Abbildungen der Seite
PDF
EPUB

nomena fhould appear the effect of magic to the people of the country: I have never been able myfelf, nor have I ever heard any other perfon give a fatisfactory account of them. Some lucky accident, how ever, may perhaps difcover the caufe, at the moment of its operation.

As the Glaciers advance by all the openings of the fuperior vallies, and as it is by thefe openings that the water flues which proceeds from the ice accumulated there, it is from the bottom of the Glaciers themfelves that the water runs; and from thefe fources the principal rivers in Europe are formed.

What ftrikes one most on his approach to thefe objects is their colour. Water is naturally of the fame colour with air; this we perceive in deep and pure rivers, fuch as the Rhone at Geneva, which is of the colour of the finest fapphire. The ice of the Alps retains this colour; and it is most striking when the light has run along it obliquely for fome way before it reaches the eye. This chiefly happens in deep cliffs, the infide of which receives no light but what has croffed the ice. The edges of these are of a very light blue colour; but from this foft tinge the eye is conducted by fhades of blue, more and more obfcure, till it is loft in total darkness. One of thefe cliffs prefenting itself to us as we iflued from a wood through which we had pafed to reach the Glacier, ftruck us exceedingly; and now we found ourfelves arrived at the principal object of our journey. We defcended on the ice, after having clambered over the heap of rocks that it pushes before it. My companion, Mifs S, was then convinced, that what he had taken for fnow, on a diftant view of the Alps, was hard tranfparent ice, and much purer than that which we do not fcruple

to put into our liquors to cool them. She durft not, however, venture to enjoy a pleafure which I never fail to feize when I am in the neighbourhood of thefe first fources of cur rivers, I mean that of drinking the water before its progrefs over the land, and even before it paffes in the ftate of rain through that ftratum of air full of fo many exbalations that furrcund us on the plains. To thofe that like water, this has really an exquifite tafte.

The bottom of the Glacier was fo gently inclined, that Mifs Scould travel on the ice. We ap proached fome of thofe eminences that, at a distance, feemed nothing but inconfiderable afperities; which one would be pleafed to find in order to preferve them from flipping, but which, when near, were 30, 40, or 50 feet high. We faw thofe fingular maffes of ftone that feem to have been scattered with defign; we followed the downs of gravel and large ftones, which almoft every where inveft the Glaciers, having an inclination on their fide equal ta that of the mountain. We found large chinks, at the bottom of which was heard the torrent; large, round holes full of water, into which, when we put a flick, it was thrown back like an arrow from a bow.

[ocr errors]

Time glides away rapidly when we are in a state of admiration, The fun fet before we thought of retiring. The ice at the top of the mountain that paffed fucceffively through thofe beautiful tinges that colour the vapours at the fetting of the fun, occupied us too agreeably to allow us to attend to one of the confequences we ought to have drawn from fuch phenomena. We did not reflect that night was at hand, till the Glaciers covered themfelves with azure, which being their natural colour, informed us, that the direct rays of the fun, even the moft refrangible of them, ceafed to

be

On the Formation and Phenomena of Glaciers.

be bent thither, and that we were now reduced to the vague light of the twilight. We then took the road to the village, which was still a good league diftant.

It would have been dark night when we arrived, had not the moon juft then got up. The luftre with which that fatellite all at once broke forth is not to be defcribed. I have often thought, that if an obfervatory were built at these heights, a number of ftars and comets might be discovered, the feeble rays of which have not hitherto been able to penetrate the dulky vapours at Green wich.

The windows of the house where we were lodged opened upon one of the lavas of ice, and we obferved likewife a part of the Icy fea, which poured out on that fide. The moon thed enough of light to enable us to diftinguish those immoveable waves, which precipitating themfelves upon one another, refemble exactly a tempeft painted by Vernet.

At this time, the peaceful inhabitants of Grindelwald had retired to their cottages; no found agitated the air, not even that of the bells of their flocks: content with the provifions they had found during the day on the hills and in the meadows, they paffed the night in repofe, and every thing was ftill. This folemn filence in the bofom of the rocks, joined to the ferenity of the fky and the calmnefs of the air, involved us in a kind of reverie, when all at once the thunder feemed to burst from the mountain, It was a part of the Glacier making one of its flow, but awful movements, and striking the ear with a tremendous found, which a thoufand echoes are ever ready to repeat and to prolong. Thefe detonations were several times heard in the mountain, while the fpectacle

145

was aggrandized by the foft light of the moon, which penetrated into the finuofities of the rocks. In fhort, the whole together fo filled the eye and the mind, that the chill nefs of the night, and the neceffity of repofe after a day of unceasing fatigue, could hardly force us to retire.

When one feels a difpofition to talk for ever on a fubject, it always difcovers fome motive of the heart, fome attachment independent of reafon; and I confess this attachment for mountains. I could, no doubt, explain this, confidering myfelf as a painter; for where are picturefque objects more multiplied than here? I might alfo account for it, confidering nyfelf as a naturalift; for minerals and foffils of every kind, plants and infects, are no where fo varied; and the theory of the earth will never be establisflied, till we have first determined that of mountains. I might afcribe it to more benevolent motives, confidering myself as a friend of humanity; for no where is happiness to be found more unmixed. As a friend of peaceful retirement, I may still as eafily explain, to those who love it like myfelf, the pleasures of thofe wild and awful folitudes, which can no where ele be enjoyed in fuch majefty and fecurity.

But ftill thefe do not explain this ftrong attachment which awakens in me a particular emotion whenever I think of mountains. This interefting fenfation, this inexplicable phenomenon, I fhall afterwards endeavour more fully to de feribe. I feel its effects, not at particular places, but wherever I go among the Alps; though I experience the plenitude of its power on. ly in ferene weather on their ifolated tops.

$ 2

DE LUC.

An

State of the Mind on the Tops of ra, which, acceffible from every

Mountains. By the fame.

MADAM,

IN

fide, furnishes in abundance these interesting profpects. Neufchatel is built at the foot of an almoft ifolated mountain, which makes part of the chain it is called Chaumont, and from its fummit are to be feen many of those beautiful lakes which fo agreeably adorn the country; and many of thofe charming vallies in which the elegant arts are cultivated and encouraged.

But this was not the only pleafure I intended my companion: we foon left Neufchatel in one of the country carriages, called a Char-abanc, which is a little car furnished with a feat. It is the best vehicle that the steep and ftony fides of that mountain will allow; yet we would have found it a very indifferent one, if our attention had not been otherwife engaged.

N the defcriptions which I have hitherto had the honour of giving your Majefty, I have been obliged to paint the beauties of the places we have travelled through only in detail; for when we enter the vallies of the Alps, the view is perpetually confined, and there are few acceffible fummits from which it can be extended. However, one of the advantages of mountains, with regard to fine profpects, is their elevation on plains, by which the eye can fometimes take in a whole, of which the imagination could hardly form an idea. This manner of viewing à-vol-d'oiseau, while it enlarges the 1phere of vifion, makes it penetrate farther, and multiplies the detail without We afcended in a winding path end. In a word, every thing here on the fide of a mountain covered is beautiful and in profufion. A with wood: fometimes our way led whole village, of which nothing us into the gloomieft receffes; then material is loft, is but a point in emerging again into day, we found thefe immenfe pictures. The ri- ourfelves foaring more and more vers that run paft them difplay o- above the lake of Neufchatel, which penly their beautiful meanders: they feemed at our fect. At these times may penetrate the recefles of the we enjoyed a very fingular profforeft, and thus hide themselves pect. The furface of the lake, even from the inhabitants of their gently agitated, reflected fo combanks; but the fhepherd of the pletely the azure of the sky, that it mountain defcries them in their feemed the fky itfelf. The trees courfe, and can trace their windings that were under our road on the as on a map. If one of thofe beau- fide of the mountain feemed to tiful natural bafons enter the fcene form the horizon, and thus hid from into which the rivers empty their us the ground beyond the lake, and waters to purify them, and round even beyond the mountains: but which men are eager to eftablifh we faw the lake through the trunks their habitations, in order to enjoy of the trees, while the sky appeared the advantages of navigation and above their branches, and the cothe fishery, how much is the fpec- lour of both was fo perfectly alike, tacle enlivened and enriched! that we could not prevent ourselves from imagining that the fky was actually below us, and that we ourfelves were fufpended on fome little fatellite in the immensity of space.

This was one of those beauties which I wifhed Mifs S to contemplate, before quitting the mountains of Switzerland; and therefore I took the road to Neufchatel; because thus we approached to Ju

By fuch entertaining paths, we gradually

on the Tops of Mountains.

147

gradually reached the fummit of down. Nearly two hours past away the mountain. Here our profpects without our perceiving the time, were extended in every direction. and almoft wholly in filence. Mifs We had, to the Eaft, the lakes of S thought herself in paradife, and Neufchatel, of Morat, and of Bienne, would never have returned to the inclofed in a common bafon, one earth, if a fresh wind had not got up half of which was bordered by the and increased as the fun grew low. Alps: To the Weft were thofe It grows cold, faid fhe, let us be govallies fo delightful from their ver- ing and we forfook our paradise, dure and population: To the North or rather our paradife forfook us. and South extended that chain of Jura fo agreeably diverfified with rugged precipices and foft green turf. In short, a profufion of fuperb profpects literally covered the whole horizon.

We continued for a time in a ftate of admiration ; and I prefently discovered in Mifs S the effect I expected from her fenfibility; but it exceeded my expectation: fhe became thoughtful, and feemed no longer intent on the objects before her; he drew her breath at intervals, with the avidity of a perfon warm and fatigued who quenches his thirft: fhe then half, fhut her eyes, and remained filent. I obferved her, and kept filence myself: one is not then inclined to speak, in order to defcribe what one feels; one cannot find words; and all is well would be fufficient, if even that could be heard. In her calm reverie.the tears stole from her half fhut eyes, and a fmile was inftantly on her lips to justify them. "What is this?" faid fhe with furprife; "do I really weep for joy have I fuddenly recovered my former years? Never did I feel, without apparent caufe, any thing fimilar to the ftate in which I now find myfelf, except in the most innocent days of my early youth." We were standing and walking flowly on a pretty extenfive turf, when we began to feel this delightful mode of existence. We drew near to fome little rocks that elevated themselves above the turf, and formed very convenient feats. We fat

I could never have defcribed this phenomenon of mountains in a way more allied to fentiment, than by the striking fymptoms that fhewed themfelves in Mifs S, except 1 had borrowed at once the expreffions of a man who was able to penetrate to the bottom of the foul in order to call forth its feelings. When the lover of Julia dares to confefs to her that, on the mountains, he could support even her abfence, he has faid enough to exprefs how the mind is there difengaged from fenfe.

Indeed I cannot comprehend in any other way what I have so often felt on the ifolated tops of mountains when the air is calm and ferene. There is no fituation that I can recall to my imagination with fo much delight. Rouleau had ex-actly the fame feeling, and I have even had the honour of enjoying it more than once along with him. He tranfports me ftill to the mountains, when I read these enchanting lines: "There, the pleafures "are more exquifite, the paffions "more compofed: in proportion as "we draw near the ethereal re"gions the foul acquires fomewhat "of their unalterable purity: we

[ocr errors]

are grave without melancholy, peaceful without floth, content "with exiftence and the faculty of "thinking." Oh! how thefe laft words affect me, and what fenfations they produced in my foul when I read them firft!

It was thus, indeed, that I always explained to myself my own fitua

tion.

tion. All my fenfes are then fo calm and tranquill that they difappear, and I no longer perceive them. I am then myself, a being incomprehenfible, but who is confcious of his existence, and for whom that existence alone is a bleffing. I am-but shall I thus venture to defcribe, and to anticipate the liberty of my foul, which, difengaged from the fetters that entangle it, wings its way to the celestial regions, and procures a foretaste of the happinefs of death? I die, and I am fenfible that death is a good; that I quit nothing that I ought to regret upon earth; that my foul afks

nothing more than the duration of that ftate, to thank without ceafing the Author of its existence. Let me but exift, O God! and let me celebrate thy goodness: let me be divested of this corporeal incumbrance, and I need nothing else to give me a full idea of perfect felicity!

Such then are the ecftacies in which I always feel myfelf entranced on the mountains: where I draw more arguments for the immateriality and immortality of my foul, than from all the writings of philofophers.

DE LUC.

An Account of the Cave of Cannara, in the Eaft Indies; in a Letter from Hector Macneil, Efq; at Bombay, to a Friend in England *.

THE off late attracted the to join the Continent, being fepa

HE caves of Salfet and Elephan- which place the island may be faid

notice of the virtuofi at this place, and are now the general topic of converfation.

As nothing has hitherto appeared on this fubject, except a fhort and imperfect defcription of the cave at Elephanta †, I fhall attempt to give you fome idea of what fill ed me with aftonishment during a late excursion to Salfet, undertaken chiefly with a defign to explore thofe ancient monuments of genius and fuperftitiori.

The island of Salfet lies in the fame latitude with Bombay, and is feparated from it only by a narrow arm of the fea at the N. W. extremity of the island. It is confiderably larger than Bombay, and excels it as much in beauty as it does in all kinds of animal and vegetable productions, which are found here in great abundance and perfection. The principal town is Tarmah, at

rated only by a fall inlet of the fea, which at low water admits of paffing over on foot without any inconvenience. Tarmah form erly belonged to the Portuguese, who built the present fort; a place of confiderable ftrength, and lately in the hands of the Mahrattas, from whom we took it at the commencement of the war with that nation, but not without fome lofs, as four hundred grenadiers were killed in the attack before it capitulated.

Accompanied by fome gentlemen of the place, I fet out from Tarmalı early in the morning for the caves of Cannara; a fpot as fingular for the production of art, as for the lonely romantic fcenes of nature that furround it.

On my first approach to this fingular and aftonishing fcene, I was filled with wonder at every ftep: palaces, ftatues, giants, mon

Archeologia, Vol. VIII.
See Edin. Mag. Vol II. p. 6.

fters,

« ZurückWeiter »