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1770. January.

Monday 15.

main, bore S. S. E. diftant five leagues. We were now in a bay, the bottom of which bearing fouth we could not fee, though it was clear in that quarter. Our latitude by obfervation was 40° 27′ S. longitude 184° 39 W. At eight in the evening, we were within two leagues of the land which we had difcovered in the morning, having run ten leagues fince noon: the land which then bore S. 63 W. now bore N. 59 W. at the distance of feven or eight leagues, and had the appearance of an island. Between this land and CAPE EGMONT lies the bay, the weft fide of which was our fituation at this time, and the land here is of a confiderable height, and diverfified by hill and valley.

CHAP. VI.

Paffage

Tranfactions in Queen Charlotte's Sound.
through the Streight which divides the two Islands,
and back to Cape Turnagain. Horrid Cuftom of the
Inhabitants. Remarkable Melody of Birds. A Vifit
to a Hippah, and many other Particulars.

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HE fhore at this place feemed to form feveral bays, into one of which I propofed to carry the ship, which was very foul, in order to careen her, and at the fame time repair fome defects, and recruit our wood and water.

With this view, I kept plying on and off all night, having from eighty to fixty-three fathoms. At daybreak, the next morning, I ftood for an inlet which runs in S. W. and at eight I got within the entrance, which may be known by a reef of rocks, ftretching from the north-weft point, and fome,rocky iflands which lie off the fouth-eaft point. At nine o'clock, there being little wind, and what there was being variable, we were carried by the tide or current within two cables length of the north-west fhore, where we had fifty-four fathoms water, but by the help of our boats we got clear. Juft at this time we faw a fea-lion rife twice near the fhore, the head of which exactly refembled that of the male, which has been defcribed in the Account of Lord Anfon's Voyage. We also saw fome of the natives in a canoe crois the bay, and a

village

village fituated upon the point of an island which lies feven or eight miles within the entrance. At noon, we were the length of this ifland, but there being little wind, the boats were ordered a-head to row. About one o'clock, we hauled clofe round the fouth-west end of the island; and the inhabitants of the village which was built upon it, were immediately up in arms. About two, we anchored in a very fafe and convenient cove, on the north-west fide of the bay, and facing the fouth-weft end of the ifland, in eleven fathoms water, with foft ground, and moored with the ftream anchor.

We were about four long cannon fhot distant from the village or Hippah, from which four canoes were immediately dispatched, as we imagined, to reconnoitre, and if they fhould find themselves able, to take us. The men were all well armed, and dressed nearly as they are reprefented in the figure published by Tafman; two corners of the cloth which they wrapped round the body were paffed over the shoulders from behind, and being brought down to the upper edge of it before, were made faft to it just under the breast; but few, or none, had feathers in their hair. They rowed round the fhip feveral times, with their ufual tokens of menace and defiance, and at last began the affault by throwing fome ftones. Tupia expoftulated with them, but apparently to very little purpofe; and we began to fear that they would oblige us to fire at them, when a very old man in one of the boats expreffed a defire of coming on board. We gladly encouraged him in his defign, a rope was thrown into his canoe, and fhe was immediately along-fide of the fhip: the old man rofe up, and prepared to come up the fhip's fide, upon which all the reft expoftulated with great vehemence against the attempt, and at last laid hold of him, and held him back: he adhered however to his purpose, with a calm but fleady perfeverance, and having at length difengaged himself, he came on board. We received him with all poffible expreffions of friendship and kindnefs, and after fome time difmiffed him, with many prefents to his companions. As foon as he was returned on board his canoe, the people in all the reft began to dance, but

whether

1770.

January.

1770.

January.

Tuesday 16,

whether as a token of enmity or friendship, we could not certainly determine, for we had feen them dance in a difpofition both for peace and war. In a fhort time, however, they retired to their fort, and foon after I went on fhore, with most of the gentlemen, at the bottom of the cove, a-breaft of the fhip.

We found a fine ftream of excellent water, and wood in the greatest plenty, for the land here was one forest, of vast extent. As we brought the feine with us, we hauled it once or twice, and with fuch fuccefs that we caught near three hundred weight of fish of different forts, which was equally distributed among the hip's company.

At day-break, while we were bufy in careening the fhip, three canoes came off to us, having on board above an hundred men, befides feveral of their women, which we were pleased to fee, as in general it is a fign of peace; but they foon afterwards became very troublesome, and gave us reafon to apprehend fome mifchief from them to the people that were in our boats along-fide the fhip. While we were in this fituation the long-boat was fent afhore with fome water cafks, and fome of the canoes attempting to follow her, we found it neceffary to intimidate them by firing fome fmall fhot; we were at fuch a distance that it was impoffible to hurt them, yet our reproof had its effect, and they defifted from the purfuit. They had fome fish in their canoes which they now offered to fell, and which, though it ftunk, we confented to buy for this purpose a man in a fmall boat was fent among them, and they traded for fome time very fairly. At length however, one of them watching his opportunity, fnatched at fome paper which our marketman held in his hand, and miffing it, immediately put himself in a pofture of defence, flourishing his patoopatoo, and making fhow as if he was about to ftrike; fame fmall fhot were then fired at him from the fhip, a few of which ftruck him upon the knee: this put an end to our trade, but the Indians ftill continued near the ship, rowing round her many times, and converfing with Tupia, chiefly concerning the traditions they had among them with refpect to the antiquities of their country. To this fubject they were led by the inquiries

1770.

inquiries which Tupia had been directed to make, whether they had ever feen fuch a veffel as ours, or had January. heard that any fuch had been upon their coaft? These inquiries were all anfwered in the negative, fo that tradition has preferved among them no memorial of Tafman; though, by an obfervation made this day, we find that we are only fifteen miles fouth of Murderer's bay, our latitude being 41° 5' 32", and Murderer's bay, according to his account, being 40° 50′′.

The women in thefe canoes, and fome of the men, had a head drefs which we had not feen before. It confifted of a bunch of black feathers, made up in a round form, and tied upon the top of the head, which is entirely covered, and made it twice as high, to appearance, as it was in reality.

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After dinner I went in the pinnace with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Tupia, and fome others, into another cove, about two miles diftant from that in which the fhip lay in our way we faw fomething floating upon the water, which we took for a dead feal, but upon rowing up to it, found it to be the body of a woman, which to all appearance had been dead fome days. We proceeded to our cove, where we went on fhore, and found a fmall family of Indians, who appeared to be greatly terrified at our approach, and all ran away except one. A conversation between this perfon and Tupia foon brought back the reft, except an old man and a child, who still kept aloof, but flood peeping at us from the woods. Of thefe people, our curiofity naturally led us to enquire after the body of the woman which we had feen floating upon the water: and they acquainted us, by Tupia, that fhe was a relation, who had died a natural death; and that, according to their cuftom, they had tied a ftone to the body, and thrown it into the sea, which stone, they fuppofed, had by fome accident been difengaged.

This family, when we came on fhore, was employed in dreffing fome provifions: the body of a dog was at this time buried in their oven, and many provi fion baskets ftood near it. Having caft our eyes carelefsly into one of thefe, as we paffed it, we faw two bones pretty nearly picked, which did not feem to be

the

770. the bones of a dog, and which, upon a nearer examiJanuary, nation, we difcovered to be thofe of a human body. At this fight we were ftruck with horror, though it was only a confirmation of what we had heard many times fince we arrived upon this coaft. As we could have no doubt but the bones were human, neither could we have any doubt but that the flesh which covered them had been eaten. They were found in a provifion-bafket; the flesh that remained appeared manifeftly to have been dreffed by fire, and in the griftles at the end, were the marks of the teeth which had gnawed them: to put an end however to conjecture, founded upon circumftances and appearances, we directed Tupia to afk what bones they were; and the Indians, without the leaft hefitation, anfwered, the bones of a man. They were then asked what was become of the flesh? and they replied that they had eaten it. But, faid Tupia, why did you not eat the body of the woman which we faw floating upon the water? The woman, faid they, died of difeafe; befides, fhe was our relation, and we eat only the bodies of our enemies, who are killed in battle. Upon enquiry who the man was whose bones we had found, they told us, that about five days before, a boat belonging to their enemies came into the bay, with many perfons on board, and that this man was one of feven whom they had killed. Tho' ftronger evidence of this horrid practice prevailing among the inhabitants of this coaft will fcarcely be required, we have ftill ftronger to give. One of us asked if they had any human bones with the flesh remaining upon them, and upon their anfwering us that all had been eaten, we affected to difbelieve that the bones were human, and faid that they were the bones of a dog; upon which one of the Indians with fome eagerness took hold of his own fore-arm, and thrusting it towards us, faid, that the bone which Mr. Banks held in his hand had belonged to that part of the human body; at the fame time, to convince us that the flesh had been eaten, he took hold of his own arm with his teeth, and made thew of eating: he alfo bit and gnawed the bone which Mr. Banks had taken, drawing it through his mouth, and fhewing, by figns, that it had afforded a delicious repaft: the bone was then returned to Mr. Banks, and he brought

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