Capucine convent, we might probably have been left behind. In travelling, more even than in the ordinary course of life, it seems that every disappointment has its compensation.

Our intention on leaving England had been to cross from Cadiz to Gibraltar by land, and so to have seen a little of the interior of Spain; but those who were acquainted with the country recommended us not to try it, on account both of the late rains, which had rendered the roads and rivers almost impassable, and of the unsettled state of the country, which made it highly probable that we should be captured by bandits and taken up into the mountains for ransom-an accident which, with all our curiosity about Spain, we had no desire to encounter. It does seem strange, and certainly characteristic of the habits and government of Spain, that between two such cities as Cadiz and Gibraltar, the roads should be liable to such inter

ruptions.

We, therefore, perforce contented ourselves with our packet, and in about nine hours reached Gibraltar.

Sunday, 10th January. This morning we landed at daylight at the New Mole, and thence trudged through the mire to the town. The Rock, as it is appropriately called by the residents, is a lofty promontory, inaccessibly steep on the north and east-the sides facing the Mediterranean and Spain, and connected with the latter by a low sandy isthmus called the Neutral Ground, about 800 or 900 yards across, and very little elevated above the surface of the water: the town is situated at the western foot of the rock, on the edge of that part of the Atlantic called the Bay of Gibraltar, or Algesiras; and extends nearly a mile along the shore, the back part rising so steeply, that some of the streets are but flights of steps.

The space between the southern or Europa Point and the town is occupied

by the Almeda, or mall-the public gardens, and several pretty country-houses, which appear enchanting spots, with their white shining walls and green lawns, bordered with tall hedges of geranium. At the extreme point are some barracks, and a guard is always stationed, the officer in command of which has the amusement of making all ships passing within gunshot, hoist their colours, in default of which they are fired on; and in addition to whatever damage they may sustain, have, if Englishmen, to pay, as we were informed, for the powder and shot expended upon them.

At the back or Mediterranean side, near the isthmus, is a small fishing village called Catalan Bay, for which defences are quite unnecessary, the rock on that side being perfectly perpendicular; and if an enemy should seize it, they are as far from Gibraltar as ever, and might be dislodged by heaving the very rocks down upon

them from the summit. Some Spaniards however managed, it is said, to get up, (though it is to me inconceivable how they did it,) during the great siege, in the night, and killed the guard at the flag-staff, but were at daybreak discovered and made prisoners.

After the comfort of a warm bath, which a sojourn of a week on board ship had rendered even more than comfortable, we went to church. The building is rather handsome, in what may be called, I suppose, the Moorish style, which was probably suggested to the architect as appropriate, by the remains of the Moorish castle -the first kernel of Gibraltar, built in 725, by Tarif, the Saracen general, founder of the city, which was called from him GibelTarif*. This castle was the chief fortifi

* Such is the etymology given by Colonel Drinkwater, in his sketch of the history of Gibraltar, no doubt from good authority; and certainly the name Tarifa on the opposite side of the Strait, gives some countenance to this conjecture. Yet I cannot help

cation down to times comparatively modern. It is supposed that the greater part of it was destroyed when Charles the Fifth modernized the fortifications; little now remains, except one conspicuous tower, not however distinguishable, as far as I could see, by any peculiar architecture.

After church, we wished to see the military excavations and galleries, and for this purpose, sought the town-major's office, where we received a pass, to be countersigned by the colonel of artillery; but he, good man, was at evening service, and we were obliged to defer that visit, and content ourselves with a walk round the fortifications, and to the Neutral Ground. The latter is so low, that if the sea were to rise a few feet, the whole would be under water. The distance between the Spanish lines and the first works of the fortress, is about half a mile; a small village forming the

thinking that the derivation from Gibel-tor, the tower mountain, seems more natural.