Kew Bridge; have all witnessed their joyous meetings. The following account of one of them will serve as an example.

The only survivor of this jovial crew, thus narrates the tale :

"It was during the Easter-week of 183- that I was unfashionable enough to remain in London, instead of following the world to Brighton, Hastings, Leamington, or Cheltenham, to enjoy the luxuries of those cockney paradises.

The annual day of diversion devoted to the citizens had arrived, and hundreds, nay thousands, were wending their way to Greenwich and Stepney. Whilst ruminating as to how I should pass my afternoon, I was agreeably surprised at the receipt of the following note:

"DEAR

"Cannon has just fired me off a flaming report of his health, and as the spring has set in with its usual severity, and the easterly winds prevail, he proposes an al fresco dinner at Hampstead, Highgate, Barnes, or his far famed eel pious (eel pie house). He suggests that you and I should act as caterers ; you to find the eatables, I the drinkables, he the appetite. Talks of fish from the Groves, chops from Hatchets, and perpetrates some wretched puns, which, according to Dr. Johnson, must make us look out for our pockets. Seriously-What say you to a trip to

the Jolly Anglers at four? There, in a punt, you'll find the gentle crafty Dean, taking his perch. Gentles and simples before him.

"P.S.-Remember we are engaged this day week, or, as one of the pressgang says, in that detestable paper, John Bull, which I set my face against, every Sunday morning—

"With my frothy grey jennet,

This very day se'nnight,

We'll drive in my dennet,

To dine with the dean.'

66 6

Yours ever,

"T. E. J.'

"No sooner had I replied in the affirmative to this note, than I proceeded to Peacock's for a jar of turtle, to Grove's for the freshest fish, to Giblet's for some lamb chops cut with the kidneys, to Covent Garden Market for cucumbers, seven shillings a piece, to Morel's for a terrine de foie gras, and started in a hack cab for the scene of action. Just as I had crossed Hammersmith Bridge I overtook Theodore Hook in his cab; to place his hamper of wine and spirits by the side of my basket of provisions, to jump into his conveyance, and get his tiger to act as guard over the united stock, was the work of an instant. After a drive through a cutting easterly wind, with March dust enough, as the adage says, to furnish a King's

ransom, and a treacherous hot sun, we reached the spot, and there beheld the reverend gentleman, sitting with a parrot on his finger, and a dog by his side, the latter rather of the turnspit order. We are late,' observed Hook, and as Sam Slick says, "the Dean's fairly ryled, got his dander up, and when he shows clear grit, he looks wicked ugly." Stop! I'll give him a dose of "soft sawder," that will take the frown out of his frontispiece, and make his dial-plate as smooth as a lick of copal varnish.' Theodore, with that laughing good-humoured manner for which he was famous, tried to appease the wrath of the Dean of Patcham. It's no joke to keep me waiting half an hour,' said the Dean, and began to clear his throat for action. There,' said Hook, aside, I see a regular norwester a bruin, his very hair stands right up on eend like a cat's back when she's wrathy. But, old Deanums,' continued the wit aloud,

we were deWhat do you No, we'll say nothing

tained, you know, in catering for you. thing of the rage of the ·

about rage, but confine ourselves to the love of the turtle, as Byron writes.' Turtle,' answered Cannon drily, I generally judge of the dinner by the Test-udo.' After this dreadful Latin pun Hook proceeded, And these bright Cameleon variegated beauties-feel their roe-half a dozen mack 'rel all of a row.' 6 Well, I'm glad you've brought them,' interrupted the Dean, 'for I just asked the waiter what fish he had in the house, and his reply was "soles and heels." One can't

dine off shoe leather.' Hook again continued-'Then the lamb chops, you know, are of the right kidney, and last, not least, the Strasburg geese liver pie.'

"Poor critters,' responded Cannon, somewhat mollified; though to be crammed and kept before a hot fire such a day as this, would be no great penalty.' But where are the rest of the party?' I inquired. You, too, are late,' responded the cynic; fashionable, I suppose, the "cream of the cream," (as the self-styled exclusives call themselves,) think it good manners to keep the plebeians waiting.' Only listen,' I rejoined; Covent-Garden market was rather out of my way, but as I knew you were devoted to early cucumbers, I have brought you this punnet.' The fragrance of this delicious luxury completely overpowered the senses of the Dean, who, with one of his happiest smiles, said, 'It's the privilege of an Englishman to grumble, and I have had some little cause of complaint, for there's Ingoldsby and the "chirruper," (alluding to one of the most popular choristers of the day,) in the house, as some one says,

Drinking warm brandy, genial purl or stout,

And poor old Deanums taking cold without.

The songs, the sayings, the good-humour, the unalloyed delight of that festive day, will never pass from remembrance, although the thought that the hearts that then beat high, vibrate no longer, casts a melancholy feeling of gloom over the scene.'

D

And now for a few remarks touching suppers. Α talented French writer thus panegyrises this most social meal. "When five or six men of congenial tastes form a society to talk over during the evening all the agreeable impressions of the day, and who are themselves familiar with all that is going on in the world, and with those who are causing any sensation in it, the pleasure of suppers cannot be equalled."

The nature of this repast must, however, entirely depend on the season. Cold boiled chickens, which are not so dry as roasted ones, are an indispensable dish; oysters from October to March, opened in the room, brawn, plover's eggs, poached eggs, lobsters plain, in salad, and hot au gràtin, cold pies, dressed crabs, afford a sufficient choice of the principal materials out of which to furnish the viands. If a grill be considered essential, the following modus operandi is worthy of notice :

Let the fowl or turkey be neatly carved into legs, breast, wings, back, and merry-thought; score them with a knife, and rub them well over with mustard, not leaving some parts plastered over, and others bare; then add the Dutch sauce à la Belvoir, No. 7 (see Part III.), taking care that both sides have an equal quantity of the necessary accompaniments. Place the whole in a large dish, and serve thoroughly grilled and hot. Many think there is no art required to send up this dish; this is a great mistake. How