explain this phenomenon, but the fact is certain.

The eldest sister wore her long black hair down the back, interlaced with strings of pieces of silver. In addition to this and a long necklace, she had a silver band round her throat, which she allowed Mr. Newton to take off and examine, in gratitude for some little coins presented to the little squaller in her lap; it was curious and not inelegant. A very handsome zone of plates of embossed silver, overlapping each other, confined her waist. This was the only pretty Greek girl of the lower orders that it was our fortune to meet; they were generally, in our estimation, very plain, and seem to have resigned their share of beauty to the men, who are, I think I may say, the handsomest race I have ever seen their beauty is not of the countenance alone, but likewise of the figure, which exhibits proportions such as we admire in the works of their ancient

statuaries, and is endowed with the greatest suppleness and agility. It would really be almost as difficult to find a plain man as a pretty woman. There are many savage

countenances, but still, in the ferocious expression may be traced the beauty of the fallen angel. Indeed, we saw reason to believe that the alleged beau ideal of Grecian sculpture was, after all, only a nearer approach to beautiful nature: amongst the moderns I suspect that ideality is often a mere excuse on the part of those who cannot attain the accuracy of reality.

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CHAPTER XV.

PHIGALEIA-COLUMNS OF BASS.E-ANDRITZENA.OLYMPIA.-PYRGO.-EMBARKATION.

[19TH, 20TH, 21st, and 22nd feBRUARY.]

AT Tragoge we were placed between two objects of curiosity, which it was our intention to visit the same day, and take up our quarters at Andritzena at night. These were the ruins of Phigaleia and the temple of Apollo Epicurios, at Bassæ. Sending, therefore, the baggage and servants by the direct route to Andritzena, we made the best of our way to Phigaleia, which is about an hour distant from Tragoge. On approaching, the walls look like those of Messene; but on nearer inspection they are seen to be very rude, and built of

smaller stones; nor are there any square towers as at the former place. Here, also, we found traces of the early style of Messenian warfare and defence, for it is evident that the walls were much more than sufficient to surround an Arcadian town, being nearly as extensive as those of Messene, and well able to shelter the neighbouring peasants with their flocks and herds. There is a small postern in the wall, the arch of which is formed by each successive layer of stones projecting beyond that beneath it, so that the upper layers of the two sides meet at the top. This style of building has been advanced by some as a proof of the antiquity of the place, it being urged that it must have been built before a spheric arch was known in Greece: but the argument will hardly hold good, as it is very likely that the use of the key-stone may have been practised in more civilised parts before it

was employed in the rude hamlets of Arcadia. It was evident, from the whole appearance of the defences, that these walls were merely intended to resist plundering parties, and did not require the niceties and elegancies of architecture. I doubt, indeed, whether, even at the present day, skill sufficient for turning an arch could be found among the natives of Arcady.

From Phigaleia we again returned to Tragoge, and ascended to the region of snow, in search of the fane of Apollo the Healer (Expos), commonly called, in Europe, the temple of Phigaleia, but here known by the name of the Columns of Bassæ. The snow-drifts were in some places very deep, and in general up to the horses' girths. The guide preceded with a long pole, sounding, and every now and then disappeared by a false step. We at last reached the eminence on which it stands, one of the highest points in the