty yards square, which was filled up with smaller stones; upon the top of it many planks were set up on end, which were
carved in their whole length; at a little distance we '7*9found an altar, or Ewhaita, upon which lay the last, j."I" j oblation or sacrifice, a hog ot' about eighty pounds weight, which had been offered whole, and very nicely roasted. Here were also tour or five Ewharre-noJ-'.atua, or houses of God, to which carriage poles were fitted, like that which we had seen at Huaheine. One of these Mr. Banks examined, by putting his hand into it, and found a parcel about five feet long and one thick, wrapped up in mats; he broke a way through several of these mats with his fingers, but at length came to one which was made of the fibres of lhe cocoanut, so firmly plaited together that he found it impossible to tear it, and therefore was forced ro dtsist: especially as he perceived, that what he had done already gave great offence to our new friends. From hence we went to a long house, not far distant, where, among rolls of cloth and several other things, we saw the model of a canoe, about three feet long, to which were tied eight human! jaw-bones: we had already learned that these, like scalps among the Indians of North America, were trophies of war. Tupia affirmed, that they were the jaw-bones of the natives of this island; if so, they might have been hung up, with the model of a canoe, as a symbol of invasion, by the warriors of Bolabola, as a memorial of their conquest.
Night now came on apace, but Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander continued their walk along the shore, and at a little distance saw another Ewharre-no-Eatua, and a tree of the fig kind, the same as that which Mr. Green had seen at Oraheite, in great perfection; the trunk, or rather congeries of the roots of which was forty-two paces in circumference.
Onthe2ist, having dispatched the master in the Friday »i. long-boat, to examine the coast of the south part of the ifland, and one of the mates in the yawl, to sound the harbour where the (hip lay, I went myself in the pinnace, to survey that part of the island which lies to the north. Mr. Banks and the gentlemen were again on shore, trading with the natives, and examining the products and curiosities of the country; they saw nothing, however, worthy notice, but some more jawbones.
»?69- boners, of which they made no doubt but that the acv___"Z^, count they had heard was true.
Saturd. n. On the 22d and 23d, having strong gales and hazy Sunday 23 weather, I did not think it safe to put to sea; but on Monday 24. the 2^f though the wind was still variable, I got under fail, and plied to the northward within the reef, with a view to go out at a wider opening than that by which I had entered: in doing this, however, I was unexpectedly in the most imminent danger of striking on the rock; the master, whom I had ordered to keep continually sounding in the chains, suddenly called out, "two fathom." This aiarmed me; for though I knew the ship drew at least fourteen feet, and that therefore it was impossible such a shoal should be under her keel, yet the master was either mistaken, or she went along the edge of a coral rock, many of which, in the neighbourhood of these islands, are as steep as a wall.
This harbour or bay is called by the natives Oopoa, and, taken in its greatest extent, it is capable of holding any number of shipping. It extends almost the whole length of the east side of the island, and is defended from the sea by the reef of coral rocks. The southermost opening of this reef or channel into the harbour, by which we entered, is little more than a cable's length wide; it lies off the eastermost point of the island, and may be known by another small woodyisland, which lies a little to the south-east of it, called by the people here Oatara. Between three and four miles north-west from this island lie two other islets, in the fame direction as the reef, of which they are a part, called Opururu and Tamou; between these lies the other channel into the harbour, through which I went out, and which is a full quarter of a mile wide. Still farther to the north-west are some other small islands, near which, I am told, there is another small channel into the harbour; but this 1 knew only by report.
The principal refreshments that are to be procured at this part of the island are plantains, cocoa-nuts, yams, hogs, and fowls; the hogs and fowls, however, are scarce, and the country, where we saw it, is neither so populous nor so rich in produce as Otaheite,
or even Huaheine. Wood and water may also be pro- '7*9cured here, but the water cannot conveniently be^" __j got at.
We were now again at sea, without having received any interruption from the hostile inhabitants of Bolabola, whom, notwithstanding the fears of Tupia, we intended to visit. At four o'clock in the afternoon of Tuesd. it,. the 25th, we were within a league of Otaha, which bore N. 77 W. To the northward of the south end of that island, on the east side of it, and something more than a mile from the shore, lie two small islands, called ToAhoutu andWHENNUMA, between which, Toahoutu. Tupia fays, there is a channel into a very good har- whenbour, which lies within the reef, and appearances con- a,afirmed his report.
As I discovered a broad channel between Otaha and Bolabola, I determined rather to go through it, than run to the northward of all; but the wind being right a-head, I got no ground.
Between five and six in the evening of the 26th, asweJn. z6. I was standing to the northward, I discovered a small low island lying N. by W. or N. N. W. distant four or five leagues from Bolahola. We were told by Tupia, that the name of this island is Tubai, that it produces Tubai. nothing but cocoa-nuts, and is inhabited only by three families; though it is visited by the inhabitants of the nighbouring islands, who resort thither to catch fish, with which the coast abounds.
On the 27th, about noon, the Peak of Bolabola borerhurfd. 17. N. 25 W. and the north end of Otaha N. 80 W. distant three leagues. The wind continued contrary all this day, and the night following. On the 28th, at Friday 28. six in the morning, we were near the entrance of the harbour on the east side of Otaha, which has beenotaha. just mentioned; and finding that it might be examined wiihout losing time, I sent away the master in the long boat, with orders to sound it; and, if the wind did not shift in our favour, to land upon the island, and traffic with the natives for such refreshments as were to be had. In this boat went Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, who landed upon the island, and before night purchased three hogs, twenty-one fowls, and as many yams and plantains as the boat would hold. Plantains
Vol. II. H we
17S9. We thought a more useful refreshment even than pork, ,for they were boiled, and served to the skip's company as bread; and were now the more acceptable, as our bread was so full of vermin, that notwithstanding all possible care, weTiad sometimes twenty of them in our mouths at a time, every one of which tasted as hot as mustard. The island- seemed to be more barren than Ulietea, but the produce was of the fame kind. The people also exactly resembled those we had seen at the other islands; they were not numerous, but they flocked about the boat wherever she went, from all quarters, bringing with them whatever they had to fell. They paid the strangers, of whom they had received an account from Tupia, the fame compliment which they used towards their own Kings, uncovering their shoulders, and wrapping their garments round their breasts; and were so solicitous to prevent its being neglected by any of their people, that a man was sent with them, who called out to every one he met, telling him what they were, and what he was to do.
In the mean time, I kept plying off and on, waking for the boat's return. At half an hour after five, not seeing any thing of her, I fired a gun, and after it was dark hoisted a light. At half an hour after eight we heard the report of a musquet, which we answered with a gun, and soon after the boat came on board. The master reported, that the harbour was safe and commodious, with good anchorage from twenty-five feet to sixteen fathom water, clear ground.
As soon as the boat was hoisted in, I made fail to the northward, and at eight o'clock in the morning of
Saturd. iS. the 29th, we were close under the Peak of Balabota, which was high, rude, and craggy. As the island was altogether inaccessible in this part, and we found it impossible to weather it, we tacked and stood off, then tacked again, and after many trips did not weather the
Sunday 30. south end of it till twelve o'clock at night. At eight o'clock the next morning we discovered an island, which bore from us N. 630 W. distant about eight leagues: at the fame time the Peak of Bolabola bore N.f E. distant
Mauiua three or four leagues. This island Tupia called MauRua, and said that it was small, wholly surrounded by a reef, and without any harbour for shipping; but