fired. The first volley did not seem to affect them much; but on the second, they began to scramble away as fast as they could, some of them howling. We continued firing as long as we could see the glimpse of any of them through the bushes. Amongst the Indians were two very stout men, who never offered to move till they found themselves forsaken by their companions; and then they marched away with great composure and deliberation; their pride not suffering them to run. One of them, however, got a fall, and either lay there or crawled off on all-fours. The other got clear without any apparent hurt. I then landed with the marines, and Mr. Fannin staid to guard the boat.

"On the beach were two bundles of celery, which had been gathered for loading the cutter. A broken oar was struck upright in the ground, to which the natives had tied their canoes; a proof that the attack had been made here. I then searched all along at the back of the beach, to see if the cutter was there. We found no boat, but instead of her, such a shocking scene of carnage and barbarity as can never be mentioned or thought of but with horror; for the heads, hearts, and lungs of several of our people were seen lying on the beach, and, at a little distance, the dogs gnawing their entrails. Whilst we remained almost stupified on the spot, Mr. Fannin called to us that he heard the savages gathering together in the woods; on which I returned to the boat, and hauling alongside the canoes, we demolished three of them. Whilst this was transacting, the fire on the top of the hill disappeared; and we could hear the Indians in the woods at high words: I suppose quarrelling whether or no they should attack us, and try to save their canoes. It now grew dark: I therefore just stepped out, and looked once more behind the beach, to see if the cutter had been hauled up in the bushes; but seeing nothing of her, returned and put off. Our whole force would have been barely sufficient to have gone up the hill, and to have ventured with half (for half must have been left to guard the boat) would have been fool-hardiness.

"As we opened the upper part of the Sound, we saw a very large fire about three or four miles higher up, which formed a complete oval, reaching from the top of a hill down almost to the water-side, the middle space being enclosed all round by the fire, like a hedge. I consulted with Mr. Fannin, and we were both of opinion that we could expect to reap no other advantage than the poor satisfaction of killing some more of the savages. At leaving Grass Cove, we had fired a general volley towards where we heard the Indians talking; but by going in and out of the boat, the arms had got wet, and four pieces missed fire. What was still worse, it began to rain; our ammunition was more than half expended, and we left six large canoes behind us in one place. With so many disadvantages, I did not think it worth while to proceed, where nothing could be hoped for but revenge. Coming between two round islands, situated to the southward of East Bay, we imagined we heard somebody calling; we lay on our oars and listened, but heard no more of it; we hallooed several times, but to little purpose; the poor souls were far enough out of hearing; and, indeed, I think it some comfort to reflect that, in all probability, every man of them must have been killed on the spot."

Thus far Mr. Burney's report; and, to complete the account of this tragical transaction, it may not be unnecessary to mention that the people in the cutter were, Mr. Rowe, Mr. Woodhouse; Francis Murphy, quarter-master; William Facey, Thomas Hill, Michael Bell, and Edward Jones, forecastle-men; John Cavenaugh and Thomas Milton, belonging to the afterguard; and James Sevilley, the captain's man; being ten in all. Most of these were of our very best seamen, the stoutest and most healthy people in the ship. Mr. Burney's party brought on board two hands; one belonging to Mr. Rowe, known by a hurt he had received on it; the other to Thomas Hill, as before mentioned; and the head of the captain's servant. These, with more of the remains, were tied in a hammock and thrown overboard, with ballast and shot sufficient to sink it. None of their arms nor clothes were found, except part of a pair of trowsers, a frock, and six shoes, no two of them being fellows.

I am not inclined to think this was any premeditated plan of these savages; for the morning Mr. Rowe left the ship, he met two canoes, which came down and staid all the forenoon in Ship Cove. It might probably happen from some quarrel which was decided on the spot; or the fairness of the opportunity might tempt them, our people being so incautious, and thinking themselves too secure. Another thing which encouraged the New Zealanders was, they were sensible that a gun was not infallible, that they sometimes missed, and that, when

discharged, they must be loaded before they could be used again, which time they knew how to take advantage of. After their success, I imagine there was a general meeting on the east side of the Sound. The Indians of Shag Cove were there; this we knew by a cock which was in one of the canoes, and by a long single canoe, which some of our people had seen four days before in Shag Cove, where they had been with Mr. Rowe in the cutter.

We were detained in the Sound by contrary winds four days after this melancholy affair happened, during which time we saw none of the inhabitants. What is very remarkable, I had been several times up in the same cove with Captain Cook, and never saw the least sign of an inhabitant, except some deserted towns, which appeared as if they had not been occupied for several years; and yet, when Mr. Burney entered the cove, he was of opinion there could not be less than fifteen hundred or two thousand people. I doubt not, had they been apprised of his coming, they would have attacked him. From these considerations I thought it imprudent to send a boat up again, as we were convinced there was not the least probability of any of our people being alive.

On the 23d, we weighed and made sail out of the Sound, and stood to the eastward to get clear of the Straits; which we accomplished the same evening, but were baffled for two or three days with light winds before we could clear the coast. We then stood to the S.S.E., till we got into the latitude of 56° S., without anything remarkable happening, having a great swell from the southward. At this time the winds began to blow strong from the S.W., and the weather to be very cold; and as the ship was low and deep laden, the sea made a continual breach over her, which kept us always wet; and by her straining, very few of the people were dry in bed or on deck, having no shelter to keep the sea from them. The birds were the only companions we had in this vast ocean; except, now and then, we saw a whale or porpoise, and sometimes a seal or two, and a few penguins. In the latitude of 58° S., longitude 213° * E., we fell in with some ice, and every day saw more or less, we then standing to the E. We found a very strong current setting to the eastward; for by the time we were abreast of Cape Horn, being in the latitude of 61° S., the ship was ahead of our account eight degrees. We were very little more than a month from Cape Palliser, in New Zealand, to Cape Horn, which is an hundred and twenty-one degrees of longitude, and had continual westerly winds from S. W. to N.W., with a great sea following.

On opening some casks of peas and flour, that had been stowed on the coals, we found them very much damaged, and not eatable; so thought it most prudent to make for the Cape of Good Hope, but first to stand into the latitude and longitude of Cape Circumcision. After being to the eastward of Cape Horn, we found the winds did not blow so strong from the westward as usual, but came more from the north, which brought on thick foggy weather; so that for several days together we could not be able to get an observation, or see the least sign of the sun. This weather lasted above a month, being then among a great many islands of ice, which kept us constantly on the look-out for fear of running foul of them, and, being a single ship, made us more attentive. By this time our people began to complain of colds and pains in their limbs, which obliged me to haul to the northward to the latitude of 54° S.; but we still continued to have the same sort of weather, though we had oftener an opportunity of obtaining observations for the latitude. After getting into the latitude above mentioned, I steered to the east, in order, if possible, to find the land laid down by Bouvet. As we advanced to the east, the islands of ice became more numerous and dangerous, they being much smaller than they used to be, and the nights began to be dark.

On the 3d of March, being then in the latitude of 54° 4' S., longitude 13° E., which is the latitude of Bouvet's discovery, and half a degree to the eastward of it, and not seeing the least sign of land, either now or since we have been in this parallel, I gave over looking for it, and hauled away to the north ward. As our last track to the southward was within a few degrees of Bouvet's discovery, in the longitude assigned to it, and about three or four degrees to the southward, should there be any land thereabout, it must be a very inconsiderable island. But I believe it was nothing but ice, as we, in our first setting out, thought we had seen land several times, but it proved to be high islands of ice at the back of the large fields; and as it was thick foggy weather when Mr. Bouvet fell in with it, he might very easily mistake them for land.

* About 147 west longitude, as I reckon.

On the 7th, being in the latitude of 48° 30'S., longitude 14° 26' E., saw two large islands of ice. On the 17th, made the land of the Cape of Good Hope; and on the 19th, anchored in Table Bay, where we found Commodore Sir Edward Hughes, with his Majesty's ships Salisbury and Seahorse. I saluted the Commodore with thirteen guns, and, soon after, the garrison with the same number; the former returned the salute, as usual, with two guns less, and the latter with an equal number.

On the 24th, Sir Edward Hughes sailed with the Salisbury and Seahorse for the East Indies; but I remained, refitting the ship and refreshing my people, till the 16th of April, when I sailed for England; and on the 14th of July, anchored at Spithead.

CHAPTER IX.-TRANSACTIONS AT THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE; WITH AN ACCOUNT OF SOME DISCOVERIES MADE BY THE FRENCH; AND THE ARRIVAL OF THE SHIP AT ST. HELENA.

I Now resume my own Journal, which Captain Furneaux's interesting Narrative, in the preceding chapter, had obliged me to suspend.

The day after my arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, I went on shore and waited on the governor, Baron Plettenberg, and other principal officers, who received and treated us with the greatest politeness, contributing all in their power to make it agreeable. And, as there are few people more obliging to strangers than the Dutch in general at this place, and refreshments of all kinds are nowhere to be got in such abundance, we enjoyed some real repose, after the fatigues of a long voyage. The good treatment which strangers meet with at the Cape of Good Hope, and the necessity of breathing a little fresh air, has introduced a custom not common anywhere else (at least I have nowhere seen it so strictly observed), which is, for all the officers who can be spared out of the ships to reside on shore. We followed this custom. Myself, the two Mr. Forsters, and Mr. Sparrman, took up our abode with Mr. Brandt, a gentleman well known to the English by his obliging readiness to serve them. My first care after my arrival, was to procure fresh-baked bread, fresh meat, greens, and wine, for those who remained on board; and, being provided every day during our stay with these articles, they were soon restored to their usual strength. We had only three men on board whom it was thought necessary to send on shore for the recovery of their health; and for these I procured quarters, at the rate of thirty stivers, or half-a-crown, per day, for which they were provided with victuals, drink, and lodging.

We now went to work to supply all our defects. For this purpose, by permission, we erected a tent on shore, to which we sent our casks and sails to be repaired. We also struck the yards and topmasts, in order to overhaul the rigging, which we found in so bad a condition, that almost everything, except the standing rigging, was obliged to be replaced with new; and that was purchased at a most exorbitant price. In the article of naval stores, the Dutch here, as well as at Batavia, take a shameful advantage of the distress of foreigners. That our rigging, sails, &c. should be worn out, will not be wondered at, when it is known, that, during this circumnavigation of the globe, that is, from our leaving this place, to our return to it again, we had sailed no less than twenty thousand leagues; an extent of voyage nearly equal to three times the equatorial circumference of the earth, and which, I apprehend, was never sailed by any ship in the same space of time before. And yet, in all this great run, which had been made in all latitudes between 9° and 71°, we sprung neither lowmasts, top-mast, lower nor top-sail yard, nor so much as broke a lower or top-mast shroud; which, with the great care and abilities of my officers, must be owing to the good properties of our ship.

One of the French ships which were at anchor in the bay, was the Ajax Indiaman, bound to Pondicherry, commanded by Captain Crozet. He had been second in command with Captain Marion, who sailed from this place with two ships, in March 1772, as hath been already mentioned. Instead of going from hence to America, as was said, he stood away for New Zealand; where, in the Bay of Isles, he and some of his people were killed by the inhabitants. Captain Crozet, who succeeded to the command, returned by the way of the Philippine Isles, with the two ships, to the Island of Mauritius. He seemed to be a man

possessed of the true spirit of discovery, and to have abilities. In a very obliging manner, he communicated to me a chart, wherein were delineated not only his own discoveries, but also that of Captain Kerguelen, which I found laid down in the very situation where we searched for it; so that I can, by no means, conceive how both we and the Adventure missed it. Besides this land, which Captain Crozet told us was a long but very narrow island, extending east and west, Captain Marion, in about the latitude of 43° S., and from 16° to 30° of longitude east of the Cape of Good Hope, discovered six islands which were high and barren*. These, together with some islands lying between the line and the southern tropic in the Pacific Ocean, were the principal discoveries made in this voyage, the account of which, we were told, was ready for publication.

By Captain Crozet's chart, it appeared that a voyage had been made by the French across the South Pacific Ocean, in 1769, under the command of one Captain Surville; who, on condition of his attempting discoveries, had obtained leave to make a trading voyage to the coast of Peru. He fitted out, and took in a cargo, in some part of the East Indies; proceeded by way of the Philippine Isles; passed near New Britain; and discovered some land in the latitude of 10° S., longitude 158° E. to which he gave his own name. From hence he steered to the south; passed but a few degrees to the west of New Caledonia; fell in with New Zealand at its northern extremity, and put into Doubtful Bay, where, it seems, he was when I passed it, on my former voyage, in the Endeavour. From New Zealand, Captain Surville steered to the east, between the latitude of 35° and 41° south, until he arrived on the coast of America; where, in the port of Callao, in attempting to land, he was drowned. These voyages of the French, though undertaken by private adventurers, have contributed something towards exploring the Southern Ocean. That of Captain Surville clears up a mistake which I was led into, in imagining the shoals off the west end of New Caledonia to extend to the west, as far as New Holland. It proves that there is an open sea in that space, and that we saw the N.W. extremity of that country.

From the same gentleman we learnt, that the ship which had been at Otaheite before our first arrival there this voyage, was from New Spain; and that, in her return, she had discovered some islands in the latitude of 32° S. and under the meridian of 130° W. Some other islands, said to be discovered by the Spaniards, appeared on this chart; but Captain Crozet seemed to think, they were inserted from no good authorities. We were likewise informed of a later voyage undertaken by the French, under the command of Captain Kerguelen, which had ended much to the disgrace of that commander.

While we lay in Table Bay, several foreign ships put in and out, bound to and from India, viz. English, French, Danes, Swedes, and three Spanish frigates, two of them going to, and one coming from, Manilla. It is but very lately that the Spanish ships have touched here; and these were the first that were allowed the same privileges as other European friendly nations. On examining our rudder, the pintles were found to be loose, and we were obliged to unhang it, and take it on shore to repair. We were also delayed for want of calkers to calk the ship, which was absolutely necessary to be done, before we put to sea. At length I obtained two workmen from one of the Dutch ships; and the Dutton English East Indiaman, coming in from Bengal, Captain Rice, obliged me with two more; so that by the 26th of April, this work was finished; and having got on board all necessary stores, and a fresh supply of provisions and water, we took leave of the governor and other principal officers, and the next morning repaired on board. Soon after, the wind coming fair, we weighed and put to sea; as did also the Spanish frigate Juno, from Manilla, a Danish Indiaman, and the Dutton. As soon as we were under sail, we saluted the garrison with thirteen guns; which compliment was immediately returned with the same number. The Spanish frigate and Danish Indiaman both saluted us as we passed them, and I returned each salute with an equal number of guns. When we were clear of the bay, the Danish ship steered for the East Indies, the Spanish frigate for Europe, and we and the Dutton for St. Helena.

* These were visited by Cook when going out on his third voyage, and were distinguished by him by the names of Prince Edward's Islands, Marion's and Crozet's Islands. For a further account of Kerguelen's Land, see the

narrative of Cook's visit to it on his third voyage, in Dec. 1776, and Dr. Douglas's notes upon the subject of the previous visits of the French.-ED.

Depending on the goodness of Mr. Kendall's watch, I resolved to try to make the island, by a direct course. For the first six days, that is, till we got into the latitude of 27° S., longitude 11° W. of the Cape, the winds were southerly and S.E. After this we had variable light airs for two days; they were succeeded by a wind at S.E. which continued to the island, except a part of one day, when it was at N.E. In general, the wind blew faint all the passage, which made it longer than common. At daybreak in the morning of the 15th of May, we saw the island of St. Helena, at the distance of fourteen leagues; and, at midnight, anchored in the road before the town, on the N.W. side of the island. At sunrise the next morning, the castle, and also the Dutton, saluted us, each with thirteen guns: on my landing, soon after, I was saluted by the castle, with the same number; and each of the salutes was returned by the ship. Governor Skettowe, and the principal gentlemen of the

island, received and treated me, during my stay, with the greatest politeness, by showing me every kind of civility in their power.

Whoever views St. Helena, in its present state, and can but conceive what it must have been originally, will not hastily charge the inhabitants with want of industry: though, perhaps, they might apply it to more advantage, were more land appropriated

to planting of corn,

ST. HELENA.

vegetables, roots, &c., instead of being laid out in pasture, which is the present mode. But this is not likely to happen, so long as the greatest part of it remains in the hands of the Company and their servants. Without industrious planters this island can never flourish, and be in a condition to supply the shipping with the necessary refreshments*. Within these three years a new church has been built; some other new buildings were in hand; a commodious landing-place for boats has been made; and several other improvements, which add both strength and beauty to the place. During our stay here we finished some necessary repairs of the ship, which we had not time to do at the Cape. We also filled all our empty water-casks; and the crew were served with fresh beef, purchased at fivepence per pound. Their beef is exceedingly good, and is the only refreshment to be had worth mentioning.

By a series of observations made at the Cape Town, and at James Fort, in St. Helena; at the former by Messrs. Mason and Dixon, and at the latter by Mr. Maskelyne, the present astronomer royal; the difference of longitude between these two places is 24° 12' 15", only two miles more than Mr. Kendall's watch made. The lunar observations made by Mr. Wales, before we arrived at the island, and after we left it, and reduced to it by the watch, gave

* In recent years great improvement has taken place in the cultivation of the island, which has been encouraged by the exertions of the government and the establishment of Agricultural and Horticultural Societies. Still the

chief supplies to be obtained here are fresh meat and water; and the former is held of such importance, that no one is allowed to kill an ox without the governor's per mission.-ED.