1769. October. Friday 13. Having got round Portland, we hauled in for the land N. W. having a gentle breeze at N. E. which about five o'clock died away, and obliged us to anchor. We had one and twenty fathom, with a fine fandy bottom: the fouth point of Portland bore S. E. S. diftant about two leagues; and a low point on the main bore N. E. In the fame direction with this low point, there runs a deep bay, behind the land of which Cape Table is the extremity, fo as to make this land a peninfula, leaving only a low narrow neck between that and the main. Of this peninfula, which the natives call TERAKAKO, Cape Table is the north point, and Portland the south. ; While we lay at anchor, two more canoes came off to us, one armed, and the other a fmall fishing-boat, with only four men in her. They came fo near that they entered into converfation with Tupia. They anfwered all the questions that he asked them with great civility, but could not be perfuaded to come on board they came near enough, however, to receive feveral presents that were thrown to them from the fhip, with which they feemed much pleased, and went away. During the night many fires were kept on fhore, probably to fhew us that the inhabitants were too much upon their guard to be furprized. This About five o'clock in the morning of the 13th, a breeze fpringing up northerly, we weighed, and steered in for the land. The fhore here forms a large bay, of which Portland is the north-east point, and the bay that runs behind Cape Table an arm. arm I had a great inclination to examine, because there appeared to be fafe anchorage in it; but not being fure of that, and the wind being right an end, I was unwilling to fpare the time. Four and twenty fathom was the greateft depth with Portland, but the ground was every where clear. The land near the shore is of a moderate height, with white cliffs and fandy beaches; within it rifes into mountains; and, upon the whole, the furface is hilly, for the most part covered with wood, and to appearance pleasant and fertile. In the morning nine canoes came after the October. fhip, but whether with peaceable or hoftile intentions 1769. we could not tell, for we foon left them behind us. In the evening we stood in for a place that had the appearance of an opening, but found no harbour; we therefore stood out again, and were foon followed by a large canoe, with eighteen or twenty men all armed, who, though they could not reach us, fhouted defiance, and brandifhed their weapons, with many geftures of menace and infult. In the morning, we had a view of the mountains Satur. 14. inland, upon which the snow was still lying: the country near the fhore was low and unfit for culture, but in one place we perceived a patch of fomewhat yellow, which had greatly the appearance of a corn field, yet was probably nothing more than fome dead flags, which are not uncommon in fwampy places: at some distance we saw groves of trees, which appeared high and tapering, and being not above two leagues from the fouth-west cod of the great bay, in which we had been coafting for the two last days, I hoifted out the pin, nace and long-boat to fearch for fresh water; but just as they were about to put off, we faw feveral boats full of people coming from the fhore, and therefore I did not think it safe for them to leave the fhip. About ten o'clock, five of these boats having drawn together, as if to hold a confultation, made towards the ship, having on board between eighty and ninety men, and four more followed at fome distance, as if to fuftain the attack. When the first five came within about a hundred yards of the fhip, they began to fing their war fong, and, brandishing their pikes, prepared for an engagement. We had now no time to lofe, for if we could not prevent the attack, we fhould come under the unhappy neceffity of ufing our fire arms against them, which we were very defirous to avoid. Tupia was therefore ordered to acquaint them, that we had weapons which, like thunder, would deftroy them in a moment; that we would immediately convince them of their power, by directing their effect fo that they fhould not be hurt; but that if they perfifted in any hostile attempts, we should be obliged to use them for our defence. A four pounder, loaded with grape shot, 1769. October. was then discharged wide of them, which produced the defired effect; the report, the flash, and above all, the fhot, which spread very far in the water, fo intimidated them, that they began to paddle away with all their might: Tupia, however, calling after them, and affuring them that if they would come un-armed, they fhould be kindly received, the people in one of the boats put their arms on board of another, and came under the ship's ftern: we made them several prefents, and should certainly have prevailed upon them to come on board, if the other canoes had not come up, and again threatened us, by fhouting and brandishing their weapons at this the people who had come to the ship unarmed, expreffed great difpleasure, and foon after they all went away. In the afternoon we stood over to the fouth point of the bay, but not reaching it before it was dark, we Sunday 15. food off and on all night. At eight the next morning, being a-breaft of the point, feveral fishing boats came off to us, and fold us fome stinking fish: it was the beft they had, and we were willing to trade with them upon any terms: these people behaved very well, and should have parted good friends if it had not been for a large canoe, with two and twenty armed men on board, which came boldly up along-fide of the fhip. We foon faw that this boat had nothing for traffick, yet we gave them two or three pieces of cloth, an article which they seemed very fond of. I obferved that one man had a black skin thrown over him, somewhat refembling that of a bear, and being defirous to know what animal was its first owner, I offered him for it a piece of red baize, and he seemed greatly pleased with the bargain, immediately pulling off the fkin, and holding it up in the boat; he would not, however, part with it till he had the cloth in his poffeffion, and as there could be no transfer of property, if with equal caution I had infifted upon the fame condition, I ordered the cloth to be handed down to him, upon which, with amazing coolness, instead of fending up the skin, he began to pack up both that and the baize, which he had received as the purchase of it, in a basket, without paying the leaft regard to my demand or remonftrances, and foon after, with the fishing boats, put off off from the ship; when they were at fome distance, they drew together, and after a fhort confultation returned; the fishermen offered more fish, which, thoughgood for nothing, was purchased, and trade was again renewed. Among others who were placed over the fhip's fide to hand up what we bought, was little Tayeto, Tupia's boy; and one of the Indians, watching his opportunity, suddenly seized him, and dragged him down into the canoe; two of them held him down in the fore-part of it, and the others, with great activity, paddled her off, the rest of the canoes following as fast as they could: upon this the marines. who were under arms upon deck, were ordered to fire. The shot was directed to that part of the canoe which was farthest from the boy, and rather wide of her, being willing rather to mifs the rowers than to hurt him it happened, however, that one man dropped, upon which the others quitted their hold of the boy, who inftantly leaped into the water, and swam towards the hip; the large canoe immediately pulled round and followed him, but fome mufquets, and a great gun being fired at her, fhe defifted from the purfuit. The fhip being brought to, a boat was lowered, and the poor boy taken up unhurt, though fo terrified that for a time he seemed to be deprived of his fenfes. Some of the gentlemen who traced the canoes to fhore with their glaffes, faid, that they faw three men carried up the beach, who appeared to be either dead or wholly difabled by their wounds. : 1769. October. To the cape off which this unhappy transaction happened, I gave the name of CAPE KIDNAPPERS. It lies in latitude 39° 43', and longitude 182° 24′ W. and is rendered remarkable by two white rocks like hay ftacks, and the high white cliffs on each fide. It lies S. W. by W. diftant thirteen leagues from the ifle of Portland; and between them is the bay of which it is the fouth point, and which, in honour of Sir Edward Hawke, then first Lord of the Admiralty, I called HAWKE'S BAY. We found in it from twenty-Hawke's four to feven fathom, and good anchorage. From Bay. Cape Kidnappers the land trends S. S. W, and in this direction we made our run along the shore, keeping at K4 about 1769. October. about a league distance, with a steady breeze and clear weather. As soon as Tayeto recovered from his fright, he brought a fish to Tupia, and told him, that he intended it as an offering to his Eatua, or god, in gratitude for his escape. Tupia commended his piety, and ordered him to throw the fish into the fea, which was accordingly done. About two o'clock in the afternoon, we paffed a small but high white island, lying close to the fhore, upon which we saw many houses, boats, and people. The people were concluded to be fishers, because the island was totally barren; we saw several people alfo on fhore, Monday 16, in a small bay upon the main, within the island. At eleven, we brought to till day light, and then made fail to the fouthward, along the fhore. About feven o'clock we past a high point of land, which lies S. S.W. twelve leagues from Cape Kidnappers: from this point the land trends three fourths of a point more to the westward at ten, we faw more land open to the fouthward, and at noon, the fouthermoft land that was in fight bore S. 39 W. distant eight or ten leagues, and a high bluff head, with yellowish cliffs, bore W. diftant about two miles: the depth of water was thirtyty two fathom. Tuesday 17. In the afternoon we had a fresh breeze at west, and during the night variable light airs and calms: in the morning a gentle breeze fprung up between the N. W. and N. E. and having till now ftood to the fouthward, without feeing any probability of meeting with a harbour, and the country manifeftly altering for the worse, I thought that standing farther in that direction would be attended with no advantage, but on the contrary would be a lofs of time that might be employed with a better profpect of fuccefs in examining the coaft to the northward; about one, therefore, in the afternoon, I tacked, and stood north, with a fresh breeze at west. The high bluff head, with yellowish cliffs, which we were a-breast of at noon, I called CAPE TURNAGAIN, because here we turned back. It lies in latitude 40° 34' S. longitude 182° 55 W. diftant eighteen leagues S. S. W. W. from Cape Kidnappers. The land between them is of a very unequal height; in some places |