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VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, AND ROUND

THE WORLD.

IN 1772, 1773, 1774, AND 1775.

BOOK I.

FROM OUR DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND TO LEAVING THE SOCIETY ISLES, THE FIRST TIME.

CHAPTER I.—PASSAGE FROM DEPTFORD TO THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF SEVERAL INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED BY THE WAY, AND TRANSACTIONS THERE.

I SAILED from Deptford, April 9th, 1772, but got no farther than Woolwich; where I was detained by easterly winds till the 22nd, when the ship fell down to Long Reach, and the next day was joined by the Adventure. Here both ships received on board their powder, guns, gunner's stores, and marines.

On the 10th of May, we left Long Reach with orders to touch at Plymouth; but in plying down the river, the Resolution was found to be very crank, which made it necessary to put into Sheerness, in order to remove this evil, by making some alterations in her upper works. These the officers of the yard were ordered to take in hand immediately; and Lord Sandwich and Sir Hugh Palliser came down to see them executed in such a manner as might effectually answer the purpose intended.

On the 22nd of June the ship was again completed for sea, when I sailed from Sheerness; and on the 3rd of July, joined the Adventure in Plymouth Sound. The evening before we met off the Sound, Lord Sandwich, in the Augusta yacht (who was on his return from visiting the several dockyards), with the Glory frigate and Hazard sloop. We saluted his lordship with seventeen guns; and soon after he and Sir Hugh Palliser gave us the last mark of the very great attention they had paid to this equipment, by coming on board, to satisfy themselves that everything was done to my wish, and that the ship was found to answer to my satisfaction.

At Plymouth I received my instructions, dated the 25th of June, directing me to take under my command the Adventure; to make the best of my way to the island of Madeira, there to take in a supply of wine, and then proceed to the Cape of Good Hope, where I was to refresh the ships' companies, and take on board such provisions and necessaries as I might stand in need of. After leaving the Cape of Good Hope, I was to proceed to the southward, and endeavour to fall in with Cape Circumcision, which was said by Monsieur Bouvet to lie in the latitude of 54° south, and in about 11° 20' east longitude from Greenwich *. If I discovered this cape, I was to satisfy myself whether it was a part of the continent, which had so much engaged the attention of geographers and former navigators, or a part of an island. If it proved to be the former, I was to employ myself diligently in exploring as great an extent of it as I could; and to make such notations thereon, and observations of

See further as to this supposed discovery in the Introduction to the Third Voyage -ED.

every kind, as might be useful either to navigation or commerce, or tend to the promotion of natural knowledge. I was also directed to observe the genius, temper, disposition, and number of the inhabitants, if there were any, and endeavour, by all proper means, to cultivate a friendship and alliance with them; making them presents of such things as they might value; inviting them to traffic, and showing them every kind of civility and regard. I was to continue to employ myself on this service, and making discoveries, either to the eastward or westward, as my situation might render most eligible; keeping in as high a latitude as I could, and prosecuting my discoveries as near to the South Pole as possible, so long as the condition of the ships, the health of their crews, and the state of their provisions, would admit of; taking care to reserve as much of the latter as would enable me to reach some known port, where I was to procure a sufficiency to bring me home to England. But if Cape Circumcision should prove to be part of an island only, or if I should not be able to find the said cape, I was, in the first case, to make the necessary survey of the island, and then to stand on to the southward, so long as I judged there was a likelihood of falling in with the continent; which I was also to do in the latter case; and then to proceed to the eastward, in further search of the said continent, as well as to make discoveries of such islands as might be situated in that unexplored part of the southern hemisphere; keeping in high latitudes, and prosecuting my discoveries as above-mentioned, as near the Pole as possible, until I had circumnavigated the globe; after which I was to proceed to the Cape of Good Hope, and from thence to Spithead.

In the prosecution of these discoveries, whenever the season of the year rendered it unsafe for me to continue in high latitudes, I was to retire to some known place to the northward, to refresh my people, and refit the ships; and to return again to the southward, as soon as the season of the year would admit of it. In all unforeseen cases, I was authorised to proceed according to my own discretion; and in case the Resolution should be lost or disabled, I was to prosecute the voyage on board the Adventure. I gave a copy of these instructions

to Captain Furneaux, with an order directing him to carry them into execution; and in case he was separated from me, appointed the island of Madeira for the first place of rendezPort Praya in the island of St. Jago for the second, Cape of Good Hope for the third, and New Zealand for the fourth.

vous.

During our stay at Plymouth, Messieurs Wales and Bayley, the two astronomers, made observations on Drake's Island, in order to ascertain the latitude, longitude, and true time for putting the time-pieces or watches in motion. The latitude was found to be 50° 21′ 30′′ north; and the longitude 4° 20′ west of Greenwich, which, in this voyage, is everywhere to be understood as the first meridian, and from which the longitude is reckoned east and west to 180° each way. On the 10th of July, the watches were set a-going in the presence of the two astronomers, Captain Furneaux, the first lieutenants of the ships, and myself, and put on board. The two on board the Adventure were made by Mr. Arnold, and also one of those on board the Resolution; but the other was made by Mr. Kendal, upon the same principle, in every respect, as Mr. Harrison's time-piece. The commander, first lieutenant, and astronomer, on board each of the ships, kept each of them keys of the boxes which contained the watches, and were always to be present at the winding them up, and comparing the one with the other; or some other officer, if, at any time, through indisposition, or absence upon any other necessary duties, any of them could not conveniently attend. The same day, according to the custom of the navy, the companies of both ships were paid two months' wages in advance; and as a further encouragement for their going this extraordinary voyage, they were also paid the wages due to them to the 28th of the preceding May. This enabled them to provide necessaries for the voyage.

On the 13th, at six o'clock in the morning, I sailed from Plymouth Sound, with the Adventure in company; and on the evening of the 29th, anchored in Funchal Road, in the island of Madeira. The next morning I saluted the garrison with eleven guns; which compliment was immediately returned. Soon after I went on shore, accompanied by Capt. Furneaux, the two Mr. Forsters, and Mr. Wales. At our landing we were received by a gentleman from the vice-consul, Mr. Sills, who conducted us to the house of Mr. Loughnans, the most considerable English merchant in the place. This gentleman not only

obtained leave for Mr. Forster to search the island for plants, but procured us every other thing we wanted, and insisted on our accommodating ourselves at his house during our stay.

The town of Funchal, which is the capital of the island, is situated about the middle of the south side, in the bottom of the bay of the same name, in latitude 32° 33′ 34′′ north, longitude 17° 12' west. The longitude was deduced from lunar observations made by Mr. Wales, and reduced to the town by Mr. Kendal's watch, which made the longitude 17° 10′ 14′′ west. During our stay here, the crews of both ships were supplied with fresh beef and onions; and a quantity of the latter was distributed amongst them for

a sea store.

Having got on board a supply of water, wine, and other necessaries, we left Madeira on the 1st of August, and stood to the southward, with a fine gale at N.E. On the 4th we passed Palma, one of the Canary Isles. It is of a height to be seen twelve or fourteen leagues, and lies in the latitude 28° 38′ north, longitude 17° 58' west. The next day we saw the isle of Ferro and passed it at the distance of fourteen leagues. in the latitude 27° 42' north, and longitude 18°

I judged it to lie

I now made three puncheons of beer, of the inspissated juice of malt. The proportion I made use of was about ten of water to one of juice. Fifteen of the nineteen half-barrels of the inspissated juice which we had on board were produced from wort that was hopped before inspissated. The other four were made of beer that had been both hopped and fermented before inspissated. This last requires no other preparation to make it fit for use, than to mix it with cold water, from one part in eight, to one part in twelve of water (or in such other proportion as might be liked), then stop it down; and in a few days it will be brisk, and drinkable. But the other sort, after being mixed with water in the same manner, will require to be fermented with yeast, in the usual way of making beer; at least it was so thought. However, experience taught us that this will not always be necessary. For by the heat of the weather and the agitation of the ship, both sorts were at this time in the highest state of fermentation, and had hitherto evaded all our endeavours to stop it. If this juice could be kept from fermenting, it certainly would be a most valuable article at sea.

On finding that our stock of water would not last us to the Cape of Good Hope, without putting the people to a scanty allowance, I resolved to stop at St. Jago for a supply. On the 9th, at nine o'clock in the morning, we made the island of Bonavista, bearing S.W. The next day we passed the island of Mayo on our right; and the same evening anchored in Port Praya, in the island of St. Jago, in eighteen fathom water. The east point of the bay bore east; the west point S. W. S., and the fort N.W. I immediately despatched an officer to ask leave to water, and purchase refreshments; which was granted. On the return of the officer I saluted the fort with eleven guns, on a promise of its being returned with an equal number. But by a mistake, as they pretended, the salute was returned with only nine; for which the governor made an excuse the next day. The 14th, in the evening, having completed our water, and got on board a supply of refreshments; such as hogs, goats, fowls, and fruit; we put to sea, and proceeded on our voyage.

Port Praya is a small bay, situated about the middle of the south side of the island of St. Jago, in the latitude of 14° 53′ 30" north, longitude 23° 30′ west. It may be known, especially in coming from the east, by the southernmost hill on the island; which is round, and peaked at top; and lies a little way inland, in the direction of west from the port. This mark is the more necessary, as there is a small cove about a league to the eastward, with a sandy beach in the bottom of it, a valley and cocoa-nut trees behind, which strangers may mistake for Port Praya, as we ourselves did. The two points which form the entrance of Port Praya Bay, are rather low, and in the direction of W.S.W. and E.N.E. half a league from each other. Close to the west point are sunken rocks, on which the sea continually breaks. The bay lies in N.W. near half a league; and the depth of water is from fourteen to four fathoms. Large ships ought not to anchor in less than eight, in which depth the south end of the Green Island (a small island lying under the west shore) will bear west. You water at a well that is behind the beach at the head of the bay. The water is tolerable,

but scarce, and bad getting off, on account of a great surf on the beach. The refreshments to be got here are, bullocks, hogs, goats, sheep, poultry, and fruits. The goats are of the antelope kind, so extraordinary lean, that hardly anything can equal them; and the bullocks, hogs, and sheep are not much better. Bullocks must be purchased with money; the price is twelve Spanish dollars a head, weighing between 250 and 300 pounds. Other articles may be got from the natives in exchange for old clothes, &c. But the sale of bullocks is confined to a company of merchants, to whom this privilege is granted, and who keep an agent residing upon the spot. The fort above-mentioned seems wholly designed for the protection of the bay, and is well situated for that purpose, being built on an elevation, which rises directly from the sea on the right, at the head of the bay.

We had no sooner got clear of Port Praya, than we got a fresh gale at N.N.E. which blew in squalls, attended with showers of rain. But the next day the wind and showers abated, and veered to the south. It was, however, variable and unsettled for several days, accompanied with dark, gloomy weather, and showers of rain. On the 19th, in the afternoon, one of the carpenter's mates fell overboard, and was drowned. He was over the side, fitting in one of the scuttles, from whence, it was supposed, he had fallen: for he was not seen till the very instant he sunk under the ship's stern, when our endeavours to save him were too late. This loss was sensibly felt during the voyage, as he was a sober man and a good workman. About noon the next day the rain poured down upon us not in drops, but in streams. The wind, at the same time, was variable, and squally, which obliged the people to attend the decks, so that few in the ships escaped a good soaking. We, however, benefited by it, as it gave us an opportunity of filling all our empty water-casks. This heavy rain at last brought on a dead calm, which continued twenty-four hours, when it was succeeded by a breeze from S. W. Betwixt this point and south it continued for several days, and blew, at times, in squalls, attended with rain and hot sultry weather. The mercury in the thermometers, at noon, kept generally from 79 to 82.

On the 27th, spake with Captain Furneaux, who informed us that one of his petty officers was dead. At this time we had not one sick on board; although we had everything of this kind to fear from the rain we had had, which is a great promoter of sickness in hot climates. To prevent this, and agreeable to some hints I had from Sir Hugh Palliser, and from Captain Campbell, I took every necessary precaution, by airing and drying the ship with fires made betwixt decks, smoking, &c., and by obliging the people to air their bedding, wash and dry their clothes, whenever there was an opportunity. A neglect of these things causeth a disagreeable smell below, affects the air, and seldom fails to bring on sickness; but more especially in hot and wet weather.

We now began to see some of those birds which are said never to fly far from land; that is, man-of-war and tropic birds, gannets, &c. No land, however, that we knew of, could be nearer than eighty leagues.

On the 30th, at noon, being in the latitude of 2o 35′ north, longitude 7° 30′ west, and the wind having veered to the east of south, we tacked and stretched to the S. W. In the latitude of 0o 52 north, longitude 9° 25′ west, we had one calm day, which gave us an opportunity of trying the current in a boat. We found it set to the north one-third of a mile an hour. We had reason to expect this from the difference we frequently found between the observed latitude and that given by the log: and Mr. Kendal's watch showed us, that it set to the east also. This was fully confirmed by the lunar observations; when it appeared that we were 3° more to the east than the common reckoning. At the time of trying the current, the mercury in the thermometer, in the open air, stood at 75; and when immerged in the surface of the sea, at 74: but when immerged eighty fathoms deep where it remained fifteen minutes), when it came up, the mercury stood at 66. At the same time we sounded, without finding bottom with a line of two hundred and fifty fathoms. The calm was succeeded by a light breeze at S.W., which kept veering by little and little to the south, and at last to the eastward of south, attended with clear, serene weather. At length, on the 8th of September, we crossed the line in the longitude of 8° west; after which the ceremony of ducking, &c., generally practised on this occasion, was not omitted. The wind now veering more and more to the east, and blowing a gentle top-gallant gale,

in eight days it carried us into the latitude of 9° 30' south, longitude 18° west. The weather was pleasant; and we daily saw some of those birds, which are looked upon as signs of the vicinity of land; such as boobies, men-of-war, tropic birds, and gannets. We supposed they came from the Isle of St. Matthew, or Ascension; which isles we must have passed at no great distance.

On the 27th, in the latitude of 25° 29′, longitude 24° 54′, we discovered a sail to the west, standing after us. She was a snow; and the colours she showed, either a Portuguese or St. George's ensign, the distance being too great to distinguish the one from the other; and I did not choose to wait to get nearer, or to speak with her. The wind now began to be variable. It first veered to the north, where it remained two days with fair weather. Afterwards it came round by the west to the south, where it remained two days longer, and after a few hours' calm, sprang up at S.W. But here it remained not long before it veered to E.S.E., and to the north of east; blew fresh, and by squalls, with showers of rain.

With these winds we advanced but slowly, and without meeting with anything remarkable till the 11th of October, when at 6h 24m 12s, by Mr. Kendal's watch, the moon rose about four digits eclipsed; and soon after we prepared to observe the end of the eclipse, as follows, viz:

The next morning, having but little wind, we hoisted a boat out, to try if there was any current, but found none. From this time to the 16th, we had the wind between the north and east, a gentle gale. We had for some time ceased to see any of the birds before-mentioned; and were now accompanied by albatrosses, pintadoes, sheerwaters, &c., and a small grey peterel, less than a pigeon. It has a whitish belly, and grey back, with a black stroke across from the tip of one wing to the tip of the other. These birds sometimes visited us in great flights. They are, as well as the pintadoes, southern birds; and are, I believe, never seen within the tropics, or north of the line.

On the 17th, we saw a sail to the N.W. standing to the eastward, which hoisted Dutch colours. She kept us company for two days, but the third we outsailed her. On the 21st, at 7h 30m 203 A. M., our longitude, by the mean of two observed distances of the sun and moon, was 8° 4′ 30′′ east; Mr. Kendal's watch at the same time gave 7° 22′. Our latitude was 35° 20' south. The wind was now easterly, and continued so till the 23d, when it veered to N. and N.W. after some hours' calm; in which we put a boat in the water, and Mr. Forster shot some albatrosses and other birds, on which we feasted the next day, and found them exceedingly good. At the same time we saw a seal, or, as some thought, a sea-lion, which probably might be an inhabitant of one of the isles of Tristian de Cunha, being now nearly in their latitude, and about 5° east of them.

The wind continued but two days at N.W. and S. W., then veered to the S.E., where it remained two days longer, then fixed at N.W., which carried us to our intended port. As we approached the land, the sea-fowl, which had accompanied us hitherto, began to leave us—at least they did not come in such numbers; nor did we see gannets, or the black bird