CHAPTER V. THE PUBLIC PARKS AND GARDENS. Fountains and trees, our wearied pride do please, And in our towns, that prospect gives delight, How wanton sits she, amidst Nature's smiles; Nor from her highest turrets has to view, But golden landscapes, and luxuriant scenes, A waste of wealth, the storehouse of the world.-Young. ST. JAMES'S PARK Was originally formed by Henry VIII., who caused to be drained and enclosed, what at that time was little better than a marsh. It was afterwards much improved by Charles II., who employed Le Notre to plant the avenues, lay out the mall, a vista, half a mile in length, and form the canal, as also the aviary adjoining, from which the Bird-Cage Walk took its name. Succeeding kings allowed the people the privilege of walking here; and William III., in 1699, granted the neighbouring inhabitants a passage into it through Spring Gardens. In 1828, the appearance of the park was much improved, when it assumed its present appearance; and it is now one of the most delightful promenades in the metropolis. In the centre of the park is an oblong sheet of water, which tends greatly to the embellishment of the place, it being prettily diversified, indented with little bays, with jutting promontories, and islands tufted with evergreens. The collection of rare aquatic birds, which add greatly to the beauty of the scene, and the feeding of which, is a never-failing source of amusement to the young, belong to the Ornithological Society, who have erected a very pretty and picturesque cottage for the keeper, at the east end of the park. In January, 1846, the collection contained upwards of three hundred birds, including twenty-one species, and fifty-one distinct varieties. One of the most charming views imaginable, may be obtained from the southern bank of the lake, "Just when evening turns the blue vault grey," the placid waters, like a huge mirror, reflect the noble trees on its broad margin-the rare aquatic birds then sail majestically along its H surface, or diving and diporting themselves in its clear waters, with light waves ripple its bosom-at the extremity of the lake, "against the eastern gate, Where the great sun begins his state." The parade, and western front of the Horse Guards, agreeably relieve the eye, whilst towering over the majestic elms, which shade the Mall, the splendid mansions of Carlton Terrace, the York and Nelson Columns, and the lofty and elegant spire of St. Martin's Church, complete a picture that leaves nothing to be desired. The side of the park nearest Pall Mall, is bounded by a range of stately houses, built on what was formerly the site of Carlton Palace, consisting of sixteen houses, which are disposed in two ranges, raised on a substratum, forming a terrace, about fifty feet wide, adorned with Pæstum Doric pillars, surmounted by a balustrade. The superstructure consists of three stories, ornamented with Corinthian columns. In the open space between the two ranges is the York Column, erected to the memory of the late Commander in Chief. Westward of these, are Marlborough House, St. James's Palace, and Stafford House. In the Bird-Cage Walk, which leads from Westminster Bridge to Pimlico, is the Wellington Barracks, and exercise ground, near to which is a handsome Doric chapel, erected for the use of the military, to which the public have access on Sundays; service commences at half-past ten o'clock. The appearance of this noble chapel is striking from the various points of view, and forms an interesting composition with the towers of the Abbey. There are carriage entrances to St. James's Park at St. James's Palace; Constitution Hill; Buckingham Gate, Great George Street; and the Horse Guards; as well as entrances for pedestrians, at Spring Gardens; Duke Street; Fludyer Street; Downing Street, through the Treasury; Queen's Square, Queen Street; the Green Park; Št. James's Palace; and Waterloo Place: the entrance at the latter was first opened September the 8th, 1831, in honour of the coronation of William IV., and consists of a noble flight of steps, leading from the York Column. On the parade in front of the Horse Guards, are placed a Turkish piece of ordnance, captured at Alexandria by the British army; a piece ol ordnance captured at Waterloo; and one of the mortars used by the French army to throw shells into Cadiz, its range being said to be three miles, and its weight sixteen tons. One of the regiments of the foot guards daily parade in this park, between ten and eleven o'clock in the morning, attended by its band, and afterwards proceeds to relieve the regiment on duty at St. James's Palace, where the band of both regiments play, alternately, for about twenty minutes. The enclosure is open daily, from seven o'clock until sunset, and is a favourite promenade, especially on Sundays in the afternoon and evening, when it is always crowded with well dressed company. But though a favourite, it is not a fashionable lounge; people of rank preferring Kensington Gardens, from their proximity to the more aristocratic drive in Hyde Park, known as Rotten Row. An open area of fifty-six acres, situate on the west side of the stable yard, St. James's Palace, and forms part of the ground enclosed by Henry VIII., extending from St. James's Park to Piccadilly, from which it is separated by an iron railing from Hyde Park to Constitution Hill, the name given to the fine road which unites the three parks; and here it was, on the 10th of June, 1850, that the lunatic Oxford fired at her Majesty, as she was proceeding in an open phaeton, accompanied by Prince Albert. Previous to the reign of Charles II., the Green Park was occupied by meadows; and it is to that monarch we are indebted for its being converted into an appanage of St. James's Palace. In 1730 it was the scene of a remarkable duel, between the celebrated minister, Pulteney, afterwards Earl of Bath, and John Lord Hervey. It was much improved during the period that Lord Duncannon was at the head of the Woods and Forests, and now forms an agreeable promenade from St. James's Palace to Hyde Park Corner. At the north-east angle is a useful reservoir, belonging to the Chelsea Waterworks, having no pretensions to picturesqueness or beauty. This park has several magnificent mansions on its eastern side, particularly Bridgewater and Stafford Houses, the noble mansions and picture galleries of the Earl of Ellesmere, and the Duke of Sutherland, the palladian villa of Lord Spencer, the town houses of the Earl of Derby, the Marquis of Tavistock, the Duke of Rutland, and ther opulent peers. Is situated at the western extremity of London, and together with Kensington Gardens, occupies the whole space between the Kensington and Bayswater roads; it is separated from the Green Park by the width of the street, at Hyde Park Corner, and has long been the favourite resort of the fashionable world; it is an extremely beautiful and very delightful spot, containing within its precincts about four hundred acres, and is very well planted, though with few of the effects of landscape gardening; it derives its name from the Manor of Hyde, given in exchange to Henry VIII. for other lands, at the suppression of the monastery. It has been greatly reduced in size by the building of houses, and by the appropriation of a part to enlarge Kensington Gardens; it is, however, still large; and from the salubrity of the air has been happily called one of the "lungs of London." The views from the higher portions of ground are very pleasing; more particularly those to the south and west. A piece of water once serpentine, and still called the Serpentine river, though now a wide canal, stretches through the park, with a single course, from north to east, having at its eastern extremity, an artificial waterfall, constructed in 1817, and being crossed, towards its western end by a very elegant stone bridge, designed and executed by the Messrs. Rennie, forming a beautiful object from either side. A good view is obtained from the southern bank of the water, where the rich and luxuriant foliage of the plantations in Kensington Gardens, forms a fine back ground over its summit; and the walks round the margin of the lake, a lively contrast to the dark shadows of the arches, which cast their reflexes on the surface of the silvery waters. The Serpentine is much resorted to during the summer months for the purpose of bathing, but the numerous cold springs with which it abounds, renders it very dangerous, the swimmer being often seized with cramp, from which cause great loss of life ensued, previous to the establishment of the Royal Humane Society, who have erected a house on its margin for the reception and recovery of persons apparently drowned, and who have several men engaged during the hours in which bathing is allowed, viz., before seven o'clock in the morning, and after eight o'clock in the evening. In winter, during hard frosts, the Serpentine is much frequented by the votaries of skating, although it is the most dangerous sheet of water in London, and numbers have fallen victims to their hardihood in venturing within the limits marked "dangerous." Near the receiving house are two powder magazines; the great government store of gunpowder, in which is deposited upwards of one million rounds of ball and blank cartridges, ready for immediate use. It is to be hoped that a more appropriate site will be found for this dangerous storehouse, before the ensuing year. |