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the regulations of servitude are various in different places. The inhabi- CHAP. 1. tants of towns and villages have also their diversities: certain trades pre- Preliminary vail more in one district or town than in another; while manufactures are Observato be found in all their gradations, from the stocking loom to the foundry and the silk or cotton mill. Here, then, we have a wide and varied assortment of the characteristics of human industry and of the combinations of human interests, the contemplation of which cannot but be pregnant with utility. It is in this survey, that we claim for our labours the attention of the statist, the politician, and the man of business. On every subject connected with the human condition in the present state of society, and in the progress of that condition from barbarism and vassalage to civilization, the County of Derby will, in its past and present history, afford matter of important information and serious reflection.

DERBYSHIRE lies nearly in the centre of South-Britain, or of that portion of the United Kingdom called England and Wales. A point may be taken within it, near the intersection of the 53° north parallel with the western meridian of 1° 40′, which will be halfway between Berwick-upon-Tweed Situation. and the Isle of Wight, and equally distant from Foulness on the coast of Norfolk and the coast of Caernarvon. Like most inland counties, its boundaries are rather arbitrary than natural; yet, on the west, it is separated from Staffordshire by the river Dove and part of the Trent. On the northwest it is divided from Cheshire by the Goyte and the Etherow. On the Extent and northern border, which separates it from the West Riding of Yorkshire, some portion of the eastern head and branches of the Derwent, the Sheaf, and the Rother may be traced. Between Derbyshire and Nottinghamshire, on the east, we find the source and part of the Meden, with the whole course of the Erewash. This county extends southward, beyond the Trent, about ten miles, where it is irregularly bordered by Leicestershire, without any trace of a natural demarcation, except a portion of the course of the Mease.

The most northern point of Derbyshire is in north latitude 53° 27′ near the springs of the Etherow and the Trough, which in many maps is named the Wrongsley. The most southern extremity lies in north latitude 52° 38', at a small common bordering on the Measham Road, known by the name of No-man's-land: a spot, the possession of which has been disputed by the four neighbouring counties of Leicester, Stafford, Warwick and Derby. The farthest projection to the east is at west longitude from Greenwich 1o 13'. It is at a place called by some writers, the confluence of the Brooks,* near Worksop. Westward, the farthest projection is in west longitude 2° 31' at the junction of the Goyte and the Etherow. The direct length of the county between the above-mentioned points may be estimated at about 56 miles, and its width is rather more than 33 miles.

Boundaries.

The form of the county is extremely irregular; and it is remarkable, that, on its borders, there are no fewer than eight places, where three counties meet at one point. This is occasioned in two instances by a considerable detached part of the county being bounded on three of its sides by Form. Leicestershire, and on the fourth by Warwickshire. The other triple

* See Farey.

CHAP. 1. junctions with the neighbouring counties may be easily discovered by a reference to the map.

Form.

Surface.

Ridges.

Great

Alpine

Ridge.

The surface of Derbyshire is more unequal and irregular than any other portion of England of similar extent. The superficial measurement has been estimated at 972 square miles or 622,080 statute acres. About two thirds of the whole county consists of pasture and arable land; the remainder of mountainous regions, moors and commons.

The elevations of land at the north-western extremity of the county are considerable, and amongst them are those mountainous tracts which give the district called the High Peak, its celebrated Alpine character. The highest of the eminences in that district are Axe-edge, Kinder-scout, and Blakelow-stones. The Great-Axe-edge, which is the highest point of a line of lofty hills, extending across the boundaries of the county into Staffordshire, rises near Buxton: its height above the sea has been calculated at about 1875 feet.* Kinder-scout rises in the north-western angle of the Peak: its height has not been accurately ascertained. Pilkington says that this mountain "is generally supposed to have a greater elevation than any other eminence in the county;" but, in the opinion of Farey, Blakelowstones, situated still farther north, and in which the west-end branch of the Derwent has its source, is the highest, and Axe-edge the lowest of these three distinguished elevations.

The mountainous ridges which intersect the northern part of the county, and which descend more or less and are lost in the southern plains, where they form gentle brows and pleasingly diversify the more level aspect of the country, merit particular attention. From them, with their deep and romantic valleys and caverns, Derbyshire derives much of that peculiar interest which causes it to be spoken of and frequented by the curious and intelligent of all nations. Farey enumerates forty-one "ridges or ranges of high land, in and near to Derbyshire;" and when it is considered that these ridges are the waterheads of all the rivers and brooks that flow, either within the county or its neighbourhood, that intelligent author seems to have reason for his expectation, that that part of his labour may afford even a stranger a clear idea of the general surface and features of the county. Our limits oblige us to confine our observations to a few of the principal ridges within Derbyshire: from these others branch out in lines of declining elevation.

The forms of most islands appear to be naturally determined by the direction, extent and branches of their mountainous ridges, the principal of which may always be traced either through the central districts or with abrupt dislocations, along one or other of the longest sides. Of the latter description is the great Alpine Ridge of Britain, which rises in a stupendous line upon the western maritime counties of the island, and is particularly apparent in Cornwall, Devonshire, Wales, Cumberland and Scotland. This great ridge or chain is interrupted by the valley of the Severn and the Bristol Channel: it is again more extensively broken by the waters of the Dee, the Mersey, the Ribble, together with the other streams and low lands

* This is the statement of Mr. Farey: the height according to Whitehurst is 2100 feet above the town of Derby: both these calculations differ from the Trigonometrical Survey mentioned in page 10.

Great Alpine

Ridge.

between the Menai and the Lune. From the southernmost of the divisions CHAP. 1. in this chain, a branch of mountains, not continuous nor of equal magnitudes, may be observed stretching forth in a curvilinear direction towards the north-east. This branch includes the Mendip hills of Somersetshire, the Malvern hills, the rocks of granite, which, in all their primitive varieties, spread still more eastwardly among the forest-hills of Leicestershire, and take, through the counties of Warwick and Stafford, a northern direction, until they are again seen, elevated with sublime but sterile grandeur, in the above-mentioned mountains of the Peak. From the northern Ridge of the Great Alpine chain, extends another ridge, which, branching off from among the lofty and romantic regions that encompass the Cumberland lakes, constitutes the principal line of the Yorkshire range. This line of mountains includes the Great Whin-sile and Inglebrough of Yorkshire, together with the Blakelow-stones, the Kinder-scout, and the Axeedge of the Peak.

With this view of the manner in which the central elevations of the island are united with the southern and northern portions of our Maritime Alps, we may proceed to describe the minor ridges, which diverge in several directions from the High-Peak, and are speedily lost under the plains, and in the fruitful declivities of a richer and more recent formation, on the eastern and northern boundaries of the county.

These minor ridges are best described under the names of the rivers which receive the waters that flow from their sides or summits. The west Derwent Ridge branches off from the High-Peak at the Great Axe-edge. It contains the sources of the brooks and other streams that fall into the western bank of the Derwent. This ridge might, indeed, be denominated the eastern ridge of the Dove. It separates the upper valleys of these rivers and their tributary streams; but, as it descends southward, and approaches the wide bed of the Trent, it becomes divided near the village of Brailsford. One range of diminished, but beautiful hills, spread eastward, and after encompassing the town of Derby with a variety of picturesque elevations, continues to embank the Derwent until the junction of that river with the Trent. The western range is lost as it approaches the streams and meadows between Egginton and Burton, where

"Trent no longer mocks

With cold repulse, but courts with ardent love

The bright espousals of his own sweet murmuring Dove."

Edwards's Tour of the Dove.

The east Derwent Ridge, from the sides of which arise the auxiliary rivulets that flow into the eastern bank of the Derwent, branches out from the northernmost extremity of the Peak. There the Blakelow-stone mountain joins the Yorkshire line by a chain of grit-stone rocks, called the Grinah, the Barrow, and the Dean-head-stones. From the east side of these flows the Trough, or Wrongsley river; and on the west the Etherow has its source. The line of elevations on the east of the Derwent commences at Dean-head-stones, and may be traced through part of Yorkshire and the whole of Derbyshire, until it is lost amongst the meadows of the Trent between Breaston and Sawley. One projection of this ridge juts eastward

Minor Ridges.

Minor
Ridges.

CHAP. 1. as far as Sutton Hill in Nottinghamshire; and the valleys of the Erewash and the Nutbrook, have their western boundaries along that portion which stretches back into this county from Sutton towards Draycot. This important line of elevated land contains, along a course, varied in direction, and about seventy miles in extent, the sources of the Don, the Idle, and the Rother; while numerous branches diverge from it to the south and the south-west, and are drained by rivulets tributary to the Derwent.

From the British Alpine chain, already mentioned, near the northern or greater Axe-edge, other ridges branch out of less extent, but of considerable elevation, which bound the valleys of the Etherow, the Goyte, and other streams. The romantic river Wye has for the eastern boundary of the valley, or rather deep ravine, through which it flows, a branch ridge from the Alpine chain, commencing at Rushop-edge, and stretching out in abrupt rocky projections to the junction of the Wye and the Derwent at Rowsley; and for the southern and western limit of its vale, there is a bold branch of the west-Derwent ridge, which proceeds past Chelmerton and Over-Haddon. Another ridge, branching out of the west-Derwent ridge at Minning-Low, and crossing Stanton Moor to Great Rowsley, contains the springs of the Bradford, the Lathkil, and of other streams connected with the Wye.

An irregular branch of the Main or Alpine chain, enters Derbyshire from the south-west. This forms the southern heights of the valley of the Trent; and, separating into ridges, embanks the Mease, and contains the sources of numerous streamlets which fall into that river and the Trent.

Upon these ridges or tracts of high-land, Mr. Farey, the intelligent surveyor of the county for the Board of Agriculture, distinguishes no fewer than seven hundred points or particular mountainous elevations, noting down the strata on their sides and summits, and assigning to each the appellation by which it is known in its vicinity. His list, being alphabetical, cannot, without the aid of his map, afford the reader a sufficiently clear idea of the position of these eminences, along the tract or ridge to which they respectively appertain. We have altered his arrangement; and, selecting those which constitute the principal ridges in Derbyshire alone, we have enumerated them in order, commencing each list at the point where a smaller ridge branches from one of greater extent.

NAMES of the several MOUNTAINS, HILLS, and ELEVATED POINTS, on the principal RIDGES or TRACTS of HIGH-LAND in DERBYSHIRE, with the strata on their summits or sides.

N. B.-G. denotes Gritstone-rock; L. Limestone; T. Toadstone; gr. gravel; cz. gr. chertz gravel; qz. gr. quartz gravel; sh. shale; sh. G. shale grit; C. coal; C. sh. coal shale; R. M. red marl; P. peat; cl. clay; Gy. gypsum. The figures point out the order of the Limestone and Toadstone formations.

[blocks in formation]
[blocks in formation]

North Axe-edge, sh. and sh. G. Harper Hill, Buxton, 4 L.

Middle Axe-edge, G.
South Axe-edge, G.

EAST DERWENT RIDGE.

Commencing at Deanhead-stones
in the Great Alpine Chain.
Cut-Gate, P. upon G.
Alise-head, Ashover, G.
Hell-field Moor, G.

Lost-lad, Derwent Chap. G.
Dove-stone Tor, G.
Crow-chine, Bamford, G.
Derwent Edge, G.
Bamford Edge, G.

Stanage Hill, Hathersage, G.
Stanage Pole, Fulward, G.
Here, this ridge projects into
Yorkshire.

Overstones, Hathersage, G.
Higger Tor, a hummock, G.
Scraper Low, sh. and sh. G.
Old Booth Edge, G.

Fox Low, 4 L.

Staden Hill, 3 T.
High Cliff, Cowdale, 4 L.
Hill Head, Hartington, 4 L.
High-Low, 4 L.
Croom Hill, 4 L.
Park House Hill, 4 L.
Brierly Hill, 4 L.
Dow Low, 4 L.
Alders Cliff, 4 L.
High Wheeldon, 4 L.
Cronkstone Hill, 3 L.
Hurdlow Hill, 4 L.
Great Low, 4 L.
Overstreet Hill, 3 L.
Hurdlow House Hill, 2 L.
Wagon Lows, 4 L.
High Cross, 4 L.
Cliff Hill, 4 L.
Mossey Low, 4 L.
Cardel Low, 4 L.
Coatsfield Low, 3 L.
Benty-Grange Hill, 2 L.

One Ash clump, Monyash, 1 L.

Famous Peak Millstone Quarry.Lean Low, Heathcote, 4 L.

Ox-stones, Hathersage, G.

Hathersage Ridge, G.

Shepherds' Moss House, G.
Gorsey Bank, Barlow, G.
Grange Top, G.

Bole Hill, G.

Pudding Pie Hill, G.

Bunker's Hill, Chatsworth Old
Park, G.

Castern Low, 4 L.

Hen-Low, Heathcote, 4 L.
Bullock-round,

4 L.

Hartington,

Pine Low, 4 L.
Wolfscote Hill, 4 L.

by

Cross Low Bank, Alsop, 4 L.
Mote Low Arbor, 4 L.
Nabs Hill, 4 L.
Thorpe-Cloud, Thorpe, 4 L.
Arbor-Low, Middleton,
Yolgrave, cz. gr. on 2 L.
This eminence is nearly two miles
north of Newhaven: it is very
high, with a Druidical circle
of large stones on it.
Chester-Callenge Low, Yolgrave, 1 L.
End Low, 1 L.
Gratton Low, 1 L.
Hillock-Low, or Elklow, near
Newhaven, 4 L.

Harwood Hill, Beeley, G.
Holly Moor Top, G.
Blakelow, Lit. Rowsley, G.
Roches Rock, Ashover, G.
Spite-winter Hill, G.
Stanage, Wingerworth, G.
Boythorp Hill, G.
Wingerworth Park,
field, G.

Fabrick Hill, G.

Deer-leap Hill, G.

Birkin Lane, Ashover, C. sh.

Bole Hill, Wingerworth.

Sheldon village, G.

Harstoff Common, G.
Cock Top, Tibshelf, G.
Over Moor, C. sh.

Here this Ridge projects into
Nottinghamshire, to Sutton

Hill.

Normanton Common, C. sh.
Cotes Park, Alfreton, C. sh.
Somercotes Green, C. sh.
Swanwick Wind-Mill Hill,
C. sh.

Castle Hill, Pentrich, G.
Greenwich, Ripley, C. sh.
Codnor Park, G.

Breech Hill, Denby, G.
Roby Field, G.

Shipley Park, G.

Bredsall Moor, G. [Salmon
coloured.]
Chaddesden Moor, Cl.
Hag Wind-Mill, Dale Abbey,
G. [Salmon coloured.]
Dum's Hill, q. gr.
Spondon Hill, R. M.
Clouds Hill, Sandiacre, R. M.
Risley Park, R. M.
Hopwell Hall, Ockbrook, R. M.

Gotam Hill, Bradborne, 4 L.
Minning Low, near Pike Hall,

4 L.

[blocks in formation]

Snaper Hill, Brailsford, R. M.
Priest wood Hill, near Meynel,

Langley and Kedleston, R.
M.

Rough Heanor Hill, R. M.
Radbourn Hall, R. M.
Mickleover town, R. M.
Burnaston Hill, Etwall, R. M.
Coneygree, Willington, gr. on
R.M.

Littleover town, gr. on R. M.
Stenson Hill, gr. on R. M.
Swarkstone Lows, gr. on R. M.
Peter's Hill, Derby, gr. on R.

M.

Normanton, near Derby, R. M.
Chellaston Hill, Cl. on Gy. and
R. M.

Wyman's Hill, Aston, R. M.
and Gy.

Weston Cliff, and Free Stone
Quarries, R. M.

Ballington Hill, Ambaston, R.
M. and Gy.

RIDGES OF THE WYE.

Eastern Ridge.

This Ridge branches from the
Great Alpine Chain at Rushop
Edge.

Lord's seat, Castleton, sk. and

sh. gr.
Mam-Tor, sh.

This eminence is high, and is
remarkable for its falls or
slips.

Lose Hill, Castleton, sh. and
sh. gr.

Windy Knowl, Castleton, 4 L.
Tra-Cliff, south-east of Mam-
Tor, 4 L.

On the Winnet's Road: it con

tains Fluor mines.
Castle-Hill, Castleton, 4 L.
Little Elden Hill, 4 L.
Great Elden Hill, 4 L.
Hentley Hill, 3 L.
Edingtree Hill, Bradwell, 3 L.
Eccles Hill, Hope, sh. and sh.
G.

Long Cliff, Castleton, 4 L.
Ox Low Peak Forest, 4 L.
Copt Round, 3 L.
Nel's Low, 3 L.

Damcliffe, Peak Forest, 4 L.
Whetstone Bank, 3 L.
Summercross Hill, Tideswell,
2 L.

Tenter Bank, 2 L.

Bathem-Edge, Tideswell Moor,

[blocks in formation]

CHAP. 1.

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