turbed asylum. The approach to the landing-place at the isthmus which unites Garvailon with Akilly, corresponds in grandeur with the columnar range. At the point at which this terminates, opens a small bay, formed by rocks equally elevated, and of a colour approaching to jet black, contracting gradually in its breadth, till it terminates in an arch perforating the rock, according to Dr. Macculloch's measurement, about 40 or 50 feet broad, and as much in height at the entrance, and, apparently, exceeding in length 100 feet. The gloomy horrors of this passage can be explored only when the water is perfectly smooth, a very rare occurrence. Emerging from its dark recesses, we landed on the shingly beach of the isthmus. The Isle of Wurrey, the third in the group, rises to the westward of Garvailon, and to northward of its consort Akilly, separated by a broad sound. The shore of Akilly presents a striking contrast to the precipitous cliffs of Garvailon protected from the northern blasts by that island it yields à considerable crop of good hay; we found a large party of men and women busily employed in gathering it in. The animating scene was exhilarated by the rays of a brilliant sun, and the industry of the workmen was stimulated by their eagerness to quit the island, as during their stay they have no better lodging than that afforded by a single cottage and an adjoining shed, the women occupying the former, and the farmer and his men the latter. The cottage is the residence of a shepherd and his family during the summer months, but they were preparing for departure, and no consideration could induce them to remain longer. Many of the sheep are lost, probably offering an irresistible temptation to the crews of vessels passing. The ruins of a small house are pointed out, said to have been originally a chapel, dedicated to the Virgin, and which gives its name to the island, the Island of the Cell. It may probably have been the residence of a hermit, and may have been held in veneration by the mariners who frequented or passed the islands. ENNAN-DOWAN CASTLE, ROSS-CHIRE. LONDON Published by JOHN WILLIAM PARKER, WEST STRAND; and sold by all Booksellers UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE COMMITTEE OF GENERAL LITERATURE AND EDUCATION APPOINTED BY THE SOCIETY FOR PROMOTING CHRISTIAN KNOWLEDGE. ་ PRICE ONE PENNY. JOHN W PARKER, Printed, West Strand, Lenden THE TOWN HOUSE AT ULM. ULM is a city of Germany, at present included within the territory of the kingdom of Wirtemberg. It is seated on the left bank of the Danube, at the place of its confluence with the Iller and Blau; there, however, that celebrated stream is of comparatively trifling width. It was formerly a free city of the German empire; but in 1802 it was made over to Bavaria, and again in 1810, transferred to the king of Wirtemberg, under whose dominion it still remains. Of late years, it has considerably declined, its population, which in 1808 was 14,000, being now estimated at between eleven and twelve thousand; but nevertheless it is the second city in the territory of Wirtemberg, both as regards the number of its inhabitants, and the importance of its trade and manufactures. The appearance of this place is rather antique; many of the houses being topped with those huge steep roofs, which rise pretty nearly as high above the main walls, as the walls themselves rise above the ground. The Town-house, shown in the engraving of the preceding page, is a specimen of this style of architecture. At the head of the public edifices of Ulm, is the Cathedral or Münster,- a building" says Malte Brun, that cannot be too highly commended, on account of its proportions, and rich Gothic architecture." It was begun in the fourteenth century, the foundation being laid in the year 1377, but a period of 111 years was required to bring it to its present state, which even now is not a state of completion; for the steeple remains to this day unfinished. The Rev. Dr. Dibdin classes this cathedral "among the most respectable of those upon the Continent:" he remarks that its appearance is peculiarly English-like, as he calls it, a resemblance to which the character of the bold buttresses much contributes. The edifice is large in its dimensions, and the style of its architecture is of a massive and imposing kind. Its internal appearance is noble, well corresponding indeed, with the aspect of its exterior; but within a recent period, it has been subjected to a barbarous process, which we can easily conceive to have much impaired its solemnity, and grandeur of effeet. Not many years ago, the walls of the inside were whitewashed; the learned traveller already quoted, visited it shortly afterwards, and he laments with a proper feeling, the "fine mellow tints of five centuries," which had been so rudely wiped away, to make room for the more glaring substitute of modern improvement. The choir possesses some objects of interest; the altar being decorated with a series of oil-paintings upon wood, emblazoned with gilt backgrounds. The subjects of these, are taken from Scripture; and the pictures themselves are so arranged, as to turn upon hinges, and shut up. It The tower of this cathedral is, perhaps, the chief attraction of its exterior; and were it finished, would scarcely be surpassed by any other in existence. is a very beautiful piece of architecture, exhibiting a remarkable degree of light airy elegance, combined with sufficient strength, and firmness. Its summit affords the visiter an interesting view of the town and its vicinity; and should it so happen that he is a true antiquary, he will, according to the testimony of one of his class, meet with a rich treat there. "We paused a minute" says Dr. Dibdin, after giving an account of his ascent, "to recover our breath, and to look at the prospect which surrounded opposite side flowed the Danube: not broad, nor, as I learnt, very deep; but rapid, and in a serpentine direction. The river here begins to be navigable for larger boats; but there is little appearance of bustle or business upon the quays. Few or no white sails floating down the stream, catch the morning or the evening sun-beam: no grove of masts; no shouts of mariners; no commercial rivalry. "Do you observe here, gentlemen?' said our guide, pointing to the coping of the parapet wall, where the stone is a little rubbed ;'—' I do,' (replied I,) 'What may this mean?' 'Look below, Sir,' resumed he, 'how fearfully deep it is; you would not like to tumble down from hence.' This remark could admit but of one answer, in the negative; yet the man seemed to be preparing himself to announce some marvellous fact, and I continued mute. 'Mark well, gentlemen,' (continued he,) it was here, on this identical spot, that our famous Emperor Maximilian stood upon one leg, and turned himself quite round, to the astonishment and trepidation of his attendants! He was a man of great bravery, and this was one of his pranks to show his courage.' We confessed that we should not like to exhibit the same proof of our bravery, and wondered how his majesty could have escaped being dashed to atoms. The guide continued:- This story, gentlemen, has descended to us for three centuries; and not long ago, the example of the emperor was attempted to be imitated by two officers, one of whom failed and the other succeeded. The first lost his balance, and was precipitated to the earth, dying the very instant he touched the ground; the second succeeded, and declared himself, in consequence, Maximilian the Second!" Next to the cathedral the most important building of Ulm is the Rath-Haus, or Town-House, a view of which is given in our Engraving. It is a very good specimen of the high-roofed style, so common in the towns of Germany and the Low Countries, and its origin may be referred to the same age as that of the cathedral. The other public buildings of Ulm are neither numerous nor worthy of much notice; the principal of them are the arsenal and the library. The manufactures of Ulm are not very extensive at present, neither is its trade carried to any great extent. Its principal manufacture is that of linen, but this is not now of such magnitude as it formerly used to be; nevertheless, although the city may have declined in these respects, it still possesses a claim, and some will think no unimportant one, to distinction. "The pastry, known by the name of Ulm bread," says Malte-Brun, " its asparagus, and the snails fattened in the vicinity, are duly appreciated by gourmands. Could it be believed, that more than four millions of these animals are annually exported?" To an Englishman's ear, the fact certainly sounds rather strange. The city of Ulm is not wholly without attraction in an historical point of view. Setting aside the interest which attaches to it in consequence of its share in many of the domestic troubles of Germany, and also in consequence of its connexion with some of the exploits of our own famous Marlborough, it is worthy of attention as having been, in more modern times, the scene of an event of the highest importance, and one which, for a while at least, materially influenced the destinies of Europe. We allude to the celebrated capitulation which obtains its name from this city, and which took place in 1805. It was in that year, as our readers will recollect, that England, who had been contending with France ever since the termination of the transient peace of Amiens, succeeded in forming a coalition against her enemy, to which Russia, Austria, and Sweden, were parties. Buonaparte was not slow in concerting measures to crush this opposition to his power; and no sooner had he formed his plans, than he proceeded with his usual vigour to carry them into execution. A mass of French troops was rapidly poured into the heart of Germany, where a strong Austrian army was gathered under the command of Field-Marshal Mack, a general of much reputation, but evidently of more than he could sustain. He was the same of whom Nelson had once spoken so pithily, when the Austrian government were employing him to defend the Neapolitan territory. "General Mack cannot move without five carriages; I have formed my opinion, I heartily pray that I may be mistaken." Nelson judged the man well; Mack was easily beaten on that occasion, and he now seemed determined not to win a better character than he then gained. Napoleon was down upon his opponent before he was expected; and the Austrians, having been worsted in some slight encounters, were obliged to give way. Mack himself, with 40,000 of his best troops, took up a position in Ulm, and thus became separated completely from the rest of his army. Napoleon took measures for cutting off his retreat; and these he executed with his usual secrecy and speed. He made preparations for storming the town, and issued a proclamation to his troops, telling them in his usual strain, that the following day would be an hundred times more celebrated than that of Marengo. He then sent a summons to Mack, calling upon him to capitulate without loss of time, and threatening, in the event of a refusal, to storm the town. On the following day, the Austrian general issued an order, intimating to the troops his resolution to defend his position to the last, forbidding the word surrender to be used by any one, and declaring his determination to eat horse-flesh rather than listen to any terms of capitulation. "This bravado," says Sir W. Scott, "appeared on the 16th of October, and the conditions of surrender were subscribed by Mack on the next day, having heen. probably in the course of adjustment when he was making these notable professions of resistance." The city of Ulm was to be surrendered to the French army with all the magazines and artillery,— the garrison were to march out with all the honours of war, and lay down their arms,--the field officers being then sent on their parole of honour into Austria, while the soldiers and subalterns were to be sent into France, there to remain until exchanged. The young Archduke Ferdinand, who opposed his weak or treacherous commander on the first proposal of this disgraceful surrender, dared to refuse submission, and, followed by several thousand of the troops, had gallantly cut his way into Bohemia. The remainder of the Austrian army, to the number of 28,000 men, marched out of the city, and filing before Napoleon, laid down their arms, and yielded themselves prisoners of war. During this operation, the called Mack and the other generals before conqueror him, and them an oration, in which he used the gave memorable expression,-" I desire nothing upon the continent; I want ships, colonies, and commerce!" Such was the famous capitulation of Ulm, which was speedily followed by the entry of the French into Vienna, then the celebrated battle of Austerlitz, and finally, by the peace of Presburg. SELF-WILL is so ardent and active, that it will break a world to pieces, to make a stool to sit on.-CECIL. I. THE NATURAL AND CIVIL HISTORY OF ITS EARLY HISTORY-DIFFERENT CLASSES OF NATIVES-THE VEDAHS-THE CINGALESE-THE CANDIANS-THE MALABARS. THE earliest account of Ceylon was brought to Europe by the Macedonians who were with Alexander in India. Onesicritus, a cynic philosopher who accompanied the king into Asia, is supposed to be the first author who mentions this island under the name of Taprobane; and the variety of its names in the east, as well as in Europe, is one of the extraordinary circumstances of its history. Ancient historians differ greatly with respect to the situation and size of the modern Ceylon. Onesicritus states it to lie twenty days' sail from the Continent, but he gives its dimensions with tolerable accuracy, if his estimate of five thousand stadia, which he asserts to be its size, (for according to Strabo, he does not mention whether this admeasurement refers to its length, breadth, or circumference,) be considered as comprehending the whole extent of its coast. It may reasonably be concluded that he intended to mark the cirstadia; since, at eight stadia to the mile, these precisely cumference of the island, by computing it at five thousand amount to 625 miles, which is not far distant from the measurement of Rennell, who, in his last map, lays down the length at 280 miles, the breadth at 150, and the extreme circumference at 660. modern appellation of Ceylon is probably derived. By the Ceylon is called by the natives, Singhala, from which its Hindoos on the Malabar and Coromandel coasts, it is called Lanca, and by the Mohammedans, Serendib. Its ancient name of Taprobane has been supposed, but I think, upon no sufficient authority, to have had its origin from Tapoo Ravana, or the island of Ravan, a demon and sovereign in the remote times of Hindoo antiquity. The great mythominous epic, written in the purest Sanscrit, describes the logical poem of the Hindoos, the Ramayana, a most voluconquest of Ceylon, and the destruction of its demoniacal sovereign Ravan, by the illustrious Rama, an avatar of Vishnu, who, assisted by an army of monkeys, took the island, and dethroned and destroyed its demon-king. Rama's bridge, the original name of the reef of rocks called Adam's bridge by the Mohammedans, was so named which connects Ceylon with the small island of Ramiseram, by the Hindoos, in commemoration of inis memorable event. Although this celebrated island was known to the earliest historians, yet from none of them do we obtain any information respecting the social or pherty as the time of it has undere Great, or Iskander Sutlan, as he is denominated by eastern writers, the name of Taprobane was familiar to the Greek historians; yet was it not until the Portuguese obtained a settlement there, in the early part of the sixteenth century, that any very accurate information was obtained respecting it. The Portuguese retained undisturbed possession of Columbo, until the year 1656, when they were expelled by the Dutch, in whose possession it remained until the year 1796, when it was captured by the British, and finally ceded to them at the peace of Amiens. DIFFERENT CLASSES OF NATIVES. THE native inhabitants of the island are divided into three 92 THE SATURDAY MAGAZINE. though eagerly shunning the sight of civilized man, yet As these Vedahs shun all intercourse, except with the THE CINGALESE THE Cingalese are, for the most part, extremely poor, In their own societies, the Cingalese are divided into nineteen classes, the highest being the Hondrews, or Vellalas, who are, in fact, the farmers of the soil, and from this class they gradually descend in distinction, the nineteenth, which is a very degraded tribe, being composed of persons who touch and eat dead animals. The highest rank of native servants, is the Moodellier, a chief who exercises a limited jurisdiction under a British functionary. One of these Moodelliers is placed at the head of every department of the state; their jurisdiction is not hereditary, they may, therefore, be deposed at the option of the govern ment. They have a great number of subordinates, and, The dress of the poor, that is, of the men, is simply a Amid the external appearance of poverty, so common to the lowest orders of the Cingalese, there is, nevertheless, frequently an air of comfort in their dwellings, that almost seems to realize the pictures of Arcadian felicity, which fiction has ascribed to less genial climes, and to a more uncivilized race. Their wants are few, and these easily supplied. They are perfectly contented with their lot, and seem not to envy others the enjoyment of a better condition. Their dwellings are surrounded by verdant groves of trees, from which the various fruits of the country hang in luxuriant and graceful profusion. These dwellings are, for the most part, built with timber and clay, but sometimes they are constructed of much lighter materials, a bamboo framework, covered with the leaves of the cocoa-nut and palmyra, forming a sufficient protection against the trifling inclemencies of this fine climate. They have no chimneys, and are entirely destitute of ornament. The inhabitants Aue to the privind uicle of food among the extreme spend most of their time in the open air. poor, and their dishes, when they take their meals, are supplied by nature; being the broadest leaves, plucked for the occasion, from the nearest tree. Many of their fruits are extremely nourishing; among these is the jack, a species of the bread-fruit, of which they make a delicious curry, combining with the jack, green chilies, turmeric, and the milk of the cocoa-nut. This is pressed from the pulp after it has been removed from the shell, by an instrument that performs at once the operations of a scoop and a grater. In common with the natives of all parts of India, those of Ceylon are fond of chewing the areca-nut to excess. They take a slice of the nut and a small quantity of powdered chunam, which is folded in a leaf of the beteltree. From the manducation of this compound, the saliva is dyed of a deep dingy red, and stains the whole of their teeth and gums, so as to appear extremely offensive to an European, though it is quite the reverse to an Asiatic. White teeth, so far from being an eastern charm, is rather esteemed a deformity, for many lovely Hindoos, whose teeth are by nature of a beautiful polish and texture, stain them black, in order, I suppose, to prove the supremacy of art over nature. The mixture which the Asiatics chew is considered both wholesome and nutritious, the areca-nut correcting the bitterness of the betel leaf, and the chunam preventing it from over-exciting the stomach. THE CANDIANS. THE Candians differ as much from the Cingalese as the |