Abbildungen der Seite
PDF
EPUB

temples seemed full of these grim statues, though there are only two rows, containing four in each. The massive pedestals on which they stand are but ten feet apart, which adds considerably to the effect of their enormous size. Hence we passed into a lesser hall, and then into the adytum: numerous torches here gleamed upon walls, shadowily giving out pictured battles, and kneeling priests, and stern deities; and in the centre of the shrine was a rude altar, beyond which sat four gigantic idols, with strange-looking crowns upon their heads, and mysterious emblems in their hands. It must be either a very strong, or a very indifferent mind that can remain without some sense of awe in such a scene, or deny that it was well calculated to inspire such religious feeling as the eye alone can communicate to the soul,

There were many other chambers; but we soon returned to the outer hall, and again reverently traversed its solemn aisles and galleries. Everywhere pillar and entablature were thickly encrusted with reliefs, and many a day might be passed in this sculptured library before its vast volumes were exhausted of their interest and meaning.

Once more the torches gleamed over god and warrior, and cavern and shrine; and we returned to our boat.

I cannot help thinking that the appearance of this rock-temple is more imposing than that of Ipsamboul itself. Its portico adds very much to its effect, and if its dimensions are less, the admirable skill of the architect atones for this, by a subtlety of design that makes the eye mistrust mere measurement. In the church of St. Peter's, at Rome, the keeping and proportion of every part is so perfect, that its vast size is only ascertainable by experience and reflection: the pen, in the hand of St. Mark, which seems of the natural size, is twelve feet long, and the apparently child-like cherubs are taller than grenadiers. In Guerf Hassan, on the contrary, the principal hall is only about sixty feet high, yet it conveys an idea of immensity. How is it that the more perfect Art produces an effect less than the reality, while the barbarian far exaggerates it?

After Guerf Hassan comes the little temple of Dandour, rich in hieroglyphics; and then Kalabshé. We found the inhabitants

of this warlike little city in a great state of excitement, on account of the desolation of the island, which I have narrated in ascending the river. They asked eagerly for powder, and we only wished we could have given them barrels of it; they also inquired anxiously if we had seen the governor, whose avenging visit they also were expecting, and preparing a warm reception for. Here is one of the largest and most perfect temples in Nubia, and, about two miles distant, another, named Beit el Wellee. This last is of the Pharaonic times, and is adorned with beautiful paintings, whose colors are very fresh and vivid. Near here are some rapids, which we had great difficulty in prevailing on our drunken Nubian pilot to take us through without daylight: we insisted on it, however; and the moon glanced on eddies of foam as we darted here and there among the rugged reefs that strewed the river. It required great exertion to keep steerage-way on the boat in this rapid stream, but our crew pulled gallantly, rising to their feet at every stroke of their ponderous oars, flourishing their naked figures, as they tossed one hand wildly in the air, and then, with a frightful yell, threw themselves back upon their stroke, till they reached their

seats.

The following day we passed the temple of Debod unvisited, and, towards evening, arrived at Philoe, having been only fifteen days on our journey to the Second Cataract.

Being now much recovered, I struggled up to visit once more those marvellous temples; once more I gazed from their terraces on the exquisitely beautiful prospect below, and then flung myself exhausted on the carpet in the shadow of our tent, which was now pitched upon the island shore. The lake was soon specked by people swimming, or rowing themselves on logs of wood, to visit and sell to us; so that we had soon a large levee, and before the sun went down, had accumulated articles of savage virtù sufficient to have stocked an Ethiopian Howell and James's.

Soon after day-light on the following morning, the Rais of the Cataract made his appearance, bringing with him eight athletic Nubians accustomed to the rapids and his voice, to row the boat instead of our own crew. After salams, and pipes, and coffee, we made sail and floated away, surrounded by rafts and swim

mers, and water-logs, carrying double. We soon left all these behind, and, in a short time, our beautiful Philo disappeared behind the tall cliffs for ever.

When we approached the Cataract, we stopped near a reef of rocks, to take in the old grey pilot of the falls, and instantly a score of Nubians darted out of the crowd into our boat. Being already very top-heavy, owing to the mast and spars that were lashed to the fore-mast and poop, we desired Mahmoud to clear the decks-in vain: one was a rais, and had a right to the risk of being drowned; another was his servant, another his cousin ; and we finally shoved off, with five-and-thirty natives crowded on our narrow deck. The celebrated old Rais of all the Cataract is dead, and his possessions seem to have descended in various falls to each of his sons, for there were several of these on board looking after their claims. The village Sheikh was there for the same purpose, and the Rais of the Lower Cataract also favored us with his company, in order to ensure his share.

"Yallough!" we are off. The Nubian river-guides pull away desperately, shouting a vehement song to which their oars keep rapid time, and we rush on to the calm space where the waters seem to pause before they plunge below. The chief Rais stands at the bow, gesticulating violently, watching eagerly every motion of the boat, and shouting out directions to the pilot, which were drowned in the yell of the rowers, the roar of the torrent, and the vociferations of every one on board, except ourselves and the old pilot, who stood erect and silent, watching every wave with a calm but vivid eye.

Now we are in the Cataract-the waves foam up over the deck, and the spray renders everything invisible, except where the dark cliffs loom for a moment through its clouds: the boat darts wildly on through the weltering waters-a sharp rock seems to await her-she shuns it like a bird, and plunges down another cataract; then fairly spins round in its eddies, till, urged into way again by the sweeping oars, she seems to hover for a moment over the great fall ;-then, down she goes, as if performing a summerset ; and we emerge about a hundred yards off from rock, and rapid, and exploit, which this last descent certainly deserves the name of.

We were now on the Egyptian Nile once more; we discharged our Raises, who did not even ask for backsheesh, and went away, looking as cheerful as their care-worn countenances would permit; and we also dismissed our drunken pilot, but in a very different temper.

[blocks in formation]

OUR anxiety for English letters and news acquired force, like gravitation, as we descended the river; and we only stopped at Assouan long enough to take in necessary stores, such as charcoal, flour, &c. I may mention here, for the information of travellers, that during the first month of our voyage we had used only the bread of the country, which was often very indif ferent; but, on entering Nubia, we could no longer obtain even this, and Mahmoud thenceforth made Arab cakes for us of flour and water, which he baked upon a flat piece of iron; this we found so excellent and wholesome, that we used nothing else until we reached Cairo. Our crew also laid in little stores of merchandise, for presents or for profit, of the Nubian articles most prized in Egypt. The premiums and prizes for work which we had given them from time to time, enabled them to do this; and our boat became heavily laden with the dates of the Ibreehmee and other luxuries.

« ZurückWeiter »