Jericho in the hope of booty. The Turkish governor always sends a guard with each caravan, aware of the importance of pilgrims to Jerusalem, and willing to afford every facility to this, as to any other enterprise conducive to the revenue.

It is an imposing sight to witness that long array of pilgrims winding through the gloomy Passes of the Judean hills, with the bright sunshine flashing on the bristling spears of the Bedouin. and the gorgeous trappings of the Albanian cavalry; the long necks of camels peering high over the mass, and the eager, huddling movement of the timorous crowd. Woe to the poor pilgrim who lags behind, or is overtaken at nightfall on the outskirt of the camp! They are vigilantly beset by the children of Ishmael, who consider the privilege of robbing as being theirs by Divine right. "God," say they, "gave to Isaac the land of Canaan, but to Ishmael the Desert, and all that is found thereon."

Shortly before my arrival at Jerusalem, a Mr. G., an English traveller, had joined himself to one of these pilgrimages to the Jordan for the sake of security, as well as of curiosity. When about half-way to Jericho, he happened to linger behind the caravan, and was cantering along the lonely road to overtake it: suddenly his horse was checked by a resistless grasp, and himself thrown to the ground. The moment before there was no living creature visible in that wild glen; now, on recovering from the shock, he saw an Arab bending over him, with his spear pointed at his bosom; two other Bedouins stood by, and his horse had disappeared. Not understanding the menacing injunction to lie still, he tried to rise, and was instantly pinned to the ground by the Arab's lance. Seeing that resistance was hopeless, he submitted to his fate, and the two Bedouins approached with the request, "Cousin, undress thyself, thy aunt is without a garment." This is the usual form in the desert, in whose slang the word "aunt" seems to figure in somewhat of the same capacity that "uncle" does in ours; but the "balls" are of lead, not brass. As Mr. G. displayed considerable reluctance in assisting the wants of his unknown relative, the Bedouin stripped him with wonderful despatch. They soon left him in a state of utter nudity, and, in reply to all his remonstrances, only returned him his hat, which they looked upon with contempt, and useless even to

his unscrupulous "aunt." They even took away the hatband, and then left him to return as best he might to the crowded metropolis, clothed only in a narrow-brimmed beaver.·

Arrived at the Jordan, the pilgrims rush into the deep and rapid river with such enthusiasm that they are not unfrequently drowned, and carried away by the stream. The Greek and Latin church has each its peculiar spot, where Christ was baptized, as well as its peculiar Easter, so they never interfere with each other here, as in the Holy Sepulchre. The leader of the troops only allows a certain time for the immersion, and then reforms his caravan to return to Jerusalem.

In the valley of the Jordan, there is much wood, and there were formerly many palms: here each pilgrim cuts himself a staff, and is thenceforth a "palmer," or one whose pilgrimage is accomplished.

Notwithstanding the number of foreigners thus annually arriving at Jerusalem, there has been no representative of European powers established here, until very recently. A Protestant and an Englishman was the first, and a better person for that arduous situation could not have been selected than Mr. Young. Very zealous for his country, and very firm for its privileges, he has yet had sufficient tact and suavity to avoid having ever come into collision with the Turkish authorities. This was a more difficult matter in the first exercise of European interference than may at first appear. Highly educated, moreover, and taking an active interest in matters relating to our Church, he has made his arduous situation a means of interest and improvement to himself, and a real advantage to all his countrymen. If I might introduce a lady's name into these pages, I would fain dwell on the advan tage that not only our travellers but our national character derives from the grace and charm that the limited society at Jerusalem owes to the drawing-room of the British Consulate.

The king of Prussia, with his characteristic liberality and right-mindedness, immediately on the appointment of the English bishopric, appointed a Consul at Jerusalem. I am much indebted to Dr. Schultze, who now holds that office, for his courtesy, hospitality, and information, which last, especially, he possesses in the highest degree.

The king of France has also sent a consul to Jerusalem, who immediately embroiled himself with the Turkish authorities, and has been in difficulties ever since. To do him justice, however, he vindicated the right of hoisting a Christian flag in the Holy City, and procured the recall of the Pasha of Jerusalem, who had given much dissatisfaction to the European and other Christians.

The Turks have a garrison in Jerusalem of about eight hundred soldiers. The surrounding country, nominally under their authority, is in fact ravaged by the Bedouin up to the very walls of Jerusalem, and the different villages look only to themselves for protection. Jerusalem is ill-adapted at present for a military post it is commanded by the Mount of Olives, the Hill of Evil Counsel, and the Hill of Scopas, within half cannon-shot. Its supply of water is very limited, and depends in summer altogether upon tanks: Kedron has long ceased to flow during the warm months, and wells are unknown. The road from Jaffa is almost impassable for artillery, and affords unequalled facilities for guerilla troops to fight, and cut off supplies.

Jerusalem is about forty miles from the sea, and twenty-four from the Jordan. There is very little wheat grown, and very few cattle fed in its neighbourhood. Its present population, of about 12,000* souls, finds a very scanty subsistence, and have no commerce whatever to assist them. Alms and pilgrims are the principal, if not the only, sources of wealth. The Jews, Latins, and Greeks, are entirely dependant on such resources.

Viz. 4,000 Moslems, 3,500 Christians, 3,500 Jews, and 800 Turkish troops in garrison.

CHAPTER X.

BETHLEHEM.

Brightest and best of the sons of the morning,
Dawn on our darkness and lend us thine aid!
Star of the East, the horizon adorning,

Guide where our infant Redeemer is laid!

BISHOP HEBER

I FELT little inclination to linger at Jerusalem after I had explored the prescribed localities, and such as I had selected for myself. It was now midsummer; and the sun, reflected from the white walls and marble pavement, seemed to surround me with a fiery glow. The very zephyrs were so languid from the heat, that they refused any longer to wander through the streets, narrow as these were made, in order to stimulate their energies: the scorched leaves had no quiver; the living city was more silent under the oppression of that sunshine than at midnight; and the whole world seemed to be gradually growing red-hot. I felt escape was absolutely necessary, and prepared to avail myself of an invitation from our bishop to Bethlehem, where he had been staying for some time.

My last hour at Jerusalem was passed in a negotiation with Abdallah, a Sheikh of Bedouin, to escort me to the Dead Sea: he assured me that the way was very dangerous, and that not less than a dozen horsemen and twice that number of dismounted men could confer any chance of safety. As he sat upon my divan, perfectly free from embarrassment as from presuming, he looked so like a gentleman that I was almost tempted to believe him. It is true, that his chin had never known a razor, or his foot a boot; that his dress consisted of a sheet, with some cunningly-devised holes and folds to give it the appearance of a Ro

man toga; but he had a fine bold brow, and fearless eye, and a graceful, courteous bearing, whereby gentle blood vindicated itself in this aristocrat of the desert, as clearly as in the courtly noble.

It is unnecessary to add that danger never entered into the Sheikh's calculation; if the representation of it had obtained a few hundred piastres more from me, it was taib; if it actually presented itself, it came in no new form, and it was taib still. He bargained stoutly for an exorbitant price, because his tribe expected him to prove himself a subtle lawyer, as well as a bold leader; but once the price was fixed, he said no more about it, and money was never named again between us.

After finishing his pipe and coffee, he departed to make preparations for the journey, and I soon heard his Arab steed galloping down the steep and stony street.

My own poor horse had never recovered from the effects of his cruise in the Mediterranean; and, although nursed by Abou Habib, Salomé, and Eleesa, assisted by the best medical advice in Jerusalem, he was quite unfit to resume his journey. Leaving him, therefore, in charge of my fair friends, I mounted an Arab mare of the desert breed, and rode forth to take a last view of the Mount of Olives, and to examine the Tombs of the Kings.

M. Schultze, the Prussian consul, kindly accompanied me, and proved clearly where the ancient walls had run; they embraced the hill of Bezetha and a much wider extent than the present towards the north, but a less extent towards the north-west, leaving Calvary outside their circuit.

Passing through some thin olive groves, we came to the Tombs of the Kings, which did not appear to advantage after those of Egypt; but are interesting and curious, nevertheless. A square enclosure is hewn out of the solid rock, like a huge tank; into this we crept, through a small orifice, on our hands and knees, and found the vertical sides of the enclosures hollowed out into small chambers, from which opened cryptæ. Though devoid of ornament, the excavations were admirably done, and the stone doors turned upon stone pivots, that were once let into the rock. The only carving was on the exterior, and seems to be of Herod's time.