situated, according to his account, in latitude 14° 29', longitude 168° 9′; and, N. by W., eight leagues from Aurora. The next island, which lies farthest north, is that of Tierra del Espiritu Santo. It is the most western and largest of all the Hebrides, being twenty-two leagues long, in the direction of N.N.W.west, and S.S.E. east, twelve in breadth, and sixty in circuit. We have obtained the true figure of this island very accurately. The land of it, especially the west side, is exceedingly high and mountainous; and, in many places, the hills rise directly from the sea. Except the cliffs and beaches, every other part is covered with wood, or laid out in plantations. Besides the Bay of St. Philip and St. Jago, the isles which lie along the south and east coast cannot, in my opinion, fail of forming some good bays or harbours. The next considerable island is that of Mallicollo, to the S.E. It extends N.W. and S.E., and is eighteen leagues long in that direction. Its greatest breadth, which is at the S.E. end, is eight leagues. The N.W. end is two-thirds this breadth; and nearer the middle, one-third. This contraction is occasioned by a wide and pretty deep bay on the S.W. side. To judge of this island from what we saw of it, it must be very fertile and well inhabited. The land on the sea-coast is rather low, and lies with a gentle slope from the hills which are in the middle of the island. Two-thirds of the N.E. coast were only seen at a great distance; therefore the delineations of it on the chart can have no pretensions to accuracy; but the other parts, I apprehend, are without any material errors. St. Bartholomew lies between the S.E. end of Tierra del Espiritu Santo, and the north end of Mallicollo; and the distance between it and the latter is eight miles. This is the passage through which M. de Bougainville went; and the middle of it is in latitude 15° 48′. The Isle of Lepers lies between Espiritu Santo and Aurora Island, eight leagues from the former, and three from the latter, in latitude 15° 22′, and nearly under the same meridian as the S.E. end of Mallicollo. It is of an egg-like figure, very high, and eighteen or twenty leagues in circuit. Its limits were determined by several bearings; but the lines of the shore were traced out by guess, except the N.E. part, where is anchorage half a mile from the land. Aurora, Whitsuntide, Ambrym, Paoom, and its neighbour Apee, Threehills, and Sandwich Islands, lie all nearly under the meridian of 167 29′ or 30' east, extending from the latitude of 14° 51′ 30′′, to 17° 53′ 30′′. The island of Aurora lies N. by W. and S. by E., and is eleven leagues long in that direction; but I believe it hardly anywhere exceeds two or two and a half in breadth. It hath a good height, its surface hilly, and everywhere covered with wood, except where the natives have their dwellings and plantations. Whitsuntide Isle, which is one league and a half to the south of Aurora, is of the same length, and lies in the direction of north and south, but is something broader than Aurora Island. It is considerably high, and clothed with wood, except such parts as seemed to be cultivated, which were pretty numerous. From the south end of Whitsuntide Island to the north side of Ambrym is two leagues and a half. This is about seventeen leagues in circuit; its shores are rather low, but the land rises with an unequal ascent to a tolerably high mountain in the middle of the island, from which ascended great columns of smoke; but we were not able to determine whether this was occasioned by a volcano or not. That it is fertile and well inhabited seems probable, from the quantities of smoke which we saw rise out of the woods, in such parts of the island as came within the compass of our sight; for it must be observed, that we did not see the whole of it. We saw much less still of Paoom, and its neighbourhood. I can say no more of this island than that it towers up to a great height, in the form of a round haystack; and the extent of it, and of the adjoining isle (if there are two) cannot exceed three or four leagues in any direction; for the distance between Ambryn and Apee is hardly five; and they lie in this space, and east from Port Sandwich, distant about seven or eight leagues. The island of Apee is not less than twenty leagues in circuit; its longest direction is about eight leagues N. W. and S.E.; it is of considerable height, and hath a hilly surface, diversified with woods and lawns, the west and south parts especially; for the others we did not see. Shepherd's Isles are a group of small ones of unequal size, extending off from the S.E. point of Apee about five leagues, in the direction of S E. The island Threehills lies south four leagues from the coast of Apee, and S.E. S., distant seventeen leagues from Port Sandwich to this, and what has been already said of it, I shall only add, that W. by N., five miles from the west point, is a reef of rocks on which the sea continually breaks. Nine leagues, in the direction of south, from Threehills, lies Sandwich Island. Twohills, the Monument, and Montagu Islands, lie to the east of this line, and Hinchinbrook to the west, as also two or three small isles which lie between it and Sandwich Island, to which they are connected by breakers. Sandwich Island is twenty-five leagues in circuit; its greatest extent is ten leagues; and it lies in the direction of N.W. by W., and S. E. by E. The N.W. coast of this island we only viewed at a distance; therefore the chart in this part may be faulty, so far as it regards the line of the coast, but no farther. The distance from the south end of Mallicollo to the N.W. end of Sandwich Island is twenty-two leagues in the direction of S.S.E. E. In the same direction lie Erromango, Tanna, and Annattom. The first is eighteen leagues from Sandwich Island, and is twenty-four or twenty-five leagues in circuit. The middle of it lies in the latitude of 18° 54′, longitude 169° 19′ E., and it is of a good height, as may be gathered from the distance we were off when we first saw it. Tanna lies six leagues from the south side of Erromango, extending S.E. by S. and N.W. by N., about eight leagues long in that direction, and everywhere about three or four leagues broad. The Isle of Immer lies in the direction of N. by E. E., four leagues from Port Resolution in Tanna; and the island of Erronan or Footoona east, in the same direction, distant eleven leagues. This, which is the most eastern island of all the Hebrides, did not appear to be above five leagues in circuit, but of a considerable height, and flat at top. On the N.E. side is a little peak, seemingly disjoined from the isle, but we thought it was connected by low land. Annattom, which is the southernmost island, is situated in the latitude of 20° 3', longitude 170° 4′, and S. 30° E., eleven or twelve leagues from Port Resolution. It is of a good height, with a hilly surface; and more I must not say of it. Here follow the lunar observations by Mr. Wales, for ascertaining the longitude of these islands, reduced by the watch to Port Sandwich in Mallicollo and Port Resolution in Tanna. It is necessary to observe, that each set of observations, consisting of between six and ten observed distances of the sun and moon, or moon and stars, the whole number amounts to several hundreds; and these have been reduced, by means of the watch, to all the islands; so that the longitude of each is as well ascertained as that of the two ports above mentioned. As a proof of this, I shall only observe, that the longitude of the two ports, as pointed out by the watch and by the observations, did not differ two miles. This also shows what degree of accuracy these observations are capable of, when multiplied to a considerable number, made with different instruments, and with the sun and stars, on both sides of the By this last method, the errors, which may be either in the instruments or lunar tables, destroy one another, and likewise those which may arise from the observer himself; for some men may observe closer than others. If we consider the number of observations that may be obtained in the course of a month (if the weather is favourable), we shall perhaps find this method of finding the longitude of places as accurate as most others; at least, it is the most easy, and attended with the least expense to the observer. Every ship that goes to foreign parts is, or may be, supplied with a sufficient number of quadrants at a small expense; I mean good ones, proper for making these observations. For the difference of the price between a good and bad one, I apprehend, can never be an moon. object with an officer. The most expensive article, and what is in some measure necessary in order to arrive at the utmost accuracy, is a good watch; but for common use, and where that strict accuracy is not required, this may be dispensed with. I have observed before, in this journal, that this method of finding the longitude is not so difficult but that any man, with proper application, and a little practice, may soon learn to make these observations as well as the astronomers themselves. I have seldom known any material difference between the observations made by Mr. Wales, and those made by the officers at the same time*. In observing the variation of the magnetic needle, we found, as usual, our compasses differ among themselves, sometimes near 2o; the same compass, too, would sometimes make nearly this difference in the variation on different days, and even between the morning and evening of the same day, when our change of situation has been but very little. By the mean of the observations which I made about Erromango, and the S.E. part of these islands, the variation of the compass was 10° 5' 48" east; and the mean of those made about Tierra del Espiritu Santo gave 10° 5' 30" east. This is considerably more than Mr. Wales found it to be at Tanna. I cannot say what might occasion this difference in the variation observed at sea and on shore, unless it be influenced by the land; for I must give the preference to that found at sea, as it is agreeable to what we observed before we made the islands, and after we left them. CHAPTER VIII.—AN ACCOUNT OF THE DISCOVERY OF NEW CALEDONIA, AND THE INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED WHILE THE SHIP LAY IN BALADE. Ar sunrise on the 1st of September, after having stood to S. W. all night, no more land was to be seen. The wind remaining in the S.E. quarter, we continued to stand to S.W. On the 2nd, at five o'clock P.M., being in the latitude 18° 22′, longitude 165o 26′, the variation was 10° 50' east; and at the same hour on the 3rd, it was 10° 51', latitude at that time 19o 14', longitude 165° east. The next morning, in the latitude of 19° 49′, longitude 164° 53', the amplitude gave 10° 21', and the azimuths 10° 7′ east. At eight o'clock, as we were steering to the south, land was discovered bearing S.S. W., and at noon it extended from S.S.E. to W. by S., distant about six leagues. We continued to steer for it with a light breeze at east, till five in the evening, when we were stopped by a calm. At this time we were three leagues from the land, which extended from S.E. by S. to W. by N., round by the S.W. Some openings appeared in the west, so that we could not tell whether it was one connected land or a group of islands. To the S.E. the coast seemed to terminate in a high promontory, which I named Cape Colnett, after one of my midshipmen, who first discovered this land. Breakers were seen about half-way between us and the shore; and, behind them, two or three canoes under sail, standing out to sea, as if their design had been to come off to us; but a little before sunset they struck their sails, and we saw them no more. After a few hours' calm, we got a breeze at S.E., and spent the night standing off and on. On the 5th, at sunrise, the horizon being clear, we could see the coast extend to the S.E. of Cape Colnett, and round by the S. W. to N. W. by W. Some gaps or openings were yet to be seen to the west; and a reef, or breakers, seemed to lie all along the coast, connected with those we discovered the preceding night. It was a matter of indifference to me whether we plied up the coast to the S.E. or bore down to N.W. I chose the latter; and after running two leagues down the outside of the reef (for such it proved), we came before an opening that had the appearance of a good channel, through which we might go in for the land. I wanted to get at it, not only to visit it, but also to have an opportunity to observe an eclipse of the sun which was soon to happen. With this view we brought to, hoisted out two armed boats, and sent them to sound the channel, ten or twelve large sailing canoes being then near us. We had observed them coming off from the shore, all the morning, from different parts; and some were lying on the reef, fishing as we supposed. As soon as * See page 443. they all got together, they came down to us in a body, and were pretty near when we were hoisting out our boats, which probably gave them some alarm; for, without stopping, they hauled in for the reef, and our boats followed them. We now saw that what we had taken for openings in the coast was low land, and that it was all connected, except the western extremity, which was an island, known by the name of Balabea, as we afterwards learnt. The boats having made a signal for a channel, and one of them being placed on the point of the reef, on the weather side of it, we stood in with the ship, and took up the other boat in our way, when the officer informed me, that where we were to pass, was sixteen and fourteen fathoms water, a fine sandy bottom, and that, having put alongside two canoes, he found the people very obliging and civil. They gave him some fish; and, in return, he presented them with medals, &c. In one was a stout robust young man, whom they understood to be a chief. After getting within the reef, we hauled up S. E. for a small low sandy isle that we observed lying under the shore, being followed by all the canoes. Our sounding, in standing in, was from fifteen to twelve fathoms (a pretty even fine sandy bottom), for about two miles; then we had six, five, and four fathoms. This was on the tail of a shoal which lies a little without the small isle to the N.E. Being over it, we found seven and eight fathoms water, which shallowed gradually, as we approached the shore, to three fathoms, when we tacked, stood off a little, and then anchored in five fathoms, the bottom a find sand mixed with mud. The little sandy isle bore E. by S., three quarters of a mile distant; and we were one mile from the shore of the main, which extended from S.E. by E. round by the south to W.N.W. The island of Balabea bore N.W. by N., and the channel, through which we came, north, four miles distant. In this situation we were extremely well sheltered from the reigning winds, by the sandy isle and its shoals, and by the shoal without them. We had hardly got to an anchor before we were surrounded by a great number of the natives, in sixteen or eighteen canoes, the most of whom were without any sort of weapons. At first they were shy of coming near the ship; but in a short time we prevailed on the people in one boat to get close enough to receive some presents. These we lowered down to them by a rope; to which, in return, they tied two fish that stunk intolerably, as did those they gave us in the morning. These mutual exchanges bringing on a kind of confidence, two ventured on board the ship; and presently after she was filled with them, and we had the company of several at dinner in the cabin. Our pea-soup, salt beef, and pork, they had no curiosity to taste; but they ate of some yams, which we happened to have yet left, calling them Oobee. This name is not unlike Oofee, as they are called at most of the islands, except Mallicollo; nevertheless we found these people spoke a language new to us. Like all the nations we had lately seen, the men were almost naked, having hardly any other covering but such a wrapper as is used at Mallicollo*. They were curious in examining every part of the ship, which they viewed with uncommon attention. They had not the least knowledge of goats, hogs, dogs, or cats, and had not even a name for one of them. They seemed fond of large spike-nails, and pieces of red cloth, or indeed of any other colour; but red was their favourite. After dinner I went on shore with two armed boats, having with us one of the natives who had attached himself to me. We landed on a sandy beach before a vast number of people, who had got together with no other intent than to see us; for many of them had not a stick in their hands; consequently we were received with great courtesy, and with the surprise natural for people to express at seeing men and things so new to them as we must be. I made presents to all those my friend pointed out, who were either old men, or such as seemed to be of some note; but he took not the least notice of some women who stood behind the crowd, holding my hand when I was going to give them some beads and medals. Here we found the same chief who had been seen in one of the canoes in the morning. His name, we now learnt, was Teabooma; and we had not been on shore above ten minutes, before he called for silence. Being instantly obeyed by every individual present, he made a short speech; and soon after another chief having called for silence, made a speech also. It was pleasing to see with what attention they were heard. Their speeches were composed of * See the note at page 499. short sentences; to each of which two or three old men answered, by noddding their heads, and giving a kind of grunt, significant, as I thought, of approbation. It was impossible for us to know the purport of these speeches; but we had reason to think they were favourable to us, on whose account they doubtless were made. I kept my eyes fixed on the people all the time, and saw nothing to induce me to think otherwise. While we were with them, having inquired, by signs, for fresh water, some pointed to the east, and others to the west. My friend undertook to conduct us to it, and embarked with us for that purpose. We rowed about two miles up the coast to the cast, where the shore was mostly covered with mangrove trees; and entering amongst them, by a narrow creek or river, which brought us to a little straggling village above all the mangroves, there we landed, and were shown fresh water. The ground near this village was finely cultivated, being laid out in plantations of sugarcanes, plantains, yams, and other roots; and watered by little rills, conducted by art from the main stream, whose source was in the hills. Here were some cocoa-nut trees, which did not seem burdened with fruit. We heard the crowing of cocks, but saw none. Some roots were baking on a fire, in an earthen jar, which would have held six or eight gallons; nor did we doubt its being their own manufacture. As we proceeded up the creek, Mr. Forster having shot a duck flying over our heads, which was the first use these people saw made of our fire-arms, my friend begged to have it; and when he landed, told his countrymen in what manner it was killed. The day being far spent, and the tide not permitting us to stay longer in the creek, we took leave of the people, and got on board a little after sunset. From this little excursion, I found that we were to expect nothing from these people but the privilege of visiting their country undisturbed. For it was easy to see they had little else than good-nature to bestow. In this they exceeded all the nations we had yet met with; and, although it did not satisfy the demands of nature, it at once pleased and left our minds at ease. Next morning we were visited by some hundreds of the natives; some coming in canoes, and others swimming off; so that before ten o'clock, our decks, and all other parts of the ship, were quite full with them. My friend, who was of the number, brought me a few roots, but all the others came empty in respect to eatables. Some few had with them their arms, such as clubs and darts, which they exchanged for nails, pieces of cloth, &c. After breakfast, I sent Lieutenant Pickersgill with two armed boats to look for fresh water; for what we found the day before was by no means convenient for us to get on board. At the same time, Mr. Wales, accompanied by Lieutenant Clerke, went to the little isle to make preparations for observing the eclipse of the sun, which was to be in the afternoon. Pickersgill soon returning, informed me that he had found a stream of fresh water, pretty convenient to come at. I therefore ordered the launch to be hoisted out to complete our water, and then went to the isle to assist in the observation. Mr. About one P.M. the eclipse came on. Clouds interposed, and we lost the first contact, but were more fortunate in the end, which was observed as follows: By Mr. Wales with Dollond's 34 foot achromatic refractor, at And by me with an 18 inch reflector, made by Watkins 3h 28′ 49′′ 3 28 524 Apparent time. 3 28 53 Latitude of the isle or place of observation, 20° 17′ 39′′ south. Mr. Wales measured the quantity eclipsed by a Hadley's quadrant, a method never before thought of. I am of opinion it answers the purpose of a micrometer to a great degree of certainty, and is a great addition to the use of this most valuable instrument. After all was over, we returned on board, where I found Teabooma the chief, who soon after slipped out of the ship without my knowledge, and by that means lost the present I had made up for him. In the evening I went ashore to the watering-place, which was at the head of a little creek, at a fine stream that came from the hills. It was necessary to have a small boat in the creek to convey the casks from and to the beach over which they were rolled, and then put into the launch; as only a small boat could enter the creek, and that only at high water. |