Hill or Court of Justice," and Cuspars, or the butts for shooting with bows, which were part of the pageantry of the ancient barons. The view from the castle is at once varied and extensive.*

Proceeding now in a southerly direction, Ardgowan (Sir Michael Shaw Stewart, Bart.) is seen upon the left; and farther down, the village of Innerkip. Looking to the south, the tourist has a distant view of the Ayrshire coast, with the village of Largs, the two Cumbrays, &c. In the larger Cumbray there is nothing interesting except the great trap rock across the island; the smaller one is famed for its perpendicular cliffs, rising to the height of 800 feet in a succession of terraces. The new lighthouse stands upon the lower terrace-the tower of the old one on the peak affords a fine view of both coasts. Opposite, on the Ayrshire coast, is Pincross Castle in ruins. the right are the hills of Cowall, rising from the shore, variegated with woods and corn-fields. Almost in front is the Island of Bute; on the east side of it is distinctly seen Mount-Stewart House, the elegant seat of the Marquis of Bute.

On

The Island of Bute is about fifteen miles in length, and from four to five in breadth. The northern part is rocky and mountainous; but the southern part is fertile, and tolerably well cultivated. Along with the Isle of Arran, the Cumbrays, and Inchmarnoch, it forms a county under the name of the shire of Bute. There are several remains of antiquity upon the island, particularly a vitrified fort, and the ruins of a Catholic chapel. The population amounts to 14,151.

On nearing the Island of Bute, the point of Toward is passed upon the right, and on it is a lighthouse, near to which are the ruins of Toward Castle, once the residence

Passengers are landed at Dunoon, from which there is a road to the ferry of Otter, on the east shore of Loch-Fine, opposite to Loch-gilphead. There is also a road from Dunoon to Inverary by Strachur, to which place gigs may be had. The road for a consi derable way runs along the bank of Loch-Eck, a fresh water lake about seven miles long and half a mile broad, closed in on all sides by those wild and stupendous mountains which compose the region called Argyll's Bowling-Green. In the neighbourhood of Stra chur are some remarkable caves. From Strachur there is a regu lar ferry across Loch-Fine to Creggans, five miles below Inverary.

1

of the chief of the Lamonts, and also the elegant mansion of Castle Toward, (Kirkman Finlay, Esq.) On the opposite coast of Bute is the fine Bay of Rothesay, where stands the ancient royal burgh of Rothesay, containing a population of 4817. It has of late become a fashionable watering-place; and a more inviting situation for seabathing, or a summer residence, can hardly be conceived by the valetudinarian. The remains of the ancient royal castle are now so completely covered with ivy, that little of its walls can be seen. It is of unknown antiquity, but must have existed previous to 1228, when it was first taken by the Norwegians. It was again taken by Haco, who attacked it with eight ships, in 1263. In 1334, it was seized by Edward Baliol; in 1544, it was taken by Lord Lennox; and in 1685, it was burned by the Marquis of Argyll in King Charles's wars. This Castle was a favourite residence of the first kings of the Stewart dynasty; the bed-chamber and banqueting-rooms of Robert II. and III. the last who inhabited this venerable pile, are still pointed out. Rothesay gave the title of Duke to the eldest sons of the Scottish kings, which is continued to the heir-apparent of the British throne.*

The channel leaves the Clyde, and, taking a northwesterly course, half encircles the island, and bears the name of the Kyles, or Straits of Bute. Opposite Rothesay Bay is Achinwillan (Kirkman Finlay, Esq.), and two miles north, upon the coast of Bute, is Port Bannatyne bay and village. This is one of the most delightful and salubrious watering places in the island, therefore much frequented by invalids. At the head of the bay is Kames Castle (— Hamilton, Esq.), and near it an old tower, the ancient seat of the Bannatynes. On the right is Ardin, where there are many tumuli, erected over some roving Norwegians who were slain here by the natives. Two miles farther on, to the right, is the mouth of LochStraven, and near it South-hall Campbell, Esq.)

Three miles farther on is the ferry of Colintrae, and close to this are some rocky islets, called the Burnt Isles; on the most northerly of them are the remains of one of those remarkable vitrified forts, which was lately disco

* Steam-boats leave Glasgow every day for Rothesay.

vered by James Smith, Esq. of Jordanhill, and described in the 10th vol. of the Transactions of the Royal Society of Edinburgh. Near these isles is the opening of LochRidon; and at this opening is the small island of EllenGreig, memorable in the annals of the seventeenth century. In 1685, the gallant Archibald, Earl of Argyll, having, in concert with Monmouth, attempted an invasion of the kingdom, brought with him from Holland three frigates, arms, and ammunition. Having collected at Dunstaffnage an army of 3000 men, he ordered his ships round to Ellen-Greig, which he fortified, and placed his stores there, under protection of his ships and a garrison of 180 men. Soon afterwards, three ships of war and some frigates, in the service of King James, arrived at the island, to whom the Earl's frigates and garrison immediately surrendered. In the Castle were found 5000 stand of arms, 500 barrels of gunpowder, several cannon, and other stores. The Castle was blown up, and the catastrophe proved fatal to the expedition, and to the noble Earl, who soon afterwards was made prisoner near the mouth of the Cart river, in Renfrewshire.

On

The steam-boat now holds a southerly course until the bold point of Ardlamont is passed. Here the Kyles of Bute terminate. The shores of the Kyles, in some 'parts, are particularly romantic, as well as the entrance into Lochs Straven and Ridon, the former on the eastern, and the latter on the western entrance into the Kyles. Here the great Loch-Fine opens from the ocean. the left is seen the beautiful little island of Inchmarnoch, extending about a mile, and containing the ruins of a chapel. On the right is the house of Lamont, (General Lamont ;) and half-way betwixt it and Tarbert is Skate Island. The coast of Cantyre, upon the left, appears wild and precipitous; and at East Tarbert, where the steam-boats call, vegetation appears to have almost ceased. East Tarbert is a thriving village, situate at the head of East Loch-Tarbert, upon an isthmus about a mile in breadth, which divides the long peninsula of Cantyre from Knapdale, another division of Argyllshire. The entrance to the harbour of East Tarbert is very critical; but, when once entered, it is perfectly safe. On the left it is overlooked by the Castle of Tarbert in ruins,

perched upon a lofty rock.* Here James the Fourth sojourned when on a tour to subdue his rebellious subjects.

Proceeding from Tarbert, the coast maintains its rugged character towards Inverneil, in approaching which it gradually improves. Within three miles of the basin of the Crinan Canal, is Maoldhu, the extremity of the mountain Sliamhgaoil, or Hill or Love, on which Ossian's Diarmid, the progenitor of the Campbells, is said to have been killed. The basin of the Canal is now approached; and, at the distance of two miles, are seen the beautiful mansion of Oakfield, and the village of Lochgilphead. Leaving the Canal basin, at the point of Ardrissaig (where there is a village, and also where steam-boats land and receive passengers) the mouth of Loch-gilp is crossed; Kilmory and Castleton are successively seen upon the left; and, passing the point of Silvercraigs, proceed up Loch-Fine. On the right are Kilfinan church and Gordonbank (M'Leod, Esq.) and farther on, upon the same side, the ferry of Otter and Otter House (Campbell, Esq.) Three miles farther, upon the left, is Lochgair House (Campbell, Esq.) and other three miles, upon the same side, is Minard Campbell, Esq.); opposite is Castle Lachlan (M'Lachlan, Esq.) in ruins, with the elegant modern mansion of the same name, the view from which is exceedingly interesting. Next appears, on the left, Crarae Inn; and two miles farther, upon the same side, Goatfield and a deserted ironfoundery. Three miles in advance is Craggans Ferry on the left, and opposite to it Strachur Park (Mrs. General Campbell.) Four miles farther, upon the right, is St. Catherine's Ferry; and, at some distance up the lake, is seen the house of Ardkinglass, (Colonel Callander.) As we approach Inverary, the view of the Castle and surrounding scenery is very striking, an account of which is given in the SECOND LAND TOUR.

Every Thursday a packet sails from the head of West LochTarbert to Port Askaig, in the island of Islay, taking in passengers and goods for Islay, Jura, and Colonsay islands,-to be noticed in the following Tour.

TOUR IV.

FROM GLASGOW TO FORT-WILLIAM,-AND BY THE CALEDONIAN CANAL TO INVERNESS,-230 MILES,*

IN proceeding to Fort-William, the steam-boat pursues the tract described in a former Tour, as far as the basin of the Crinan Canal. This Canal traverses the isthmus, five miles in breadth, which is formed by LochGilp, projecting north-west from Loch-Fine and LochCrinan, and stretching eastward from the Sound of Jura. By means of it, vessels passing between the Clyde and the West Highlands avoid the tedious and somewhat dangerous navigation round the Mull of Cantyre, and also save a distance of 120 miles, or rather 240 miles outward and homeward. This Canal is nine miles in length, and contains fifteen locks, each 96 feet long and 24 broad; it was completed about 25 years ago.

The vessel enters the sea-lock, and passes three others. A mile from the basin there is seen the tomb of a Mr. Campbell, erected on the site of an old chapel; and a complete view is obtained of the village of Lochgilphead, of Kilmory (Campbell, Esq.) and several farmsteadings upon the right. A mile farther on is the beautiful mansion of Oakfield (Esq.) upon the left. The Canal passes through an extensive marsh, and on the right is seen the great road running towards the coasts of Lorn and Appin. Five miles farther, is a view of the great Crinan moss, watered by the river Add, also the conical hill of Dunad, on the top of which are the remains of an alarm-tower. The moss contains many marine substances, and its surface presents a number of tumuli and cairns, pointing out the graves of warriors. The village of Ballanach is passed upon the left, from whence there is a road to Kiel's Ferry, twelve miles distant, between which and the islands of Jura and Islay,

* A steam-boat plies every Monday and Thursday, while the Crinan Canal is open, from Glasgow, calling at Oban to meet the Inverness boat.