persuasive and energetic terms we could think of in the Spanish language, to rid ourselves of this pest; it was quite useless, and we were obliged to submit to the importunities of this half-naked troop. We visited some of the churches of Laguna, but saw nothing in them worthy of comment, as they no longer retain even the appearance of village churches. It was, also, our intention to have visited the university, but we met with no one but a very ill-tempered functionary, who refused to shew us the place. The environs of Laguna, and the plains surrounding it, are covered with little cabins with sloping roofs of thatch, greatly resembling the cottages of the peasantry in the Alps and Pyrénées. The animals grazing in the fields, are strong and handsome, but the general appearance of the country is bare and monotonous, like that of the plains of la Brie; wheat alone can be cultivated here, as the fruits of the tropics cannot be brought to perfection. We remained a little time at Laguna, in order to visit Agua Guillen, and the Fuente de las Mercedes, which are the two great points of attraction in the environs, and both of which are situated in the midst of a forest, beneath a perfect dome of verdure, the evergreen beauty of which remains the same through every change of season. forests in the Canaries are not so majestic as those of America, Malacca, and India, the natural objects of which they are composed, being more like those of our own country in appearance; indeed, were it not for those two species of the convolvolus, called the canariensis and scoparius, which twine themselves spirally round the laurel tree, ardisia, viburnum, in thick

The

22

ENVIRONS OF LAGUNA.

wreaths, and if the number of splendid ferns, almost like trees, did not invest the scene with a character peculiar to itself, I could have fancied myself in one of my native woods of oaks, beeches, and birch trees. In this sunny and well-watered land, vegetation is remarkably abundant and beautiful; the superb forest trees strike their strong roots deep into the pebbly soil, every block of basalt which lies loose upon the surface of the soil is covered by mosses, ferns, and convolvolus plants, with a robe of flowery beauty; the laurel tree and ardisia flourish on the intermediate part of the hills and mountains; a little higher up, rises a species of pine, which, but for its larger size, and more majestic mien, bears a great resemblance to that of the Alps; while on the highest point of all, ferns and cystus plants stretch up to the limits where arborescent vegetation ceases, and where the soil produces only herbaceous plants. I have wandered a great deal over all these places, but in each of them have been struck by the extreme scarcity of the animal species, having, in these solitary parts, seen but very few birds, and hardly any insects; only a few butterflies, here and there, roaming over the flowers; even the canary-bird itself has almost disappeared from its native clime it is only very rarely that one is to be seen with its green and yellow plumage, perched on the summit of a tree, nor has their note so regular and clear a tone as that of their European brethren, whose plumage differs very much from that of the primitive bird. One thing, which appeared to me very singular, was, that nearly all the parts most thickly wooded with forest trees, were almost entirely stripped of all other vegeta

THE MUSEUM OF LAGUNA.

23

tion. On returning to Agua Guillen, we crossed one of these places entirely destitute of plants of any kind, and inhabited by a small fawn-coloured eagle, which filled the air above us with its loud and savage cries. When we again set foot on arable ground, we found the peaceable, but half civilized possesors of these domains, living in little natural grottoes, which formed their only shelter. The same places had probably been, some centuries ago, the residences of the ancient inhabitants of these parts, the old families of Guanches. What has become of the lawful possessors of Teneriffe? most probably they died in defence of their country, and the conquerors who have succeeded them, seem to have no fear that another victorious race shall, at some future time, extirpate them from the land they have usurped.

On returning to Laguna, we paid a visit to what the people ostentatiously call their museum, where we saw nothing but a few broken shells, wretched looking birds, and two mummies from Guanches, which were, certainly, not worth so much as those in the collection of the Faculté de Médicine at Montpellier, which were, very likely, presented to the establishment by Broussonnet, who was French Consul in these regions. By and by, we shall have occasion to make further observations on this singular custom of embalming, which proves, that those who understood it, must have made considerable advances in civilization.

We left Laguna for Puerto d'Orotava at five o'clock in the morning, which was very beautiful, but rather cold; of course we travelled on horse back, and were preceded

24

THE VOLCANO OF TEYDE.

by guides, who, according to the custom of the country, sung bad Spanish verses all the way, the subject of which was an eulogy on their masters for the time being.

We surveyed with great interest the high peaks which surrounded us, and to which the geologists of the present day have given the expressive name of cones de soulèvement. The great volcano of Teyde raises its majestic head, like that of a giant over all; the summit is enveloped in a sort of mist, the light vapour resembling the sacred veil thrown over the face of an idol, which permits the eye to divine the outline of the figure, but not to behold the effulgence of its full beauty. The road from Laguna to Orotava is a most delightful one, diversified by fertile and cultivated plains, deep silent forests, and arid coasts, on which we perceived circular elevations, which we fancied were the remains of ancient volcanoes.

By the way we met several native women in their masculine hats, and two or three men, wearing the large white garment, which they use as a dress by day, and a bed by night; and at long intervals, large numbers of mules laden with merchandise, the driver's voice encouraging his patient companion, which travelled on with its neck bent, and its quick eyes always on the watch. Camels were introduced into the Canaries a short time after the conquest by a French gentleman, named M. De Bethencourt; since which time they have become extremely useful in a country where there is so little pasture ground.

Shortly after leaving Laguna, we took the road to our left, and found ourselves in a thick wood, which con

ducted us to Agua-Garcia, a pretty little piece of water, which flows beneath the laurel trees, which hang over its limpid stream, the silvery waters of which meander over a thick mossy bank, amid the trunks of decayed trees, the thick foliage of the fern, and the bending branches of the ilex, spreading a delicious freshness and fertility over the gardens of a little village at the extremity of the wood, one of the houses of which I entered; it looked the most respectable dwelling in the place, but was very shabby, with a thatched roof, and the inhabitants were seated round a large dish of boiled lupine, which served instead of bread, being accompanied by raw onions; however this frugal fare seemed to agree with these good people extremely well, for the men had the appearance of robust health, while the women were strong and fresh-looking. On leaving the woods of Agua-Garcia, the road descends gradually, and turning to the other side of the mountain, leads to the valley of Orotava, the first sight of which surprises the traveller exceedingly-the scene behind him, with its thick woods, bare and grisly rocks, and wheat fields, is at once changed, by a turn of the road, for a very different spectacle, presenting to view an immense amphitheatre, in the midst of which are numerous towns, hamlets, villages, orange and citron gardens, vineyards, pine woods, and as a finish to the picture, the sea and the great volcano. It is alike impossible not to be astonished at the beauty and variety crowded into so small a space, and not to envy the inhabitants of this lovely Eden. As we went along, we could not take our eyes off the magnificent panorama, which comprises Orotava, El