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first view of the town is very fine ; called Barcelonetta, is entirely new the situation beautiful, and the road and perfectly. regular, the streets all so great and well-made, as to add cutting each other at right angles : it much to the general scene ; indeed is true, the houses are all small, being there can no where be a finer ; it is meant for the residence of failors, litcarried in an even line over all nar- tle shop-keepers, and artizans, but it row vales, so that you have none of is at the same time no inconsiderable the inconveniencies which otherwise ornament to the city: one front of this are the effect of hills and declivities. new town faces the quay. The streets A few palm trees add to the novelty are well-lighted ; but the dust so deep of the prospect to northern eyes. The in some of them, especially the broadlast half-mile, we were in great haste er ones, that I know not whether they to be in time for the gates, as they are all paved or not. The governor's are shut at ninc o'clock: we had had house, and the new fountain, are on a moft burning fun for forty miles, a scale and in a style which shews that were a good deal fatigued, yet forced there are no mean ideas of embellisato undergo a strict ridiculous search ment here. The royal foundery for at the gate, as every thing pays an cannon is very great ; the buildings entrée to government tiat goes into spacious, and nothing wanting to thew the town. When this was over, we that no expence is fpared. The guns went to the French Crown, but all cast are chiefly brass ; - they were bofull; then to La Funde, where we ring several 24 pounders, which had found good quarters.
been caft solid, and which is an operMy friend thought this the most ation so truly curious, that one can fatiguing day he had ever experien- never view it without paying some hóced; the heat being exccffive, oppres. mage to the genius that firit invented fcd him much. The contrast of this it. In time of war 300 men are eminn, which is a very great one, with ployed, but at present the number is many waiters, active and alert, as in not considerable. The theatre is veEngland; a good supper, with some ex. ry large, and the seats on the two cellent Mediterranean fish, ripe peach- fides of the pit (for the center is at a es, good wine, the most delicious le. lower price) extremely commodious ; monade in the world, good beds, &c. there are elbows to separate the pla&c. contrasted most powerfully with ces, so that you sit as in an elbow the dreadful starving or stinking fare chair. We were present at the repres we had every where else met with. sentation of a Spanish comedy, and an
The 17th. View the town, which is Italian opera after it, and were surlarge, and, to the eye, in every street prised to find clergymen in their haremarkably populous : many of the bits in every part of the house. This, freets are narrow, as may be expec- which is never seen in France, shews ted in an old town, but there are al- a relaxation in points of religion, that so many others of a good breadth, and may by and by have its effect. They with good houses. Yet one cannot, have an Italian opera twice a week, upon the whole, consider it as well and plays the other evenings. I saw built, except in what relates to the a blacksmith, hot from the anvil, come public edifices, which are erected in a in, and seat himself in the pit, with magnificent style. There are fome his shirt sleeves tucked above his elconsiderable openings, which, though bows. The house is larger than ours not regular squares, are highly orna- at Covent-Garden. Every well-dref, mental, and have a good effect in set- fed person was in the French fashion ; ting off the new buildings to the best but there were many others that still advantage. One quarter of the city, retained the Spanish mode of wearing their hair, without powder, in a thick The industry and trade, however, black net, which hangs down the back: which have taken root and prospered nothing can have a worse effect, or be, in this city, have withstood the conin idea, more offensive in so hot a cli- tinued system of the Court to deal semate. But the object at Barcelona verely with the whole province of Cawhich is the most striking, and which talonia. The famous efforts which has hardly any where a rival, is the the Catalans made, in the beginning quay: the design and execution are of this century, to place a Prince of equally good: it is about half a mile the House of Austria upon the throne long, as I guessed by my eye. A low of Spain, were not foon forgotten by platform is built but a few feet above the Princes of the House of Bourbon the level of the water, of stone, close Heavy taxes are paid in Barcelona ; to which the ships are moored; this nothing comes into the town without is of breadth sufficient for goods and paying an entrée; a load of 220 bottles packages of all sorts in loading and of wine pays 12 pefettos, which is aunloading the vessels: a row of arched bout 12s. English: even wheat is not warehouses open on this platform, a- exempted. Houses pay a heavy probove and over which is the upper part portional tax, which is levied with of the quay, which is on a level with such striểness, that the least addition the street ; and, for the convenience or improvement is sure to be attended of going up or down from one to the with an increase of the tax. Nor is other, there are ways for carriages, taxation the only instance of severity ; and also stair-cases : the whole is most the whole province continues to this folidly erected in hewn stone, and fic day disarmed, so that a nobleman cannished in a manner that shews a true not wear a sword, unless privileged to fpirit of magnificence, in this most use- do it by grace, or office; and this goes ful fort of public works. It does cre- so far, that they, are known, in order dit to the kingdom. The road by to be able to exhibit this mark of disa which we travelled for several miles tinction, to get themselves enrolled to Barcelona, the bridge over which as Familiars of the Inquisition, an we passed the river, and this quay, are office which carries with it that licence. all works which will reflect a lasting I note this correctly, as the informahonour on the present King of Spain. tion was given me; but I hope the They are truly great. There are now person who gave it was mistaken, and about 140 ships in the harbour, but the that no such double dishonour is in number is often many more.
question ; in a court, to drive men, The manufactories at Barcelona are fourscore years after their offence, and considerable. There is every appear- which offence was only fidelity to the ance as you walk the streets of great Prince they esteemed their sovereign, and active industry; you move no to so unworthy a means of personal where without hearing the creak of distinction. The mention of the Instocking-engines. Silk is manufactu- quisition made us inquire into the red into stockings, handkerchiefs, (but present state of that bély office; and these are not on fo great a scale as at we were informed, that it was now Valencia) laces, and various stuffs. formidable only to persons very notoThey have also some woollen fabrics, rious in ill fame; and that when it but not considerable. The great bu- does act against offenders, an Inquiliness of the place is, that of commif- fitor comes from Madrid to conduct Lion; there are not many ships belong. the process : from the exprellions, ing to the town, but the amount of the howeser, which were used, and the trade transacted here is very consider. instances given, it appeared that they
take cognizance of cascs not at al
I 2 OZ.
connected with faith in religion ; and The 18th, leave Barcelona ; searchthat if men or women were guilty of ed again at the gate going out, which vices which made them notoriously seems for the payment of entries to be offensive, this was the power which a needless and burthensome precauinterposed: an account by no means tion. Enter immediately an extraor. favourable; for the circumstance which dinary scene of watered cultivation, was supposed most to limit their pow- and which must have given the gene, er, was the explicit nature of the of- rai reputation to the province. No. fence, that it was against the catholic thing can well be finer. The crops in faith, and by no means against public perpetuai fucceilion—and the attention niorals, to secure which is an object given to their culture great. Not the of very different judicatures in every idea of a fallow; but the moment one country.
crop is off, some other immediately There are reckoned to be from 1200 fown. A great deal of lucerne, which to 1500 monks and nuns in the city. is cut, four, five, fix, and even seven Price of Prouifions.
times in a year ; all broadcast, and Bread, 4 fous and a ? that of the poor exceedingly thick and fine, from 27 fraction
people very little to 3 fcei high when cut. lb. of
It is all per
less; but they buy watered every eight days. We meet Mutton, 224 sous
the soldiers bread, the lb. of 36 oz.
which'coines chea? many mule loads of it going into the Pork, 45 fous the
per; they live very town, each 450lb. or 4 quintals,
much on stock which sells for four pesetios, or near lo. of 1202. J filh, &c.
45. Englith ; fuppofe it 4 s. for goolb. Hams sometimes three or four pesertos it will not be difñcult to calculate the or shillings the lb. of 12 oz. Wine produce of an acre. All I saw would four to five sous the bottle.
yield ten ton green per acre at each The markets are now full of ripe cutting, and much of it a great deal figs, peaches, melons, and more com- more : let us suppose five cuttings or mon sorts of fruit, in great profusion. 50 tons per acre, at 16s. a ton, this I bought three large peaches for a is 401. Iterl. per acre.
It is to be repenny, and our laquais de place faid membered that the growth we faw was that I gave too much, and paid like the third, perhaps the fourth, and that a foreigner. Noble orange trees are the first and fecond are in all probain the gardens in the town full of bility more considerable ; it will not, fruit, and all sorts of garden vege- therefore, be thought any exaggeratables in the greatest plenty and per- tion to calculate on five fuch. I by fection. The climate in Winter may no means allere lucerne yields always, be conjectured from their having green or generally so, as I speak only of pease every month in the year. what I see. I have very little doubt,
Labour. Common day wages are however, but this is the amount of 25 fous French, sometimes rise to 33 that portion which is thus cut and fous, the very lowest 22 1-half. Stock-fold to Barcelona ; possibly one-third, ing-weavers earn 33 sous.
certainly one-fourth is to be deducted View the very pretty fort to the for the expence of carriage: this is fouth of the town, which is on the the most difficult part of the calculasummit of a hill that commands a vast tion, for it depends on how many times prospect by sea and land. It is ex- the mule goes in a day, which must eeedingly well built, and well kept: also depend on the readiness of sale Notwithstanding this fort to the south, and other circumstances. The profit and a citadd to the north of the town, is, however, amazingly grcat. All corsairs, in time of war, have cut filh- the other lucerne I have any where ing vesseis out of the roads, and very seen finks, is my idea, to nothing, on Dear the shore.
comparison with the salt and luxuriant
burthens given by these watered ter-wheel, with jars around the cirgrouods. The finest crops I have cumference. The gardens between known in England are drilled : but Barcelona and the fort, and also withthere is a fallacy to the eye in the in the walls, are watered in the same drilled crops in proportion is the dif- manner ; the water is let into every tance of the rows ; they appear thick little bed, in the same way as I have while they are really thin, but in already described. They are crowdbroad-cast ones which satisfy the eye ed with crops, and kept in most beauthere is no deception ; and these im- tiful order : those in and close to the mense burthens, through which the town scattered with mulberry-trees. Scythe is with difficulty moved, pro- But in the district of which I am duce more at one cutting than two- speaking at present, among the hemp feet drills would at three, with the and lucerne, neither vine, olive, nor advantage of the herbage being finer mulberry. These watered lands beand softer. But weeds in England long generally to proprietors who live and Catalonia are two very different in Barcelona, and are let at thirty to things; it well deserves, however, forty Spanish livres the journal. with us, a better trial than it has yet The valley in its widest part is three generally received. I have viewed miles broad. Here it lets at 34 Spabroad-caft crops in that country, par- nish livres a-year the journal, and the ticularly Rocque's, on a very rich journal fells from 600 to 1000 livres, garden-foil, and Dr Tanner's on a cach of these livres being about 54 common turnip-loam, which, though fous (1000 Spanish livres make 2700 not to be named with the Spanish, French ones.) Taking the medium were certainly encouraging.
at 800, and the French livre at 10 d. Hemp, through all these watered this makes the journal gol. 2 s. 6d. lands, is the predominant crop; it is and the rent of it 41. The gross rent seven feet high, and perfectly fine ; of the land, therefore, pays nearly 4* some of it is already harvested. I am per cent. ; but whether this is clear forry to see that the watered part of rent, the tenant paying all taxes, and the vale is not more than a mile broad. doing the small repairs of his house, Indian fig, called here figua de Mar. &c. or whether there are deductions ra, grows fix or seven feet high, very on those accounts, are questions which branching and crooked, the arms at were neither forgotten nor resolved. bortom as thick as the thigh of a com- To Thew the quick succeflion of their mon man ; these and many aloes in the crops, they have corn in ftooks on the hedges. Every garden or farm has a borders of some of the fields, and the fmall house with a reservoir for wa- land ploughed and sown with millet, ter, which is filled in most by a wa- which is already nine inches high.
Description of the Cities of Miquenez and Fez *. A
FTER Muley Ismael had uni- South to North. Morocco was cho
ted the little kingdoms that sen as the southern, and Miquenez as. compose the empire of Morocco, he the northern imperial city. wished to have two imperial cities Miquenez stands at the extremity large enough to contain his people of the province of Beni-Hallen, eighty talily as they passed alternately from leagues North from the city of NoVol. VII. No 37. D
rocco, Recherckes Historiques sur les Maures,
twenty to the East of Sa- At the fouth-east extremity of the Ice and the ocean. Maknassa, its city stands the palace of the Emperor, founder, built it at first in the bottom which was built hy Muley Ismael. of a valley; but. Muley lsmael ex. The space occupied by this palace is tended it considerably over the plain very great ; it includes several gardens that lies to the West of the valley. elegantly dispofed and well watered. It is surrounded with well-cultivated I was favoured with a view of this fields and hills, adorned with gardens palace, by order of the Emperor, for and olive plantations, and abundantly there is no other means of admittance. watered with rivulets. Accordingly, There is a large garden in the centre, fruits and kitchen stuff thrive here surrounded by a vast and pretty regalar exceedingly, and even the superior gallery resting on colomns which comurbanity of the inhabitants announces municates with the apartments. Those the temperature of the climate. The of the women, which are not now fo Winter indeed is very inconvenient well peopled as they were in the days on account of the dirtiness of the of Muley Ifmael, are very spacious, town, the streets not being paved, and and have a communication with a large the foil being slimy.
chamber which looks into the garden. Miquenez is surrounded with walls; As you pass from one apartment to
palace itself is fortified with two another, you find at intervals regular 'bastions, on which formerly fome small courts paved with square pieces of guns were mounted. Muley Ismack black and white marble : in the midand Muley Abdallah, often in this ci- dle of these courts is a marble bason, ty resisted the efforts of the Brebes, from the center of which rises a jesthe sworn enemies of their tyranny. d-cau, and the water falls down into To the West are seen some walls of this bason. These fountains are nucircumvallation fix feet in heighth, merous in the palace ; they are useful which were probably mere intrench- for domestic purpofes, and they ferve ments for the infantry; the attacks of for the ablutions, which the scruples the Brebes being only sudden and mo- of the Mahometans have exceedingly mentary inroads, which did not re multiplied. quire a long defence.
The palaces of the Moorish kings There is at Miquenez, as well as are large, because they are composed at Morocco, a walled and guarded only of one range of apartments; these Suburb for the Jews. The houses are are long and narrow, from 18 to 20 neater here than at Morocco, the Jews feet high ; they have few ornaments, are more numerous, and they can turn and receive the light by two large foldtheir industry to greater account, be. ing doors, which are opened more or cause the Moors in this city are more leis as occasion requires. The rooms polished, and, being nearer to Eu- are always lighted from a square court rope, more visited than those in the in the center, which is generally enfouthern parts.
compafled with a colonade. Near the Jewiy there is another The Moois here are more courteinclosed and separate quarter called ous than those in the southern parts ; the Negro-town. It was built by they are civil to strangers, and invite Muley Ismael for the accommodation them into their gardens, which are of those black families which compo- very neat.
The women in this part fed his soldiery. This town is now of the empire are beautiful; they have uninhabited, as are all those destined a fair complexion, with fine black eyes for the same ufc through the rest of and white teeth. I have sometimes the empire.
seen then taking the air on the ter