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with only the cockswain in her, who was a very dirty 1765. ragged fellow : as soon as he was brought to me, he November

. asked whence I came, whither I was bound, and many other questions which I thought equally impertinent, at the same time pulling out a book, and pen and ink, that he might set down the answers; but as I was impatient to save him this trouble, he was desired immediately to walk over the ship's fide, and put off his boat, with which he was graciously pleased to comply.

When we came to this place, we had not one man sick in either of the ships ; but as I knew it to be more unhealthy than any other part of the East Indies, as the rainy season was at hand, and arrack was to be procured in great plenty, I determined to make my stay here as short as possible. I went on shore to wait upon the Dutch Governor, but was told that he was at his country house, about four miles distant from the town: I met however with an officer, called a shebander, who is a kind of master of the ceremonies, and he acquainted me, that if I chose to go to the Governor immediately, rather than wait for his coming to town, he would attend me; I accepted his offer, and we set out together in his chariot. The Governor received me with great politeness, and told me, that I might either take a house in any part of the city that I should like, or be provided with lodgings at the hotel. This hotel is a licensed lodging house, the only one in the place, and kept by a Frenchman, an artful fellow, who is put in by the Governor himself. It has indeed more the appearance of a palace than a house of entertainment, being the most magnificent building in Batavia; nor would a small edifice answer the purpose, for as there is a penalty of five hundred dollars upon any person in the city who shall suffer a stranger to sleep a single night at his house, the strangers who make it their residence are never few : all the houses indeed have a stately appearance on the outside, and are elegantly fitted up within, and we are told that the Chinese, of whom there are great numbers at this place, were the architeats. The city is large, and the streets well laid out, but they have greatly the appearance of those in the cities of Holland, for a canal runs through most of


1765. them, with a row of trees planted on each side: this is November,

convenient for the merchants, who have every thing brought up to their own doors by water, but it probably contributes to the unhealthiness of the place; the canal, indeed, as the city is built in a fwamp, might be necessary as a drain, but the trees, though they have a pleasant appearance, must certainly prevent the noxious vapours that are perpetually arising, from being dispersed, by obstructing the circulation of the air.

The number of people here is incredible, and they are of almost every nation in the world, Dutch, Portuguese, Chinese, Perfians, Moors, Malays, Javanese, and many others : the Chinefe, however, have a large town to themselves, without the walls, and carry on a considerable trade, for they have annually ten or twelve large junks from China; and to these the opulence of the Dutch at Batavia is in a great meafure owing. The beef here is bad, and the mutton scarce, but the poultry and fish are excellent and in great plenty. Here are also the greatest variety and abundance of the finest fruit in the world, but the mufquitos, centipieds, scorpions, and other noxious vermin, which are innumerable, prevent all enjoyments, and even rest, as well by night as by day. The roads, for many miles about the city, are as good as any in England: they are very broad, and by the sides of them runs a canal, fhaded by tall trees, which is navigable for vessels of a very large size: on the other fide of the canal are gardens, of a very pleasant appearance, and country houses of the citizens, where they spend as much of their time as possible, the situation being less unwholesome than the city : and there are so few of them who do not keep a carriage, that it is almost a disgrace to be seen on foot.

At this place I continued from the 28th of NovemMonday 10. ber to the roth of December, when having procured

what refreshments I could for my people, and taken on board a fufficient quantity of rice and arrack, to serve for the rest of the voyage, I weighed anchor and made fail. The fort saluted me with eleven guns, and the Dutch Commodore with thirteen, which I returned we were faluted also by the English ship. We worked down to Prince's Island, in the Streight of Sunda, and



came to an anchor there on the 14th. In this passage,,, 1765.
the boats came off to us from the Java shore, and sup- November.
plied us with turtle in such plenty, that neither of the Friday 14.
ships companies eat any thing else. Welay at Prince's
Island till the 19th, and during all that time we sub-Wednes. 19.
lifted wholly upon the same food, which was procured
from the inhabitants at a very reasonable rate. Having
now taken on board as much wood and water as we
could stow, we weighed, and got without Java Head
before night : but by this time a dangerous putrid
fever had broke out among us ; three of my peo-
ple had died, and many others now lay in so dange-
rous a condition that there were little hopes of their
recovery : we did not, however, bury one at Batavia,
which, notwithstanding our stay was so short, was
thought to be a very extraordinary instance of good
fortune ; and our fick gradually recovered after we had
been a week or two at sea.

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The pasage from Batavia to the Cape of Good Hope,

and from thence to England.

one of

E continued our course, without any event 1766. notice



best February men unhappily tell overboard and was drowned, till Monday the roth of February, when at six o'clock Monday 10. in the morning, we saw the coast of Africa, bearing from N. N. W. to N. E. diftant about seven leagues : it made in several high hills, and white sandy cliffs, and its latitude was 34° 15' S. longitude 21° 45' E. the variation here was 220 W. and our depth of water fifty-three fathom, with a bottom of coarse brown fand.

I stood in for the land, and when I was within about two leagues of it, I saw a great smoke rifing from a sandy beach. I imagined the smoke to be made by the Hottentots ; yet I was astonished at their chusing this part of the coast for their residence, for it consisted of nothing but sand banks as far as we could see without the least bush or single blade of verdure,


Wednef. 12.

Triday 14

3766. and so heavy a sea broke upon the coast, that it was February.

impoflible to catch any fish.

On Wednesday the 12th, at three o'clock in the afternoon, we were a-breast of Cape Lagullas, from which the coast lies W. N. W. to the Cape of Good

Hope, which is distant about thirty leagues. The Thurf. 13. next day, we passed between Penguin Island and Green

Point, and worked into Table Bay with our top-fails clofe reefed, there being a strong gale, with hard squalls at S. S. E. At three o'clock in the afternoon we anchored, and faluted the fort, which was returned. The Dutch told me, that none of their ships could have worked in, in such a gale of wind, and that we seemed to come in faster than they were generally able to do when the wind was fair.

The next morning, I waited upon the Governor, who had sent his coach and six to the water side for me. He is an old man, but is a favourite with all ranks of people: he received me with the greatest politeness, and not only offered me the Company's house in the garden for my residence while I should continue at the Cape, but his coach whenever I should think fit to use it. As I was one day at dinner with him, and some other gentlemen, I took occasion to mention the smoke that I had seen upon one of the sandy beaches on a desolate part of the coast, and the surprise with which it had struck me : they then told me that another ship, some time before, had fallen in with that part of the coast, and had seen large smokes as I had done, although the place was uninhabited, and supposed to be an island: to account for the smokes, however, they told me also, that two Dutch EastIndiamen had, about two years before, failed from Batavia for the Cape, and had never afterwards been heard of; and it was supposed that one or both of them had been shipwrecked there, and that the smokes which had been seen, were made by some of the unfortunate crew; they added, that they had more than once sent out vessels to look for them, but that there broke so dreadfula sea upon the coast, that they were obliged to return without attempting to go on shore. When I heard this melancholy account, I could only regret that I had not known it before, for I would then certainly

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have made every effort in my power to have found 1766.
these unhappy wretches, and taken them from a place February.
where now, in all probability, they must miserably

The Cape is certainly a most excellent place for ships
to touch at; it is a healthy climate, a fine country,
and abounds with refreshments of every kind. The
Company's garden is a delightful spot, and at theend
of it there is a paddock belonging to the Governor, in
which are kept a great number of rare and curious
animals, and among others, when I was there, were
three fine ostriches, and four zebras of an uncommon
size. I gave all the people leave to go on shore by
turns, and they always contrived to get very drunk
with Cape wine before they came back. Many ships
came in while we lay here ; some were Dutch,
fome French, fome Danes, but all were outward

Having continued here three weeks, and during that time refreshed our men, and completed our water, I took leave of the good old Governor, on the 6th of March. March, and on the 7th, failed out of the bay with a Friday 7. fine breeze at S. E.

On Sunday the 16th, at six in the morning we saw Sund. 36. the island of Saint Helena, bearing W. by N. at the distance of about sixteen leagues, and about naon, a large ship which shewed French colours. We pursued our course, and a few days afterwards, as we were sailing with a fine gale, and at a great distance from land, the ship suddenly received a rude shock, as if she had ftruck the ground : this instantly brought all who were below upon the deck in great consternation, and upon looking out we saw the water, to a very large extent, tinged with blood ; this put an end to our fears, and we concluded that we must have struck either a whale or a grampus from which the ship was not likely to receive much damage, nor in fact did she receive any. About this time allo we had the misfortune to bury our carpenter's mate, a very ingenious and diligent young man, who had never been well after our leaving Batavia.

On the 25th, we crossed the equator, in longitude Tuesday 25 17° 10' W. and the next morning, Captain Cumming came on board, and informed me that the Tamar's


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