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of the Garden instead of being imprisoned in gloomy and dirty cells, as in the Royal Menagerie of England, have little territories of their own, ornamented with chateaux, and surrounded with those natural localities, which they are fond of frequenting in their wild state, rendering the loss of their freedom less intolerable. We saw bears climbing large trees, such as they are wont to ascend in forests; herds of deer gamboling in little lawns; and patridges secreting themselves amidst their favourite evergreens. These appurtenances have a tendency to preserve the natural habits of the animals, and to exhibit them to the best possible advantage.

The museum of Natural History is such an extensive establishment, that a mere description of the several compartments, without entering at all into detail, would exceed the limits of this sketch. Suffice it to say, that every object in the three kingdoms of nature, which can furnish illustrations of science, or data for philosophical researches, is here to be found exactly in its place, arranged according to the best systems extant. In short, a student may pursue his investigations here with as much certainty of the facts, and with more facility of examining materials, than he could by an actual visit to their localities. The result of the labours of many eminent men during their whole lives, in making collections and arranging them, is here seen at one view; and speculative theories may at once be brought to the test of truth. Of the numerous departments, we were most pleased with those containing the organic remains of animals and vegetables, whence Cuvier drew the materials of his work on geology. The cabinets of human and comparative anatomy are also extremely interesting, illustrating every point of analogy or discrepancy between the structure of man and the inferior tribes of creation.

The establishment has a large library, embracing nearly every work in natural science, that has been published in any language, age, or country. Lectures open to the public, and free of all expense, are statedly given in the amphitheatre, on all the subjects connected with the institution. They are well attended, and have a most salutary influence, by diffusing the instructions of able professors through all classes of the community. The Garden of Plants belongs to the government, and is supported at an annual expense of more than fifty thousand dollars, giving employment to about two hundred persons.

LETTER XXXVIII.

EXCURSION TO LA GRANGE.

December, 1825.

OUR visit to La Grange occupied four days, which will often be recalled and fondly remembered as among the happiest of my life. A knowledge of the fact, that General La Fayette is frequently overrun with company, and that he was about to leave his country residence with his family, to pass the winter in Paris, half induced us to relinquish the idea of visiting La Grange for the present; when some of our friends returned from a similar excursion, bearing to us a most friendly note from the General, and expressing a hope that we would visit him before going to Italy. Such a kind and cordial invitation removed all doubts, and was promptly accepted.

On the morning of the 27th of December, we took the Diligence for the village of Rosé, within about two miles of which La Grange is situated, forty miles in an easterly direction from Paris. Our exit from the metropolis was through the Place Royal, the Place Bastille, and the Place du Trone; thence by the Barrier, Palace, and Forest of Vincennes, up the banks of the Marne, which is one of the largest branches of the Seine, being nearly as broad and deep as the river, in which it loses its waters and its name. In one place it makes a circuitous route of several miles round a high peninsula, which is only half a mile across, and through which a subterranean canal has been cut, navigable for boats. For the first few miles, this route presented many interesting objects. The Palace of Vincennes is a large venerable pile, without much ornament, and occupied at present as a state prison. Several events of some interest to the traveller have transpired within its walls. Here the two great Princes of Condé were imprisoned for years; and here Charles V. Cardinal Mazarine, and Henry V. of England expired. The forest of Vincennes covers a wide tract, consisting of a small growth of natural woods, through which avenues and vistas open in all directions.

At the distance of eight or ten miles from Paris, the road becomes comparatively dull, leading through an agricultural country not remarkable for its fertility, and studded with little villages, which add nothing to its beauty. Midway in the journey, the Diligence stopped at a small inn to take breakfast or dinner, call it which you will, as the bill of fare is generally much the same, not even excepting soup. On the plate from which I took my mutton chop, was a representation of General

La Fayette on horseback, in the attitude of storming a fortress, with the following inscription:

"Il s'elance le premier dans la Redoutte."

At a table on the opposite side of the room, engaged in taking such a déjeuné as the little tavern afforded, sat a group of three ladies and a gentleman, whose faces, dresses, and genteel manners attracted our attention, and who were, as it was subsequently ascertained, a part of General La Fayette's family, on their way to town to attend the examination of a literary institution, in which one of the juvenile inmates of La Grange bore off the palm of scholarship. It was gratifying to witness what a lively interest the intelligence of this triumph, and the early promise it held out of future distinction excited in the whole circle at the Chateau.

We reached the village of Rosé at 5 o'clock in the evening; and that no unnecessary claims might be made to the hospitality of General La Fayette, or his family subjected to any inconvenience, we dined at the hotel, before taking a carriage and setting out for La Grange. On arriving at the Chateau, the General gave us a warm reception, and presented us to his numerous and interesting family, consisting of a son, two daughters, and twelve grand children, with a beautiful and accomplished daughter of Count Segur, together with two or three other inmates, making in all a circle of something more than twenty. Simplicity, politeness, and affability of manners, genuine kindness of heart, and unaffected hospitality characterize the whole group, from the patriarch himself down to the youngest of his descendants. They need only the American name-a claim to nativity in the land of Washington and Franklin-to call forth all the warmth and generosity of their feelings, making the stranger at once at home, and treating him with the cordiality of a friend or brother. The only uneasiness which the visitant experiences, arises from a fear, that the proverbial politeness of the French, accompanied with all the enthusiasm of feeling, will subject the family to inconveniences on his account, and lead them to do too much for his happiness.

The evening glided away delightfully and almost imperceptibly, in the midst of conversation on a variety of topics, chiefly relating to our country for the inmates of the Chateau talk and seem to think of nothing else than the United States, where their feelings, their hopes, and wishes all centre. The General considers himself emphatically a citizen of the American Republic, and familiarly speaks of it precisely in the same way, as if he had been there born and educated. He re

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ceives a great number of American newspapers, reviews, and other publications, and regularly corresponds with many of his friends in every part of the Union. These various sources of information, perused with the utmost attention, added to the astonishing accuracy of his observations and recollections of circumstances connected with his tour, render him better acquainted with the condition of our country, than almost any one of its actual residents. He has visited every state in the confederacy under very favourable circumstances, having been introduced to the most prominent individuals, and seen a large proportion of the whole population in each. A package of letters and papers had just reached him, and he gave us a detailed account of events, which were new to us, and of an interesting character.

In the course of the evening, he often reverted to the scenes he had visited, and to the friends with whom he had met and parted, with no expectation of ever seeing them again. Many anecdotes were related which had escaped attention, even in the voluminous reports of our papers. He stated that during the thirteen months occupied in his tour, he travelled between sixteen and seventeen thousand miles; and that his health had been greatly improved, instead of impaired, by the necessary fatigues of such a constant scene of bustle and activity. Before he left home, he had been troubled with a chronic affection, which had entirely disappeared; and his health is as perfect as his happiness at the result of his visit. I could not but feel a degree of pride and pleasure, that our country had in any degree been instrumental in contributing to the domestic felicity of such a man and such a family, who merit all, and if possible, more than all the gratitude and esteem they have received at our hands.

Before retiring to our chambers to dream only of La Grange, we examined some of the principal rooms of the Chateau, our hospitable friends kindly acting as expositors. The furniture is perfectly neat, and even elegant, but bears no marks of extravagance or luxury-nothing which is incompatible with a refined taste, and a republican simplicity of manners-nothing which does not conduce more to convenience and comfort than to show; and which could be compared in point of richness and splendour, as the General himself remarked, with what he had gratuitously been made master of in his tour through the United States. The ornaments are nearly all American. In the hall at the head of the stair-way, and forming the entrance to the drawing room, is a portrait of General Washington, with the colours of the frigate Brandywine, (presented by Commodore Morris on his arrival at Havre,) hung in graceful festoons around the almost idolized picture. On the right of the Father of his country, is a fine portrait of Frank

lin, copied by one of the accomplished grand-daughters of General La Fayette. In a conspicuous part of the hall, stands an admirable bust of President Adams, presented by Mrs. Adams, just before the General left Washington. To these are added a portrait of Commodore Morris, (taken by particular request,) and several pictures connected with the history of our Revolution. The rotunda, or drawingroom contains, besides other decorations, a painting of the seige of Yorktown, and a portrait of General Wadsworth, the revolutionary friend of La Fayette.

At 10 o'clock, which is uniformly the hour for retiring at La Grange, we took leave of the circle for the night, and were shown into our bedchambers, after having been notified, that the ringing of the Chateau. bell would summon us to breakfast at 10 the next morning. Our apartments were in the same style of neatness and comfort, as the sittingrooms, with a cheerful wood fire blazing upon the hearth, and carpets covering the polished oaken floor. As is usual in French houses, furnished with fewer conveniences than this, each chamber had a bureau, or scrutoire, containing an ample supply of pen, ink, and paper, together with other appendages for writing, all under lock and key. The temptations of such comforts, the whistling of the wind round the Gothic turrets and antique windows of the Chateau, with the delights of a fire-side reverie on the events of the day, induced us to protract our waking dreams to a late hour.

In the morning a grey-headed servant, who is almost as old as the master whom he loves, and from whom he has imbibed his kindness of heart, opened the door gently, and performed his office of rekindling the fire, with such studied quiet, as would scarcely disturb the slumbers of a sick bed. We reached the drawing-room in season, to see the members of the happy family appear one after another, and share the paternal kiss. Breakfast was served up in a large hall on the ground floor, in the usual French style, with wine, and coffee after the dessert. The table was crowned with abundance, without superfluity; and a circle of smiling faces would have rendered a less sumptuous repast agreeable. Among the rarer dishes, was a kind of pie extremely rich and delicate, sent as a rarity to the General from some of his friends at Strasbourg.

After breakfast was over, we walked out in company with Washington La Fayette and the whole group of ladies, to examine the exterior of the Chateau, and the farm, of which scarcely a glance had as yet been obtained. La Grange was formerly a fortified baronial castle; and notwithstanding the modifications it has undergone, much of its antique and feudal character still remains. It was once surrounded

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