the caprice of the high-priest, who, when they are assembled on any solemn occasion, retires alone into the house of God, and stays there some time. When he comes out he informs them, that he has seen and conversed with their great God (the high priest alone having that privilege), and that he has asked for a human sacrifice, and tells them that he has desired such a person, naming a man present, whom most probably the priest has an antipathy against. He is immediately killed, and so falls a victim to the priest's resentment; who, no doubt, (if necessary,) has address enough to persuade the people that he was a bad man*. If I except their funeral ceremonies, all the knowledge that has been obtained of their religion, has been from information; and as their language is but imperfectly understood, even by those who pretend to the greatest knowledge of it, very little on this head is yet known with certainty.

The liquor which they make from the plant called Ava ava, is expressed from the root, and not from the leaves, as mentioned in the narrative of my former voyage. The manner of preparing this liquor is as simple as it is disgusting to a European. It is thus: several people take some of the root and chew it till it is soft and pulpy; then they spit it out into a platter, or other vessel, every one into the same; when a sufficient quantity is chewed, more or less water is put to it, according as it is to be strong or weak; the juice thus diluted is strained through some fibrous stuff like fine shavings; after which it is fit for drinking; and this is always done immediately. It has a pepperish taste, drinks flat, and rather insipid. But though it is intoxicating, I saw only one instance where it had that effect; as they generally drink it with great moderation, and but little at a time. Sometimes they chew this root in their mouths, as Europeans do tobacco, and swallow their spittle; and sometimes I have seen them eat it wholly. At Ulietea they cultivate great quantities of this plant. At Otaheite but very little. I believe there are but few islands in this sea that do not produce more or less of it; and the natives apply it to the same use, as appears by Le Maire's account of Horn Island, wherein he speaks of the natives making a liquor from a plant in the same manner as above mentioned.

was necessary for the fatu raa, or attaching the new portion; and a third for the piu raa, or twitching the sacred relic off the pegs. This not only invested the sash itself with a high measure of solemn importance, but also rendered the chiefs who wore it most noble in public estimation. On the eve of war also, human victims were invariably offered."

Great injustice has been done to the women of Otaheite, and the Society Isles, by those who have represented them, without exception, as ready to grant the last favour to any man who will come up to their price. But this is by no means the case: the favours of married women, and also the unmarried of the better sort, are as difficult to be obtained here as in any other country whatever. Neither can the charge be understood indiscriminately of the * Mr. Williams, in his "Missionary Enterprises in the South Sea Islands," informs us that "the system of human sacrifices did not prevail at the Navigator's Islands, but at the Hervey Group, and still more at the Tahitian and Society Islands, where it was carried to an extent truly appalling. There was one ceremony called Raumatavehi raa, the feast of restoration,' at which no less than seven human victims were always required. This festival was celebrated after an invading army had driven the inhabitants to the mountains, and had desecrated the morai by cutting down the branches of the sacred trees, and cooking their food with them, and with the wooden altars and decorations of the sacred place. As soon as the retirement of the invaders allowed the refugees to leave their hiding-place, their first object was to celebrate this feast of restoration,' which was supposed to restore the morai to its previous sanctity, and to reinstate the god in his former glory. A few years ago [Mr. Williams wrote in 1837], I sent to England a very sacred relic called maro ura, or the Red Sash. This was a piece of net-work, about seven inches wide and six feet long, upon which the red feathers of the parroquet were neatly fastened. used at the inauguration of their greatest kings, just as the crown is with us; and the most honourable appellation which a chief could receive was Arii maro ura, King of the Red Sash!' A new piece, about eighteen inches in length, was attached at the inauguration of every sovereign; to accomplish which several human victims were required. The first was for the mau raa titi, or the stretching it upon pegs in order to attach to it the new picce. Another

It was

When the priest declared a sacrifice necessary, messengers were despatched by the king to the various chiefs, to collect the requisite number of victims. These emissaries would inquire, on entering his house, whether the chief had a broken calabash, or a rotten cocoa-nut at hand, (terms very well understood,) on which the devoted objects, often long before fixed upon, were pointed out, and instantly knocked down with a small round stone concealed in the hollow of the hand by the messengers, when others rashed in and crushed the skull to pieces by beating it in with stones, after which the body was carried to the morai. If the victim took refuge in a house, he was speared to death from the outside.

As soon as one of a family had been selected, all the other male members of it were looked upon as devoted to the same horrid purpose. It would avail them nothing if they removed to another island, for the reason of their removal would soon be known there, and whenever a sacrifice was required, it would be sought amongst them. A very affecting account of the last human sacrifice offered up in Tahiti, is given in Mr. Williams's interesting and valuable work.-ED.

unmarried of the lower class, for many of these admit of no such familiarities. That there are prostitutes here, as well as in other countries, is very true; perhaps more in proportion, and such were those who came on board the ships to our people, and frequented the post we had on shore. By seeing these mix indiscriminately with those of a different turn, even of the first rank, one is, at first, inclined to think that they are all disposed the same way, and that the only difference is in the price. But the truth is, the woman who becomes a prostitute does not seem, in their opinion, to have committed a crime of so deep a dye as to exclude her from the esteem and society of the community in general. On the whole, a stranger who visits England might with equal justice draw the characters of the women there, from those which he might meet with on board the ships in one of the naval ports, or in the purlieus of Covent Garden and Drury Lane. I must, however, allow that they are all completely versed in the art of coquetry, and that very few of them fix any bounds to their conversation. It is, therefore, no wonder that they have obtained the character of libertines.

To what hath been said of the geography of these isles, in the narrative of my former voyage, I shall now only add that we found the latitude of Oaitipiha Bay, in Otaheite, to be 17° 46′ 28" south, and the longitude 0° 21′ 251⁄4" east from Point Venus; or 149° 13′ 24′′ west from Greenwich. The difference both of latitude and longitude, between Point Venus and Oaitipiha, is greater than I supposed it to be, when I made the circuit of the island in 1769, by two miles and 42 miles respectively. It is, therefore, highly probable that the whole island is of a greater extent than I at that time estimated it to be. The astronomers set up their observatory, and made their observations on Point Venus, the latitude of which they found to be 17° 29′ 13′ south. This differs but two seconds from that which Mr. Green and I found; and its longitude, viz., 149° 34′ 49" west, for anything that is yet known to the contrary, is as exact.

Mr. Kendal's watch was found to be gaining on mean time 8" 163 per day, which is only 0' 142 less than at Queen Charlotte's Sound, consequently its error in longitude was trifling.

BOOK II.

FROM OUR DEPARTURE FROM THE SOCIETY ISLES, TO OUR RETURN TO AND LEAVING THEM THE SECOND TIME.

CHAPTER I.-PASSAGE FROM ULIETEA TO THE FRIENDLY ISLANDS, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE DISCOVERY OF HERVEY'S ISLAND, AND THE INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED AT

MIDDLEBURG.

AFTER leaving Ulietea, as before mentioned, I steered to the west, inclining to the south, to get clear of the tracks of former navigators, and to get into the latitude of the islands of Middleburg and Amsterdam; for I intended to run as far west as these islands, and to touch there if I found it convenient, before I hauled up for New Zealand. I generally lay to every night, lest we might pass any land in the dark. Part of the 21st and 22nd, the wind blew from N.W., attended with thunder, lightning, and rain; having a large swell from S.S.E. and S., which kept up for several days-an indication that no land was near us in that direction. On the 23rd, at ten o'clock in the morning, land was seen from the topmasthead, and at noon from the deck, extending from S. by W. to S.W. by S. We hauled up for it with the wind at S.E., and found it to consist of two or three small islets, connected together by breakers like most of the low isles in the sea, lying in a triangular form, and about six leagues in circuit. They were clothed with wood, among which were many cocoa-nut trees. We saw no people, or signs of inhabitants, and had reason to think there were none. The situation of this isle, which is in the latitude of 19° 18' south, longitude 158° 54' west, is not very different from that assigned by Mr. Dalrymple to La Dezena. But as this is a point not easily determined, I named it Hervey's Island, in honour of the Honourable Captain Hervey of the Navy, one of the Lords of the Admiralty, and now Earl of Bristol.

As the landing on this isle, if practicable, would have caused a delay which I could ill spare at this time, we resumed our course to the west; and on the 25th we again began to use our sea-biscuit, the fruit, which had served as a succedaneum, being all consumed; but our stock of fresh pork still continued, each man having as much every day as was needful. In our route to the west, we now and then saw men-of-war and tropic birds, and a small sea-bird, which is seldom seen but near the shores of the isles; we therefore conjectured that we had passed some land at no great distance. As we advanced to the west, the variation of the compass gradually increased, so that on the 29th, being in the latitude of 21° 26' south, longitude 170° 40' west, it was 10° 45′ east.

At two o'clock, P.M., on the 1st of October, we made the island of Middleburg, bearing W.S.W., at six o'clock it extended from S. W. by W. to N.W., distant four leagues, at which time another land was seen in the direction of N.N.W. The wind being at S.S.E., I hauled to the S., in order to get round the south end of the island before the morning; but at eight o'clock a small island was seen lying off it; and not knowing but they might be connected by a reef, the extent of which we must be ignorant of, I resolved to spend the night where we were. At daybreak the next morning we bore up for the S.W. side of Middleburg, passing between it and the little isle above mentioned, where we found a clear channel two miles broad.

After ranging the S. W. side of the greater isle to about two-thirds of its length, at the distance of half a mile from the shore, without seeing the least prospect of either anchorage or landing-place, we bore away for Amsterdam, which we had in sight. We had scarcely turned our sails before we observed the shores of Middleburg to assume another aspect, seeming to offer both anchorage and landing. Upon this we hauled the wind, and plied in under the island. In the meantime, two canoes, each conducted by two or three men, came boldly alongside; and some of them entered the ship without hesitation. This mark of confidence gave me a good opinion of these islanders, and determined me to visit them if possible. After making a few trips, we found good anchorage, and came to in twenty-five fathoms' water, and gravel bottom, at three cables' length from the shore. The highest land on the island bore S.E. by E., the north point N.E. 1 E., and the west S. by W. W., and 14 the island of Amsterdam extending from N. by W. W. to N.W. W. We had scarcely got to an anchor before we were surrounded by a great number of canoes full of people, who had brought with them cloth, and other curiosities, which they exchanged for nails, &c. Several came on board; among whom was one, who, by the authority he seemed to have over the others, I found was a chief, and accordingly made him a present of a hatchet, spike-nails, and several other articles, with which he was highly pleased. Thus I obtained the friendship of this chief, whose name was Tioony.

2

Soon after, a party of us embarked in two boats, in company with Tioony, who conducted us to a little creek formed by the rocks, right abreast of the ships, where landing was extremely easy, and the boats secure against the surf. Here we found an immense crowd of people, who welcomed us on shore with loud acclamations. Not one of them had so much as a stick, or any other weapon in their hands; an indubitable sign of their pacific intentions. They thronged so thick round the boats with cloth, matting, &c. to exchange for nails, that it was some time before we could get room to land. They seemed to be more desirous to give than receive; for many who could not get near the boats, threw into them, over the others' heads, whole bales of cloth, and then retired, without either asking or waiting to get anything in return. At length the chief caused them to open to the right and left, and make room for us to land. He then conducted us up to his house, which was situated about three hundred yards from the sea, at the head of a fine lawn, and under the shade of some shaddock-trees. The situation was most delightful. In front was the sea and the ships at anchor; behind, and on each side, were plantations, in which were some of the richest productions of nature. The floor was laid with mats, on which we were seated, and the people seated themselves in a circle round us on the outside. Having the bagpipes with us, I ordered them to be played; and, in return, the chief directed three young women to sing a song, which they did with a very good grace; and having made each of them a present, this immediately set all the women in the circle a-singing. Their songs were

musical and harmonious, and nowise harsh or disagreeable. After sitting here some time, we were, at our own request, conducted into one of the adjoining plantations, where the chief had another house, into which we were introduced. Bananas and cocoa-nuts were set before us to eat, and a bowl of liquor prepared in our presence of the juice of eava for us to drink. Pieces of the root were first offered to us to chew; but as we excused ourselves from assisting in the operation, this was performed by others. When sufficiently chewed, it was put into a large wooden bowl, then mixed with water, in the manner already related; and as soon as it was properly strained for drinking, they made cups by folding of green leaves, which held near half a pint, and presented to each of us one of these filled with the liquor. But I was the only one who tasted it; the manner of brewing it having quenched the thirst of every one else. The bowl was, however, soon emptied of its contents, of which both men and women partook. I observed that they never filled the same cup twice; nor did two persons drink out of the same; each had a fresh cup and fresh liquor. This house was situated at one corner of the plantation, and had an area before it, on which we were seated. The whole was planted round with fruit and other trees, whose spreading branches afforded an agreeable shade, and whose fragrance diffused a pleasing odour through the air.

Before we had well viewed the plantation it was noon, and we returned on board to dinner, with the chief in our company. He sat at table, but ate nothing, which, as we had fresh pork roasted, was a little extraordinary. After dinner we landed again, and were received by the crowd as before. Mr. Forster, with his botanical party, and some of the officers and gentlemen, walked into the country. Captain Furneaux and myself were conducted to the chief's house, where fruit and some greens, which had been stewed, were set before us to eat. As we had but just dined, it cannot be supposed we ate much; but Oedidee, and Omai, the man on board the Adventure, did honour to the feast. After this we signified our desire of seeing the country. Tioony very readily assented, and conducted us through several plantations, which were laid out with great judgment, and inclosed with very neat fences made of reeds. They were all in very good order, and well planted with various fruit-trees, roots, &c. The chief took some pains to let us know the most of them belonged to himself. Near some of the houses and in the lanes that divided the plantations were running about some hogs, and very large fowls, which were the only domestic animals we saw; and these they did not seem willing to part with. Nor did any one, during the whole day, offer in exchange any fruit, or roots, worth mentioning; which determined me to leave this island, and to visit that of Amsterdam.

The evening brought every one on board, highly delighted with the country and the very obliging behaviour of the inhabitants, who seemed to vie with each other in doing what they thought would give us pleasure. The ships were crowded with people the whole day, trafficking with those on board, in which the greatest good order was observed; and I was sorry that the season of the year would not admit of my making a longer stay with them. Early the next morning, while the ships were getting under sail, I went ashore with Captain Furneaux and Mr. Forster to take leave of the chief. He met us at the landing-place, and would have conducted us to his house had we not excused ourselves; we therefore were seated on the grass, where we spent about half an hour in the midst of a vast crowd of people. After making the chief a present, consisting of various articles and an assortment of garden seeds, I gave him to understand that we were going away, at which he seemed not at all moved. He, and two or three more, came into our boat, in order to accompany us on board; but seeing the Resolution under sail, he called to a canoe to put alongside, into which he and his friends went, and returned on shore. While he remained in our boat, he continued to exchange fish-hooks for nails, and engrossed the trade in a manner wholly to himself; but when on shore, I never saw him make the least exchange.

EE

CHAPTER II.-THE ARRIVAL OF THE SHIPS AT AMSTERDAM; A DESCRIPTION OF A PLACE OF WORSHIP; AND AN ACCOUNT OF THE INCIDENTS WHICH HAPPENED WHILE THEY REMAINED AT THAT ISLAND.

As soon as I was on board, we made sail down to Amsterdam. The people of this isle were so little afraid of us, that some met us in three canoes about midway between the two isles. They used their utmost efforts to get on board, but without effect, as we did not shorten sail for them, and the rope which we gave them broke. They then attempted to board the Adventure, and met with the same disappointment. We ran along the S.W. coast of Amsterdam at half a mile from shore, on which the sea broke in a great surf. We had an opportunity, by the help of our glasses, to view the face of the island, every part of which seemed to be laid out in plantations. We observed the natives running along the shore, displaying small white flags, which we took for ensigns of peace, and answered them by hoisting a St. George's ensign. Three men belonging to Middleburg, who, by some means or other, had been left on board the Adventure, now left her, and swam to the shore, not knowing that we intended to stop at this isle, and having no inclination, as may be supposed, to go away with us.

As soon as we opened the west side of the isle, we were met by several canoes, each conducted by three or four men. They came boldly alongside, presented us with some eava root, and then came on board without farther ceremony, inviting us, by all the friendly signs they could make, to go to their island, and pointing to the place where we should anchor,at least so we understood them. After a few boards, we anchored in Van Diemen's Road, in eighteen fathoms water, little more than a cable's length from the breakers which line the coast. We carried out the coasting anchor and cable to seaward, to keep the ship from tailing on the rocks, in case of a shift of wind or a calm. This last anchor lay in forty-seven fathoms water, so steep was the bank on which we anchored. By this time we were crowded with people; some came off in canoes, and others swam; but, like those of the other isle, brought nothing with them but cloth, matting, &c., for which the seamen only bartered away their clothes. As it was probable they would soon feel the effects of this kind of traffic, with a view to put a stop to it, and to obtain the necessary refreshments, I gave orders that no sort of curiosities should be purchased by any person whatever.

The good effect of this order was found in the morning; for when the natives saw we would purchase nothing but eatables, they brought off bananas and cocoa-nuts in abundance, some fowls and pigs, all of which they exchanged for small nails and pieces of cloth; even old rags of any sort was enough for a pig or a fowl.

Matters being thus established, and proper persons appointed to trade under the direction of the officers to prevent disputes, after breakfast, I landed, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, Mr. Forster, and several of the officers; having alone with us a chief, or person of some note, whose name was Attago, who had attached himself to me from the first moment of his coming on board, which was before we anchored. I know not how he came to discover that I was the commander; but, certain it is, he was not long on deck before he singled me out from all the other gentlemen, making me a present of some cloth, and other things he had about him; and, as a greater testimony of friendship, we now exchanged names, a custom which is practised at Otaheite and the Society Isles. We were lucky, or rather we may thank the natives, for having anchored before a narrow creek in the rocks which line the shore. To this creek we were conducted by my friend Attago; and there we landed dry on the beach, and within the breakers, in the face of a vast crowd of people, who received us in the same friendly manner that those of Middleburg had done.

As soon as we were landed, all the gentlemen set out into the country, accompanied by some of the natives; but the most of them remained with Captain Furneaux and me, who amused ourselves some time in distributing presents amongst them, especially to such as Attago pointed out, which were not many, but who I afterwards found were of superior rank to himself. At this time, however, he seemed to be the principal person, and to be