in good taste; in addition to which, he speaks

English perfectly.

After dinner we all went to a masquerade ball, given by the consul. The gardens were brilliantly lighted with coloured glass lamps, hung in festoons about the shrubs. The music was the worst feature of the evening, being an unskilful band from the Portuguese frigate. But though our ears were disappointed, ample amends were afforded to our eyes, by the sight of the Madeira beauties in their native costume, especially of one to whom a gallant officer in the room had evidently lost his heart.

There was a native dance performed by a party hired for the purpose. The dancers form a circle, and use handkerchiefs to connect the one with the other. It resembles in its slow movement and gestures the Romaic dance

of modern Greece. At last I became tired, and, as nobody else would accompany me, I

groped my way alone to the sea-shore, along the narrow, unlighted streets; and after being roughly challenged several times, by a sentinel on guard near the beach, I stumbled over the sleepy boatmen, who, with my help, launched a boat, in which I was conveyed on board.

I visited a convent in the morning, with Captain Harcourt and the Hamiltons. Through the gratings we were permitted to see the face of a nun, called Clementina, who has long been celebrated as a beauty-too long indeed—as her charms are now rapidly fading away, before the quickening sun of her native island.

We sailed yesterday morning, but it was nearly dark before we lost sight of the white houses, scattered villas, and green woods of

Funchal. An East India ship weighed with us, having first sent on board the North Star to say she desired to be convoyed across the Line, where acts of piracy are very frequent.

CHAPTER III.

VOYAGE TO RIO.

Flying-fish-Harpooning-Heat-Monotony of sea lifeMoonlight at sea-Liquid illumination-Phosphorescent animalculæ-Approach to the line-A suspicious craft-Crossing the line-Neptunian ceremoniesThe trade-winds-Arrival at Rio-Unequalled beauty of the scene.

Saturday, August 6th.

LATITUDE 24° 30', longitude 21° 10′. Rolling along with the wind aft, the very same breeze from the N. E. which brought us to Madeira, but now a steady trade-wind. EastIndiaman in sight, crowding all sail to keep up with us, in spite of our slow sailing.

The flying-fish have begun to appear. They

skim over the tops of the wave, to avoid the vessel, and the large fish in pursuit of them. These last frequently jump high out of the water, in the endeavour to spring upon their flying prey. At first I took these fish for swallows; as their skimming motion, and long fins, resemble that bird when on the wing. They are often half a minute suspended above the sea.

Officers harpooning at the end of the studding-sail boom, but without success. Fish called Albicore, not so large as sharks, are swimming all round the ship. One of them, which was struck several days ago, still keeps with us. We can identify him by an injury on his scales, inflicted by the point of the harpoon.

The glass is at 78° in the shade, and our rate not less than eight miles per hour. I had