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moselle cup. After salmon, either claret cup, claret, or port.*
After Entrees.—In order to pander to the prevailing weakness of the day, and assuming that the champagne is choice in quality and perfectly iced, this much overrated, but now favourite wine with the ladies, may be introduced and continued throughout the dinner — but, strictly speaking, it should be reserved until the roast has been served. Never use the present round saucer animalcula-catching champagne glasses, but properly fashioned tulip-shaped ones.
After Game.—Either claret cup or port.
After Ices.—Cherry-brandy in Bohemian liqueur glasses; all other liqueurs are destructive of the palate.
Should oysters precede the soup, a glass of Chablis or Sauterne.
Oysters or anchovy toast should be substituted for cheese; the handing round of the latter is more honoured in the breach than the observance.
Have a bill of fare sent up of what is ready in the kitchen to be dressed, so that each person can order what he fancies. It is often painful to see plates of eggs and ham, cutlets, kidneys, come up and get
* White Cup and Sauces follow White Fish—Bed Cup and Brown Sauces, Red or Brown Fish. The same rule applies to White and Brown Meats.
cold—especially when, in many houses, persons do not assemble at a fixed hour.
It is very essential that the butler should be on the most charitable terms with the cook, so as to give due effect to their respective departments, as well as to ensure a cordial co-operation on the part of the whole establishment; it being now an acknowledged axiom that, with a good cook and a little mutual forbearance, domestic comfort and worldly happiness are greatly promoted. It is also necessary for a butler to be very circumspect in his conduct: exacting strict economy and care throughout his department. Early rising is requisite: drones must not be permitted to remain in the hive, punctuality being indispensable.
Taking the range of service, it is universally admitted that none are so well off as domestic servants, or in so good a position to save their earnings, and acquire the good will and patronage of their employers: few, however, profit by the opportunities offered, owing, in nine cases out of ten, to want of education and good conduct. If a person, well to do in the world, is pointed out as having originally been a confidential servant in a nobleman's or gentleman's family, it will be found almost invariably, on enquiry, that he or she seldom neglected religious duties— always attending public worship on the Sabbath; and while on this portion of the subject, let it not be forgotten that the Book of Proverbs contains a code of ethics, which may truly be said to epitomise the common sense of philosophy, fitting it, as it were, for the daily study and practice of all grades of society: indeed, the reading of the Proverbs, and pondering over, and applying them hourly, cannot be too strictly enjoined in all households. The precepts lay down the foundation of all moral conduct, and may be not inaptly described as somewhat analogous to Soyer's fundamental receipts, Nos. 1, 7, and 134, mentioned in his "Treatise on Gastronomy," as forming the basis of the culinary art.*
The foregoing synopsis, when sanctioned by conventional usage, will be sufficient, as a general guide,
* Some reform is absolutely necessary with regard to that pampered and overpaid class of footmen who, whether rents are paid or unpaid, or famine and distress be desolating the land, still keep up their exorbitant demands. A tall, overgrown country lout from the plough, uneducated,'is often speedily transformed into a ladies* footman, and thinks himself entitled to demand the war-price of five pounds per foot for his services, and two or three suits of livery, he turns up his nose at good wholesome plain food, declares his master keeps a orrid bad table; that the beer is heocecrahle, &c. In good old times, servants prided themselves on being family fixtures; now no young man considers he is bettering himself if he stays more than a year or two in one place, and when new liveries are issued, "Jeames" begins to talk of disagreeables in the servants' hall, and not being comfortable with his fellow servants; and, after a few years in livery, he thinks himself competent to fill the responsible situation of house-steward and butler, or groom of the chambers. There are, no doubt, many honourable exceptions to the above rule; after all women are by
to establish something like discipline and uniformity of practice in those essentials admitted to be necessary for regulating the movements of the "corps domestique," in order to secure combined action when auxiliary aid is required to assist the permanent establishment in serving a banquet.
Formulas for keeping simple and correct accounts of the expenditure in each department of the household should be provided, without which no establishment can be said to be well regulated. The want of this necessary and salutary check and supervision, has caused the ruin of many aristocratic families, especially in Ireland and Scotland, owing, in a great measure, to an utter forgetfulness that hospitality must be regulated by income, in order to guard against improvident expenditure; at the same time, it must be allowed, that the recent social revolution involved in the so-called Free Trade policy of the country has confiscated the property of many, not by any fault of their own, but solely by unjust and un-English Acts of Parliament, brought forward and advocated by statesmen who sacrificed their honour for the sake of office. \¥ould that the ever-to-belamented Lord George Bentinck were now alive— but he yet speaks from the tomb!
far the most valuable domestic servants, and do more work without bustle than any in-door footman, and do not require so much looking after. There is one reform already pretty generally established, and that is, no mourning is now given unless servants have lived in the family two years, and are likely to remain.
The following receipts will be found particularly useful on board yachts, and most refreshing after recovering from sea sickness, the effects of which were thus graphically described by a sufferer on board a cutter belonging to the Royal Yacht Squadron, placed by the owner at his disposal for a month's cruise. Being a nautical green hand, he was, of course, determined to prove himself every inch a sailor, by keeping out at sea for a week: he suffered accordingly, and was unable to move from his couch ; when, however, the weather moderated, and after being two days without food, he ordered some chicken broth; but no sooner had he raised himself, and swallowed a spoonful or two, than he dropped his head again on the pillow, and exclaimed, "Man wants but little here below, and not that little long.—Steward!! the basin!!! Quick!!!! Oh Yacht, my head!!!!!"
The steward, fortunately, was an old experienced hand, and admiring the determined pluck of his