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MODERN GREECE.

all are,

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What are the nuisances, special to mer's pay where mendicancy happened Greece, which repel tourists from that to “ be looking downwards.” Even country? They are three ;-robbers, honest labour was tolerated, though, fleas, and dogs. It is remarkable that of course, disgraceful. But the Co

in one sense, respectable nui- rinthian order of society, to borrow sances--they are ancient, and of clas. Burke's image, was the bold sea-rover, sical descent. The monuments still the bucanier, or (if you will call him existing from pre-Christian ages, in so) the robber in all his varieties. memory of honest travellers assassina- Titles were, at that time, not much in ted by brigands or klephts, (KETT.,) use—honorary titles, we mean ; but show that the old respectable calling had our prefix ofRight Honourable" of freebooters by sea and land, which existed, it would have been assigned Thucydides, in a well-known passage, to burglars, and by no means to privy. describes as so reputable an invest- councillors ; as, again, our English ment for capital during the times pre, prefix of “ Venerable" would have ceding his own, and, as to northern been settled, not on so sheepish a chaGreece, even during his own, had racter as the archdeacon, but on the never entirely languished, as with us spirited appropriator of church plate. it has done, for two generations, on We were surprised lately to find, in a the heaths of Bagshot, Hounslow, or German work of some authority, so Finchley. Well situated as these gross a misconception of Thucydides grounds were for doing business, ly- as that of supposing him

to be in jest. ing at such convenient distances from Nothing of the sort. The question the metropolis, and studying the colle which he represents as once current, venience of all parties, (since, if a man on speaking a ship in the Mediterrawere destined to lose a burden on his nean,-“ Pray, gentlemen, are you road, surely it was pleasing to his feel. robbers ?” actually occurs in Homer; ings that he had not been suffered to and to Homer, no doubt, the historian act as porter over ninety or a hundred alludes. It peither was, nor could be miles, in the service of one who would conceived, as other than complimentneither pay him nor thank him ;) yet, ary; for the alternative supposition finally, what through banks and what presumed him that mean and wellthrough policemen, the concern has known character- the merchant, who dwindled to nothing. In England, basely paid for what he took. We believe, this concern was techni plainly asking - Are you a knight cally known, amongst men of business grand-cross of some martial order, or and “ family men,” as the “ Low a sort of costermonger? And we give Toby.” In Greece it was called it as no hasty or funciful opinion, that anotard ; and, Homerically speaking, it the South Sea islands (which Bouwas perhaps the only profession tho gainville held to be in a state of conroughly respectable. A few other siderable civilization) had, in fact, callings are mentioned in the Odyssey reached the precise stage of Homeric as furnishing regular bread to decent Greece. The power of levying war, men,-viz. the doctor's, the fortune. as yet not sequestered by the ruling teller's or conjurer's, and the ar power of each community, was a pri

. mourer's. Indeed it is clear, from vate right inherent in every individual the offer made to Ulysses of a job in of any one state against all individuals the way of hedgin r and ditching, that of any other. Captain Cook's ship sturdy big-boned beggars, or what the Resolution, and her consort the used to be called " Abraham men'in Adventure, were as much indepensouthern England, were not held to dent states and objects of lawful war have forfeited any heraldic dignity to the islanders, as Owyhee in the attached to the rank of pauper, (which Sandwich group was to Tongataboo in was considerable,) by taking a far the Friendly group. So that to have

It was

« Journal of a Tour in Greece and the Ionian Islands." By William Mure of Cald. well. In Two Volumes. 1842.

taken an Old Bailey view of the thefts cal chimæra, so for a different reason committed was unjust, and, besides, it has been with regard to Italy, and ineffectual; the true remedy being by soon will be for Greece. Twenty way of treaty or convention with the

years ago it was a fine subject for jestchiefs of every island. And perhaps, ing—the English idea of stilettos in if Homer had tried it, the same re Rome, and masqued bravos, and as: medy (in effect, regular payments of sassins who charged so much an inch black-mail) might have been found for the depth of their wounds. But available in his day.

all the laughter did not save a youthIt is too late to suggest that idea ful English marriage party from being now. The princely pirates are gone; atrociously massacred ; a grave Engand the last dividend has been paid lish professional man wiih his wife upon their booty; so that, whether he from being carried off to a mountaingained or lost by them, Homer's es ous captivity, and reserved from tate is not liable to any future inqni- slaughter only by the prospect of ransitions from commissioners of bank som ; a British nobleman's son from ruptcy or other sharks. He, whether death or the consequences of Italian amongst the plundered, or, as is more barbarity; or a prince, the brother of probable, a considerable shareholder Napoleon, from having the security of in the joint-stock privateers from Te his mansion violated, and the most nedos, &c., is safe both from further valuable captives carried off by dayfunding and refunding. We are not. light from his biousehold. In Greece And the first question of moment to apparently the state of things is worse, any future tourist is, what may be the because absolutel, worse under a far present value, at a British insurance slighter temptation. But Mr Mure is office, of any given ife risked upon a of opinion that Greek robbers have tour in Greece ? Much will, of course, private reasons as yet for sparing depend upon the extent and the par- English tourists. ticular route. A late prime minister So far then is certain : viz, that the of Greece, under the reigning king positive danger is greater in poverty. Otho, actually perished by means of stricken Greece than in rich and splenone day's pleasure excursion from did Italy. But as to the valuation of Athens, though meeting neither thief the danger, it is probably as yet imnor robber. He lost his way: and perfect from mere defect of experithis being scandalons in an ex-chan ence: the total amount of travellers cellor of the exchequer having ladies is unknown. And it may be aryned under his guidance, who were obliged, that at least Colonel Leake, Mr Dodlike those in the Midsummer Night's well, and our present Mr Mure, with Dream, to pass the night in an Athe as many more as have written books, nian wood, his excellency died of vex cannot be among the killed, wounded, ation. Where may not men find a or missing. There is evidence in ocdeath? But we ask after the calcu. tavo that they are yet “ to the fore." lition of any office which takes extra Sii'l with respect to books, after all, risks: and, as a basis for such a calm they may have been posthumous cularion, we submit the range of tour works : or, to put the case in another sketched by Pausanias, more than six form, who knows how many excellent teen centuries back-That IlavoviaUn works in medium quarto, not less than wegrodos, as Colorel Leake describes crown octavo, may have been sup. it, wbich carries a man through the pressed and intercepted in their rudiheart of all that can chiefly interest in ments by these expurgatorial ruffians ? Greece. What are the chances upon

Mr Mure mentions as the exquisite such a compass of Greek travelling, reason for the present fashion of shoothaving only the ordinary escort and ing from an ambush first, and settling arms, or having no arms, (which the accounts afterwards, tl at bị this means learned agree in thinking the safer they evade the chances of a contest. plan at present) that a given travel The Greek robber, it seems, knows ler will revisit the glimpses of an Eng

as well as Cicero that “non sen per lish moon, or again embrace his pla. viator a latrone, nonnunquam etiam cens uxor?As with regard to Ire- litro a viatore occiditur”-a disapland, it is one stock trick of Whiggery pointment that makes one laugh exto treat the chances of assassination in ceedingly. Now this rule as to armed the light of an English hypochondria travellers is likely to bear hard upon

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our countrymen, who being rich, (else wards amelioration of things for how come they in Greece ?) will surely Greece, which lies in summary ejectbe brilliantly armed; and thus again ing of the Bavarian locusts.

Where it may be said, in a sense somewhat all offices of profit or honour are endifferent from Juvenal's

grossed by needy aliens, you cannot

expect a cheerful temper in the people. Et vacuus cantat coram latrone viator ; And, unhappily, from moody discon

tent in Greece to the taking of purses Vacuus not of money, but of pistols. is a short transition. Yet on the other hand, though possi

Thus have we disposed of “ St bly sound law for the thickets of Nicholas's Clerks.” Next we come Mount Çithæron, this would be too to Fleas and Digs :-Have we unsafe a policy as a general rule : too remedy for these ? We have : but, often it is the exposure of a helpless as to fleas, applicable or not, according exterior which first suggests the out to the purpose with which a man rage. And perhaps the best sugges, travels. If, as happened at times to tion for the present would be, that Mr Mure, a natural, and, for his readtravellers should carry in their hands ers, a beneficial anxiety to see somean apparent telescope or a reputed thing of domestic habits, overcomes all walking.cane ; which peaceful and sense of personal inconvenience, he natural part of his appointinents will

will wish, at any cost, to sleep in first operate to draw out his lurking Grecian bedrooms, and to sit by forest.friend from his advantage ; and

Grecian hearths. On the other hand, on closer colloquy, if this friend should though sensible of the honour attached turn restive, then the " Tuscan artist's to being bit by a flea lineally descendtube," contrived of course a double ed from an Athenian flea, that in one debt to pay, will suddenly reveal an day may possibly have bit three such other sort of tube, insinuating an ar men as Pericles, Phidias, and Eurigument sufficient for the refutation of pides, many quiet unambitious travel. any sophism whatever. This is the lers might choose to dispense with best compromise which we can put ( glory,” and content themselves with forward with the present dilemma in the view of Greek external nature. To Greece, where it seems that to be these, persons we would recommend armed or to be unarmed is almost the plan of carrying amongst their equally perilous. But our secret baggage a tent, with portable campopinion is, that in all countries alike, beds : one of those, as originally inthe only absolute safeguard against vented upon the encouragement of the highway robbery is-ä railway : for Peninsular campaigns from 1809 to then tue tables are turned ; ņot he 1814, and subsequently improved, who is stopped incurs the risk, but he would meet all ordinary wants. It is who stops :

we question whether objected, indeed, that by this time the Samson himself could have pulled up

Grecian fleas must have colonized the his namesake on the Liverpool rail very hills and woods: as once, we reway. Recently, indeed, in the Court member, upon Westminster Bridge, of Common Pleas, on a motion to to a person who proposed bathing in show cause by Sergeant Bompas, in the Thames by way of a ready abluHewitt v. Price, Tindal (Chief-Jus tion from the July dust, apother re: tice) said—“ We cannot call a railway plied, “ My dear sir, by no means ; a public* security, I think,(laugh the river itself is dusty. Consider ter :) but we think otherwise. In spite what it is to have received the dust of of " laughter," we consider it a speci. London for nineteen hundred years fic against the Low Toby. And, en since Cæsar's invasion.” But in any attendant, there is but one step to case the water-cups, in which the bed.

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* Chief-Justice squinted probably at the Versailles affair, where parties were incine. rated ; for which, in Yorkshire, there is a local word-crozelled, applied to those who lie down upon a treacherous lime-pit, whose crust gives way to their weight. But if he meant security in the sense of the public funds, Chief Justice was still more in error, as he will soon learn. For the British Railways now yield a regular income of three milions per annum--one tenth of the interest of the national debt; offer as steady an investment as the 3 per cent Consols, and will soon be quoted in other securities.

posts rest, forbid the transit of crea lucky hit in the dungeon, then walktures not able to swim or to fý. A ed off to report his little exploit to his flea indeed, leaps ; and, by all report, cousin at the hotel. But what followin a way that far beats a tiger-taking ed? The wretches in the house, who the standard of measurement from the never cared to show themselves so bodies of the competitors. But even Jong as it might only be the dog killthis may be remedied: giving the ing a boy, all came tumbling out by maximum leap of a normal flea, it is crowds when it became clear that a boy always easy to raise the bed indefi- had killed the dog. " A la lanterne !". nitely from the ground-space up- they yelled out; valiantly charged en wards is unlimited-and the support musse : and amongst them they maners of ihe bed may be made to meet aged to kill the boy. But there was in one pillar, coated with so viscous a a reckoning to pay for this. Had substance as to put even a flea into they known who it was that sat chancery,

drinking at the hotel, they would have As to dogs, the case is not so easily thought twice before they backed settled; and before the reader is in a their brute. That cousin, whom the condition to judge of our remedy, he poor boy had left at his wine, hapought to know the evil in its whole pened to be an ugly customer-Herextent. After all allowances for ver cules incog. It is needless to specify min that waken you before

your time, the result. The child unborn had or assassins that send you to sleep be reason to rue the murder of the boy. fore your time, no single Greek nui For his cousin proved quite as deaf to sance can be placed on the same scale all argument or submission as their with the dogs attached to every ménage, own foul thief of a dog or themselves. whether household or pastoral. Sure Suffice it—that the royal house of ly, as a stranger approaches to any Mycenæ, in the language of Napoleon's inhospitable door of the peasantry, edicts, ceased to reign. But bere is often before he knows of such a door the evil; few men leave a Hercules as in rerum naturâ, out bounds upon at their hotel ; and all will have to him by huge careering leaps a horrid stand the vindictive fury of the natives infuriated ruffian of a dog—oftentimes for their canine friends, if you should a huge moluss, big as an English cow pistol them. Be it in deliverance of -active as a leopard, fierce as your own life, or even of a lady's by hyena. but more powerful by much, your side, no apology will be listened and quite as little disposed to hear to. In fact, besides the disproporreason. So situated-seeing an enemy tionate annoyance to a traveller's in motion with whom it would be as nerves, that he shall be kept uneasy idle to negotiate as with an earth at every turn of the road in mere anquake—what is the bravest man to xiety as to the next recurrence of do ? Shoot him ? Ay ; that was struggles so desperate, it arms the inpretty much the course taken by a dignation of a bold Briton beforehand young man who lived before Troy; —that a horrid brute shall be thought and see what came of it.

entitled to kill him, and if he does, it in fact a boy of seventeen, had walk- is pronounced an accident: but if he, ed out to see the city of Mycenæ, a son of the mighty island, kills the leaving his elder consin at the hotel brute, instantly a little hybrid Greek sipping his wine. Out sprang a huge peasant shall treat it as murder. dog from the principal house in what Many years ago, we experienced you might call the High Street of the selfsame annoyance in the north Mycenæ ; the

young

man's heart be of England. Let no man talk of courgan to palpitate; he was in that state age in such cases. Most justly did of excitement which affects most Maréchal Saxe ask an officer sneerpeople when fear mingles with exces- ingly, who protested that he had never sive anger.

What was he to do? known the sensation of fear, and could Pistols he had none. And, as nobody not well imagine what it was like, had came out to his aid, he put his hand he ever snuffed a candle with his finto the ground ; seized a chermadion, gers? " because in that case,” said (or paving-stone,) smashed the skull the veteran, “I fancy you must have of the odious brute, and with quite as felt afraid of burning your thumb. much merit as Count Robert of Paris A brave man, on a service of known was entitled to have claimed from his danger, braces up his mind by a dis.

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tinct effort to the necessities of his The scene lay in Westmoreland and duty. The great sentiment that it is Cumberland. Often times it would his duty, the sentiments of honour happen that in summer we had turned and of country, reconcile him to the aside from the road, or perhaps the service whilst it lasts. No use, besides, road itself forced us to pass a farm. in ducking before shot, or dodging, house from which the family might be or skulking ; he that faces the storm absent in the hay-field. Unhappily most cheerfully, has after all the best the dogs in such a case are often left chance of escaping-were that the behind. And many have been the object of consideration. But, as soon fierce contests in which we have emas this trial is over, and the energy barked; for, as to retreating, be it called forth by a high tension of known that there (as in Greece) the duty has relaxed, the very same man murderous savages will pursue you often shrinks from ordinary trials of sometimes far into the high-road. his prowess. Having, perhaps, little That result it was which uniformly reason for confidence in his own bronght us back to a sense of our own bodily strength, seeing no honour in wrongs, and finally—of our rights. the struggle, and sure that no duty" Come," we used to say, or this is too would be hallowed by any result, he much; here at least is the king's bighshrinks from it in a way which sur- way, and things are come to a pretty prises those who have heard of his pass indeed, if we, who partake of a martial character. Brave men in ex common nature with the king, and tremities are many times the most write good Latin, whereas all the nervous, and the shyest under perils world knows what sort of Latin is of a mean order. We, without claim- found among dogs, may not have as ing the benefit of these particular dis- good a right to standing-room as a tinctions, happened to be specially low-bred quadruped with a tail like "soft" on this one danger from dogs. you.". Non usque adeo summis perNot from the mere terror of a bite, miscuit ima longa dies, &c. but for the shocking doubt besieging member no instance which ever so such a case for four or five months that powerfully, illustrated the courage hydrophobia may supervene. Think, given by the consciousness of rectiexcellent reader, if we should sudden- tude. So long as we felt that we ly prove hydrophobous in the middle were trespassing on the grounds of a of this paper, how could you distin- stranger, we certainly sneaked, we guish the hydrophobous from the non seek not to deny it. But once landed hydrophobous part? You would say, on the high-road, where we knew our as Voltaire of Rousseau, sa plume own title to be as good as the dog's, apparemment brûlera le papier."- not all the world should have perSuch being the horror ever before suaded us to budge one foot. our mind, images of eyeballs stariing Our reason for going back to these from their sockets, spasms suffocating old Cumbrian remembrances will be the throat-we could not see a dog found in what follows. Deeply instarting off into a yell of surlden dis- censed at the insults we had been covery bound for the foot of our legs, obliged to put up with for years, but that undoubtedly a mixed sensa. bruoding oftentimes over tion of panic and fury overshadowed

“ Wrongs unredress’d, and insults un. us; a regrecedcov was not always at

avenged,” hand; and without practice we could have little confidence in our power of

we asked ourselves — Is vengeance sending it home, else many is the hopeless? And at length we hit upon head we should have crushed. Some the following scheme of retribution. times, where more than one dog hap- This it is which we propose as applipened to be accomplices in the out cable to Greece.

Weil acquainted rage, we were not altogether out of with the indumitable spirit of ihe bull. danger, “ Euripides,” we said, “ was dog, and the fidelity of the mastiff, we really torn to pieces by the dogs of a determined to obtain two such compasovereign prince; in Hounslow, but nions; to re-traverse our old ground; a month since, a little girl was all but to make a point of visiting every worried by the buck hounds of a house where we had been grossly ingreater sovereign than Archelaus; and sulted by dogs; and to commit our why not we by the dogs of a farmer?” cause to the management of these new

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