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1765 day, where the Tamar lay in eighteen fathom, the March.

pitch of the Cape bearing W. by N. diftant half a mile. We found this place very safe, the ground being excellent, and there being room enough for two or three ships of the line to moor.

' "снА Р. VII.

The Passage from Cape Monday, in the Streight of

Magellan, into the South Seas ; with some general remarks on the Navigation of that Streight.

T eight the next morning we weighed, and foon Saturd. 23.

after we made sail opened the South Sea, from which such a swell rolled in upon us as I have seldom feen. At four o'clock in the afternoon, we anchored in a very good bay, with a deep found at the bottom, by which it may be known, about a league to the eastward of Cape Upright, in fourteen fathom. The extreme point of the bay bore from N. W. to N. E. by E. and Cape Upright W. N. W. about a cable's length to the eastward of a low island which makes

the bay. Sunday 24.

At three o'clock in the morning of the 24th, I sent a boat, with an officer from each ship, to look for anchoring places, to the westward ; but at four in the afternoon they returned, without having been able to get round Cape Upright.

The next morning I sent the boats again to the westMonday 25, ward, and about six in the evening they returned, hav

ing been about four leagues, and found two ancho

ring places, but neither of them were very good. We Tuesd. 26. made fail, however, about eight in the forenoon of

the next day, and at three, Cape Upright bore E. S. E. distant about three leagues, a remarkable cape on the north fhore at the same time bearing N. E. distant four or five miles. This Cape, which is very lofty and steep, lies N. N. W. by the compass from Cape Upright, at the distance of about three leagues. The south

shore in this place had a very bad appearance, many sunken rocks lying about it to a considerable distance, upon which the fea breaks very high. At four the weather became very thick, and in less than

half

March.

half an hour we saw the south shore at the distance of 1765. about a mile, but could get no anchoring place : we therefore tacked, and stood over to the north shore. At half an hour after six I made the Tamar’s signal to come under our stern, and ordered her to keep a-head of us all night, and to shew lights, and fire a gun every time she changed her tack. At seven, it cleared up for a moment just to shew us the north shore, bear. ing W. by N, we tacked immediately, and at eight the wind shifted from N. N. W. to W. N. W. and blew with great violence. Our situation was now very alarming; the storm increased every minute, the weather was extremely thick, the rain seemed to threat'en another deluge, we had a long dark night before us, we were in a narrow channel, and surrounded on every side by rocks and breakers. We attempted to clew up the mizen-topsail, but before this service could be done it was blown all to rags : we then brought to, with the main and fore-topsail close reefed, and upon the cap, keeping the ship's head to the south-west ; but there being a prodigious sea, it broke over us so often that the whole deck was almost continually under water. At nine, by an accidental breaking of the fog, we saw the high Cape on the north shore that has been just mentioned bearing east, at about a mile distance, but had entirely lost sight of the Tamar. At half an hour after three in the morning, we suddenly perceived Wednes. 27. ourselves close to a high land on the south shore, upon which we wore, and brought fo to the northward. The gale still continued, if possible, with increasing violence, and the rain poured down in torrents, so that we were, in a manner, immersed in water, and expected every moment to be among the breakers. The long wished-for day at length broke, but the weather was still so thick that no land was to be seen, though we knew it could not be far distant, till after fix, when we saw the south shore at about the distance of two miles ; and soon after, to our great satisfa&tion we saw the Tamar : at this time Cape Monday bore S. E. distant about four miles, and the violence of the gale not abating, we bore away. About seven, both ships came to an anchor in the bay which lies to the eastward of Cape Monday, notwithstanding the

sea

any where.

1765: sea that rolled in; for we were glad to get anchorage March.

We had now been twice within four leagues of Tuesday's Bay, at the western entrance of the Streight, and had been twice driven back ten or twelve leagues by such storms as we had now just experienced. When the season is so far advanced as it was when we attempted the passage of this Streight, it is a most difficult and dangerous undertaking as it blows a hurricane incessantly night and day, and the rain is as violent and constant as the wind, with such fogs as often render it impossible to discover any obje&t at the distance of twice the ship’s length. This day our best bower cable being quite rubbed to pieces, we cut it into junk, and bent a new one, which we rounded with

old rigging eight fathom from the anchor. Thurs. 28.

In the afternoon of the day following, the Tamar parted a new best bower cable, it being cut by the rock, and drove over to the east side of the bay, where she was brought up at a very little distance from some rocks, against which she must otherwise have been

dashed to pieces. Friday 29. At seven o'clock in the morning of the 29th, we

weighed and found our small bower cable very much
rubbed by the foul ground, so that we were obliged to
cut no less than fix and twenty fathom of it off, and
bend it again. In about half an hour the Tamar,
being very near the rocks, and not being able to pur-
chase her anchor, made signals of distress.
therefore obliged to Itand into the bay again, and ha-
ving anchored, I sent hawsers on board the Tamar,
and heaved her up while she purchased her anchor,
after which we heaved her to windward, and at noon,
being got into a proper birth, the anchored again.

We continued in our station all night, and the next Saturd. 30. morning a gale came

on at W. N. W which was still more violent than any that had preceded it; the water was torn up all round us, and carried much higher than the masts heads, a dreadful sea at the same time rolling in ; so that, knowing the ground to be foul, we were in constant apprehension of parting our cables, in which case we must have been almost inftantly dashed to atoms against the rocks that were just to leeward of us, and upon which the sea broke with

inconceivable

I was inconceivable fury, and a noise not less loud than thun- 1765. der. We lowered all the main and fore vards, let

Marcb.

go the small bower, veered a cable and an half on the best bower, and having bent the sheet cable, stood by the anchor all the rest of the day, and till midnight, the fea often breaking half-way up our main Throuds. About one in the morning, the weather became some- Sunday zi. what more moderate, but continued to be very dark, rainy and tempestuous, till midnight, when the wind shifted to the S. W. and soon afterwards it became comparatively calm and clear. The next morning, which was the first of April, we

April. had a stark calm, with now and then some light airs Monda; 1. from the eastward ; but the weather was again thick with hard rain, and we found a current setting strongly to the eastward. At four o'clock we got up the lower yards, unbent the sheet cable, and weighed the small bower; at eight we weighed the best bower, and found the cable very much rubbed in several places, which we considered as a great misfortune, it being a fine new cable which never had been wet before.

At eleven, we hove short on the stream anchor; but soon after, it being calm, and a thick fog coming on with hard rain, we veered away the stream cable, and with a warp to the Tamar, heaved the ship upon the bank again, and let go the small bower in two and twenty fathom.

At six in the evening, we had strong gales at W. N. W. with violent squalls and much rain, and continued in our station till the morning of the 3d, when Wednel. 3. I sent the Tamar's boat, with an officer from each ship to the westward, in search of anchoring-places on the south shore; and at the same time I sent my own cutter with an officer to seek anchoring-places on the north shore.

The cutter returned the next morning at six o'clock, Thurid. 4having been about six leagues to the westward upon the north fhore, and found two anchoring-places. The officer reported, that having been on shore, he fell in with some Indians, who had with them a canoe of construction

very
different from

any

that he had seen in the Streight before; this vessel consisted of planks fewed together, but all the others were nothing

a

more

1965. more than the bark of large trees tied together at the

ends, and kept open by short pieces of wood, which were thrust in transversely between the two sides, like the boats which children make of a bean shell. The people, he said, were the nearest to brutes in their manner and appearance of any he had seen: they were like some which he had met with before, quite naked, notwithstanding the severity of the weather, except part of a seal-skin which was thrown over their shoulders ; and they eat their food, which was such as no other animal but a hog would touch, without any drefsing: they had with them a large piece of whale blubber, which ftunk intolerably, and one of them tore it to pieces with his teeth, and gave it about to the rest, who devoured it with the voracity of a wild beast. They did not however look upon what they saw in the possession of our people with indifference; for while one of them was asleep, they cut off the hinder part of his jacket with a sharp fint which they use as a knife.

About eight o'clock, we made fail, and found little or no current. At noon, Cape Upright bore W. S. w. diftant three leagues, and at six in the evening, we anchored in the bay, on the southern shore, which lies about a league to the eastward of the Cape, and had fifteen fathom water.

While we were lying here, and taķing in wood and water, seven or eight Indians in a canoe came round the western point of the bay, and having landed opposite to the ship, made a fire. We invited them to come on board by all the signs we could devise, but without - success ; I therefore took the jolly boat, and went on shore to them. I introduced myself by making them presents of several trifles, with which they seemed to be much gratified, and we became very intimate in a few minutes : after we had spent some time together, I sent away my people, in the boat for some bread, and remained on shore with them alone. When the boat returned with the bread, I divided it among them, and I remarked with equal pleasure and surprise, that if a bit of the biscuit happened to fall, not one of them offered to touch it till I gave my consent. In the mean time some of my people were cutting a little grass for

two

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