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1767. April.

shore for wood and water. The Indians, who were in the canoes, kept their eyes fixed upon the boat while she was manning, and the moment she put off from the ship, they called out with great vociferation to those that were on board, who seemed to be much alarmed, and hastily handing down the children, leaped into their canoes, without uttering a word. None of us could guess at the cause of this sudden emotion, but we saw the men in the canoes pull after the boat with all their might, hallooing and shouting with great appearance of perturbation and distress.

The boat outrowed them, and when she came near the shore, the people on board discovered some women gathering muscles among the rocks. This at once explained the mystery ; the poor Indians were afraid that the strangers, either by force or favour, should violate the prerogative of a husband, of which they seemed to be more jealous than the natives of some other countries, who in their appearance are less savage and sordid. Our people, to make them easy, immediately lay upon their oars, and suffered the canoes to pass them. The Indians, however, still continued to call out to their women, till they took the alarm and ran out of sight, and as soon as they got to land, drew their canoes upon the beach, and followed them with the utmost expedition.

We continued daily to gather muscles till the 5th, when several of the people being seized with fluxes, the surgeon desired that no more muscles might be brought into the ship.

The weather being still tempestuous and unsettled, we remained at anchor till ro o'clock in the morning of Friday the roth, and then, in company with the Swallow, we made fail. At noon, Cape Providence bore N. N. W. distant four or five miles; at four in the afternoon Cape Tamer bore N. W. by W. įW. distant three leagues, Cape Upright E. S. E. I S. distant three leagues, and Cape Pillar W. distant 10 leagues, We steered about W., N. all night, and at fix o'clock in the morning, had run eight and thirty miles by the log. At this time Cape Pillar bore S. W. diftant half a-mile, and the Swallow was about three miles a-stern

At this time there being but little wind, we

Sund. 5.

Friday 1o.

Satur. II.

of us.


were obliged to make all the fail we could, to get 5767.

April without the Streight's mouth. At 11 o'clock I would have shortened sail for the Swallow, but it was not in my power, for as a current set us strongly down upon the Isles of Direction, and the wind came to the welt, it became absolutely necessary for me to carry fail, that I might clear them. Soon after we lost sight of the Swallow and never saw her afterwards. At first I was inclined to have gone back into the Streight, but a fog coming on, and the sea rising very fast, we were all of opinion that it was indispensably necessary to get an offing as soon as possible ; for except we pressed the ship with sail, before the sea rose too high, it would be impracticable either to weather Terra del Fuego on one tack, or Cape Victory on the other. At noon, the Islands of Direction bore N. 21' W. diftant three leagues, Saint Paul's cupola and Cape Vi&tory in one, N. diftart seven leagues, and Cape Pillar E. diftant six leagues.

Our latitude, by observation was 52° 38' and we computed our longitude to be 760 W.

Thus we quitted a dreary and inhospitable region, where we were in almost perpetual danger of shipwreck for near four months, having entered the Streight on the 19th of December 1766, and quitted it on the uth of April 1767; a region where, in the midst of Sun. mer, the weather was cold, gloomy, and tempestuous, where the prospects had more the appearance of a chaos than of Nature, and where, for the most part, the vallies were without herbage, and the hills without wood.

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A particular Acount of the places in which we anchor

ed during our pasage through the streight, and of the Shoals and Rocks that lie near them.

TAVİNG cleared the Streight, we steered a western

course. But before I continue the narrative of our voyage, I shall give a more particular account of the several places, where we anchored, plans of which




are deposited in the Admiralty Office for the use of future navigators, with the shoals and rocks that lie near them, the latitude, longitude, tides, and variation of the compass.

I. CAPE VIRGIN MARY. The bay under this Cape is a good harbour, when the wind is westerly. There is a shoal lying off the Cape, but that may easily be known by the rock weed that grows upon it: the Cape is a steep white cliff, not unlike the South Foreland. Its latitude, by observation, is 52° 24' S. and its longitude, by account, 680 22' W. The variation of the needle, by the medium of five azimuths and one amplitude, was 24° 30' E. In this place we saw no appearance either of wood or water. We anchored in 10 fathom, with coarse fandy ground, about a mile from the shore, Cape Virgin Mary bearing N.

W.; W. diftant about two miles, and Dungeness Point S. S. W. distant four miles. We anchored here on the 17th of December, and failed the next day. There is good landing, on a fine sandy beach, all along the thore.

II. POSSESSION BAY. In sailing into this bay, it is necessary to give the point a good birth, because there is a reef runs right off it about a short mile. The foundings are very irregular all over the bay, but the ground is every where a fine soft mud and clay, so that the cables can come to no damage. The Point lies in latitude 52° degrees 23' S. longitude, by account 68° 57' W. the variation is two points easterly. In the bay the tide rifes and falls between four and five fa. thom, and runs at the rate of about a mile an hour ; in the mid-channel without the bay, it runs nearly three miles an hour. In this place we saw no appearance either of wood or water. The landing appeared to be good, but we did not go on shore. We anchored here on the 19th of December, and sailed again on the 22d.

III. PORT FAMINE. At this place the Spaniards, in the year 1581, built a town which they called Philippeville, and left in it a colony, consisting of 400 persons. When our celebrated navigator, Cavendish, arrived here in 1587, he found one of these unhappy wretches, the only one that remained, upon the beach :

they they had all perished for want of fubsistence, except twenty-four ; twenty-three of these set out for the river Plata, and were never afterwards heard of. This man whose name was Hernando, was brought to Ergo land by Cavendith, who called the place where he had taken him up, Port Famine. It is a very fine bav, in which there is room and conveniency for many ships to moor in great safety. We moored in nine fathom, having brought Cape St. Anne N. E. by E. and Sedger River S. ; W. which perhaps is the best fituation, though the whole bay is good ground. In this place there is very good wooding and watering: we caught many fine small fish with a hook and line off the ship’s fide, and hauled the feine with great success, in a fine sandy bay, a little to the southward of Sedger River : we also shot a great number of birds, of various kinds, particularly geese, ducks, teal, snipes, plover and race-horses, and we found wild celery in great plenty. The latitude of this place is 53° 42' S. longitude, by observation, 71° 28' W. the variation is two points easterly. We anchored here the 27th of December 1766, and failed again the 18th of January 1767.

IV. CAPE HOLLAND BAY. There is no danger in failing into this bay, and there is good anchoring ground in every part of it. We lay at about three cables length from the shore, in ten fathom, the ground coarse sand and shells, Cape Holland bearing W. S. W. į W. diftant three miles, Cape Froward a little to the N. of the E. Right abreast of the ship there was a very fine rivulet, and close under Cape Holland a large river, navigable for boats many miles : the shore also affords fire-wood in great plenty. We found abundance of wild celery and cranberries, mufcles and limpets, but caught very little fish, either with hook and line, or the feine. We killed some geese, ducks, teal, and race-horses, but they were not plenty. This bay lies in latitude 53° 57' S. longitude, by account, 72° 34' W. the variation is twopoints easterly. The water rose about eight feet ; we found, however, no regular tide, but for the most part a strong current setting to the eastward. Wé anchor


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ed here on the 19th of January, and failed again on

the 23d.

is good.

V. CAPE GALLANT Bay. In this bay, which may be entered with great safety, there is a fine large lagoon, where a fleet of ships may moor in perfea lecurity. There is a depth of four fathom in every part of it, with a soft muddy ground. In the bay, the beft anchoring is on the east lide, where there is from fix to ten fathom. Here is good watering from two rivers, and plenty of wood. The lagoon abounded with wild fowl, and we found wild celery, muscles, and limpets in plenty. We did not haul the feine, having torn one to pieces, and the other being unpacked, but if we had, there is reason to believe that we should have been well supplied with fish. The landing

The latitude of the bay and lagoon is 53• 500 S. longitude, by account, 73° 9' W. the variation ! two points easterly. I observed the water to rise and fall about nine feet, but the tide was very irregular. We anchored here the 23d of January, and failed again the 28th.

VI. ELIZABETH'S BAY. At the entrance of this bay there are two small reefs, which appear above water. The most dangerous lies off the east point of the bay, but this may easily be avoided, by keeping at the distance of about two cables length from the point. There is good landing all round the bay, bur it is much exposed to the westerly winds. The best place for anchoring is Passage Point, at half a mile distance, bearing S. E. and the river bearing N. E. by E. diftant three cables length; in this situation, a bank or fhoal, which may be known by the weeds, bears W. N. W. diftant a cable's length : the ground is coarse sand, with shells. Sufficient wood is to be procured here for the use of ships, and there is good watering at a small river. We found a little celery and a few cranberries, but neither fifh nor fowl. The latitude of this place is 53° 43' S. the longitude, by account, 73° 24' W. the variation is two points eafterly. We anchored here the 29th of January, and failed the 4th of February.

VII. YORK ROAD. The only danger of failing into the bay, that is formed by two points in this road,


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