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where I might get on board such wood and water as 17hg.

January we wanted.

Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, however, being very desirous to go on shore, I sent a boat with them and their people, while I kept plying as near as possible with the ship.

Having been on shore four hours, they returned about nine in the evening, with above an hundred different plants and flowers, all of them wholly unknown to the botanists of Europe. They found the country about the bay to be in general fat, the bottom of it in particular was a plain, covered with grass, which might easily have been made into a large quantity of hay; they found also abundance of good wood and water, and fowl in great plenty. Among other things, of which Nature has been liberal in this place, is Winter's bark, Winteranea aromatica; which may easily be known by its broad leaf, shaped like the laurel, of a light green colour without, and inclining to blue within ; the bark is easily stripped with a bone or a stick, and its virtues are well known; it may be used for culinary purposes as a spice, and is not less pleasant than wholesome ; here is also plenty of wild celery and scurvy grafs. The trees are chiefly of one kind, a species of the birch called Betula antarctica; the stem is from thirty to forty feet long, and from two to three feet in diameter, lo that in a case of necessity they might possibly supply a Thip with top-mafts; they are a light white wood, bear a small leaf, and cleave very straight. Cranberries were also found here in great plenty, both white and red.

The persons who landed faw none of the inhabitants, but fell in with two of their deserted huts, one in a thick wood, and the other close by the beach.

Having taken the boat on board, I made fail into the Streight, and at three in the morning of the 15th I an-Sundays chored in twelve fathoms and an halt, upon coral rocks, before a small cove, which we took for Port Maurice, at the distance of about half a mile from the shore. 'Two of the natives came down to the beach, expecting us to land; but this spot afforded so little felter, that I at length determined not to examine it: I therefore got under fail again about ten o'clock, and the savages retired into the woods.

At

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1769.

At two o'clock we anchored in the bay of Good
January, Success; and after dinner I went on shore, accompa-

nied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, to look for a
watering place and speak to the Indians, feveral of
whom had come in sight. We landed on the starboard
fide of the bay near some rocks, which made smooth
water and good landing; thirty or forty of the Indians
foon made their appearance at the end of a sandy beach
on the other side of the bay; but seeing our number,
which was ten or twelve, they retreated. Mr. Banks
and Dr. Solander then advanced about one hundred
yards before us, upon which two of the Indians return-
ed, and, having advanced some paces towards them,
sat down; as soon as they came up, the Indians rose,
and each of them having a small stick in his hand,
threw it away, in a direction both from themselves
and the strangers, which was considered as the renun-
ciation of weapons in token of peace; they then walk-
ed briskly towards their companions, who had halted at
about fifty yards behind them, and beckoned the gen-
tlemen to follow, which they did. They were re-
ceived with many uncouth signs of friendship ; and,
in return, they distributed among them some beads
and ribbons, which had been brought on shore for that
purpose, and with which they were greatly delighted.
A mutual confidence and good-will being thus pro-
duced, our parties joined ; the conversation, such as
it was, became general; and three of them accompa-
nied us back to the ship. When they came on board,
one of them, whom we took to be a priest, performed
much the same ceremonies which M. Bougainville
describes, and supposes to be an exorcism. When he
was introduced into a new part of the ship, or when
any thing that he had not seen before caught his at-
tention, he shouted with all his force for some minutes,
without directing his voice either to us or his compa-
nions.

They eat some bread and some beef, but not ap-
parently with much pleasure, though such part of
what was given them as they did not eat they took
away with them ; but they would not swallow a drop
either of wine or spirits: they put the glass ta their
tips, but having tasted the liquor, they returned it,

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with strong expressions of disgust. Curiosity seems to 1769. be one of the few passions which distinguish men from January: brutes ; and of this our guests appeared to have very little. They went from one part of the ship to another, and looked at the vast variety of new objects that every moment presented themselves, without any expression either of wonder or pleasure, for the vociferation of our exorcist seemed to be neither.

After having been on board about two hours, they expressed a desire to go a-shore. A boat was immediately ordered, and Mr. Banks thought fit to accompany them : he landed them in safety, and conducted them to their companions, among whom we remarked the fame vacant indifference, as in those who had been on board; for as on one side there appeared no eagerness to relate, so on the other there seemed to be no curiosity to hear, how they had been received, or what they had seen. In about half an hour, Mr. Banks returned to the ship, and the Indians retired from the Thore,

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An Account of what happened in ascending a Mountain

to search for Plants. O N the 16th, early in the morning, Mr. Banks and Monday 16.

Dr. Solander, with their attendants and servants, and two seamen to assist in carrying the baggage, accompanied by Mr. Monkhouse the Surgeon, and Mr. Green the Astronomer, set out from the ship, with a view to penetrate as far as they could into the country, and return at night. The hills, when viewed at a distance, seemed to be partly wood, partly a plain, and above them a bare rock. Mr. Banks hoped to get through the wood, and made no doubt, but that, beyond it, he should, in a country which no botanist had ever yet visited, find alpine plants which would abundantly compensate his labour. They entered the wood at a small sandy beach, a little to the westward of the watering-place, and continued to ascend the hill, through the pathless VOL. I.

Dd

wilderness,

1969. wilderness, 'till three o'clock, before they got a near January. view of the places which they intended to visit. Soon

after they reached what they had taken for a plain ; but, to their great disappointment found it a swamp, covered with low bushes of birch, about three feet high, interwoven with each other, and so stubborn that they could not be bent out of the way; it was therefore necessary to lift the leg over them, which at every step was buried ancle deep, in the soil. To aggravate the pain and difficulty of fuch travelling, the weather, which hitherto had been very fine, much like one of our bright days in May, became gloomy and cold ; with luddin blasts of a moft piercing wind, accompanied with snow. They pushed forward, however, in good spirits, notwithstanding their fatigue, hoping the worst of the way was past, and that the bare rock which they had seen from the tops of the lower hills, was not more than a mile before them ; but when they had got about two thirds over this woody swamp, Mr. Buchan, one of Mr. Banks's draughtmen, was unhappily seized with a fit. This made it necessary for the whole company to halt, and it was impossible that he fhould go any farther, a fire was kindled, and those who were most fatigued were left behind to take care of him. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Mr. Green, and Mr, Monkhouse went on, and in a short time reached the summit. As botanists, their expectations were here abundantly gratified; for they found a great variety of plants, which, with respect to the alpine plants in Europe, are exactly what those plants are with respe&t to such as grow in the plain.

The cold was now become more severe, and the frow-blafls more frequent; the day also was so far spent, that it was found impossible to get back to the ship before the next morning: to pass the night upon such a mountain, in such a climate, was not only comfortless, but dreadful ; it was impossible however to be avoided, and they were to provide for it as well as they could.

Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, while they were improving an opportunity which they had, with so much Jänger and difficulty procured, by gathering the plants which they found upon the mountain, fent Mr.Green and

Mr.

Mr. Monkhouse back to Mr. Buchan and the people 1769. that were with him, with directions to bring them to a

January hill, which they thought layin a better route for returning to the wood, and which was therefore appointed as a general rendezvous. It was proposed, that from this hill they should push through the swamp, which seemed by the new route not to be more than half a mile over, into the shelter of the wood, and there build their wigwam, and make a fire: this, as their way was all down hill, it seemed easy to accomplish. Their whole company assembled at the rendezvous, and though pinched with the cold, were in health and spirits, Mr. Buchan himself having recovered his strength in a much greater degree than could have been expected. It was now near eight o'clock in the evening, but ftill good daylight, and they set forward for the nearest valley, Mr. Banks himself undertaking to bring up the rear, and see that no straggler was left behind: this may perhaps be thought a superfluous caution, but it will soon appear to be o herwise. Dr. Solander, who had more than once crossed the mountains which divide Sweden from Norway, well knew that extreme cold, especially when joined with fatigue, produces a torpor and sleepi ness that are almost irresistible : he therefore conjured the company to keep moving, whatever pain it might coft them, and whatever relief they might be promised by an inclination to reft: Whoever sits down, says he, will sleep, and whoever sleeps will wake no more. Thus, at once admonished and alarmed, they set forward: but while they were still upon the naked rock, and before they had got among the bushes, the cold became suddenly fo intense, as to produce the effe&s that had been mort dreaded. Dr. Solander himself wa's the first who found the inclination, against which he had warned others, irresistible ; and insisted upon being suffered to lie down. Mr. Banks intreated and rea' monstrated in vain, down he lay upon the ground, though it was covered with snow; and it was with great

difficulty that his friend kept him from Neeping. Richmond also, one of the black servants, began to linger, having suffered from the cold in the same manner as the Do&or. Mr. Banks, therefore, fent five of the company, among whom was Mr. Buchan, forward to get a Dd 2

fire

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