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of good council, and the king's minding of his business and servants."

19. For the want of pay to the household " many of the music are ready to starve, they being five years behind hand nay, Evans, the famous man upon the harp, having not his equal in the world, did the other day die for mere want, and was fain to be buried at the alms of the parish, and carried to his grave in the dark, at night, without one link, but that Mr. Hingston met it by chance, and did give 12d to buy two or three."

"Took a turn with 1667. April 26. Mr. Evelyn, with whom I walked two hours, talking of the badness of the government, where nothing but wickedness, and wicked men and women, commanded the king: it is not in his nature to gainsay any thing that relates to his pleasures. Mr. Evelyn tells me of several of the menial servants of the court lacking bread, that have not received a farthing wages since the king's coming in. Want of paper at the council the other day; Wooly being to have found it, and, being called, did tell the king to his face the reason of it."

June 23. "Mr. Povey tells me his opinion that it is out of possibility for us to escape being undone, there being nothing in our power to do that is necessary for the saving us: a lazy prince, no councils, no money, no reputation at home or abroad. The king hath taken ten times more care and pains in making friends between lady Castlemaine and Mrs. Stewart, when they have fallen out, than ever he did to save the kingdom; nay, upon any falling out between my lady Castlemaine's nurse and her woman, my lady C. hath often said she would make the king to make them friends and be quiet, which the king hath been fain to do." "Went to visit Sir G. July 27. He tells me that the court is in a fair way to ruin all for their plea sures; and that he himself hath taken the liberty to tell the king the necessity of having, at least, a show of religion in the government, and sobriety; and that it was that that did set up and keep up Oliver."

Cartwright.

29. "The king made a short, and no very pleasing speech to the house of commons, not at all giving them thanks for their readiness to come up to town at this busy time; but told them that he did think he should have had occasion for them, but had none, and therefore he did dismiss

them till October; and that he did wonder
any should offer to bring in a suspicion
that he intended to rule by an army, and
so bade them go and settle the minds of
the country in that particular. Thus they
are dismissed, to their general great dis-
taste, to see themselves so fooled, and the
nation certain of ruin; while the king,
they see, is only governed by his women,
and rogues about him. They do all give
up the kingdom for lost that I speak to;
and do hear what the king says, how he
and the duke of York do do what they
can to get up an army, that they may
need no more parliaments; and how my
lady Castlemaine hath said to the king,
that he must rule by an army, or all
would be lost. The kingdom never in so
troubled a condition in this world as now.
To Whitehall, and looking out of the
window into the garden, I saw the king,
whom I have not had any desire to see
since the Dutch came upon the wars to
Sheerness, for shame that I should see
him, or he me, after such a dishonour
With him, in the garden, two or three
idle lords; and instantly after him, in
another walk, my lady Castlemaine-how
imperious this woman is, and hectors the
king to whatever she will. She is come
to-day, when, one would think, his mind
should be full of some other cares, having
but this morning broken up such a parlia
ment, with so much discontent, and so
many wants upon him. There is not an
officer in the house, almost, but curses him
for letting them starve, and there is not a
farthing of money to be raised for the
buying them bread."

"Tom Killigrew

1667-8. Feb. 13. hath a fee out of the wardrobe for cap and bells, under the title of the king's fool or jester; and may revile or jeer any body, the greatest person, without offence. by the privilege of his place.”

-saw

Dec. 3. "To Whitehallall the ladies, and heard the silly discourse of the king with his people about nim, telling a story of my lord Rochester."

"The king, dining 1668-9. Feb. 17. yesterday at the Dutch ambassador's, after dinner they drank, and were pretty merry: among the king's company was that worthy fellow my lord of Rochester, and Tom Killigrew, whose mirth and raillery offended the former so much that he did give Tom Killigrew a box on the ear, in the king's presence; which do give much offence to the people here, to see how cheap the king makes himself, and the

nore for that the king hath not only passed by the thing, and pardoned it to Rochester already, but this very morning the king did publicly walk up and down, and Rochester I saw with him as free as ever, to the king's everlasting shame to have so idle a rogue his companion."

1667. Sept. 3. "I dined with Sir G.Carteret (vice-chamberlain); after dinner I was witness of a horrid rating which Mr. Ashburnham, as one of the grooms of the king's bed-chamber, did give Mr, Townshend (officer of the wardrobe), for want of linen for the king's person, which he swore was not to be endured, and that the king would not endure it, and that his father would have hanged his wardrobe man, should he have been served so; the king having at this day no handkerchiefs, and but three bands to his neck. Mr. Townshend pleaded want of money, and the owing of the linen-draper £5000; but still this old man (Mr. Ashburnham), like an old loving servant, did cry out for the king's person to be so neglected. When he was gone, Mr. Townshend told me that it is the grooms' taking away the king's linen at the quarter's end, as their fees, which makes this great want; for whether the king can get it or no, they will run away at the quarter's end with what he hath had, let the king get more as he can."

Waller, in a letter to St. Evremond, mentions Charles's vexation under the pillage he suffered from his ill-paid

household.

"Last night," says Waller, "I supped at lord R.'s with a select party. The most perfect good-humour was supported through the whole evening; nor was it in the least disturbed, when, unexpectedly, towards the end of it, the king came in. 'Something has vexed him,' said Rochester; he never does me this honor, but when he is in an ill humor."" The following dialogue, or something very like it, then ensued:

"The king. How the devil have I got here? The knaves have sold every cloak in the wardrobe.

"Rochester. Those knaves are fools. That is a part of dress, which, for their own sakes, your majesty ought never to be without.

"The king. Pshaw !—I'm vexed! "Rochester. I hate still life-I'm glad of it. Your majesty is never so entertaining as when

'The king. Ridiculous!—I believe the English are the most untractable people upon earth.

"Rochester. I most humbly beg your majesty's pardon, if I presume in that respect.

"The king. You would find them so were you in my place, and obliged to govern.

"Rochester. Were I in your majesty's place I would not govern at all."

The dialogue proceeded, and Rochester retorted, by alluding to the king's habits, and referring him to a prelate. "Rochester. let the bishop of

Salisbury deny it if he can. "The king. He died last night; have you a mind to succeed him?

"Rochester. On condition that I shall neither be called upon to preach on the thirtieth of January, nor on the twentyninth of May.

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The Rev. Mr. Granger, the most charitable, and least prejudiced of biographical historians, says, that “Charles II., though a genius, acted in direct opposition to every principle of sound policy; and, in appearance, without propensity to tyranny, made no scruple of embracing such mea sures as were destructive to the civil and religious liberties of his people. He chose rather to be a pensioner to France, than the arbiter of Europe; and to sacrifice the independence of his kingdom, and the happiness of his subjects, than to

resist his attachment to indolence and pleasure. He, under the veil of openness and candour, concealed the deepest and most dangerous dissimulation. Though he was a slave to love, he appears to have been an entire stranger to the softer sentiments of pity and compassion. He was gay, affable, and polite; and knew how to win the hearts, when he could no longer gain the esteem of mankind."

A cheerful Glass.

On the proclamation of James II., in the market place of Bromley, by the Sheriff of Kent, the commander of the Kentish troop, two of the king's trumpets,

and other officers, they drank the king's health in a flint glass of a yard long.*

ON DRESS, TEMP. CHARLES II.

The Monmouth, or military cock of the hat, was much worn in this reign, and continued a considerable time in fashion.

The periwig, which had been long used in France, was introduced into England

soon after the Restoration.

There is a tradition that the large black wig which Dr. R. Rawlinson bequeathed, among other things of much less consideration, to the Bodleian Library, was worn by Charles II.

Some were greatly scandalized at this article of dress, as equally indecent with long hair; and more culpable, because more unnatural. Many preachers inveighed against it in their sermons, and cut their hair shorter, to express their abhorrence of the reigning mode.

It was observed that a periwig procured many persons a respect, and even veneration, which they were strangers to before, and to which they had not the least claim from their personal merit. The judges and physicians, who thoroughly understood this magic of the wig, gave it all the advantage of length, as well as

size.

The extravagant fondess of some men for this unnatural ornament is scarcely credible. It is related, of a country gentleman, that he employed a painter to place periwigs upon the heads of several of Vandyck's portraits.

Anthony Wood informs us that Nath. Vincent, D. D., chaplain in ordinary to the king, preached before him at Newmarket, in a long periwig, and Holland sleeves, according to the then fashion for gentlemen; and that his majesty was so offended at it, that he commanded the duke of Monmouth, chancellor to the university of Cambridge, to see the statutes concerning decency of apparel put in execution; which was done accordingly.

The lace neckcloth became in fashion in this, and continued to be worn in the two following reigns.

Open sleeves, pantaloons, and shoulder knots, were also worn at this period, which was the era of shoe-buckles: but ordinary people, and such as affected plainness in their garb, continued for a

• Evelyn's Diary, Feb. 10. 1686.

long time after to wear strings in theu shoes.

The clerical habit seems not to have been worn in its present form, before this reign.

Thiers, in his "Treatise of Perukes," informs us that no ecclesiastic wore a band before the middle of the last century, or a peruke before the Restoration. The clerical band, which was first worn with broad lappets, apparently had its origin from the falling band, which is divided under the chin.

The ladies' hair was curled and frizzled with the nicest art, and they frequently set it off with "heartbreakers"-artificial curls. Sometimes a string of pearls, or an ornament of riband, was worn on the head; and, in the latter part of this reign, hoods of various kinds were in fashion.

Patching and painting the face, than which nothing was more common in France, was also too common among the ladies in England. But, what was much worse, they affected a mean betwixt dress and nakedness, which occasioned the publication of a book entitled "A just and seasonable reprehension of naked Breasts and Shoulders, with a Preface by Richard Baxter."

It appears, from the "Memoires de Grammont," that green stockings were worn by one of the greatest beauties of the English court."

In Pepys's very minute and ever interesting Diary, there are many curious particulars relating to dress. He notes down of his wearing of great skirts, and a white suit with silver lace to the coat; and that he had come home a black "camlett cloak with gold buttons, and a silk suit." On a Sunday he called at his father's to change his long black cloak for a short one, "long cloaks being quite out ;" and he tells us of his brother bringing him his "jackanapes coat with silver buttons." This was before 1662, in the March of which year he writes, " By and by comes La Belle Pierce to see my wife, and to bring her a pair of perukes of hair, as the fashion is for ladies to wear; which are pretty, and of my wife's own hair." Next month he says, "Went with my wife by coach to the New (Exeter) Exchange, to buy her some things; where we saw some new-fashion petticoats of sarsnet, with a

• Granges.

black broad lace printed round the bottom and before, very handsome." In May he makes this memorandum :-"My wife and I, in the Privy Garden, saw the finest 'she-shirts' and linen petticoats of my lady Castlemaine, laced with rich k ces at the bottom, that ever I saw." In the same month he walked in the park "where," he says, "I saw the king now out of mourning, in a suit laced with gold and silver, which it is said was out of fashion." In October he put on a new band, which pleased him so much, that he writes, "I am resolved my great expense shall be lace-bands, and it will set off any thing the more." The notes in his Diary, after 1662, of prevailing modes and changes in dress, become more descriptive, and also deserve to be transcribed.

Extracts.

1663, July 13. The king rode in the park with the queen, who wore "a white laced waistcoat and a crimson short petticoat, and her hair dressed à la negligence, mighty pretty. The king rode hand in hand with her, attended by the ladies of honor. Lady Castlemaine rode among the rest of the ladies, and had a yellow plume in her hat. But above all, Mrs. Stuart, with her hat cocked and a red plume, is now the greatest beauty I think I ever saw in my life."

-October 30. "£43 worse than I was last month. But it hath chiefly arisen from my laying out in clothes for myself and wife; viz. for her about £12 and for myself £55 or thereabout; having made myself a velvet cloak, two new cloth skirts, black, plain, both; a new shag gown, trimmed with gold buttons and twist, with a new hat, and silk tops for my legs-two perriwigs, one whereof cost me £3, and the other 40s. I have worn neither yet, but I will begin next month, God willing."

-November 30.

"Put on my best black cloth suit, trimmed with scarlet ribbons, very neat, with my cloak lined with velvet, and a new beaver, which altogether is very noble, with my black silk knit canons I bought a month ago."

1663-4, February 1. "I did give my wife's brother a close-bodied light-colored coat that I had by me, with a gold edging in each seam, that was the lace of my wife's best petticoat that she had on when I married her. He is gone into Holland to seek his fortune."

15. "The duke (of York)

first put on a perriwig to-day; but methought his hair cut short, in order thereto, did look very pretty of itself, before he put on his perriwig."

-April 18. "To Hide Park, where I have not been since last year where I saw the king with his perriwig, but not altered at all; and my lady Castlemaine in a coach by herself, in yellow satin and a pinner on."

1664, June 24. "To the park, and there met the queen coming from chapel, with her maids of honor, all in silver lacegowns again; which is new to me, and that which I did not think would have been brought up again."

November 11. Put on my new shaggy gown with gold buttons and loop lace."

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1664-5, March 6. "To St. James'sdid business with the duke. Great preparations for his speedy return to sea. saw him try on his buff coat and hat-piece covered over with black velvet."

1665, May 14. "To church, it being Whit-Sunday; my wife very fine in a new yellow bird's-eye hood, as the fashion is now."

June 1. "After dinner I put on my new camelott suit; the best that ever I wore in my life, the suit costing me above £24. In this I went to Goldsmith's Hall, to the burial of Sir Thomas Viner [sheriff of London 1648-Lord Mayor 1654]; which hall, and Haberdasher's also, was so full of people, that we were fain, for ease and coolness, to go forth to Paternoster Row, to choose me a silk to make me a plain ordinary suit."

June 11. "Walking in the galleries at Whitehall, I find the ladies of honor dressed in their rid ng garbs, with coats and doublets with deep skirts, just for all the world like mine, and their doublets buttoned up the breast, with perriwigs and with hats; so that, only for a long petticoat dragging under their men's coats, nobody would take them for women in any point whatever; which was an odd sight, and a sight that did not please me."

July 31. "In my new colored silk suit, and coat trimmed with gold buttons, and gold broad lace round my hands, very rich and fine."

September 3. "Put on mv colored silk suit, very fine, and my new perriwig bought a good while since, but durst not wear it because the plague was

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in Westminster when I bought it; and it is a wonder what will be the fashion after the plague is done, as to perriwigs, for nobody will dare to buy any hair, for fear that it had been cut off of the heads of people dead with the plague."

1666, October 8. "The king hath yesterday in council declared his resolution of setting a fashion for clothes which he will never alter."

13. "To Whitehall; and there the duke of York was just come in from hunting. So I stood and saw him dress himself, and try on his vest, which is the king's new fashion, and he will be in it for good and all on Monday next, and the whole court: it is a fashion the king says he will never change."

15. "This day the king begun to put on his vest, and I did see several persons of the House of Lords, and commons too, great courtiers who are in it; being a long cassock close to the body, of black cloth, and pinked with white silk under it, and a coat over it, and the legs ruffled with black riband like a pigeon's leg; and upon the whole I wish the king may keep it, for it is a very fine and handsome garment."

"Lady Carteret tells me the ladies are to go into a new fashion shortly, and that is, to wear short coats above their ancles; which she and I do not like; but conclude this long train to be mighty graceful. 17th. "The court is full of vests, only my lord St. Albans not pinked, but plain black; and they say the king says, the pinking upon white makes them look too much like magpies, and hath bespoken one of plain velvet."

20th. "They talk that the queen hath a great mind to have the feet seen, which she loves mightily."

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November 2. "To the ball at night at court, it being the queen's birthday, and now the house grew full, and the candles light, and the king and queen, and all the ladies, sat; and it was indeed a glorious sight to see Mrs. Stewart in black and white lace, and her head and shoulders dressed with diamonds, and the like many great ladies more, only the queen none; and the king in his rich vest of some rich silk and silver trimming, as the duke of York and all the dancers were, some of cloth of silver, and others of other sorts, exceeding rich -the ladies all most excellently dressed in rich petticoats and gowns, and diamonds and pearls."

November 22. "Mr. Batilier tells me the king of France hath, in defiance to the king of England, caused all his footmen to be put into vests, and that the noblemen of France will do the like; which, if true, is the greatest indignity ever done by one prince to another, and would excite a stone to be revenged; and I hope our king will, if it be so.'

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1666-7, February 4. "My wife and I out to the duke's playhouse-very full of great company; among others, Mrs. Stewart, very fine, with her locks done up with puffs, as my wife calls them; and several other ladies had their hair so, though I do not like it; but my wife do mightily; but it is only because she sees it is the fashion."

1667, March 29. "To a perriwig maker's, and there bought two perriwigs, mighty fine indeed, too fine, I thought, for me, but he persuaded me, and I did buy them for £4. 10s. the two. 31st. To church, and with my mourning, very handsome, and new perriwig, make a great show."

December 8. "To Whitehall where I saw the duchess of York in a fine dress of second mourning for her mother, being black, edged with ermine, go to make her first visit to the queen since the duke of York's being sick."

1668, March 26th. "To the duke of York's house to see the new play, called The Man is the Master; when the house was (for the hour), it being not one o'clock, very full. My wife extraordinary fine in her flower-tabby suit, and every body in love with it; and indeed she is very handsome in it."

There is a curious trait in the personal character of Charles II. "He took delight," says Mr. Evelyn, "in having a number of little spaniels follow him, and lie down in the bed chamber, where he often suffered the bitches to puppy and give suck, which rendered it very offensive, and indeed made the whole court nasty and stinking."

Wilful Livers.

The mark they shoot at, the end they look for, the heaven they desire, is only their own present pleasure and private profit; whereby they plainly declare of whose school, of what religion they be: that is, epicures in living, and Aso in doctrine. Ascham.

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