July. 1769. but collected the opinions of twenty or thirty people, which could not be done without great lofs of time. We got, however, eleven pigs, and determined to try for more the next day. Wednef. 19. The next day, therefore, we brought out fome hatchets, for which we hoped we should have had no occafion, upon an island which no European had ever vifited before. Thefe procured us three very large hogs; and as we propofed to fail in the afternoon, King Oree and feveral others came on board to take their leave. To the King I gave a small plate of pewter, on which was flamped this infcription, "His Bri"tannic Majefty's fhip, Endeavour, Lieutenant Cook "Commander, 16th July, 1769, Huaheine." I gave him alfo fome medals or counters, refembling the coin of England, ftruck in the year 1761, with fome other prefents; and he promised that with none of these, particularly the plate, he would ever part. I thought it as lafting a teftimony of our having first difcovered this ifland, as any we could leave behind; and having difmiffed our vifitors well fatisfied, and in great good humour, we set sail about half an hour after two in the afternoon. The island of Huaheine, or Huahene, is fituated in the latitude of 16° 43′ S. and longitude 150° 52′ W. from Greenwich; it is diftant from Otaheite about thirty-one leagues, in the direction of N, 58 W. and is about feven leagues in compass. Its furface is hilly and uneven, and it has a fafe and commodious harbour, The harbour, which is called by the natives, OWALLE, or OWHARRE, lies on the weft fide, under the northermost high land; and within the north end of the reef, which lies along that fide of the island, there are two inlets, or openings, by which it may be entered through the reef, about a mile and a half distant from each other; the fouthermoft is the wideft, and on the fouth fide of it lies a very small fandy ifland. Huaheine feems to be a month forwarder in its productions than Otaheite, as we found the cocoa-nuts. full of kernel, and fome of the new bread-fruit fit to Of the cocoa-nuts the inhabitants make a food which they call Poe, by mixing them with yams: they fcrape both fine, and having incorporated the powder, they put it into a wooden trough, with a number of eat. hot hot ftones, by which an oily kind of hafty pudding is made, that our people relished very well, efpecially when it was fried. Mr. Banks found not more than eleven or twelve new plants; but he observed fome infects, and a fpecies of fcorpion which he had not feen before. The inhabitants feem to be larger made, and more ftout, than thofe of Otaheite, Mr. Banks measured one of the men, and found him to be fix feet three inches and an half high; yet they are so lazy, that he could not persuade any of them to go up the hills with him; they faid, if they were to attempt it, the fatigue would kill them. The women were very fair, more fo than thofe of Otaheite; and in general we thought them more handfome, though none that were equal to fome individuals. Both fexes feemed to be lefs timid, and lefs curious. It has been obferved, that they made no enquiries on board the ship; and when we fired a gun, they were frighted indeed, but they did not fall down, as our friends at Otaheite conftantly did when we first came among them. For this difference, however, we can easily account upon other principles; the people at Huaheine had not feen the Dolphin, thofe at Otaheite had. In one, the report of a gun was connected with the idea of inftant destruction; to the other, there was nothing dreadful in it but the appearance and the found, as they had never experienced its power of difpenfing death. While we were on fhore, we found that Tupia had commended them beyond their merit, when he faid, that they would not fleal; for one of them was detected in the fact. But when he was feized by the hair, the reft, instead of cunning away, as the people at Otaheite would have done, gathered round, and enquired what provocation had been given; but this allo may be accounted for, without giving them credit for their fuperior courage; they had no experience of the confequence of European refentment, which the people at Otaheite had in many inflances pnrchafed with life. It muit, however, be acknowledged, to their honour, that when they understood what had happened, they fhewed ftrong figns of difapprobation, and prefcribed 1769. July. 1769 July. Ulietea Thurfd, 20 prescribed a good beating for the thief, which was immediately administered. We now made fail for the island of ULIETEA, which lies S. W. by W. diftant feven or eight leagues from Huaheine, and at half an hour after fix in the evening we were within three leagues of the fhore, on the eastern fide. We flood off and on all night, and when the day broke the next morning, we stood in for the fhore. We foon after difcovered an opening in the reef which lies before the ifland, within which, Tupia told us, there was a good harbour. I did not however, implicitly take hi word, but fent the master out in the pinnace to examine it: he foon made the fignal for the fhip to follow; we accordingly stood in, and anchored in two and twenty fathom, with foft ground. The natives foon came off to us in two canoes, each of which brought a woman and a pig. The woman, we fuppofed, was a mark of confidence, and the pig was a prefent; we received both with proper acknowledgments, and complimented each of the ladies with a fpike nail and fome beads, much to their fatisfaction. We were told by Tupia, who had always expreffed much fear of the men of Bolabola, that they had made a conqueft of this ifland, and that, if we remained here, they would certainly come down to-morrow and fight us. We determined, therefore, to go on fhore without delay, while the day was our own. I landed, in company with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and the other gentlemen, Tupia, being also of the party. He introduced us, by repeating the ceremonies which he had performed at Huaheine; after which I hoifted an English Jack, and took poffeffion of this and the three neighbouring iflands, Huaheine, Otaha, and Bolabola, which were all in fight, in the name of his Britannic Majefty. After this, we took a walk to a great Morai, called TAPODEBOATEA. We found it very different from thofe of Otaheite, for it confifted only of four walls, about eight feet high, of coral ftones, fome of which were of an immenfe fize, inclofing an area of about five and twenty yards fquare, which was filled up with smaller ftones; upon the top of it many planks were fet up on end, which were carved in their whole length; at a little distance we found an altar, or Ewhaita, upon which lay the last, oblation or facrifice, a hog of about eighty pounds weight, which had been offered whole, and very nicely roafted. Here were alfo four or five Ewharre-noEatua, or houses of God, to which carriage poles were fitted, like that which we had feen at Huaheine. One of these Mr. Banks examined, by putting his hand into it, and found a parcel about five feet long and one thick, wrapped up in mats; he broke a way through feveral of thefe mats with his fingers, but at length. came to one which was made of the fibres of the cocoanut, fo firmly plaited together that he found it impotlible to tear it, and therefore was forced to defift: especially as he perceived, that what he had done already gave great offence to our new friends. From hence we went to a long houfe, not far diftant, where, among rolls of cloth and several other things, we faw the model of a canoe, about three feet long, to which were tied eight human! jaw-bones: we had already learned that these, like scalps among the Indians of North America, were trophies of war. Tupia affirmed, that they were the jaw-bones of the natives of this ifland; if so, they might have been hung up, with the model of a canoe, as a fymbol of invafion, by the warriors of Bolabola, as a memorial of their conquest. Night now came on apace, but Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander continued their walk along the fhore, and at a little distance faw another Ewharre-no-Eatua, and a tree of the fig kind, the fame as that which Mr. Green had seen at Otaheite, in great perfection; the trunk, or rather congeries of the roots of which was forty-two paces in circumference. 1769. July. On the 21ft, having difpatched the mafter in the Friday 21. long-boat, to examine the coaft of the south part of the island, and one of the mates in the yawl, to found the harbour where the fhip lay, I went myfelf in the pinnace, to survey that part of the island which lies to the north. Mr. Banks and the gentlemen were again on fhore, trading with the natives, and examining the products and curiofities of the country; they faw nothing, however, worthy notice, but fome more jaw bones, 1769 bones, of which they made no doubt but that the acJuly. count they had heard was true. Saturd. 22. On the 22d and 23d, having ftrong gales and hazy Sunday 23 weather, I did not think it fafe to put to fea; but on Monday 24 the 24th, though the wind was still variable, I got un der fail, and plied to the northward within the reef, with a view to go out at a wider opening than that by which I had entered in doing this, however, I was unexpectedly in the most imminent danger of ftriking on the rock; the mafter, whom I had ordered to keep continually founding in the chains, suddenly called out, two fathom." This alarmed me; for though I knew the ship drew at least fourteen feet, and that therefore it was impoffible such a shoal should be under her keel, yet the mafter was either mistaken, or she went along the edge of a coral rock, many of which, in the neighbourhood of these iflands, are as steep as a wall. This harbour or bay is called by the natives OOPOA, and, taken in its greatest extent, it is capable of holding any number of fhipping. It extends almost the whole length of the eaft fide of the island, and is defended from the fea by the reef of coral rocks. The fouthermost opening of this reef or channel into the harbour, by which we entered, is little more than a cable's length wide; it lies off the eastermost point of the island, and may be known by another fmall woody ifland, which lies a little to the fouth-east of it, called by the people here OATARA. Between three and four miles north-west from this island lie two other iflets, in the fame direction as the reef, of which they are a part, called OPURURU and TAMOU; between these lies the other channel into the harbour, through which I went out, and which is a full quarter of a mile wide. Still farther to the north-west are fome other fmall islands, near which, I am told, there is another fmall channel into the harbour; but this I knew only by report. The principal refreshments that are to be procured at this part of the island are plantains, cocoa-nuts, yams. hogs, and fowls; the hogs and fowls, however, are scarce, and the country, where we faw it, is neither fo populous nor fo rich in produce as Otaheite, or |