CHAPTER VIII.

Occurrences between Aguachapa and Zuaquiniqui

niquilapa.

On Sunday, the 15th of May, we left Aguachapa about six o'clock.

The country through which we passed was champaign, but studded, at intervals, in the distance,

with fine forest trees. On the left, was a large lake, a solitary waste of water, but which, being lighted, instantaneously, by the tropical sun, in his rapid rising, dazzled like a mirror, when its reflection is suddenly flashed upon the sight. The brilliancy of the scene, and the freshness of the morning air, were highly exhilarating: my companion was lively and chirping. I found he had many small commissions to do for the young ladies, besides the important one above detailed,--such as combs and other trinkets. He informed me that the latter could only be repaired in the capital, where they were made. He shewed me a particular kind of twisted gold chain, properly designated Guatemalian, as another kind, perfectly distinct in structure, is called Panamian. I brought one of the former with me to England, and, having broken it, for it is very delicate, have never been able to get it properly repaired, even by the best London workmen.

The tree which I had seen in my route to Acapulco, bearing cherries, without leaves, was here very common: my companion informed me that it was called picaro. How this term applies, which means rogue, with all its variety of senses, as applied either to the offender at the Old Bailey, who is sometimes forgiven after the commission of the act, or to the transgressor in the coteries of the Mesdames Vitula and Lubentia, who feels that he is forgiven whilst he commits it, I cannot, I confess, conceive: perhaps, however, it meant that the fruit was piquant : in truth, it was very

The next natural curiosity we met with was the zopilote: about fifty or sixty of these birds were standing in state round a dead mule, whilst one, distinguished by a tuft or civic cap upon his head, was perched upon the carcase and contemplating it with an hurried air of dignity and satisfaction : he leered into each morsel, first with one eye and then with the other, as a gentleman surveys a well-loaded table with his quizzing-glass. When I last saw a portion of this extraordinary community, they were taking their siesta, or sleeping after dinner;—they were now in watchful expectation of the moment when they might commence that repast. Don Simon told me that the bird who was playing so conspicuous a part was the one who had had the good fortune to find the mule, and was consequently considered the alcalde, or lord mayor, whilst the others, who had kindly congregated to help him to eat it, were senadores, or common council men. Indeed it looked very like it,-for, after a reverent

bow of the head on the part of the alcalde, which might be compared to a short grace, this worshipful and worshipping company flew helter skelter upon the repast. Wewaited some time to see the end of it,--but despairing of doing so, proceeded on our route.

About mid-day, we came to the edge of a river, half as wide over as the Thames, at the new tunnel.

We had passed, for the last six miles, along its banks, through a country so beautiful as to make it difficult to describe it. The road was a smooth, green, turf, skirted with luxuriant and flowering shrubs, now contracted, and now opening into spacious glens, and so winding in its course, that, every now and then, the river, which seemed to oppose our further progress, was, quickly, in our rear, and snatched from our speculation. We came, however, at length to “ that bourne from which no traveller returns" -- who determines to go

: we were on the bank of the river, and, to my astonishment, learnt we had to wade through it. Whilst

deliberating on the nature of this aquatic excursion, I was agreeably surprised at finding a large party, chiefly women and young girls, who, it seems, had been to church at a hamlet on this side of the water, and were now returning, already congregated on the bank. They walked boldly into the river, and raising their garments as they advanced, contrived to effect a tolerably dry and decent landing. If the river had been deep enough, it would have been well calculated for a tunnel, for its bed was rocky: the rocks, which are now smooth from the rapidity of the current, will probably be worn through before a tunnel is built under them.

We had progressed, as the Americans properly term it, a small distance on the other side of the river, when we came to a dale, interspersed with plots of rising ground, studded with palm-trees and thick dwarf verdure. It was now midday, and the vertical position of the sun scarce threw a shadow upon the sward; but as the fo