OMETIMES it may happen that a boy
may like to cultivate flowers, while
from his living in town, or other reasons,
he has no field, or rather garden,
wherein to display his abilities.
such a case the only resource is to
make a window-sill do duty as his
garden; and even here, though of
course on a small scale, plants may be
raised and flowers propagated. Here,
however, as every circumstance of his
operations will be more or less artificial,
a great deal more care will be required
in the management of in-door plants,
than when, in the garden, they have the
uninterrupted sunshine, and rain, and
breezes of heaven to ripen and mature
them.

Where the proceeding is practicable, a capital miniature garden may be obtained in the following manner, which is moreover practised in many houses in London. From a back window, with a sunny aspect, let a broad stage be

built out, or the window-sill and the sides glazed, so as to form a kind of recess with a sloping roof, the size of the window, and with a sloping lid or roof which can be raised or shut down. The whole must extend to about the height of the lower sash. By shutting down the window this recess can be shut off from the room, which is sometimes necessary, as it becomes injurious to keep plants during summer and autumn in the atmosphere of a room at night, as they exhale carbonic acid gas in large quantities. On the other hand, during severe weather, they should be sheltered by a few yards of canvas, contrived to fall like an awning or covering over the plant recess, and which can be drawn up or down like a Venetian blind. It will also be necessary sometimes to guard the plants from the full glare of the noon-day sun. Round this glazed receptacle, which will represent a miniature conservatory or greenhouse, two or three small movable shelves should be ranged, and on these shelves the smaller pots should be placed in which the plants are reared until they have attained some degree of strength, and the smaller ones until they have flowered. Shallow boxes of mould should be placed on the floor of the little plant-house, and in these creepers may be cultivated that will spread gracefully over the inside, climbing up towards the roof. Light and air are the two great requisites of plants. The window chosen should therefore be in a situation where the full sunlight may fall upon it, and where a good circulation of air may be obtained by opening the roof of the glass box.

In this small space geraniums and many other flowers may be propagated by layers, runners, and suckers, just as in garden beds. As the plants must be grown in pots, the following directions should be carefully attended to :

In the bottom of each pot place an oyster-shell, or a loose piece of tile, with a few burnt coal cinders, or bits of brick, or charcoal about the size of a walnut, laid an inch or two thick, to keep out worms and drain off stagnant water. The soil ought in general to be good without being too rich; but in pot cultivation of flowers different soils may be readily prepared for different plants, according to the directions given in the Alphabetical Register of Flowering Plants and Shrubs. A mixture of equal parts of peat mould and garden mould, with a small proportion of river sand or lime rubbish, will make a good soil for general purposes.

It

Window plants often require removing into larger pots as they grow. is high time to do this when you see the leaves turning yellowish and the plant drooping and presenting a sickly appearance, for this is a sign that the root is beginning to suffer for want of sufficient earth. Where the plants cannot be re-potted, put some fresh mould on the surface, and stir and break the mould round the roots with a small trowel. By a little care you may have cuttings growing all the winter, and have a fine show of flowers early in spring.

The judicious WATERING of these plants is a point of great importance. Our young friends must be particularly cautioned to abstain from sousing their plants-a proceeding which will do at least as much injury as neglecting to supply a sufficient quantity of water. A plant does not want watering until the mould shows dryness on the surface, and there are very few exceptions to this rule. Saucers are objectionable; the plant ought not to stand in a substratum of water; and where it is necessary to use them, all the water that falls into the saucer while the plants are being watered should immediately be poured away. If allowed to remain with moist saucers, the plants will never be healthy. Of course marsh plants, such as the forget-me-not and African lily, form an exception, and may be rather more abundantly supplied.

Due attention should be paid to the temperature of your plant-house. Of course it will generally partake of the temperature of the room, but the degree of warmth may be regulated to a certain degree by keeping the windowsash shut or open, to keep up or cut off the communication with the room, opening the roof, removing or replacing the canvas cover, &c.

The great points to be attended to are briefly these:-Exclude damp, take care there is proper ventilation, and keep your plants free from decayed leaves and insects. In the winter it is sometimes best to wator them with water slightly warmed, but never what is called lukewarm. Flowering bulbs and

The kinds best

other plants should be so managed as to secure a good succession; and climbing plants trained in festoons, and suffered to hang from baskets near the top of the case. A little dry moss will sometimes greatly improve the general effect. You may also improve the general effect of your windowgarden by the cultivation of BULBS IN WATER-GLASSES. adapted for water-glasses are all the species of the narcissus, the hyacinth, the early dwarf tulip, the jonquil, large Dutch and common iris, the Persian and the dwarf Scotch crocuses, and any flowers of similar description. Suitable glasses of dark colour are to be procured at any glass-shop. At any time between October and March they may be filled with water and the plants placed in them. The water must be soft-rain-water is best. Let it reach through the neck of the glass into the upper part, so that the bottom of the bulb may be just touched by the water; then place the glasses in a position where they may at once have light and heat; the sun's rays will be good for them. By placing them in the glasses at proper intervals of time, a constant succession of flowers may be obtained from January to May. The roots will shoot down into the water, and it will be necessary to see that these are not left dry. Water should be given very gradually, and the bulb be lifted as gently and as little as possible.

With care and attention the window-garden may be made "a thing of beauty;" and if not exactly "a joy for ever," it will, at any rate, be found a capital introduction to more extensive operations in gardening.

THE Kitchen Garden will naturally occupy less of the young gardener's attention than the more ornamental department of flower cultivation. The limited size of his ground will prevent his cultivating vegetables on any but a very limited scale. A description of these vegetables will also be unnecessary, as we should think it quite useless to write for any boy who did not know how cabbages and turnips, and carrots and lettuces, look without our assistance. We shall, therefore, content ourselves with giving directions for each month's work, and commence at once with

JANUARY.

Trench or deeply dig all vacant pieces of earth; but only during dry weather, and when free from snow. The rougher the surface the better. If dug, you may throw it up in ridges, that the frost may act upon a large

surface. Dig up gravel walks, leaving the gravel in a ridge in the middle of the walk, with the sides smooth; the gravel to be laid down again in March. If a severe frost comes, protect parsley, winter lettuces, and rhubarb beds with straw or litter. Search for slugs and snails, and destroy them. In open weather, cos and cabbage lettuce may be sown; also, carrots, radishes, spinach, and long-pod beans. Peas and beans must be earthed up against the frost.

FLOWER GARDEN.-Sow and plant in pots hardy annuals, such as lupins, peas, &c. (see alphabetical list). In open weather, plant bulbous roots.

The flowers now in bloom are laurustinus, monthly rose, Christmas rose, yellow hellebore, snowdrops, anemone, and sweet coltsfoot.

If you have fruit trees in your garden, scare birds from picking the buds, and search for and destroy the eggs of insects. Trees may be pruned when the weather is mild; but not on frosty days.

FEBRUARY.

KITCHEN GARDEN.-Sow ordinary peas at the beginning, and marrowfats and the larger sorts towards the end of the month. Leave three or four feet between the rows, and sow three inches deep. Transplant cabbage plants to where they are to remain. Strong plants may be planted out in mild weather at the beginning of the month; if weakly, or hurt by frost, plant out at the end of the month, or at the beginning of April. Give cauliflower plants air enough, and at the end of the month transplant the stronger to where they are to remain. Sow cauliflower seed early in the month for planting out to succeed the first crop. At the end of the month sow carrots on a light border, or in some sheltered spot. In early sowings of vegetables, it is advisable to half fill the drills in which you drop the seed with light vegetable mould, covering the seed with the same, especially in strong, wet soils. Thin out winter lettuces to twelve inches each way. Plant those taken out in sheltered spots, twelve inches between each. Plant early potatoes in open weather, protecting them with hoops and mats. Between potato drills sow radishes and round spinach ; in the middle of the month sow savoys, leeks, onions, lettuces, and early cabbages. In very rich ground, and in a very warm spot, you may try sowing early turnips; but it is a risk. Sow asparagus seed on open ground.

FLOWER GARDEN.-The flowers in bloom in February are mezereon, primrose, snowdrop, sweet violet, and hepatica.

Sow anemones, sow hardy annuals in borders, if the weather opens; sow also hardy biennials, and put in your remaining bulbs; sow dahlias, and place the tubers in hot-beds, or under glass, in a border, to break buds for slipping; sow hardy perennials, plant suckers, slips, and partings of roots; by the end of the month, complete the planting of flowering shrubs; sow also polyanthuses, balsams, and cockscombs, and other tender annuals may be sown by affording protection when requisite.

In the middle of the day clear off the mats or straw over tulips and other roots. Expose potted plants to the sunlight for a few hours in the middle of bright days. Stir the earth about the tops of the pots, and add a little new mould where required.

You may begin grafting at the end of the month.

MARCH.

Mild dry March weather is the best opportunity for cropping the kitchen garden. Put plenty of seeds into the ground in this month. Sow now in your best soil; where the soil is wet and heavy, you must wait for very fine weather, or many of the less hardy seeds may be lost, mostly through damp. Rough dig all vacant ground. Put down the gravel you dug up in January, smoothing and rolling the walks well. Plant all kinds of beans, Windsor, and others: they are sure to do. The long-podded kind yields freely. Sow marrowfat peas once a fortnight, in open spots unshaded by trees. Cover peas above ground with light mould to an inch of the top. In dry weather water them slightly; in frosty nights they want a slight covering. Plant out cauliflowers,