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two or three sheep which I had still left on board, and 1965. at length the Indians, perceiving what they were do
Aprid. ing, ran immediately, and tearing up all the weeds, they could get, carried them to the boat, which in a very short time was filled almost up to her gunwale. I was much gratified by this token of their good-will, and I could perceive that they were pleased with the pleasure that I expresfed upon the occasion: they had indeed taken such a fancy to us, that when I returned on board the boat, they all got into their canoe, and followed me. When we came near the ship, however, they stopped, and gazed at her as if held in surprize by a mixture of astonishment and terror ; but at last, though not without some difficulty, I prevailed upon
four or five of them to venture on board. As soon as they entered the ship I made them several presents, and in a very little time they appeared to be perfectly at ease. As I was very desirous to entertain them, one of the midshipmen played upon the violin, and some of my people danced ; at this they were so much delighted, and so impatient to thew their gratitude, that one of them went over the ship's fide into the canoe, and fetched up a seal skin bag of red paint, and immediately smeared the fidler's. face all over with it: he was very desirous to pay me the same compliment, which however I thought fit to decline; but he made many very vigorous efforts to get the better of my modefty, and it was not without some difficulty that I defended myself from receiving the honour he designed me in my own despight. After having diverted and entertained them several hours, I intimated that it would be proper
for them to go on shore ; but their attachment was such, that it was by no means an easy matter to get them out of the ship. Their canoe was not of bark, but of planks sewed together.
On Sunday the 7th, at fix o'clock in the morning, Sunday 2. we weighed, with a moderate breeze at E. N. E. and fine weather. At seven, we were a-breast of Cape Upright: and at noon, it bore E. S. E. distant four leagues : soon after we tried the current, and found it set to the eastward at the rate of a knot and an half an
At three it fell calm, and the current driving us to the eastward very fast, we dropped an anchor, VOL. I.
1765 which before it took the ground was, in one hundred April.
and twenty fathom.
This day, and not before, the Tamar's boat returned from the westward : she had been within two or three leagues of Cape Pillar, and had found several
very good anchoring-places on the south shore. Monday 8.
At one o'clock the next morning, having a fresh gale at weit, we weighed, notwithstanding the weather was thick, and made fail ; at eleven it blew very hard, with violent rain and a great sea, and as we perceived that we rather lost than gained ground, we stood in for a bay on the south shore, about four leagues to the westward of Cape Upright, and anchored in twenty fathom : the ground was not good, but in other refpects this was
one of the best harbours that we had met with in the Streight, for it was impossible that any wind should hurt us. There being less wind in the afternoon, and it inclining a little towards the south, we unmoored at two, and at four, the wind having then come round to the S. S. E. and being a moderate breeze, we weighed and steered to the westward : we made about two leagues and an half, but night then coming on, we anchored, not without great difficulty, in a very good bay on the south shore in twenty fathom. As
very violent gusts came from the land, we were very near being driven off before we could let go an anchor, and if we had not at last succeeded we must have passed a dreadful night in the Streight ; for it blew a hurricane from the time we came to an anchor till the morning, with violent rain, which was sometimes in
termingled with snow. Tuesdag 9.
At six o'clock, the wind being still fresh and squally: at S. S. E. we weighed and steered W. by N: along the south shore. · At eleven, we were abreast of Cape Pillar, which by the compass is about fourteen leagues W. N. from Cape Upright. Cape Pillar may be known by a large gap upon the top, and when it bears W. S. W.
off it which has an appearance somewhat like a hay-stack, and about which lie several rocks. The Streight to the eastward of the Cape is between seven and eight leagues over : the land on each side is of a moderate height, but it is lowest on the north fhore, the south fhore being ntuch
the boldest, though both are craggy and broken. Weftminster Island is nearer to the north than the south shore; and by the compass, lies N. E. from Cape Pillar. The land on the north shore, near the west end of the Streight, makes in many islands and rocks, upon which the sea breaks in a tremendous manner. The land about Cape Vi&tory is distant from Cape Pillar about ten or eleven leagues, in the direction of N. W. by N. From the Cape westward, the coast tends S. S. W.; W. to Cape Deseada, a low point, off which lie innumerable rocks and breakers. About four leagues W. S. W. from Cape Defeada lie fome dangerous rocks, called by Sir John Narborough the Judges, upon which a mountainous surf always breaks with inconceivable fury. Four small islands, called the Islands of Direction, are distant from Cape Pillar about eight leagues, in the direction of N. W. by W. When we were off this Cape it was stark calm ; but I never saw such a swell as rolled in here, nor such a. furge as broke on each shore. I expected every moment that the wind would spring up from its usual quarter, and that the best which could happen to us would be to be driven many leagues up the Streight again. Contrary, however to all expectation, a fine steady gale sprung up at S. E. to which I spread all the fail that it was possible for the ship to bear, and ran off from this frightful and desolate coast at the rate of nine miles an hour ; so that by eight o'clock in the evening we had left it twenty leagues behind us. And now to make the ship as stiff as possible, I knocked down our after bulk-head, and got two of the boats under the half-deck ; I also placed my twelve-oared cutter under the boom ; so that we had nothing upon the skids but the jolly boat ; and the alteration which this made in the vesel is inconceivable ; for the weight of the boats upon the skids made her crank, and in a great sea they were also in danger of being loft.
It is probable, that whoever shall read this account of the difficulties and dangers which attended our pafsage through the Streight of Magellan, will conclude, that it ought never to be attempted again ; but that all ships which shall hereafter fail a western course from Europe into the South Seas ought to go round Cape
Horn. 1, however, who have been twice round Cape Horn, am of a different opinion. I think that at a proper season of the year, not only a single vessel, but a large squadron might pass the Streight in less than three weeks; and I think, to take the proper season, they should be at the eastern entrance some time in the month of December. One great advantage of this passage, is the facility with which fith is almost every where to be procured, with wild celery, scurvy-grass, berries, and many other vegetables in great abundance ; for to this I impute the healthiness of my ship's company, not a single man being affected with the scurvy in the Nightest degree, nor upon the fick lift for any other disorder, notwithstanding the hardship and labour which they endured in the passage, which cost us seven weeks and two days, as we entered the Streight on Sunday the 17th of February, and quitted it on Tuesday the gth of April. Wood and water are also to be procured almost at every anchoring-place beyond Fresh Water Bay. Our sufferings I imputed wholly to our passing the Streight just as the sun approached the equinox, when in this high latitude, the worst weather was to be expected : and indeed the weather we had was dreadful beyond all description.
CH A P. VIII.
The Run from the Western Entrance of the Streight of
Magellan, to the Isands of Disappointment.
our course to the westward, as appears by the Friday 26. track in the chart, till Friday, April the 26th, when we
discovered the island of Mafafuero bearing W. N. W. W. distant about sixteen leagues ; but as to the northward it was hažy, the island of Don Juan Fernandes, was not in sight. During this run the variation had gradually decreased from 22° to 9° 36' E.
We bore away for Masafuero, and at sun-fet, being
within about seven leagues of it, we brought to, and Saturd: 27. afterwards kept the wind all night. At day-break the
next day, we bore away again for the island, at the same me sending an officer, with a boat from each
ship, to sound the eastern side of it. About noon, the
April. middle of the island bore W. distant about three miles, and as I saw the boats run along the shore, without being able to land any where for the surf, I bore down to the north part of the island, off which a reef runs for the distance of about two miles, and lay by for them. This island is very high, and the greater part of it is covered with wood; but towards the north end, where I lay, some spois seemed to have been cleared, upon which
great numbers of goats were feeding, and they had a green and pleasant appearance. When the boats returned, the officer informed me that he had found a bank, on the east side of the island nearest to the south point, at a considerable distance from the shore, where we might anchor, and opposite to which there was a fine fall of fresh water ; but near the north point, he said, he could find no anchorage. The boats brought off a great quantity of very fine fish, which they had caught with hook and line near the shore ; and as foon as we had taken them on board, which was late in the afternoon, we made fail, and worked to wind. ward in the night.
At seven o'clock in the morning, we anchored with Sunday 28. the small bower, on the bank which the boats had difcovered, in twenty-four fathom, with black sandy ground. The extream points bore from S. to N. W. and the fall of water bore S. S. W. distant about a mile from the ship’s station. This part of the island lies north and south, and is about four miles long : the foundings are very regular, from twenty to fifteen fathom, within two cables length of the shore. Soon after we were come to an anchor, I sent out the boats to endeavour to get some wood and water, but as I observed the shore to be rocky, and a furf to break with great violence upon it, I ordered all the men to put on cork jackets, which had been sent with us to be made use of upon such occasions. By the help of these jackets, which not only assisted the men in swimming, but prevented their being bruised against the rocks, we got off a considerable quantity of water and wood, which, without such aslittance, we could not have done : there was, however, another species of danger here, against which cork jackets afforded no