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1765. January

leagues : at half an hour after five it bore S. S. E. diftant two leagues : and we then steered from it E. S. E. five leagues, to three low rocky islands which lie about two miles from the main. From these islands we steered S.S. E. four leagues, to two other low islands, which lie at the distance of about one mile from the main. Between these islands the land forms a very deep sound, which I called BERKELEY'S SOUND. In the south part of this found there is an opening, which has the appearance of a harbour ; and about three or four miles to the southward of the south point of it, at the distance of about four miles from the main, some rocks appear above the water, upon which the sea breaks very high, there being here a great swell from the southwart. When we were a-breast of these breakers, we steered S. W. by S. about two leagues, when the southermost Land in fight, which I took to be the southermost part of Falkland's Islands, bore W. S. W. diftant five leagues. The coast now began to be very dangerous, there being, in all directions, rocks and breakers at a great distance from the shore. The country also inland had a more rude and desolate

appearance; the high ground, as far as we could see, being all barren, craggy rocks, very much resembling that part of Terra del Fuego which lies near Cape Horn. As the sea now rose every moment, I was afraid of being caught here upon a lee shore, in which case there would have been very little chance of my getting off, and therefore I tacked and stood to the northward ; the latitude of the southermost point in sight being about 520 3' S. As we had now run no less than seventy leagues along the coast of this island it must certainly be of very considerable extent. It has been said by some former navigators to be about two hundred miles in circumference, but I made no doubt of its being nearer seven. Having hauled the wind, I stood to the northward about noon; the entrance of Berkeley's Sound at three o'clock bore S. W. by W. distant about six leagues. At eight in the evening, the wind fhifting to the S.W. we stood to the westward.


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The Passage through the Streights of Magellan as far as

Cape Monday, with a Description of several Bays and
Harbours, formed by the Coast on each side.

1765. February


Wedn. 6.

Thurs. 7.

E continued to make fail for Port Desire till

Wednesday the 6th day of February, when about one o'clock in the afternoon we saw land, and stood in for the Port. During the run from Falkland's Ilands to this place, the number of whales about the ship was so great as to render the navigation dangerous; we were very near striking upon one, and another blew the water in



quarter deck : they were much larger than any we had seen. As we were standing in for Port Desire, we faw the Florida, a store-ship that we expected from England; and at four we came to an anchor off the harbour's mouth.

The next morning, Mr. Dean, the master of the store-ship, came on board; and finding from his report that his foremast was sprung, and his ship little better than a wreck, I determined to go into the harbour, and try to unload her there, although the narrowness of the place, and the rapidity of the tides, rendered it a very dangerous situation. We got in in the evening, but it blowing very hard in the night, both the Tamar and the storeship made signals of distress; I immediately fent my boats to their assistance, who found that notwithstanding they were moored, they had been driven up the harbour, and were in the greatest danger of being on fhore. They were got off, not without great difficulty, and the very fiext night they drove again, and were again faved by the same efforts, from the same danger. As I now found that the storeship was continually driving about the harbour, and every moment in danger of being loft, I gave up, with whatever reluctance, my design of taking the provisions out of her, and sent all our carpenters on board, to fith the mast, and make such other repairs as they could. I also lent her my forge to complete such iron work as they wanted, and determined, the moment she was in a conditionto put to sea, to take herwith us into the Streight



of Magellan, and unload her there. While this was 1765

February. doing, Captain Mouat, who commanded the Tamar, informed me that his rudder was sprung, and that he had reason to fear it would in a short time become wholly unserviceable. Upon this I ordered the Carpenter of the Dolphin on board the Tamar, to examine the rudder, and he reported it to be so bad, that in his opinion the vessel could not proceed in her voyage without a new

A new one however it was not in our power to procure at this place, and I therefore defired Captain Mouat to get his forge on shore, and secure his rudder with iron clamps in the best manner he could, hoping that in the Streight a piece of timber might be found which would furnish him with a bettér.

On Wednesday the 13th, the store-ship being ready Wednes. 13 for sea; I put on board her one of my petty officers, who was well acquainted with the Streight, and three or four of my seamen to assist in navigating her; I also lent her two of my boats, and took those belonging to her, which were staved, on board to get them repaired, and then I ordered her Master, to put to sea directly, and make the best of his way to Port Famine; though I did not doubt but that I should come up with her long tefore she got thither, as I intended to follow her as soon as the Tamar was ready, and Captain Mouat had told me, that the rudder having been patched together by the joint labour and skill of the carpenter and smith, he should be in a condition to proceed with me the next morning.

The next morning we accordingly put to sea, and Thursd. 14. a few hours afterwards, being a-breast of Penguin Isand, we saw the store-fhip a long way to the eastward.

On Saturday the 16th, about six o'clock in the Saturd. 16. morning, we saw Cape Fairweather bearing W.S. W. at the distance of five or fix leagues į and at nine, we saw a strange fail to the N. W. ftanding after us.

On the 17th, at fix in the morning, Cape Virgin Sunday 17. Mary bearing fouth, distant five miles, we hauled in for the Streight, and the strange ship still followed

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On the 18th, we passed the first Narrow, and as I perceived the strange ship to have shaped the same


1765. course that we had, from the time she had first seen us, , February, shortening or making fail as we did, she became the Monday 12. subject of much speculation, and as I was obliged,

after I had got through the first Narrow, to bring to for the store-lhip, which was a great way a-stern, I imagined the would speak with us, and therefore I put the Thip into the best order I could. As soon as he had passed the Narrow, and saw me lying to, he did the fame about four miles to windward of me. In this situation we remained till night came on, and the tide setting us over to the south shore, we came to an anchor; the wind however shifted us before morning, and at day break I saw our satellite at anchor about three leagues to leeward of us. As it was then tide of flood, I thought of working through the second Narrow ; but seeing the stranger get under way, and work up towards us, I ran dire@ly over into Gregory Bay, and brought the ship to an anchor, with a spring upon our cable: I also got eight of our guns, which were all we could get at, out of the hold, and brought them over on one side. In the mean time the ship continued to work up towards us, and various were our conjectures about her, for the shewed no colours, neither did we. It happened about this time that the store-ship, as she was endeavouring to come to an anchor near us, ran a-ground; upon which the stranger came to an anchor a little way a-stern, at the same time hoisting French colours, and sending his launch, and another boat, with an anchor to assist her. Still however I shewed no colours, but fent my own boats, and a boat of the Tamar’s to assist the store-ship, giving orders at the same time to the officers, not to suffer the French boats to come on board her, but to thank them in polite terms for the assistance they intended. These orders were punctually obeyed, and with the atliftance of cur own boats only, the store-ship was foon after got off: my people reported that the Frerch ship was full of men, and feemed to have a great number of officers on board.

At fix o'clock in the evening, I made the signal and weighed; we worked through the second Narrow, and at ten o'clock passed the west end of it: at eleven, we anchored in seven fathom off Elizabeth's Island ; and the French ship at the same time anchored in a bad

situation, situation, to the southward of Saint Bartholomew's 1765 Inand, which convinced me that she was not acquaint

February. ed with the channel.

At fix o'clock the next morning, I weighed and Tues. 19. failed between Elizabeth and Bartholomew Islands, with the wind at N. W. and after steering S. S. W. five or fix miles, we crossed a bank, where among the weeds we had seven fathom water. This bank lies W. S. W. five or six miles from the middle of George's Island, and it is said in some former accounts, that in many places there is not three fathom water upon it: the danger here therefore is considerable, and to avoid it, it is necessary to keep near Elizabeth's Illand till the western shore is but at a short distance, and then a southern course may be steered with great safety, till the reef, which lies about four miles to the northward of Saint Anne's Point, is in sight. At noon this day, the north point of Fresh Water bay bore W. by N. and Saint Anne's Point S. by E E. The French ship still steered after us, and we imagined that she was either from Falkland's Islands, where the French had then a settlement, to get wood, or upon a survey of the Streight. The remaining part of this day, and the Wedn. 20. next morning, we had variable wind with calms; in the afternoon therefore I hoisted out the boats, and towed round Saint Anne's Point into Port Famine : at fix in the evening we anchored, and soon after the French ship passed by us to the southward.

Here we continued till Monday the 25th, when both Monday 25. the Dolphin and Tamar having taken out of the storeship as much provisions as they could ftow, I gave the Master of her orders to return to England as soon as he could get ready, and with the Tamar sailed from Port Famine, intending to push through the Streight before the season should be too far advanced. At noon, we were three leagues distant from Saint Anne's Point, which bore N. W. and three or four miles distant from Point Shutup, which bore S. S. W. Point Shutup bears from Saint Anne's Point S. E. by the compass, and they are about four or five leagues afunder. Between those two Points there is a flat fhoal, which runs from Port Famine before Sedger river, and three or four miles to the southward. VOL. I.


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