The Sitka District

Sitka itself is most interesting, but its situation on the outer edge of the islands, which made it convenient to Russia, puts it at a disadvantage with other Alaskan towns. In 1867 it was the capital of Alaska, the headquarters of the military district and of the Treasury agents, and the recognized centre of Alaskan interests. The establishment of a mission with school and hospital, the location of an agricultural experiment station, its selection as the diocesan residence of Bishop Rowe, and the establishment of cable communication, all added to its importance, while its designation as a naval station, with marine garrison and coal depot, was thought to have insured its prosperity. Suffering from the diversion of trade, it is, however, gradually losing its commercial importance.

Neglected though it be by trade, Sitka is the most interesting Alaskan town for tourists from the southland. It is reached by the inland passage through winding channels, hedged in by emerald shores and fascinating islets that charm every lover of the beautiful and unusual.

The town itself has a striking background of mountains, which is greatly enhanced in attractiveness under the rays of the not too frequent summer sun. Westward one looks on a landscape made beautiful by the graceful blue slopes of volcanic Mount Edgecumbe, especially when from its extinct snow-filled crater there drift down alabaster streaks of newly fallen snow, or when a vanishing storm leaves its

summit adorned by drifting bannerets of fleecy clouds.

The Bay of Sitka can scarce be equalled for scenery: in fine weather for its mingled softness of beauty and rugged picturesqueness, or on dark, stormy days for its stern and sombre grandeur.

On shore first of all are the Indian curio women, with varied wealth of articles-quaint, graceful, and original, or harsh, common, and barbaric, as run the taste and judgment of the visitor.

Sitka town presents few structures of interest beyond the moss-covered log buildings of a past age and former régime and the severely simple Greek church. Externally the church is a green-roofed, bulbous-domed building, with a clock-faced tower and sharp spire, attractive as a novelty to most tourists. Its interior and the furnishings appeal to every one appreciative of unusual art forms or interested in either the method or the outcome of religious systems. To one class appeal the interior arrangements -the holy of holies, the screens, the silver-cased icons, the ancient vestments wrought of cloth of gold, and the artistic silver censers-all enhanced æsthetically by the external and surrounding simplicity of the building itself. In contemplative and susceptible minds, however, rise up holy memories of the Russian priest who furnished the church, Veniaminof, the combined St. Paul and St. John the Baptist of Alaskan natives. The consideration of such a life of consecration, devotion, and self-sacrifice is a benison to any soul.

Turning from Russian to American efforts, the road to other churches and to the Industrial Training School (see Chap. XXIX) winds partly by the shore of the bay and partly by shady paths along Indian River through a park of charm and beauty. Indian River Park is so thoroughly sylvan and so unexpected in its aspects as to be strikingly impressive. One looks skyward through tangled vistas of tall, dark spruces, fragrant yellow cedars, or sombre, graceful pines, and turns his eyes earthward to enjoy the dense flower-covered sward and extended patches of edible berries, in great variety. Meanwhile the ear is filled with the murmur of babbling brook or by sound of gentle waterfall, and gladdened by such melodious and full bird song as is rarely heard elsewhere in Alaska. Unfortunate the Sitkan tourist who has not been there favored by bright sun and these other delightful experiences, for he fell on evil days.

Sitkan Mines

In this district the large Chichagoff gold mine continued in 1924 its productivity, under new ownership. Productive work was continued the same year on the Hirst-Chichagoff, with a five-stamp mill, and the installation of a ten-stamp mill at the Apex ElNido Mine, near Lisianski Strait. While the prospecting of nickel-bearing copper has not reached a commercial value stage, further exploration is justified. The nickel occurs with pyrrhotite and chalcopyrite. Widely separated nickel deposits are found in Bo

hemia basin, Yakobi Island, and at Surge, Tanakis, and Snipe Bays. The gypsum mine on Chichagoff Island has been profitably operated for several successive years. Altogether the mining future of the Sitkan District seems most encouraging.

Skagway District

The construction of the Alaska Railroad decreased the commercial importance of the town of Skagway, at the head of Lynn Canal, the American ocean terminus of the White Pass and Yukon Railway.

Placer mining continues on an individual and small scale in the drainage basin of the Chilkat at Lituya Bay and a few isolated camps.

It is to be noted that the gold production of southeastern Alaska is almost entirely from lode. In this connection the Geological Report of 1924 states: "In 1924, 29 quartz mines in Alaska produced $2,750,000 in gold, an increase of more than $400,000 over the output for 1923. This increase is largely credited to the Alaska-Juneau mine."

CHAPTER IX

THE BERING SEA REGION

UNDER this heading are included the bays, sounds, and sea north of the Aleutian chain, the Seward Peninsula, the Kuskokwim watershed, and the Alaskan coast, except the lower Yukon Valley. It has been a matter of surprise that this remote and desolate region-arctic and subarctic-shut out from the rest of the world for the greater part of the year, should be the most productive of the Alaskan districts. Yet such is the economic story of this vast area.

From its shores and waters have come the fur seals (see Chapter XIV) and other sea animals, the salmon (see Chapter XV) and whale fisheries, the furs of land animals, the reindeer herds, the placers and silver-bearing ores of the Kuskokwim, and the wonderful bonanzas of Seward Peninsula, which in the aggregate exceed in value the products of any other Alaskan region.

Placer Mining in Alaska

Since 1880 the placer mines of Alaska have yielded $234,000,000, and as the first great stimulus to this enormous industry was made on the shores of Bering Sea, it is well to summarize the various phases as seen by the Alaskan expert, Brooks.

He says:

Other bonanzas than those of Nome were soon discovered, and by 1906 the value of the annual output of placer