I am now enabled to describe the complicated limits of the country of the Afghauns. On the north, it has Hindoo Coosh, and the Paroamisan range. The Indus is its boundary on the east, as long as that river continues near the hills; that is, as far as lat. 32 20'. The plain on the right bank of the Indus, south of lat. 32' 20', is inhabited by Beloches; but the chain of Solimaun, with its subordinate

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ranges,

and the country immediately at their base, belongs to the Afghauns. The hills, which have been mentioned, as bounding Seeweestaun on the north, form the southern limits of the country of the Afghauns. The Afghaun country immediately to the north of these mountains, does not at first extend so far west as to reach the Table land of Kelaut; but it afterwards shoots past it on the north, and reaches to the desart, which is its north-western boundary. It is difficult to render this irregular boundary intelligible; but, it is still more so to give, in a general description, a notion of the countries which it comprehends. They are so various in their level, climate, soil, and productions, that I shall not attempt at present to distinguish them; but, shall only remark, that the whole of Afghaunistaun, west of the range of Solimaun, is a Table land, lying higher than most of the neighbouring countries. Hindoo Coosh, which is its northern bulwark, looks down on the low lands of Bulkh. On the east, it is equally elevated above the still lower plain of the Indus. On the south, it overlooks Seeweestaun; and, the deep valley of Bolaun, on the south-west, runs between it and Belochistaun. On the west, indeed, it slopes gradually down to the desart; and, on the north-west, it loses its appearance of elevation before the Paropamisan mountains. The Table land of Kelaut, ought perhaps to be considered as a continuation of that I have just described; but, the low country, extending to the desart, and the valley of Bolaun, so nearly divide them, that it will be convenient to treat them as separate. The Afgnauns have no general name for their country; but, that of Afghaunistaun, which was probably first employed in Persia, is frequently used in books, and is not unknown to the inhabitants of the country to which it applies. I

shall, therefore, use it in future to express the country, of which I have just described the limits. As much of the Afghaun country as lies to the west of the parallel of Mookloor, in longitude 68° 30′, is included in the celebrated and extensive province of Khorassaun· The remaining part of Khorassaun, (the boundaries of which may be loosely fixed by the Oxus, and the desart, through which that river runs ; the Salt Desart; and the Caspian Sea), belongs to Persia. Kermaun is said to have been once included in Khorassaun, as Seeweestaun frequently is still.

CHAP. II.

MOUNTAINS OF AFGHAUNISTAUN.

I

HAVE already described the general course of the great ridge of Hindoo Coosh, and have traced the lower ranges on its southern side as far east as the Indus. I shall now proceed to a particular description of the part which bounds Afghaunistaun on the north.

From the Indus to longitude 71°, it pursues a westerly course; but, from that point, its direction becomes uncertain. To a person viewing it from the south, the snowy ridge appears to make a considerable curve towards him: but, our information leaves it doubtful, whether it does make such a curve, whether the principal range continues its westerly course, and sends out a branch towards the south, or whether it is crossed by Beloot Taugh, which joins it at the point opposite to the place where the mountain appears to bend.

From the Indus to this curve is the part of these mountains with which I am best acquainted, having seen it for some months from Peshawer; and, a particular account of it, may serve to give an idea of the rest of the range.

On entering the plain of Peshawer, on the 24th of February, 1809, four ranges of mountains were distinctly seen on the north. The lowest range had no snow. The tops of the second were covered with it, as was the third, half-way down.

The fourth was the principal range of the Indian Caucasus, which is always covered with snow, is conspicuous from Bactria, and the borders of India, and is seen from places far off in Tartary. We first saw these mountains at the distance of one hundred miles; but, they would have been visible long before, if the view had not been shut

out by the hills through which we travelled *.

In appearance, however, they were very near. The ridges and hollows of their sides were clearly discernable; and, this distinctness, joined to the softness and transparency which their distance gave them, produced a singular, and very pleasing effect.

The snowy range is by no means of equal elevation, being in some places, surmounted by peaks of great height and magnitude, which do not taper to a point, but rise at once from their bases, with amazing boldness and grandeur.

The stupendous height of these mountains; the magnificence and variety of their lofty summits; the various nations by whom they are seen, and who seem to be brought together by this common object; and the awful and undisturbed solitude, which reigns amidst their eternal snows; fill the mind with admiration and astonishment, that no language can express. The height of one of these peaks was taken by Lieutenant Macartney, and appeared to be 20,493 feet. If this measurement be correct, the peaks of Hindoo Coosh are higher than those of the Andes. † The measurement made by Lieutenant Webb, in the eleventh volume of the Asiatic Researches, gives a still greater height to those of Hemalleh. The height of Hindoo Coosh, is undoubtedly very great; since we could perceive no diminution in

I have seen the ridge of Imaus (or Hemalleh), at a distance of 150 miles; and, I believe, they were to be seen at 250.

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+ (The following is Lieutenant Macartney's account of the operation, which he gives with considerable distrust). "I took the distance of some of the most remarkable peaks, in "the ridge, by cross bearings, with the theodolite; and found, at the distance of one hundred "miles, the apparent altitude of some was 1° 30', which gives a perpendicular height of 20,493 feet. But, of course, this could not be positively depended on for so small an angle, "and so great a distance. The most trifling error, which might not appear in the correc"tion of the instrument, would here make a great difference. It was, however, so correct, "that I have taken the sun's altitude, and the latitude came out within two of the latitude "taken with the sextant; and, the distance may be depended on, for I had a base line, mea"sured of forty-five miles, which gave a good angle."

the snow on any part of the range in the month of June, when the thermometer in the plain of Peshawer was at 113o.

The inferior ranges decrease in height, according to their distance from the principal chain. The tops of the highest are bare; but their sides, and the whole of the lower ranges, are well wooded. Though three lower ranges only are distinguishable when seen from the plain, many more are probably passed before reaching the snowy ridge. There is a plain between the first and second ranges ; and, it is probable, that narrower and more elevated valleys separate the higher ranges, till the increasing roughness of the country makes them scarcely observable; and, that the distinction between the ranges, is at length lost in a confused mass of mountains.

There are three branches, which stretch from the great ridge at right angles to the inferior ranges. The first is close to the Indus, and ends at a point opposite Torbaila.

The next, which is called Ailum, and is of considerable height and breadth, is divided from the former by the valley of Boonere. The third is divided from Ailum by the valley of Swaut, into which another valley, called Punjcora, opens from the north-west. The last branch is much broader than either of the others, and extends so far to the south as to join the roots of Suffaid Coh, the most northerly point in the range of Solimaun. Though not high, it is steep, and rugged. It is covered with pine forests, and inhabited by the Afghaun tribe of Otmaunkhail. Between it and the southern projection, is the low and hot plain of Bajour.

The lower hills may be imagined from a description of those in the district of Swaut. In that district snow lies on them for four months in the year. Their tops have but few trees, but their sides are covered with forests of pine, oak, and wild olive; lower down are many little valleys, watered by clear and beautiful streams, and enjoying a delicious climate. Their sides afford a profusion of European fruits and flowers, which grow wild in the utmost variety and perfection. The hills bear many pretty sorts of fern and similar

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