occafioned its diminution is probably much beyond the reach of any history or tradition. It has often been obferved, notwithstanding the very great distance of mount Etna, that this ifland has generally been more or lefs affected by its eruptions; and they think it probabie, that on fome of these occafions a part of it may have been haken into the fea. We have now an opportunity of obferving, that one half of mount Etna, is clearly difcovered from Malta. They reckon the distance near 200 Italian miles. And the people here affure us, that in the great eruptions of that mountain, their whole inland is illuminated; and from the reflection in the water, there appears a great tract of fire in the fea all the way from Malta to Sicily. The thundering of the mountain is likewife diftinctly heard. June 7. We made an expedition through the island in coaches drawn by one mule each; the only kind of vehicle the place affords. Our conductors could speak nothing but Arabic, which is still the language. of the common people of Malta: fo that you may believe we did not reap much benefit from their converfation. We went first to the ancient city of Melita, which is near the center of the island, and commands a view of the whole; and in clear weather, they pretend, of part of Barbary and of Sicily. The city is strongly fortified, and is governed by an officer called the Hanhem. He received us very politely, and fhewed us the old palace, which is not indeed much worth the feeing. The cathedral is a very fine church; and although of an exceeding large fize, is at prefent entirely hung with crimson damafk, richly laced with gold. The catacombs, not far from this city, are a great work. They are faid to extend for fifteen miles under ground; however, this you are obliged to take on the credit of your guides; as it would rather be rifking too much to put it to the trial. Many people, they affure us, have been loft from advancing too far in them; the prodigious number of branches making it next to impoffible to find the way out again. We were delighted, on our way back to the city, with the beauty of the fetting fun; much fuperior, I think, to what I have ever obferved it in Italy. The whole of the eastern part of the heavens, for half an hour after fun-fet, was of a fine deep purple, and made a beautiful appearance: this the Maltefe tell us is generally the cafe every evening, at this feafon of the year. The land force of Malta is equal to the number of men in the island fit to bear arms. They have about 500 regulars belonging to the fhips of war; and 150 compofe the guard of the prince. The two islands of Malta and Gozzo contain about 150,000 inhabitants, The men are exceedingly robust and hardy. I have feen them row. for ten or twelve hours without intermiffion, and without even ap. pearing to be fatigued. Their fea force confifts of four galleys, three galliots, four fhips, of fixty guns, and a frigate of thirty-fix, befides a number of the quick-failing little veffels called Scampavias (literally, Runaways.) Their fhips, galleys, and fortifications, are not only well fupplied with excellent artillery, but they have likewife invented a kind of ordnance of their own, unknown to all the world befides. For we found, to our no fmall amazement, that the rocks were not only cut into fortifications, but likewife into artillery to defend thefe fortifications; being hollowed out in many places into the form of immenfe mortars. The charge is faid to be about a barrel of gunpowder, over which they place a large piece of wood made exactly to fit the mouth of the chamber. On this they heap a great quantity of cannon-balls, fhells, or other deadly materials; and when an enemy's fhip approaches the harbour, they fire the whole into the air; and they pretend it produces a very great effect, making a shower for two or three hundred yards round, that would fink any veffel. Notwithstanding the fuppofed bigotry of the Maltefe, the fpirit of toleration is fo ftrong, that a mofque has lately been built for their fworn enemies the Turks. Here the poor flaves are allowed to enjoy their religion in peace. It happened lately, that fome idle boys difturbed them during their fervice; they were immediately fent to prifon, and feverely punished. The police indeed is much better regulated than in the neighbouring countries, and affaffinations and robberies are very uncommon; the laft of which crimes the grand mafter punishes with the utmoft feverity. But he is faid, perhaps in compliance with the prejudice of his nation, to be much more relax with regard to the firft. Perhaps Malta is the only coun try in the world where duelling is permitted by law. As their whole eftablishment is originally founded on the wild and romantic principles of chivalry, they have ever found it too inconfiftent with thefe principles to abolish duelling; but they have laid it under fuch reftrictions as greatly to reduce its danger. These are curious enough.The duellifts are obliged to decide their quarrel in one particular street of the city; and if they prefume to fight any where elfe, they are liable to the rigour of the law. But what is not lefs fingular, and much more in their favour, they are obliged, under the moft fevere penalties, to put up their fword, when ordered fo to do, by a woman, a priest, or a knight. Under thefe limitations, in the midst of a great city, one would imagine it almoft impoffible that a duel could ever end in blood; however, this is not the cafe :-A croís is always painted on the wall oppofite to the fpot where a knight has been killed, in commemoration of his fall. We counted about twenty of these croffes. About three months ago, two knights had a difpute at a billiardtable. One of them, after giving a great deal of abufive language, added a blow; but to the aftonithment of all Malta (in whofe annals there is not a fimilar inftance), after fo great a provocation, he abfolutely refufed to fight his antago nit. The challenge was repeated, and he had time to reflect on the confequences, but ftill he refused to enter the lifts. He was condemned to make amende honorable in the great church of St. John for forty-five days fucceffively; then to be confined in a dungeon with out out light for five years, after which he is to remain a prifoner in the caftle for life. The unfortunate young man who received the blow, is likewife in difgrace, as he has not had an opportunity of wiping it out in the blood of his adverfary. This has been looked upon as a very fingular affair, and is till one of the principal topics of converfation. The first part of the fentence has already been executed, and the poor wretch is now in his dungeon. Nor is it thought, that any abatement will be made in what remains. The Maltese still talk with horror of a storm that happened here on the 29th of Oct. 1757, which as it was of a very fingular nature, I shall translate you fome account of it from a little book they have given me, written on that subject. About three quarters of an hour after midnight, there appeared to the fouth-west of the city a great black cloud, which, as it approached, changed its colour, till at last it became like a flame of fire, mixed with black fmoak. A dreadful noife was heard on its approach, that alarmed the whole city. It paffed over part of the port, and came firft upon an English ship, which in an inftant was torn to pieces, and nothing left but the hulk; part of the maft, fails and Cordage, were carried along with the cloud to a confiderable diftance. The fall boats and felloques that fell in its way, were all broken to pieces, and funk. The noife increafed and became more frightful. A fentinel, terrified at its approach, run into his box: both he and it were lifted up and carried into the fea, where he pe 191 rished. fiderable part of the city, and laid It then traverfed a conin ruins almost every thing that dared to oppofe it. Several houfes and it did not leave one steeple in were laid level with the ground, its paffage. The bells of some of them, together with the fpires, were carried to a confiderable diftance. The roofs of the churches which, if it had happened in the were demolished and beat down, day-time, must have occafioned a dreadful carnage, as all the world would immediately have run to the churches. It went off at the north-eaft point of the city; and demolishing the light-houfe, is faid to have mounted up in the air, with a frightful noife; and paffed over the trees, and did other damage, but fea to Sicily, where it tore up fome nothing confiderable; as its fury had been mostly fpent upon Malta. The number of killed and wounded amounted to near 200; and the lofs of shipping, houses, and churches, was very confiderable. ten to account for this fingular Several treatifes have been writphænomenon, but I have found nothing at all fatisfactory. The fentiments of the people are concife and pofitive. They declare, with devils let loofe to punish them for one voice, that it was a legion of their fins. There are a thousand people in Malta that will take their oath they faw them within the cloud, all as black as pitch, and breathing out fire and brimstone. They add, that if there had not been a few godly people amongst them, their whole city would ceruniverfal destruction. tainly have been involved in one Rebuke Rebuke to an English Gentleman, by flowed. The fugar-cane was for I a Sicilian Nobleman. Know of nothing that gives one a worfe opinion of a man, than to fee him make a fhew and parade of his contempt for things held facred: it is an open infult to the judgment of the public.-A countryman of ours, about two years ago, offended egregiously in this article, and the people ftill fpeak of him both with contempt and detestation. It happened one day, in the great church, during the elevation of the hoft, when every body else were on their knees, that he ftill kept ftanding, without any appearance of refpect to the ceremony. A young nobleman that was near him, expreffed his furprize at this. "It is ftrange, Sir, (faid he) that you, who "have had the education of a gentleman, and ought to have the fentiments of one, fhould chufe "thus to give fo very public of "" fence." "" Why, Sir (faid the Englishman) I don't believe in tranfubftantiation."-"Neither "do I, Sir, (replied the other) and 66 yet you fee 1 kneel.” merly very much cultivated in this ifland, but the duties impofed were fo enormous, that it has been almoft totally abandoned. But their crops of wheat alone, were they under a free government, would foon be fufficient to render this lit tle nation one of the richest and moft flourishing in the world; for even in the wretched ftate of culti vation it is in at prefent, one good crop, I am told, is fufficient to maintain the island for seven years. You will be a good deal furprized, after this, to hear that the exportation of this commodity has been abfolutely prohibited for these feveral years paft; at leaft to all fuch as are not able to pay most exorbitantly for that privilege. The confequence is, that corn has become a perfect drug. The common price of the falma, which is two loads, was about thirty-one fhillings; at prefent it is reduced to five fhillings and fix-pence, and there is a probability that it will ftill fall lower. This crop, which has been very abundant, I am told, in many places they have hardly been at the pains to gather in, as there is little probability of this cruel, prohibition being removed. The farmers are already ruined, and the ruin of their mafters muft inevitably follow. This is the method the miniftry of Naples, or rather that of Spain, has taken to humble the pride of the Sicilian barons, whofe power they pretend is ftill very extenfive, and their jurifdiction abfolute; moft of them poffeffing a right of life and death in their own domain. However, there is a probability that they will foon be obliged to relinquish their privileges. leges.The complaint is very univerfal, and if the miniftry perfevere in these rigorous measures, there must either be a revolt, or they muit foon be reduced to a state of poverty as well as fervitude. I believe indeed most of them would readily embrace any plaufible fcheme, to shake off their yoke; as in general they appear to be people of great fenfibility, with high notions of honour and liberty. Talking of the natural riches of their island, - Yes, fay they, if thefe were displayed, you would have reafon indeed to fpeak of them. Take a look of thefe mountains, they contain rich veins of every metal, and many of the Ro. man mines fill remain; but to what end fhould we explore them? It is not we that fhould reap the profit? - Nay, a difcovery of any thing very rich, might poffibly prove the ruin of its poffeffor.No-In our prefent fituation, the hidden treasures of the island must ever remain a profound fecret. Were we happy enough to enjoy the blefings of your conftitution, you might call us rich indeed. Many hidden doors of opulence would then be opened, which now are not even thought of, and we fhould foon re-affume our ancient name and confequence; but at prefent we are nothing. This is the language that fome of the first people amongst them hold with us. However, they ftill boat that they retain more of the feudal government thau any nation in Europe. The fhadow indeed remains, but the fubftance is gone long ago.-It has long been the object of the Bourbon ministry, to reduce the power of the barons in every kingdom. Richlieu began the fyltem in France, and it has ever fince been profecuted by his fucceffors; its influence has now fpread over the whole of their poffeffions in Europe; of which, as this is the most remote, it has likewife been the longest in reaching it. Of the Italian Language; by the late Earl of Corke and Orrery. Have feen the famous library of manufcripts, Libreria Laurenziana *. It is a large, and I be lieve a moit rare and well chofen collection. The benefactors formerly have been many; of late years very few. The variety of bibles, at least by their number, may be called valuable. I dare fay, you have feen a copy of the Virgilt, in England. Here you would fee an original Livy, finely preferved, and finely written. The proportion of the room ftrikes. every eye. It is the architecture of Michael Angelo. A modern Ita This library belongs to the convent of St. Laurence, and was partly collected by Lorenzo de Medici; and partly by Pope Clement VII. and the Great Duke Cofmo I. It is faid to contain 14,800 manu.cripts. tThis, the moft curious manufcript in the library, is fuppofed to have been written in the fifth century. It wants the Ille ego qui quondam, &c. and the twenty-two lines in the 2d. Æneid, which relate the interview of Eneas and Helen, and which, Mr. Addifon thinks, were very judiciously expunged by Tucca and Varius. VOL. XVI. lian |