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rising ground. Extraordinary as this chası is, the spectator passes it almost unnoticed, as the Weald of Sussex suddenly unfods, as it were, at his feet. If Nature had endeavoured to create a surprise for man, sh could not have done it more effectually than by leading him over the gradual ascent of a vast down, and then suddenly sinking the earth six or seren hundred feet in a bold-scarpment, until it formed a plain almost limitless to the eye, and rich in summer folage and yellow corn. For miles on each side, the Downs descend into this plain in an almost perpendicular manner. It almost looks as though the Titans, piling up the la d against Jove, had advanced so far with their work and then stopped short. If you throw yourself down on the edge of this fearful descent on a fine summer's afternoon, and strain your eyes over the wonderful plain beneath, you gain a sensation of space that scarce another landscape in England can afford. The valley before you stretches north-east to outh-west, a space of no less than 120 miles, commencing at Maidstone and only terminaing at the Hampshire Downs, near Portsmouth. To the north and north-west the eye eaches, it is affirmed, but we confess to some misgivings, as far as Croydon and Norwod; no fewer than six counties being rolled out in this gigantic map at the spectator's feet, and these for the most part garden or park-like in culture and appearance. Those who are curious about the matter, may,

it is said, count upwards of sixty churches dotted over the wide landscape. Turning to the southward, the spectator traces dis inctly the extensive bay sweeping between Beachey Head and Selsey Bill, with Brighton in the centre. Looking over the ocean to the west, the Culver Cliffs of the Isle of Wight, are on a clear day, seen distinctly by the naked eye, although upwards of forty miles distant ; and a vast expanse of occan stretches before you.

Let us now turn to the Devil's Dyke,-why so called we do not know, except on the general principle that anything tremendous-looking is generally ascribed by the common people to Satanic agency. There is, indeed, a legend which accounts for the name ; but it is scarcely worth while to repent it. Of old it used to be called “ The Poor Man's Wall;" a name which arose, perhaps, from the shelter it afforded shepherds from the bleak winds of winter.

The Devil's Dyke, then, is a precipitois valley or, more properly speaking, a gigantic "cutting," of a bowed form, its two ends forming, together with the precipitous terminations of the Downs, an oval-like island of ground, as it were, completely inaccessible at every point but one, and this is fortified with a line of earthwork and a deep vallum. From what we have said, it will be clear to the reader that the spot formed of old a Roman encampment, as it undoubtedly did ; and a more impregnable position could not well have been chosen. In all probability, the Dyke was originally a deep chasm or valley, in the hill, which the invaders rendered still more precipitous by art; indeed, if the spectator looks down upon it when the sun shines along its steep descent on the southern side, he will perceive where the natural round of the hill-side terminates, and the straight steep “ cutting" commences. This Dyke, either side of which slopes at an angle of 45°, is upwards of 300 feet in depth, and is flat and level at the bottom, as though used by the Romans for a road. The space of ground isolated by means of this Dyke is nearly a mile in length, and forms probably the highest point of observation in the county. Here, as upon an inaccessible eyrie, the Roman eagles of old watched the plain beneath them; keeping in awe the Britons, who still hunted in the almost unbroken forest which spread as far as the eye could reach. Where, in all probability, the tents of the soldiers stood, a comfortable little inn is built, and the visitor finds accommodation such as he would hardly expect in the centre of these wild downs. The house is completely supported by the pleasure-parties from Brighton, who ride over to sec the Dyke and the prospect. In the winter none but the shepherds of the ncighbourhood approach it ; and when snow covers the ground, it is nearly as much cut off from the haunts of men, is the Eddystone Lighthouse during the equinoctial gales. Still, to a lover of trees, or one who expects trees to form a part of every

landscape, these downs may be somewhat wexisome. Sturdy Samuel Johnson declared, that he hated the Brighton Downs because itwas “a country so truly desolate, that if one had a mind to hang one's-self for despention at being obliged to live there, it would be difficult to find a tree on which to faten a rope.” Should the visitor experience any such feeling, we counsel him to turn is feet towards Stanmore Park, the seat of the Earl of Chichester, which will be to hm as a very oasis in the desert. It lies three or four miles out of Brighton, on the left of the Lewes road. The mansion is not in any respect remarkable, and the park elsewhere might be but lightly esteemed. Here, however, in this treeless country, these pomparatively young trees assume quite a patrician dignity of character. You gret them with a hearty welcome, and the nightingales make merry music in their branches during the early summer season. The uplands and hollows with the sunny glades, the pleasant distant prospects, the quiet, secluded church of Stanmore which les within the park, and the little gathering of cottages which make up the village of Stanmore, will assuredly render Stanmore Park a satisfactory goal to a ramble thither. Other walks we leave the excursionist to discover for himself, little doubting that he will find right pleasant ones in whatever direction he may wander : only we may just mention, as one of a kind quite different to those we have indicated, but equally delightful, a stroll along the edge of the cliffs, from Kemp Town by Black Rock, to the pretty village of Rottingdean, and thence onwards to Newhaven. The sea-views are-as sea views from lofty cliffs always areglorious.

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TURN we now our faces westward. The railway in that direction is prolonged to Portsmouth : we will avail ourselves of it for a hasty run to Arundel, staying for a brief space at one or two of the stations on the way. Hove, the first station, we may pass by. Hove, now almost a suburb of Brighton, we remember as a little rural village ; but the curious little half-ruinous church is replaced by a smart new one, and the village seems new also. We will on.

Shoreham is the harbour of Brighton, and from this point the steam communication with Dieppe is kept up. The Brighton and Shoreham Railway makes the passage between the two points exceedingly short. Shoreham is divided into the Old and New Town ; the former, which was once a town of some importance, has given place to its younger rival, which is a very improving place, possessing at least 2000 inhabitants. Its tidal harbour has eighteen feet of water in it at spring tides, but it is rather dangerous to enter. The chief attraction of Shoreham to the Brighton folks is its Swiss Garden, a kind of Rosherville, only on a larger scale, with a lake in its centre, with boats for hire. It has a ballroom 120 feet long, by 45 wide, which proves a great attraction on holidays and fète days.


But there is something besides the Swiss Garden and better than it, to be seen at Shoreham—the church, which is one of the finest in the county: and the curious sand-bank which has formed for some three or four miles along the shorc, causing the Adur to run for that distance parallel to it. Old Shoreham consists of merely a few fishermen's cabins, and is a very poor place. But it has a church of early Norman date, the “mother-church of the county,” and of very note-worthy character. A few years back, it was semi-ruinous, but it has been admirably restored, and is well worth visiting. At Old Shoreham, the river is crossed by a wooden bridge, five hundred feet long; at New Shoreham it is crossed by a handsome suspension-bridge, erected from a design by Mr. Clark, the engineer of the suspension-bridge at Hammersmith. The singular “ telescope bridge,” which carries the railway over the Adur, runs between these two.

Up the Adur, about four miles from Shoreham, is Bramber. It formed one of those nests of political corruption, which the Reform Bill swept away. It only contains about thirty cottages : nevertheless, they, in " the good old times," returned two members to Parliament; every house built upon an ancient foundation, gave a vote to its holder, provided he paid scot and lot. From the village the castle is plainly visible, as it stands on very elevated ground. Bramber Castle, the very name it goes under in Domesday-book, is the most interesting relic of the feudal times, near Brighton. It was at one time a most formidable fortress, and commanded the adjacent pass into the country. The ruins are still very extensive, and cover a large space of ground; but no one perfect bit of the stronghold remains. Some portion of it was defensible in the time of the civil wars, and garrisoned by a strong body of Parliamentary soldiers; but when Cromwell attained the supreme power, it was destroyed by his orders, to prevent its forming a stronghold against the Commonwealth at any future time. In the fosse of the castle stands the church, forming, with the fragment of the grey old keep, when seen from the eastern end of the town, a very picturesque termination to the desolatelooking street.

Worthing is a little Brighton, but quieter, and perhaps now genteeler. It has a neat, cleanly look ; good streets, good shops, good hotels, and good lodging-houses. Park Crescent has not many rivals in sea-side watering-places. Some of the mansions and residences are equal to any along the coast. The beach is excellent for bathing, and the visitors appear to be fully conscious of its capabilities.

The climate is warm, equable, and genial; myrtles grow to a large size in the open air, and figs ripen constantly here and in the neighbourhood. If we add, that there are both libraries and bazaars, that the walks and drives are both various and agreeable, and that boats and donkeys and bath-chairs can always be hired, what more need be said ? The church at Worthing is but a modern chapel-of-ease, and has little architectural beauty to attract the visitant. A new church was erected in 1843. But the parish church at Broadwater, a mile from Worthing, is a really fine Norman edifice, with the characteristic Norman carvings, and some splendid monuments to the De la Warr family. examination, and the key may be obtained close by. The tower of Sompting Church, let us add, about two miles from Worthing, is one of the very few existing examples of undoubted Anglo-Saxon church architecture.

A favourite place of resort of the Brightonians and visitors to Brighton, as well as of the good folks of Worthing, is the Miller's Tomb, on High Down Hill. This spot is not far from the Goring station, on the Brighton and Chichester Railway. The eccentric miller to whom the tomb belongs, had a fancy for contemplating mortality; and if one might make a bad joke on such a subject, was always trying “ to be in ” at his own death. For this purpose he had his grave dug on the top of the hill, in the


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year 1776; at the same time he caused his coffin to be made, which he placed upon castors, and by touching a spring, caused it to roll out into his room. This coffin he placed under his bed every night. With his cheerful toy he continued to play for many years, not dying until 1793, when he was in his eighty-fourth year. His tomb is surrounded by iron railings, and it has numerous inscriptions written upon it by his own hand. Oliver left a handsome annuity to his grave, and also to a summer-house which he erected close to it, with the idea that other people would be as fond of contemplating his last resting-place as himself. This annuity, £20 a year we believe, the living have not disbursed in those due repairs desired by the miller,-a matter which perhaps might as well be looked into, for the summerhouse affords a charming view over a very charming country. Yet we are not sure that it is a very suitable erection on such a place, especially as the hill top is the site of an ancient British encampment. In the village of Salvington, close by Broadwater, may be seen a half timber cottage, which is said to be the birth-place of the famous John Selden. But that Selden was born in it may well be doubted, as it bears a date later by seventeen years than that of his birth. Selden, however, was born at Salvington, if not in this house.


THE Arundel station is somewhat more than two miles from the town. Little Hampton lies about a mile on the opposite side. There is not much of interest in Little Hampton. It is half-watering place, half-trading town; but the part in which the summer visitors reside, is nearly half a mile from the trading part. In the season it is a good deal resorted to by persons who like a less fashionable place than Brighton or Worthing. For its size it has a good deal of trade. At certain states of the tide ships of considerable burden can sail up the Arun as far as Little Hampton, which is a mile from the sea. The river is here crossed by a floating-bridge, much on the plan of that at Portsinouth harbour; but this is of smaller size, and is worked by a couple of men.

The walk to Arundel from the railway station is a pleasant one. But the town is better approached from the river than the road. As you look up to it from the river, Arundel is one of the most picturesque towns we know. It is seated on the irregular slope of an eminence, on whose summit stands the noble castle, half hidden among lofty trees; the river winds along its base, reflecting in its clear waters both castle and town. On entering it, the town maintains the impression it first produced. The houses are tolerably well built, the streets are paved and clean. But you must be prepared to find few signs of activity in the streets. It is an ancient town, and its ancient consequence is well nigh departed. The old corporate character, however, is maintained. It has its mayor and aldermen and councillors, as well as its member of parliament. Neither the trade nor the commerce of the place is very great, though vessels of 150 tons can come up to the town, and a canal unites the river on which it stands with the Wey, a feeder of the Thames. There is, however, a good deal of bark shipped, as well as much timber for the use of the dockyards. The customhouse being at Arundel, to a considerable extent keeps up the business of the place, which might otherwise be drawn away to Little Hampton, which is more conveniently situated at the mouth of the river Arun. In 1841, Arundel


contained 2,624 inhabitants. The only public building of recent erection worth noticing is the town-hall, which was erected by the late Duke of Norfolk, at a cost of £9,000, and given to the town in exchange for certain borough properties. This building is one of rather ambitious design-Norman in style and castellated in character. Within it are held all town-meetings, and the great room serves also for balls and concerts. The town, we have said, has many well-built houses; but it owes its somewhat striking appearance rather to the old gable-fronted half timber houses than to the more regularly arrayed brick-built modern ones; and the steepness of the streets brings those queer-looking gables occasionally into very picturesque grouping with each other.

A neat stone bridge, of three arches, over the Arun, unites the main part of the town with the smaller portion, which lies on the opposite bank of the river. If the modern buildings in the town are not of much beauty, an old one will make amends. The visitor who has the least possible liking for an old church, should, on no account, omit to visit that of Arundel. It has suffered somewhat indeed from modern improvement, but is still beautiful. It is built partly of flint and stone; is of the perpendicular style of the sixteenth century; cruciform, with a low tower rising from the intersection of the transepts and nave. The chancel has a north aisle, which was the original Lady Chapel, and which contains many remarkable monuments of the former owners of the castle and others. These monuments are deserving of notice, both on account of their intrinsic excellence as specimens of the sculptural skill of our countrymen at their respective dates, and as examples of ancient costume. One in particular, to a Countess of Arundel, has attracted much attention from the students of costume, on account of the very peculiar head-dress. Charles Stothard, in his very beautiful work on “ Monumental Effigies,” has given clever etchings of some of these monuments. The chapel in which the monuments are contained, had been permitted to fall into decay; but has been partially repaired by the Duke of Norfolk, whose property it is. The south transept now serves the purpose of a chancel. Arundel church belonged originally to a priory of Benedictines, subject to the abbey of Seez in Normandy; but the priory was suppressed in the time of Richard II., and a chantry, or college, for a master and twelve secular canons, with other officers, was founded in its place. It may interest the student of ecclesiastical architecture to mention, that the original high-altar is still remaining in Arundel church, in a perfect state, being, it is believed, the only one in this country which escaped destruction or removal at the Reformation. Southward from the church is a range of buildings, set mingly erected upon the foundation of an ancient structure, which was perhaps the habitation of the above-mentioned canons. It has been fitted up by the Duke of Norfolk, as a Roman Catholic chapel. A hospital, called "Maison Dieu” (God's House), was founded in the time of Richard II., by one of the Fitz-Alans, for the maintenance of as many poor as its revenues would permit; at the suppression of religious houses, its income was estimated at 421. 3s. 8d. per annum. The remains of it are now used as a malthouse.

But the grand attraction of Arundel is, of course, the castle. This castle, by the way, has a very remarkable property, it creates a peerage! giving to its possessor (now the Duke of Norfolk) the title of Earl of Arundel,--a title at present borne by his eldest son. This instance of a peerage attached to the tenure of a house, is now an anomaly. In 11 Henry VI. it was decided, that the tenure of the Castle of Arundel alone, without any creation, patent, or investiture, constituted its possessor Earl of Arundel. *

* Nicolas's "Synopsis of the Peerage," 27; Cruise's “ Digest," vol. iii. 152;" Report of the Lords' Committee respecting Peerage,” 1820.

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