CHAPTER VI.

NUNEHAM-COURTNAY.

BELOW Oxford the scenery becomes much more beautiful: the country around is more diversified, the banks of the river are richly wooded, and from every elevated spot the spires of Oxford form a noble background to the prospect. Of a part so well known, however, it would be idle to speak at any length.

The stern-looking old tower we see before us on the left, belongs to Iffley church, one of the most interesting examples of ecclesiastical architecture which the neighbourhood of Oxford, rich in such objects, presents to the admirer of architectural antiquities. The village of Iffley is prettily situated on the hill-side, but has no historical or other associations to add to its interest. Iffley is mentioned in the Domesday Survey under the name of Givetelei. Warton, in his History of Kiddington,' states that Iffley church. was built by a Bishop of Lincoln in the twelfth century, but he gives no authority for his statement; it appears probable, however, from the style of the architecture, that it belongs to the early part of that century. All that is really ascertained is that it was in existence in 1189. It belonged as early as 1217 to the Black Canons of Kenilworth. "In the charter of Henry de Clinton, the third founder of

Kenilworth (preserved in the registry of the priory, now in the British Museum), the church of Yftel, as it is there called (plainly a corruption of the Givetelei of the Domesday-book, and an approach to the present name), with a virgate of land in Covele (now Cowley), are stated to have been given to the monastery by Juliana de Sancto Remigio." (Skelton.) Its great antiquity is therefore clear, apart from the evidence afforded by its style, and fortunately it has escaped without any remarkable injury. It is generally admitted to be one of the finest and most beautiful specimens in England of an Anglo-Norman parochial church. It consists of a nave and chancel, which are separated by a large square tower. The tower is low and divides the church into two nearly equal portions. On each side of it are two windows with circular arches supported by pillars. As in almost all these Norman edifices, the doorways are the most elaborately ornamented, and most striking features. That on the western side is the finest, and has long been known and admired by antiquaries. It is large, and has a bold circular arch with receding mouldings, carved in the richest manner, with the zig-zag and other ornaments; the outer arch has a double row of grotesque heads, and one of animals above. These carvings have been supposed to have an allegoric signification; they are rude in style, but they possess on the whole somewhat of grandeur of effect. The doorways on the northern and southern sides of the church are likewise considerably enriched. The southern is singular, but far less beautiful than the western doorway. On each side of it are two pillars, with the usual Norman ornaments, but all differing from

each other; they support a circular enriched arch. Over the western door there was originally a circular window ornamented with zig-zag tracery, but a window with a pointed arch was inserted within it on occasion of some alterations being made in the church, it is supposed from the form of the arch, in the fifteenth century. At the same time several other windows in the sides of the building were altered in a similar manner. The original circle is still plainly visible, however, in each instance.

The interior of the edifice, although it received some alterations at the same time as the exterior, still retains much of its original character, and previous to the recent restoration, had a remarkably venerable and sombre look. Mr. Brewer, in the 'Beauties of England,' calls it rude and cold, but no one possessing any true feeling for Gothic architecture will agree with him in that opinion. The chancel is vaulted with stone, and groined. There are some circular arches of bold span and handsomely carved at the intersection of the nave and chancel with the tower. A few of the windows contain some curious painted glass.

There are no monuments of interest in the church. Perhaps the most curious thing in it is the font, which is as old as the church. Being intended for baptism by immersion, it is very large. It is a plain trough, supported on an extremely thick central pillar, around which are four smaller ones, each of which is carved differently.

In the churchyard is a yew-tree with a trunk of enormous girth. Near this are the remains of a cross. Many of these crosses are to be met with in the churchyards about Oxford; several of them are in a much more perfect state than this, which

has suffered greatly from the effects of time and ill usage. Looked at from the churchyard, the appearance of the church is highly picturesque, especially when the huge dark mass of the yew and the old slim cross beside it are in the foreground.

At Littlemoor, a liberty adjoining Iffley and belonging to it, there was formerly a priory of Benedictine nuns; it was founded in the reign of Henry II., and was among the smaller religious houses suppressed by a papal bull in the reign of Henry VIII. It was given to Wolsey towards founding his new college in Oxford. Considerable portions of the building were standing in the last century, and some still remain.

Just by Iffley there is a very picturesque mill and weir on a branch of the river; and a mile or so lower is a large paper-manufactory called Lock's mill, which is by no means picturesque. The scenery onwards is varied and pleasant. The banks are well clothed with foliage, and the easy windings of the river afford a constant succession of agreeable