days, and it is seldom effected in less than from five to eight to Belize, and from eight to ten from Belize to Izabal; as, in the latter case, the current is against you in the very places where the wind would be most useful, but is kept off by the lofty barriers encircling the narrow channel; so that it is necessary to get out of the vessel and tow her, with infinite labour, along the shore, impeded by the branches of the trees and the obstructions from the natural unevenness of the banks.

CHAPTER XXX.

Feelings on arriving at a British settlement. Dis.

appointment in not finding a passage by the Mar hogany Ships.--Attacked with the fever. --Make acquaintance with the Intendant and Inhabitants,

– Yellow fever rages at Jamaica. Gulf of Florida swarming with Pirates.— Take passage in the Margaret, Trader.

It was about five o'clock in the evenin when we landed at Belize; on passing close by the fort which protects the mouth of the river as well as the whole town, I was much struck with the chubby appearance of some children belonging to the soldiers of the garrison. We were shown to the only inn in the place, kept by Mrs. Ebrington, a fine English woman, fat, fair, and forty, and the widow of an English officer: the apartments bore also the peculiar characteristics of English comfort. The side-board was covered with drinking

glasses of every shape and figure, from the champaigner with its dandified waist down to the broad-bottomed rummer : spruce looking mahogany tables with attendant chairs were arranged in symmetrical order, inviting the guests to their snug, exclusive, repasts: I sat down at one of them, and took up a newspaper; it was the “ Times ", and, with a feeling of satisfaction which I cannot express, began to fancy myself already in England. Two smart little negro boys officiated as waiters; the landlady was out, but the contents of a cold larder were placed before us, to which we did ample justice, having been almost starved for the last two days: my Guatemalian companions were delighted with the bottled porter, preferring it to the champaign and the rarer specimens of the cellar. In the course of the evening, our good hostess returned, and installed us in possession of the whole house, having réquested two other gentlemen who were her guests to remove to some apartments

which she provided for them in the town: we were comfortably lodged; but could not help regretting that the rooms were so small and low pitched.

The climate of Belize is exceedingly hot: indeed, the average of the thermometer, night and day, was about 95°, during the period of our stay; which proved at least a fortnight longer than I had intended. The fact was, that the mahogany ships were all on the point of sailing, being obliged to do so, by their charter, by the 1st of the month. I was diligently employed during the whole evening, in endeavouring to get a passage in one, but had the mortification to find that there was no accommodation left: I was the more distressed at this circumstance, from finding myself attacked, the next night, with a bilious fever ; Don Eugenio was also confined to his bed, and the prospect of our departure became more and more uncertain. I had, on that day, the honour of dining with the intendant, General Codd, where I met Major Schaw, his aid-de-camp, a gentleman to whose kindness and hospitality I have much pleasure in bearing testimony, as also to that of his good lady : they contributed greatly to my gratification during my residence at

this port.

Monday, 8th August. This day we made an aquatic excursion up the country. Two large pitpans were hired for the purpose, one containing the company and the other our provisions. About twelve miles up the river, which bears the name of the town, we disembarked at a negro's hut to breakfast, and then proceeded about seven miles farther, where we spent the day in gipsy fashion, in one of those sequestered verdant spots with which the banks of the river abound.

In our progress we met nothing but some negroes with rafts of mahogany trees which they were bringing down to the beach, where they are trimmed with large axes into square sides, previously to embarkation : at this time, most of the ships were loaded and ready to sail ; but