That fet of men were they, who
fferent ages have, by getting into
egiflatures of free countries, pro-
ed the enacting of laws, tending
ccomplish feme particular de-
s, and the next year the repeal of
every laws, and the paffing of
ers of a quite oppofite kind, yet
tendening to promote the fame
at defigns; these men all the while
king fuch prudent uses of those
tradictory laws as, in the course
few years, to fweep a great part
the property of the filly, useless
titude, into the laps of a select
, a tried band of brothers, who,
their abilities and patriotifm, had
n fhown themfelves the only fit
Tons to enjoy wealth, as being
fe who alone could employ it in
moting the fame, the glory, and
happiness of their country? Who,
ay, could achieve fuch feats but
culators?

Who were the makers, or, who
e capable of being the makers of
many useful and patriotic TEN-

LAWS that have, in former
es, rendered many countries fo
ous all over the rest of the world,
caused them to be pointed out
his day, and will for ages yet to
e, as the admired models of JUS-
E and true national HONOUR?—
ne but fpeculators! And who but
- could have fo ingenioufly con-
ed to apply the property of indi-
als of other nations, to the benefit
nemfelves and friends?

That was it even in our own coun-
that has at one time raised a pa-
fecurity above its nominal value
old and filver, and at other times

it down to one tenth part of
value but the myftic touch of
culator?

What could reconcile the jarring
ms of funding and affumption, fo
they could cordially join refi-
e, but the wonderful addrefs of
dividuals
ulators? How could a few in-

3I

delightful employment of our tongues, and which fhines out even in our countenances ?-Oh, my dear country! how ardently do I love thee! how paffionately do I rejoice in continually promoting thy glory and dignity among the nations!--By the facred faith-by the invincible honefty-by the inviolable fecrecy-by the pure difinterefted nefs-by the unparalleled patriotifmn-by the immaculate virtue-and by the most honourable character of a Speculator, I love my dear, dear country, better than weekly premiums, new paper laws, public fecurities, or even than bank fcript!—

No prince in Europe has it more in his power to reduce the monks than the king of Sicily, who has the fole prerogative of being perpetual legate of the fee of Rome. He may, at his pleasure, excommunicate or abfolve all laymen or priests of his kingdom. Neither rank nor dignity, that of a cardinal not excepted, can screen any person from his jurisdiction. The Viceroy of Sicily has alfo the peculiar title of Beatiffimo Padre, (moft bleffed father) given him in all petitions. Though the king has no fuch prerogative at Naples, it muit nevertheless give the reader a high notion of his fpiritual power, which might facilitate many arbitrary meafures against the clergy, if proper ufe was made of it. It has been impoffible till now to introduce the tribunal of the holy inquifition, against which the Neapolitans have leveral times declared themfelves in a most obftinate manner. The want of this tribunal has not in the least abated their devotion, which they ever fhew by

*The Friar in Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet, feems to confirm the anti

by an unremitted exercife of their religious rites, and by keeping their fafts more rigorously than other Italians; by them they wish to atone for the exceffes they have committed during the carnival.

Their carnival is highly fplendid. The great opera-houfe of St. Carlo is the moft magnificent in Italy, and as that of Parma is not fit for ufe, alfo the greatest in Europe. On certain nights it is quite decorated with glaffes, and the boxes illuminated from top to bottom, which makes a prodigious fine appearance. I once faw it in that fplendor. The first impreffion it made upon me was great, but I foon felt the too great fplendor of the illuminations dazzle my eyes, and hinder me from feeing the art of the performance. This theatre is remarkable for its decorations, which do not confift of fide fcenes pushed forwards like in other countries, but of three vaft divifions, which occupy the bottom and the two fides. Upon these the greatest objects are painted in a perspective; a difpofition which has no good effect, and will confequently find few or no imitators. This royal theatre is, like all others, in the hands of managers, whofe contract lafts only one twelve-month, and whofe gain or lofs depends upon circumftances. Naples has no theatre for representing tragedies or comedies, but only for operas, farces, and puppet-fhows, which are uncommonly crowded. The people cannot live without feeing their Polichinello. This part is acted by a Calabrian peafant, who endeavours to difplay his grofs wit, with cracking in his own gibberish, the most pitiful and ill-rhimed jokes.

The Neapolitans may boast of having executed the gigantic project of a fpectacle unique, in the annals of the carnival. It happened about fourteen years ago, and has been repeated every year fince. Vienne, the

famous French painter, was defired to give the plan, and fent it from Rome, his refidence, to Naples. Its object was a masquerade, representing the Great Signior going in proceffion from the Seraglio to the Mofque. The whole court, besides the king and queen, take a part in this magnificent fpectacle, which transports the spectator's mind to the refidence of the Ottomans. He fees the fultan attended by his fultanas and female flaves, all the great officers of state, and the great of the empire, escorted by feveral thousands of Janifaries. Every one of them is in a proper characteristic Turkish drefs. The Pachas, Agas, and Vizir, &c. ftrut about in the richest dreffes, &c. glittering with jewels. As every body exerts himself to shine on fuch a day, and no expence is fpared, it may perhaps be faid, that the imitation furpaffes the fplendor of the original. The proceffion paffes through the principal streets, and though the royal family are among the number of the actors, the king never reprefents the fultan, but appears in the disguise of a Pacha. This parade, which usually takes place towards the end of the carnival, is frequently repeated feveral times.

The Neapolitan nobility are very numerous, and partly very rich. Their vanity is not content with the fimple title of count or marquis, they will abfolutely be princes or dukes. Hence the greatest part of the noble Neapolitan families have that title. Their great number must make them less esteemed, and it would indeed be wrong to compare them to the princes and dukes of other countries; for in fpite of the high found of thefe titles, they are no more than our common noblemen. The fcale of esteem is here, like every where, wealth and expence. There are fome of the princes who live in a file of royal magnificence, while others fubfift

thefe celebrated ruins, all his motions were watched, and this excellent man faw himself treated with fo much baseness and jealoufy, that his enthufiafin for antiquities could not brook it. He therefore fet out without making his obfervations, fo unhappily loft to us and pofterity.

No measures could have been more worthy of barbarians than those taken at the removal of works of art, utenfils, &c. which were brought to Portici, a city built upon the fame lava which buried Herculaneum. In this unfafe place, fituate at the foot of Vefuvius, are kept these treasures, of which had been formed the highest expectations, but which ignorance, neglect, avarice, and turpid envy, have now almost rendered ufelefs. The most precious and valuable part of things found were manufcripts, which are seen scattered about like the meanest lumber, and neglected to the highest degree. They are, properly speaking, rolls which have the form of fmall, round, black pieces of wood, which feemed at first, as if they could not be unfolded, becaufe the heat of the lava had made them fodry, that upon being touched they would go to tatters. At last an ingenious Genoefe friar, of the name of Piaggio, undertook this difficult task, and unfolded the rolls with a machine of his own contrivance. The bufinefs went on very flowly, as there was but a fingle man allowed to affift him. This unfeasonable parfimony, if it deferves any other name than that of the most fordid avarice, has been caufe, that of eight hundred rolls, there are but four unfolded, and even those happen not to be very important. The work was carried no farther, and the remaining MSS. are tiod upon. Thus they are for ever loft to the learned world! There has not yet a line been printed of the contents of the unfolded rolls, and this made the good, able, and induf

trious monk lofe all farther pleasure and courage to proceed in fo toilíome a task.

It is furprifing that the English ambaffador, Sir William Hamilton, who is the great favourite and infeparable companion of the king, has not made ufe of all his influence to raife thefe difficulties, and bring to light all the treasures of literature and art which have been discovered, and must be of univerfal utility. By this he might gain much more merit and fame, than he acquired by his Hypothefes upon mount Vefuvius and other volcanoes; which, in fpite of all effays and obfervations, are, and will remain hypotheses.

There is not a more pleasant journey to be imagined, than that from Naples to these buried cities. The road from the capital to Portici, which is a German league long, is befet with an uninterrupted row of large market towns and country feats. Pompeia lies two German leagues farther. The difference between these two ancient cities is, that Herculanuem lies under and is covered by the ground, but Pompeia ftands free and unincumbered. Its greater distance from mount Vefuvius caufed it only to be covered with ashes and fand; but it was the lot of Herculaneum to be buried in the burning lava. As the latter is difficult to be removed, on account of its hardness, and the town of Portici is juft built upon it, government contented themselves with fuch curiofities as have been found, and the openings that have been dug were, for the most part, ordered to be filled up again. It is neceffary to go with torches deep under ground, to see what the first defire of curiofity has expofed to view. What is ftill open, in memory of this remarkable difcovery, confifts of a well-preferved theatre, from which the statues and pictures have been transferred to the royal museum.

Whoever

Whoever fees that fine theatre, muft express an eager wish to fee it wholly laid open, and with its ornaments; but the lamented fmall degree of love of science, and a fcanty ceconomy, have hindered the accomplishment of fuch a reasonable with but had it been poffible to find here the bones of fome great faint, no expences would have been spared to draw them from the innermoft receffes of the earth, and people might by this time kifs them at pleasure. It muft however be understood, that this honour would only have been the lot of the great, for the lower clafs muft thank heaven if they are allowed to lick the wrappers or frame of fuch holy things.

The indifference with which this fingular discovery is treated, is to be observed to this hour with regard to Pompeia, which would coft no great fums to be laid open. Where the afhes covered it moft, it was never above eighteen or twenty feet, and on other places much lefs. If a good number of hands had been employed to remove them, the whole work might have been finished in a couple of years. But in 1779 there were not above thirty workmen, and thefe would not have been employed, if the Neapolitan cabinet did not find its honour at stake in difcontinuing the works. There is now only one ftreet laid open, though the city was difcovered thirty years ago. The ridicule of this indifference, and the contraft it forms with the rigorous prohibition to fuffer no perfon to copy or poffefs any thing, may be judged by the meaneft capacity.

That part of Pompeia which has been laid open, represents a most interefting fpectacle. It excites fo peculiar an emotion in him, who, with a proper knowledge of that great nation which formerly inhabited this country, walks through the open street of this ancient city, and furveys

houfes, baths, theatres, temples, &c. of which it is impoffible to imagine, that their founders were ftill living feventeen centuries ago. The whole affemblage of ideas caufes, that nothing but reflection can reconcile fo remote an æra to the objects in view; many of which, for inftance houses and utenfils, feem to trace their age only to a few years. It was difcovered, with great furprise, that Naples, from the earliest records was paved with lava; a proof that the breaking out of Vefuvius is far more ancient than generally believed.

The entrance to Pompeia is from the ancient barracks of the Roman troops; upon the pavement the ruts of the wheels of waggons may ftill be perceived. The houses are but fmall, and the doors marked with a characteristic figure in bas-relief, indicating the profeffion and condition of the proprietor. The beft paintings which were found in Pompeia, were upon the walls of a temple facred to the goddefs Ifis. Thefe painted walls have been detached and removed from the edifice.

Whatever is dug out here and in Pæftum, is brought to the king's palace at Portici, and expofed there in a great number of halls. This collection of ancient paintings, metal, and marble ftatues, bufts, urns, dried victuals, and wines of the feventeenth century, befides vafes, utenfils, and all kinds of furniture, is immenfe indeed, and would be fufficient to fill all the great collections of antiquities in Europe, while that of Portici would ftill remain the completeft. The very floor of the halls is paved with antique Mofaic ftone. It exhibits a true labyrinth of art and antiquity, which, from the immenfe number of curious and remarkable objects, admits only of a very tranfitory view. If this collection was put up in Naples, it would at least promote the study of the arts

among