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well, the evening fervice;-and Paradife was opened in the wild.

Next day, 18th, we went and wandered among the rocks on the fhore, while the boat was bufy in catching oyfters, of which there is a great bed. Oysters lie upon the fand, one I think fticking to another, and cockles are found a few inches under the fand.

We then went in the boat to Sondiland, a little ifland very near. We found it a wild rock, of about ten acres; part naked, part covered with fand, out of which we picked fhells; and part clothed with a thin layer of mould, on the grass of which a few sheep are fometimes fed. We then came back and dined. I paffed part of the afternoon in reading, and in the evening one of the ladies played on her harpfichord, and Bofwell and Col danced a reel with the other.

On the 19th, we perfuaded Sir Allan to launch his boat again, and go with us to Icolmkill, where the firft great preacher of Christianity to the Scots built a church, and fettled a monaftery. In our way we stopped to examine a very uncommon cave on the coaft of Mull. We had fome difficulty to

make

make our way over the vast masses of broken rocks that lie before the entrance, and at the mouth were embarraffed with ftones, which the fea had accumulated, as at Brighthelmstone; but as we advanced, we reached a floor of foft fand, and as we left the light behind us, walked along a very spacious cavity, vaulted over head with an arch almost regular, by which a mountain was fuftained, at least a very lofty rock. From this magnificent cavern went a narrow paffage to the right hand, which we entered with a candle, and though it was obftructed with great ftones, clambered over them to a second expansion of the cave, in which there lies a great square ftone, which might ferve as a table. The air here was very warm, but not oppreffive, and the flame of the candle continued pyramidal. The cave goes onward to an unknown extent, but we were now one hundred and fixty yards under ground; we had but one candle, and had never heard of any that went further and came back; we therefore thought it prudent

to return.

Going forward in our boat, we came to a cluster of rocks, black and horrid, which Sir Allan chose for the place where he would

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eat his dinner. We climbed till we got feats. The ftores were opened, and the repaft taken.

We then entered the boat again; the night came upon us; the wind rofe; the fea fwelled; and Bofwell defired to be fet on dry ground: we however pursued our navigation, and paffed by several little islands, in the filent folemnity of faint moon-fhine, feeing little, and hearing only the wind and the water. At last we reached the island; the venerable feat of ancient fanctity; where fecret piety repofed, and where fallen greatness was repofited. The island has no house of entertainment, and we manfully made our bed in a farmer's barn. The description I hope to give you another

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LETTER LXXXV.

To Mr. THRAL É.

DEAR SIR,

Inverary, Oct. 23, 1773.

WE have gotten at laft out of the Hebrides.

Some account of our travels I have fent to my mistress; and have inclofed an ode which I wrote in the ifle of Skie.

Yefterday we landed, and tó-day came hither. We purpose to vifit Auchenleck, the feat of Mr. Bofwell's father, then to pass a day at Glasgow, and return to Edinburgh.

About ten miles of this day's journey were uncommonly amufing. We travelled with very little light, in a storm of wind and rain; we paffed about fifty-five ftreams that crossed our way, and fell into a river that, for a very great part of our road, foamed and roared befide us; all the rougher powers of nature, except thunder, were in motion, but there was no danger. I should have been forry to have miffed any of the inconveniencies, to have had

VOL. I.

N

more

more light or less rain, for their co-operation crowded the scene and filled the mind.

I beg, however, to hear from you, and from my mistress. I have feen nothing that drives you from my thoughts, but continue in rain and sunshine, by night and day, dear Sir,

Your, &c.

OD E

Inclosed in the preceding Letter.

ERMEO terras, ubi nuda rupes

PERMEO

Saxeas mifcet nebulis ruinas,

Torva ubi rident fteriles coloni

Rura labores.

Pervagor gentes hominum ferorum,
Vita ubi nullo decorata cultu

Squallet informis, tugurîque fumis

Foda latefcit.

Inter erroris falebrofa longi,

Inter ignotæ ftrepitus loquelæ,

Quot modis mecum, quid agat, requiro,

Thralia dulcis.

Seu

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