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THE

CHAPTER XXV.

Character of the Persians.

H E people of Sheeraz are supposed to be the most accomplished of the Persians; the name of Sheerazee stamps some degree of credit on the possessor, while that of Isfuhanee is expressive of deceit, cunning, and fraud; and this seems to be the common and established opinion. The people of Sheeraz appeared to me mean and obsequious to their superiors, and to their equals, if they had a prospect of advantage; but invariably arrogant and brutal in their behaviour towards their inferiors: always boasting of some action they never performed, and delighted with flattery, although they are aware of the imposition. I have repeatedly heard them compliment a person, either in his hearing, or in the presence of some one who would convey this adulation to his ears; and the instant that he has departed, their praises have turned into abuse, and they have, with malicious pleasure, exposed the character they not a moment before praised with fervent servility. Indeed, so loth are the Persians to admire any thing from which they can derive no advantage, as to confine themselves, in their expressions of admiration, to Bud neest," It is not bad;" but if the property be their own, no words or description could do justice to its excellencies.

Their expressions of esteem or compliment are conceived in the most fulsome terms. "Your presence has made all Persia a garden: "Persia is unworthy of your acceptance." As an instance of this,

I recollect the Sheikh, at Bushire, remonstrating against the rapacity of Chiragh Ulee Khan, the governor of Sheeraz, when he was informed of the arrival of his principal secretary. He began by enquiring after the governor's health; and when he was told that he had quitted the city, he readily observed, that now Sheeraz was worthless (Pooli seeah nu mee urzud), that it had lost the only ornament it possessed. Many more instances might be given, for they are perpetually occurring, but one is sufficient.

The military men in Persia are constantly boasting of the feats of their prowess, although it is probable that they were never in an action in their lives, or, engaged in any expedition of the least danger. They cannot be denied, however, the virtue of courage, or at least of impetuous fury, for the lower orders frequently engage themselves in quarrels, which are often attended with bloodshed, and which they might have avoided with propriety. It is surprising how apt the military men (particularly those who come from the northern parts of Persia), are to quarrel; and upon the least provocation they resort to the sword. Their friends probably join in the fray; and it possibly may happen that two or three persons lose their lives before the dispute can be determined.

The better order of people, in Persia, are divided into two classes, the military and officers of state, and the merchants. The former, who receive a certain annual sum, which they are accustomed to expend, are excessively liberal, and rarely think of amassing any wealth for their posterity. The merchants, however, are always intent upon gain, it is the only subject which occupies their thoughts; and such is the ascendancy their penurious habits have gained over them, that they cannot forego an opportunity of the slightest advantage, though attended with disgrace and infamy. They have in general made their fortunes on the slightest foundation; and the consequence is, that their penury has proportioned itself to their prosperity. The military men are rapacious, and will be guilty of

excessive meanness in their pursuit after money; but whatever malpractices they may be guilty of, and I believe they are guilty of many, it is never with a view of retaining their acquisitions.

It must be confessed that the Persians are pleasing and entertaining companions; but not the least reliance is to be placed on their words or most solemn protestations. You should always, therefore, be on your guard against their insidious offers; and to be so, it is necessary to distrust all their declarations. The manners of the Persians are formed, in a great degree, on the principles of Lord Chesterfield; they conceive it their duty to please: and to effect this, they forget all sentiments of honour and good faith. They are excellent companions, but detestable characters.

An enquiry into the language of a nation often marks the character of its inhabitants. This has been adopted by Hume and some other authors, in their enquiries into the manners of the Romans. I shall observe two circumstances regarding the Persians. A people who are given to a life of robbery and rapine, will necessarily have a number of words which express the various modes of plunder; and, excepting the Marrattas, I do not believe there is a language where the different gradations of robbery, to the perpetration of the most atrocious crimes, are more distinctly marked. The word Dustmal may give some notion of their habits of cleanliness. It signifies any thing for wiping the hands; and is applied to this purpose by the Persians, as well as being used for a pocket handkerchief. As they eat with their hands, a towel is indispensibly necessary; but they have no word to express an handkerchief, nor have they any other piece of linen for this purpose.

The Persians have but a faint notion of gratitude, for they cannot conceive that any one should be guilty of an act of generosity without some sinister motive. They reason upon their own feelings; and as they are conscious that they never perform any action but with a view to their own immediate advantage, they naturally infer

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that these motives operate with similar effect upon every other individual. Philosophers have held it for a maxim, that the most notorious liar utters a hundred truths for every falsehood. This is not the case in Persia; they are unacquainted with the beauty of truth, and only think of it when it is likely to advance their interests. They involve themselves, like the spider, in a net of the flimsiest materials, but which neither offers commencement nor end to the eye of investigation.

The generality of Persians are sunk in the lowest state of profligacy and infamy; and they seldom hesitate alluding to crimes which are abhorred and detested in every civilized country in the universe.

I am not conscious of having given an unfaithful picture of the character of the Persians. I have forborn to illustrate the extent of their vices; their virtues consist in being most excellent companions; and in saying this, we say every thing which can be advanced in their favour. Custom has doubtless made many of their vices appear to them in the light of foibles, but the sanction of custom will not soften the darker shades of the Persian character. The same argument cannot be advanced for them which has been urged in favour of the Greeks, for they have laws which stigmatize the crimes they commit.*

See Smith's Moral Sentiments; also Hume.

ON

CHAPTER XXVI.

N the 31st of July I left Sheeraz on my return to Bushire. By the advice of the muleteer, and wishing to travel by a new route, I was induced to take the road by Feerozabad. This route is circuitous, and consequently not frequented by the caravans. We reached Doulutabad by one in the morning; our Munzil-Gah was in a westerly direction from Sheeraz, distant five fursukhs, and near a small village surrounded by a number of excellent gardens. Ther mometer 86.

August 1st. Our route this evening was nearly south, and our encampment five fursukhs from our last Munzil-Gah. We found shelter in the ruins of a Surae, half a mile from Kuwur. The night was disagreeably cold; and I could not refrain from reflecting, that I had to prepare myself for the dust and heat of the Gurmseer. Thermometer 94.

2d. As you approach the hills, the road becomes stony, rugged, and dangerous; this circumstance obliged us to hasten our march, that we might make some progress before night. It was with much. difficulty, and not before I lost two horses, that we arrived at Khajue, five fursukhs. I cannot determine our route; it was probably south-west.

3d. The road to Dihbur was infamous; in many places we believed it to be passable, because we found it to be so. Dihbur is a small village, one fursukh from Feerozabad. Feerozabad was formerly a city of considerable repute, and famous for the profligacy of its inhabitants. You will hardly find a house that has not

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