knight to 56, the black pawn could then be moved to 48, and take the kright.

26. Do not crowd your adversary's king with your pieces, lest you inadvertently give a stale-mate.

27. Do not be too much afraid of losing a rook for an inferior piece; though a rook is better than any other, except the queen, yet it seldom comes into play, so as to operate, until the end of the game; and it is generally better to have a worse piece in play than a superior out.

28. When you have moved a piece, which your adversary drives away with a pawn, that is a bad move, your enemy gaining a double advantage. At this nice game no move can be indifferent. Though the first move may not be much, between equally good players, yet the loss of one or two more, after the first, makes the game almost irretrievable: but if you can recover the move, or the attack (for they both go together), you are in a fair way of winning,

29. If ever your game be such, that you have scarce any thing to play, you have either brought out your pieces wrong, or which is worse, not at all; for if you have brought them out right, you must have variety enough,

30. Do not be much afraid of doubling a pawn: two in a direct line are not disadvantageous when surrounded by three or four others; three together are strong (as three white pawns on 28, 35, and 37; but four (as 44 in addition) that make a square, with the help of other pieces, well managed, form an invincible strength, and probably may produce you a queen: on the contrary, two pawns, with an interval between (as on 35 and 37) are no better than one; and if you should have three over each other in a line (as 26, 34, and 42) your game cannot be in a worse situation

31. When a piece is so attacked that it is difficult to save it, give it up, and endeavour to annoy your enemy in another place; for it often happens, that whilst your adversary is pursuing a piece, you either get a pawn or two, or such a situation as ends in his destruction.

32. Supposing your queen and another piece are attacked at the same time, and by removing your queen, you must lose the piece, if you can get two pieces in exchange for her, rather do that than retire; for the difference is more than the worth of a queen; besides, you preserve your situation, which often is better than a piece; when the attack and defence are thoroughly formed, if he who plays first be obliged to retire by the person who defends, that generally ends in the loss of the game on the side of him who attacks.

33. Do not aim at exchanges without reason; a good player will take advantage of it, to spoil your situation, and mend his own: but when you are strongest, especially by a piece, and have not an immediate check-mate in view, then every time you exchange, your advantage increases. Again, when you have played a piece, and your adversary opposes one to you, exchange directly, for he wants to remove you: prevent him, and do not lose the move.

34. Every now and then examine your game, and then take your measures accordingly.

35. At the latter end of the game, especially when both queens are off the board, the kings are capital pieces, do not let your king be idle; it is by his means, generally, you must get the move and the victory.

36. As the queen, rooks, and bishops operate at a distance, it is not always necessary in your

attack to have them near your adversary's king; they do better at a distance, cannot be driven away, and prevent a stale-mate.

37. When there is a piece you can take, and that cannot escape, do not hurry; see where you can make a good move elsewhere, and take the piece at leisure.

38. It is not always right to take your adversary's pawn with your king, for very often it happens to be a safeguard and protection to him.— Place a black rook on 5, with a pawn on 45, and the white king on 53, and he will be sheltered by the black pawn from the attack of the rook.

39. When you can take a man with different pieces, consider thoroughly with which you had best take it.

APPLICATIONS TO SOME OF THE FOREGOING RULES.

1. WHETHER you play the open or close game, bring out all your pieces into play before you begin the attack; for if you do not, and your adversary should, you will always attack, or be attacked, at a great disadvantage; this is so essential, that you had better forego an advantage than deviate from it; and no person can ever play well who does not strictly practise this. In order to bring out your pieces properly, push on your pawns first, and support them with your pieces, by which your game will not be crowded, and all your pieces will be at liberty to play and assist each other, and so cooperate towards obtaining your end: and either in your attack or defence, bring them out so as not to be driven back again.

2. When you have brought out all your pieces, which you will have done well, if you have your choice on which side to castle; then consider thoroughly your own and adversary's game, and not only resolve where to castle, but likewise to attack where you appear strongest, and your enemy weakest. By this it is probable you will be able to break through your adversary's game, in which some pieces must be exchanged. Now pause again and survey both games attentively, and do not let your impetuosity hurry you on too far; at this critical juncture (especially if you still find your adversary very strong) rally your men, and put them in good order for a second or third attack, still keeping them close and connected, so as to be of use to each other. For want of this method, and a little coolness, an almost sure victory is often snatched out of a player's hands, and a total overthrow

ensues.

3. At the last period of the game, observe where your pawns are strongest, best connected, and nearest to queen; likewise mind how your adversary's pawns are disposed, and compare these things together; and if you can get to queen before him, proceed without hesitation; if not, hurry on with your king to prevent him: I speak now, as supposing all the noblemen are gone; if not, they are to attend your pawns, and likewise to prevent your adversary from going to queen.

SOME OTHER DIRECTIONS BY AN AMATEUR.

1. THE principal art consists in the nice conduct of the royal pawns; in duly supporting them against every attack; and, when they are taken,

supplying their places with others equally well supported.

2. The royal pawns, after the first moves, should not be rashly pushed on before your adversary's king has castled; otherwise he would castle on your weakest side.

3. Pawns on a front line, when judiciously supported, greatly obstruct the adversary's pieces from entering your game, or taking an advantageous

situation.

4. When you have two pawns on a front line, neither should be pushed forward until the adversary proposes to exchange, then, instead of doing that, push on the attacked pawn; as suppose two white pawns upon 36 and 37, two black on 21 and 22; if the black pawn on 21 be moved to 29, the white on 36 should then advance to 28.

5. Dispose your pawns so as to prevent, if possible, the adversary's knights from entering into your game.

6. When your pawns are separated froin the centre, strive to increase the number on the strongest side; and when you have two in the centre, endeavour to unite there as many as you

can.

7. One or two pawns far advanced at the commencement of a game, may be looked upon as lost, unless very well supported.

8. Until the bishop's pawns have been advanced two squares, the knight should not be placed on the bishop's third square (as from 63 to 46, or 58 to 43), else those pawns would thereby be hindered from supporting others.

9. As long as a direct attack on the adversary's king is not likely to prosper, strive to capture or exchange the men which would prevent it.

10. Whenever you can make an opening with