College, and adjoining to St. Edmund's Hall. A more interesting church than this, of its size, it would be difficult to find. It has a crypt of very ancient date-it is generally said, of the ninth century, but probably Norman-which is almost a repetition, in little, of the crypt of Winchester Cathedral. The chancel of the church is Norman, and has a groined roof; the nave is also partly Norman, but it has windows of later date; and the south aisle is altogether of the decorated order. The whole has been restored with the greatest care; and its appearance inside is exquisite, almos the ideal of an English Protestant church. The exterior is no less striking than the inside the Norman parts show traces of the ancient carvings. The porch is a fine one of the time of Henry VI., and above it is a room for a priest. But the most magnificent church in Oxford is St. Mary's, the University Church, so called from the University sermons being preached in it. No one who has been at Oxford can forget this church, from the grand feature its spire forms in every view of the High-street, and, indeed, from all the most visited parts of the city. The church itself is large, and of noble appearance. The various parts, as is so frequently the case in ancient churches, have been built at very different periods; but, internally at least, they harmonise admirably, since the late very judicious alterations and repairs. The arrangements of the Vice-chancellor's throne and the stalls of the University dignitaries, and, indeed, the whole of the fittings, contribute not a little to the general good effect. When, on some "gaudy," all the great men and doctors are assembled in their robes of scarlet and gold, with the rest of the members in full state, the church affords a rare sight to a stranger; but at all times it is an interesting and characteristic one, and should be seen. We suppose the tourist does not need to be told that he will only half see the city, unless he sees it by "the pale moonlight." The effect of the moonlight on this church and spire is delicious: under its influence it brightens in that mystic manner poets often attempt to describe, but no words can adequately convey a notion of. All Oxford, however, is glorious by moonlight. The High-street puts on quite a new splendour. Leaving all the rest of the churches, we shall visit one more edifice, one of the latest and most graceful of the recent architectural additions to Oxford-the MARTYRS' MEMORIAL. It stands at the northern entrance to the town, just by Mary Magdalene Church, being the nearest suitable spot to the scene where the martyrs Cranmer, Ridley, and Latimer met their doom. The history of that event is too familiar to need repeating here. The imprisonment, the mock disputations and trial, the momentary retraction of Cranmer-are all a household tale. The exact spot where the stakes were fixed is not quite certain; but it is believed to have been in the city ditch, opposite Balliol College, where now stands the row of houses in Broad-street. Previous to their execution the prelates were confined in a prison called Boccardo, a gate-house which stood across Cornmarket-street, by St. Michael's Church; it was removed in 1778. From the top of this prison Cranmer is said to have beheld the execution of his old associates. The memorial of their martyrdom was at first intended to be a church; but, for various reasons, it was finally deemed advisable to erect a cross, and, with the surplus funds, to add an additional aisle to the neighbouring Church of St. Mary Magdalene, which should be called the Martyrs' Aisle. The first stone of the Memorial was laid on the 19th of May, 1841, exactly three centuries after Cranmer's English Bible was finished, and "authorised by royal authority" to be read. Messrs. Scott and Moffatt were the architects whose design was selected for execution; and, as it now stands completed, a very beautiful one it is. These gentlemen took for their model the Eleanor Cross at Waltham; but, instead of a mere copy, they produced a work that, in many respects, certainly surpasses their original. It is an hexagonal structure of three stories, mounted on a platform of steps. The total height is 73 feet, and the gradations are so easy, that the whole is at once airy and substantial. The style is the decorated, and every part is enriched with most elaborate carvings. The lower story has the inscription. In the second story, under canopies of exceeding richness, are the statues of the three martyrs, admirably sculptured by Mr. Weekes. The whole is surmounted by an elegant cross. The position of the Memorial is a very happy one, and it is no small ornament to the northern approach to the city. The adjacent aisle of the church is in the same style of architecture, and is made to be, in its ornamentation, allusive to the martyrs. Before he quits Oxford for good the visitor should stroll at leisure over Christ Church Meadow, and peep again into the groves of Magdalen. The Meadow belongs to Christ Church, and is kept in order at the cost of the college, but it is open to the public without any reserve. The Isis and Cherwell bound three sides of it, on the fourth are the college buildings and Merton field. It is a mile and a quarter round; the Wide Walk, a fine avenue of elms-now beginning to decay—is a quarter of a mile long. Gentle reader, if you have not been there, And now we must bid Oxford farewell! take our advice and go as soon as you can. We have told you what is to be seen in it, and you will find the readiest and most courteous access to whatever is worth seeing. The University buildings are generally open. Into and about the college quadrangles you may stroll at pleasure, and about the gardens, too, in most instances. If you wish to look over a college hall or chapel, the porter (whose den is generally in the entrance gateway) will readily open it to you. Then there are several very good Guide-books, with maps attached, that will direct you to every locality: or you may carry in your hand one of Spiers and Sons' pretty cards, which will still more readily indicate the whereabouts of each object. If, however, you prefer a living 'Guide,' you may be suited: the profession is rather numerous in Oxford. There are always some hanging on at the inns and hotels, and about the chief buildings. You may trust to their guidance. They know every crook and corner, and are quite expert in leading to every object of interest. But let us warn the visitor not to suffer either guide-book or guide to persuade him that after a hasty scamper through the city, and a hurried peep into a few of the buildings, he knows "all about Oxford." As we said before, if you were a Scott, and had spent a week in its exploration, with a Heber to guide you, you would find at the end of it that "the time had been too short to convey" more than "a grand but indistinct picture of towers, and chapels, and oriels, and vaulted halls, and libraries, and paintings." But as he hoped, so you will find, that "in a little time your ideas will develope themselves more distinctly;" and you will recollect your visit with a pleasure such as no other city will yield. This is essentially one of those places, in looking on which you are impressed "Not only with the sense Of present pleasure, but with pleasing thought, We need only remind the excursionist of the many places of interest around Oxford, and some of which he should, if possible, visit. First in order stands Blenheim-where the magnificent collection of Rubens's works alone would repay a journey from any part of England-to say nothing of the house and the park. Woodstock itself has now only its glove-shops to boast of, and its recollections of the Fair Rosamond, Geoffrey Chaucer, and Bonny Queen Bess. Woodstock can now be reached from Oxford by train; but it must be remembered that Blenheim can only be seen between eleven and one o'clock; it is open every morning except Saturday and Sunday. Cumnor is three miles west from Oxford, but there is little left now to interest any one. Every vestige of Cumnor Hall is gone. The park of Nuneham Courtney, a few miles below Oxford, on the Thames, is one of the show places of the neighbourhood. It is a delightful sail or row along the Thames to it. At Iffley, about midway to Nuneham Courtney, is a famous old Norman Church. We add a list of the Colleges and Halls of Oxford, with the dates of their foundation, the title of the Principal of the Institution, the number of Members on the books of the University in 1850, and of Students who entered on the books of each College or Hall in 1849: The Great Western Railway Table is given in the number devoted to BATH. The Oxford Junction branches from the main line at Didcot; from Didcot to Oxford is 10 miles: the only intermediate station is Abingdon Road. The extension of the Buckinghamshire Railway, by which the North-Western Railway will be connected with Oxford, will be opened in May: the London excursionist will then have the choice of reaching Oxford by either the Great Western or the North-Western Railway. Master 205 26 Provost 327 33 Principal 96 11 Principal 239 |