pire, that embraced every climate, from the Equator to the Pole.*

The Roman Territories being depopulated by oppression and celibacy, the air of the mountains is preferred to that of the Plains, rendered unwholesome and almost pestiferous, by the noxious vapours arising from stagnant waters, and volcanic soils. The latter were more or less pernicious in ancient times, as we learn from Livy: but their virulence was then corrected by the salutary process of vegetation, and the balmy breath of flocks and herds.

Toward ten o'clock the clouds broke

away,

and permitted us to behold the

Dome

Nulla quæ tam tota sit culta. Arboribus consita Italia est, ut tota pomarium videatur. Varro de Re Rustica, Lib. I. c. 2.

Dome of St. Peters, towering in the air,

as we crossed, by the Flaminian Way, the deserted plains of the Campania, dotted here and there with decayed trees, and ruined towers, but not of Roman Antiquity-monuments of those barbarous Ages of which these fertile lands have never recovered the devastation.

The approach of Rome was indicated by no signs of opulence or animation; though the road was lined for some miles with crumbling masses of Ancient magnificence, in the half obliterated shape of Tombs, and Temples.

But on crossing the Tyber-a muddy stream, half as wide as the Schuylkill, at Philadelphia, by the Ponte Molle, or Pons Milvius of Antiquity, and entering

the

the eternal city, by the Porta del Popolo, erected by one of the Medicean Popes, from a design of Michael Angelo, we were instantly satisfied with an exhibition of Ancient and Modern grandeur no where united but at Rome.

An oblong Square, in the middle of which rises an Egyptian Obelisk, covered with hieroglyphics, terminates with two Churches, of Grecian Architecture, between which opens the Corso, a fine street of a mile in length, leading directly to the ascent of the Capitol, while two others, equally straight, diverge, to the right and left, toward St. Peter's, and St. John de Lateran. *

There are several inscriptions upon this Obelisk—that of Augustus reads "Imperator Augustus Cæsar, Ægypto in potestatem, Populi Romani redactâ. Soli donum dedit."

Here, while we were shewing our passports, a Valet de Place introduced himself, without ceremony, as having had the honour to serve several Mi Lor's, to whom he was proud to have given the utmost satisfaction; and, without asking permission, he jumped up along side of the Coachman, and went with us to the Dogana, which has been fitted up within the Colonnade of an Ancient Temple.

By the assistance of our Cicerone, for he serves occasionally in both characters, we have procured very agreeable Lodgings, at the house of a Statuary, directly opposite the Church of San Carlo (an elegant edifice near the middle of the Corso) the principal inconveniencies of which we soon found to be universal at Rome: to wit, an open door-way, besieg

ed

ed by Idlers; and a public stair-case, stinking with filth.

As soon as we had dined, I set out to find St. Peter's; but, losing myself among crooked streets, narrow, and badly paved, I had recourse to my usual method in a strange place, of walking far enough out of town to see the situation of the principal objects—when I found myself diametrically wrong, and was obliged to cross the whole town to come at the Bridge and Castle of St. Angelo, from whence a narrow passage leads directly to the Papal Basilica.

The Cathedral of St. Peter-But St. Peter's Church must not be crowded into the end of a letter.-I will begin upon a fresh sheet to-morrow.