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this the West Highlands* of Scotland. tion live too farr from the church And now I was in the wildest country to go home and return to church in I ever yett travelled into, I went over time. Their church and way of serabundance of barren heaths, and moor- vice putts me in mind of a story of a ish grounds, and over vast high hills, Scotchman that lived far from church, and saw at a distance many inore, and and having hardly ever been there, at the tops of severall of these hills I was prevailed with to go and pray to saw snow lying in heaps, tho' there God Almighty ; and afterwards gave had fell none since the day I came from an account of his being there, and by Yorke; but it seems it sometimes lyes my saul mon (says he), it is like a on these hills the year round, and they great bawrne; and when Ise were are seldom free from snow on them 2 gang’d in, a man came to me and tolds months in a year, and houses are me Ise must voile my bonnett, and Ise mighty rare here ; however, I gott safe ask'd him whose house that was ? he to Crawford John or Crawford Jhon, a sayd it, was God's house. And Ise small poor village of 2 or 3 poor houses, told him I would speake with the masand a poor church; one of which ter of the house then, but he chid me; houses happened to be a minsh-house, and afterwards (says he), the people or ale-house, and here I sett up my were muckle merry, but the deel a horse in a little hurdled confiness of a drop of drink they had. And how then stable, hardly fitt for a hog-house, and (sayd his friend)? Why then (quotlı went into the minsh-house. The he), a dawpper lad got up into a cuphouses here are of much such build- board, and talked by himself for twa ing as those at Dullwish-wells near hours, and the deel take me (says he), London, the walls are either of earth if ever Ise gang there again. or loose stones, or are radled, and the I minded that most of the men, esroofes are of turfe, and the floors of pecially the meaner sort, wear thrumb the bear ground; they are but one caps in Scotland, which they call bonstory high, and the chimney is a hole netts. in the roofe, and the fire-place is in From this place I went over mighty the middle of the floor ; their seats and hills, sometimes being amongst the bedds are of earth turfed over, and clouds, and sometimes amongst boggs radled up near the fire-place, and (I think without seeing a house or any serve for both vses; their ale which body but a poor sheppard's boy), to they sell is pale, small, and thick, but Elwin ffet, * a poor sorry place of 2 or 3 at the most ordinary minsh-houses they houses ; and here is a rapid river that comonly have good French brandy, and tumbles over a rocky bottom, tho' it often French wine, so comon are these is not deep. Of the west side of the French liquors in this country. This river is a minsh-house, and another village is situate in a bottom aomngst small house or rather hovell ; of the high hills; the church indeed is of east side a somewhat better house, somewhat better building then the which I tooke for the minsh-house houses, but such an one in most parts (being told before that there was one of England would be taken for a barne. here), but it seems was the Laird of This being Sunday, I went to church Newtoun's house ; and had it not been here, and found the church mightily that his lairdship should have wanted crowded, and 2 gentlemen's seats in it a house, I had some thoughts of bringwith deale tops over them. They be- ing it away on my back. gin service here about 9 in the morn- I should not have travelled on this ing, and continue it till about noon, day, being Sunday, but I was willing and then rease, and the minister goes to get out of this country as soon as I to the minsh-house, and so many of could; oh, the curse that attended it! them as think fitt, and refresh them- I was got past Elwin ffet, and the selves ; and the rest stay in the church- road, or rather sheep tracts (for since yard, for about half an hour, and then I left Douglas I hardly saw any other) service begins again, and continues till were so obscure, I could hardly find about 4 or 5. I suppose the reason of a way, and the rocks were so thick this is, for that most of the congrega- and close, that I had often much ado

to get myself and horse between them. * Not the Highlands of Argyleshire, now

Now I were on a vast precipice of a called the Westlands, but the mountainous country at the head of Clydesdale.

* Elvan-foot.

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high rock, with the river running un- ing, and thought this a very long night, der me, and anon I was in a bogg, and still it rained and was very dark, and by and by my horse began to tyre and sometimes it came in my head and jade. I gave him good words, and what I should do if it proved a foggy now and then a blow, but he still morning ; for I know not to which 'minded little, and what was worse, hand I had mist my way, and I had going down a very high boggy hill neither hedge or ditch to guide me. of the other side of the sun, there I applyed to patience, my old acquaintcame a dark cloud between the sun

ance, and spent the night as chearand me, and I left my old friend and fully as I could. As the day began to constant guide, and could not tell dawn, I hop'd it fair, but fear'd a fogg south from north, or east from west ; sometimes. I thought I saw a light and out of this cloud fell such a shower at a distance, and sometimes a house, of rain, that I was wett thro' pre- but plainly discovered that if I had sently; and it grew so suddenly dark, gone lower down the hill, I had gone that I could hardly see my hands. I into a deep bogg by the river side. I got down and groped with my hands went a mile one way, and then back for a path, but quickly found the again, and a mile the other, but could sheep-tracts had misled me. I began see neither house or road ; at length to sink in halfe way vp the legg, and I resolved to go on eastward, for that my horse more, and now and then I seem'd the best country, and the tumbled over a bank, but what sort morning happened to prove fair, till of ane I could not tell; and now I at length I came to a steep cliffe of a ranne so near the river that I heard it stone-rock, and just under it saw a roar dismally, and did not know but village of 10 or 12 houses. I went every step I went I might tumble round the rock, and came down from down a steep cliffe, or fall into the it, and calld at several houses, but river annon. This I thought dread- nobody would rise to direct me; but ful enough, and I had eat nothing 'I could hear them grumbling in bed. since morning, or hardly drank, and My patience had served me almost all very wett I was, and indeed had not it would, and I threatened to break the least occasion for a mistress. I their windows, but could not find a fell to hallowing, but could gett no

pane of glass in the town. I then fell answer, and farther towards the river to unthatching a house, and pulled off I durst not go; and considering that

some of the turfs, at which a fellow I was in the South Highlands, and

came angrily out; but when he saw did not know how I might be besett, me, was very humble, and directed I moved farther vp the hill side-ways me over this small river Annan, and of it, from the place where I had holy in the way to Moffat, for which I relowed, and had like to have tumbled warded him, and so this 17th of April down somewhere, but I know not 1704, I got to Moffat. This is a small where ; and when I now gott some- straggling town among high hills, and where off, I hung my pistolls on my is the town of their wells. In sumer wrist, and slipt my horse's bridle, to time people comme here to drink walet him seek the earth, for grass there ters, but what sort of people they are, was hardly any, and I lean'd vpon or where they get lodgings, I can't tell

, his saddle to compose my selfe to for I did not like their lodgings well sleep, but when I began to sleep, my enough to go to bedd, but got such as harness failed me, and so I tooke off I could to refresh me, and so came the saddle and layd it on the ground, and with my knees on the harnessing From hence I came through Pudeen, layd along on the saddle, but my knees and to Annan or Annand House, both and harnessing sunk into the bogs, small villages, and at the last place I and the weather beat into my neck, dined at a good Scotch house, and so so that this way would not do neither. Wherefore I layd the saddle on the I lay. It had rained all this day from

came to Lockerby, a small town, wbere horse again, and presently I thought I before noon till night; and to comsaw something black burst by me, I cocked a pistoll, and threatened hard,

Those who know the waste mountains but thought fit to move from this between Elvan-foot and Moffat, will scarce place too further vp the hill. I often think the traveller's account of his distresses groped my watch, and wish’t for morn- much exaggerated.

away *.


fort me more, the room wherein I was to lay was overflown with water, so that the people layd heaps of turf

No II. for me to tread on to gett from the door to the fire place, and from thence MR EDITOR, to the bed ; and the floor was so worn I SHALL, without preface or preamble, in holes, that had I tread aside a turf, forthwith proceed to the continuation I might have sunk up to my knees in of the Account of the Fife Gypsies mudd and water, and no better room from your Number of December last. was to be had in this town; nay, what Hugh Graham, brother to Charlie was worse, my room had but halfe a Graham who was executed at Perth, door, and that to the street; and the was, with a small knife, in Aberdeenwall was broke down between the shire, stabbed by his own cousin, John gable, so that the room lay open to Young. These two powerful gypsies the stable. This was but a comfortless never fell in with one another but a night's lodging after my last on the wrestling bout commenced. Young bogg, but I was forced to bear it so, generally came off victorious, but layd, 2 case of pistolls (that I had Graham, although worsted, would with me) by my bedd's head, and neither quit. Young nor acknowledge slept dogg's sleep till morning, and his inferiority of strength. Young had the advantage of overhearing if frequently desired Graham to keèp out any one attempted to steale my horse : of his way, as his obstinate disposition and yet the people here had French and temper would prove fatal to one wine, though it was always spoiled for of them some time or other. They want of being well cellar'd.

however again met, when a desperate I went out early in the morning the struggle ensued. Graham was the agnext day, and came through Arkle For- gressor ;-he drew his knife to stab ken, (Ecclefeachen) a small village, and Young, but Young wrested it out of so to Allison Bank, another small vil- his hand, and laid his opponent dead lage, and the last I was at in Scotland; at his feet by stabbing him in the upand here I dined, and soon after setting per part of the stomach, close to the out for Carlile, I passed a small stream, breast, a place at which the gypsies and was to my joy on English ground, appear generally to strike in their and hope I shall never go into such á quarrels. In this battle the female country again. I had heard much talk gypsies, in their usual manner, took of it, and had a mind to see it for a conspicuous part, by assisting the variety, and indeed it was so to me, combatants on either side. Young for I thank my God, I never saw such was one of seven sons, and although another, and must conclude with the he was about five feet ten inches poet, Cleveland, that

high, his mother called him “ the Had Cain been Scott, God sure had changed dwarf o' a' ma' bairns." He was conhis doom,

demned, and hanged at Aberdeen, for Not made him wander, but confined him the murder.* home.

This man wrote a good hand, and Though the people of this country are the country people were far from being poor, they are proud, and scem to displeased with his society while he have a spirit for glory and handsome

was employed in repairing their pots things, would their soyle and scitu- and pans in the way of his vocation. ation give room for it, and were not Sarah herself, his mother, was of the the meaner sort so kept under as they highest tinklér mettle,-she lost a fore are by the great men; and were there finger in a gypsey fray. not some olld hindrances, for the com

Peter Young, another son of Sarah mon people hold by very slavish te- Graham's, was also hanged at Abernures of the great men of the coun- deen, after he had broken a number try.

of prisons in which he was confined.

He is spoken of as a singular man; (* The preceding extract forms about one half of the whole tour. As the other part

and such was his generosity, that he of the MSS. referring to the north of England, contains also some singular observa. I believe the John Young here mentions, the publisher of this Magazine has tioned, and the individual of that name noprinted a few. copies of the whole, for the ticed in the First Number of your Magause of the amateurs.)

zine, is one and the same person. VOL. II.

3 Y


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These gyr

always exerted himself to the utmost among the Arabians is to set his fellow prisoners at liberty if signifying, it seems, in the Arabic, possible, although they happened not robbers. This is a very singular cointo be in the same apartment with him cidence both in the sound and signifiin the prison. The life of this man cation of these two expressions. The was printed and published about the most prominent features of the gypsey time of his death. When any one ask- character are certainly theft and petty ed old John Young where his sons robbery, and it is somewhat remarkwere, his reply was, They are a' able, that the word or expression hanged.

which signifies a thief or robber, should I was informed by a gentleman in be almost the same in the Hindostanee, Edinburgh, that this gang of Youngs in Arabic, in the gypsey language on were related to the Yetholm gypsies, the continent, and in the gypsey lanwhich proves the connexion between guage at Lochgellie. the gypsies of Lochgellie and those on I believe it is not generally known, the Scottish borders, and shews that that the gypsies have actually among they are all sprung from one common themselves outcasts and vagabonds, as stock.

are in all other societies of mankind. Jenny Graham, sister to the Grahams The outcasts and vagabonds are by already mentioned, was kept by a gen- them termed waffies." tleman as his mistress ; but although sey waffies must be in a most deplorshe was treated with affection, such able condition, and are certainly in was her attachment to her old wan- the lowest degree of human degradadering, way of life, that she left her tion. They seem to be in the same protector and wealth, and rejoined her predicament as those individuals who erratic associates in the gang. She have lost their cast in Hindostan. was a remarkably handsome and good- The Grahams who were at Lochlooking woman, and while she tra- gellie, the Wilsons who were at Rapversed the country, she frequently rode loch near Stirling, and the Jamisons upon an ass saddled and bridled. She who were once in the neighbourhood of was herself sometimes dressed in a blue Linlithgow, were all, by the female riding-habit, with a black beaver hat. side, immediately descended from old It was generally supposed, that the Charlie Stewart, a gypsie chief, at one stolen articles of value belonging to period of no small consequence among the family were committed to the care these hordes. When I asked if the of Jenny,

Robinsons, who were once in Menstry, Megg Graham, another sister of were related to the Lochgellie band, these Grahams, is still living, and is the answer which I received from the a woman of uncommon bodily strength; gypsey, my informant, was, the tinkso much so, that she is considered to lers are a'sib," meaning, that they are be a good deal stronger than the ge- all connected by the ties of blood, and nerality of men. She is married to considered as one family. This is a William Davidson, a gypsey at Wemyss. most powerful bond of union among They have a large family, and sell these desperate clans, and almost bids earthen ware through the country, defiance to the breaking up of their

In this fainily the gypsey language strongly cemented society, is spoken at this day, and to Megg As Stewart was once crossing the Graham I was directed for information Forth, chained to his son-in-law Wila on this subject ; but I obtained the son, both in charge of messengers, he, specimen which I have of their speech with considerable shame in his counfrom gypsies in another quarter. The tenance, observed a man whose father first expression which I received in kept an inn in which he had frequentJuly last, was.char achauvie," which ly, with his merry companions, rethey translated to me into English galed himself with a bottle of ale. thus,rob that

Stewart called this man close to him, by Mr Hoyland's Survey of the Gyp- took five shillings from his own pocket, sies in England, that their appellation and gave them to him, with these words,

“ Hae, Davie, there are five shillings

to ye, drink my health man, I'll laugh Or “ steal from that person.Both

at them a'.” He did laugh at them these expressions are by the gypsies con- all, for nothing could be proven against sidered to have one and the same meaning. him, and he was accordingly set at


It appears,

liberty, it being " the auld thing again, twists of the club, that the whole of but nae proof.'

the turns and figures of the dance were This old gypsey is described to me regulated. One twirl dismissed the as a stout good-looking man, with a females, another cut recalled them, fair complexion ; and I am informed and a third sweep ordered them all to he lived to a long age. He affirmed sit down squat on the ground. Anwherever he went

that he was descend- other twist again called them up in an ed from the royal Stuarts of Scoto instant to the dance. In short, Stewart land.* He died within these twenty distinctly spoke to his female dancers years, and his posterity still assert that by means of his stick, commanding they are sprung from that race. In them to do whatever he pleased in support of this strange pretension, these operations, without opening his Stewart, in the year 1774, at a wed- mouth to one of them.* ding in the parish of Corstorphine, Geordie Drummond, the gypsey actually wore a large cocked hat, de- chief mentioned in my former comcorated with a beautiful plume of munication, and of whom I shall have white feathers, in imitation of the yet occasion sometimes to speak, dancwhite cockade of the pretender, Prince ed with his seraglio of females in the Charles Stuart. He was also dressed very same manner as Stewart, without at this wedding in a short coat, phili- the slightest variation, except that his beg and Highland purse, with tartan gestures were on some occasions exhose. He wore some times a piece of tremely lascivious. He threw himself brass as a star on his left breast, with into almost every attitude into which a cudgel in his hand. This ridiculous the human body can be formed, while dress corresponds exactly with the taste bis stick was flying round his person and ideas of a gypsey. There were at with great violence. All the movethis wedding five or six gypsey fe- ments of this dance of Geordie's were males in Stewart's train. He did not regulated by the measures of an indeallow males to accompany him on these cent song, and always at the chorus particular occasions. At some distance of which the circular motion of the from the people at the wedding, but cudgel ceased, and one of the females within hearing of the mucic, these fe- joined him with her voice when their males formed themselves into a ring, gestures became exceedingly obscene. with Charlie in its centre. Here, in Geordie's appearance, while dancing, is the middle of the circle, he capered described to me, by a gentleman of and danced in the most antic and lu- observation, exactly like a human fidicrous manner, sweeping his cudgel gure cut out of wood or pasteboard, around his body in all directions, dance with the odd capers of which I have ing at the same time with much grace seen children amusing themselves by and agility. He sometimes danced drawing strings fixed to cords leading round the outside of the ring, putting from the legs and arms of the whimsithe females to rights when they hap- cal figure. The gypsies at Lochgellie pened to go wrong. The females cour- had also a dance peculiar to themtesied and danced to him in their turn, selves, and during which they sung a as he faced about to them in his capers. song in the gypsey language, which Every one of the sweeps with the stick they called a was intelligible to these women. It În Dr Clark's Travels through Ruswas by the different cuts, sweeps, and sia, we find a description, by that au

thor, of a gypsey dance at Moscow, It would seem that the gypsies, from very similar in all respects to the dance policy to save themselves from being appre- performed by Stewart and Drummond. hended, merely because they were gypsies, These travels only came into my have in my opinion laid aside their own hands about three months ago, after original names, and have in general assum- I had taken notes of the dances already ed the surnames of our noble families, from mentioned. Napkins appear to have ostentation as well as for protection; but I been used by the gypsies in Russia, never heard of any of them tracing their whereas sticks were employed by our descent from these families but Stewart. There is nothing improbable in one of our

Scottish gypsies. No mention, howkings having been enamoured of some beau. tiful gypsey girl. Tradition has handed down • This dance is taken from the mouth of several curious anecdotes of the intercourse an eye-witness, of whose veracity I enter. the gaberlunzie man had with the gypsies. tain not the smallest doubt.



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