monks, through ignorance, changed it into Undecim mille, eleven thousand."

This town was of no account in former times, and is chiefly of note in the present as being a great thoroughfare to the north-western part of England. Before the road was diverted from Cookham, (in which direction it formerly ran,) it was scarcely known; but that circumstance immediately gave it all the importance which is to be gained from becoming the constant resort of travellers. It was formerly governed by a warden and burgesses, but it now has a mayor and corporation. The town consists of one long street, running in a direct line from the bridge, which connects it with Buckinghamshire, with several smaller ones branching therefrom. It possesses a court-house, gaol, and chapel, which last is peculiar to the corporation; the choice of its minister being in the inhabitants generally, such minister not being obliged to attend the Bishop's visitation. There are several good inns in the town, and one at the foot of the bridge on the Buckinghamshire side, called the Orkney Arms, where travellers will find their charges more reasonable than the appearance of the house and the accommodation afforded might lead them to expect. At this point the pathway again changes into Berkshire.

Immediately on bidding farewell to the lastmentioned town, the scene assumes a new and romantic feature; and it must be observed, that the

two counties seem to have changed sides; for instead of the hills, valleys, and woods, observable in Berkshire prior to our reaching Maidenhead, we have now in their stead extensive plains, adorned here and there with clusters of beautiful whitewashed cottages, looking the more neat and pretty from the clustering rose-trees in full bloom that generally adorn them. On the contrary, Buckinghamshire, in lieu of its plains, presents rocky heights and falling fountains, with abundance of wood.

Leaving Maidenhead, we approach the beautiful seats of Cliefton and Taplow, both of which were formerly the property of the Earl of Inchiquin.

Cliefton House, or, as it was anciently called, Cliefden, was erected by Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, in the reign of Charles the Second. This house was sometime the residence of Frederick, Prince of Wales, the father of George the Third, and it was here that Thompson's play of Sophonisba was first performed.

The two houses above mentioned, though totally distinct as to the manner in which they are built, differing widely also as they do in all their arrangements, and in the laying out of the grounds, are yet perfect specimens of their kind; the former as a castellated mansion, fit only, by its extent and domestic arrangements, for the habitation of princes; while Taplow is a delightful scene of cottage simplicity and rural ease. Instead

of lordly terraces and wide and well-drained walks, is beheld serpentining ways through its numerous woods, and the murmur of rivulets and streams. surprise and please the passer-by, while, by their presence is given that notion of retirement and rusticity, so often desired, but so seldom enjoyed, by the inhabitants of large towns.

Quitting this assemblage, alike of the romantic. and sublime, we descend from its wooded heights and pleasing summits to gain once more the banks of our favourite stream. The appearance of the little river Wick, here reminds us of Hedsor Lodge, the seat of Lord Boston, the grounds surrounding which are laid out in a very superior style, and form a fit accompaniment to the scenes of Clieften and Taplow. It is built on an ascent, from whence is gained a beautiful prospect, if abundance of wood and water, diversified in every form that nature in her most wanton freaks could imagine, deserves that name.

The little stream just mentioned rises above West Wycombe, and after running but a few miles distance, alike loses its name and being in the absorbing waters of the Thames.

Let us now turn our attention to Cookham, a village very pleasantly seated on the river's side, which, at this point assumes the shape of a horse shoe, and, after passing this village, turns suddenly to the right, and so continues until it reaches the town of Marlow.

COOKHAM is prettily situated

But to return.

in a very fertile

plain; it is composed of several small streets, but has nothing in particular to distinguish it from the many quiet sequestered, and, let us hope, happy spots which characterise not only the banks of this noble river, but the face of the country generally.

In the church, on the south wall, beneath a monument of alabaster, is seen the figure of a man in armour, while near him stands the figure of his wife, as also those of his two sons and three daughters, the following lines being subscribed on the tomb :

To Christall Skies let fame resound the vertous praise aright,
Of Arthur Balham, here depicted in alabaster bright;

Of antient race he did descend, and thereto as you heare,
He took a wife, a worthy dame, Alice, the daughter deare
Of Sir John Browne, in Oxfordshire, a Knight of worthy
fame,

Of whom six children did proceed, as herein this doth name.
John, the first, deceased is, Christopher next the heire,
Elizabeth and Columbree, Ursurla and Elumere.

Soe this dame Alice hath erect this work of costly stone,

For her sweet Arthur Balham's sake, though he be dead and gone.

Farewell renowned true Esquire, my husband and my friend, I hope in heaven to meet with thee, when all things here have end.

There is a horse ferry from Cookham to the opposite shore.

Following the course of the stream, we pass a range of hills to the left, known as the Quarry Hills, whose appearance, covered as they are to the very summit, with foliage of every kind and

description, is most imposing, adding a charm to the scene, at once unexpected and pleasing.

The paths of these woods, which we had not time to unravel, seem by no means strange to the lads and lasses of the neighbouring villages, many of whom we met in boats, merrily making their way for the woods, there to spend in harmless mirth a happy, and, we hope, a deserved holiday. It was amusing to hear (after they had landed and made way into the deep recesses of these wooded heights) the echo of their voices, now calling for their companions, lost in the trackless maze, and then the loud peals of laughter, occasioned by their sudden and unexpected recognition.

Absorbed in beholding the magnificence of these hills, and our attention fixed by observing the happiness of its human inhabitants, the ground is insensibly passed over, and we arrive at a part of the river within a short distance of Great Marlow, studded over with numerous little aits, on which oziers are grown, whose wild luxuriance imparts an additional charm, which, to be properly felt, must be seen. These aits form, in fact, a complete Archipelago, but on a very small scale.

The town of GREAT MARLOW, at which we now arrive, derives its name from the soil in the neighbourhood, which is a kind of chalk or marl, useful as manure its ancient name was Marlaw. It is a market town of some extent, consisting of one principal street, with several minor ones branching therefrom. It sent members to Parliament