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the season in which we were here. The rains were 1765.

August. violent, and almost incessant, and the heat was so great as to threaten us with fuffocation. The thermometer, which was kept on board the ship, generally stood at eighty-six, which is but nine degrees less than the heat of the blood at the heart ; and if it had been on thore it would have risen much higher. I had been upon the coast of Guinea, in the West Indies, and upon the island of Saint Thomas, which is under the Line, but I had never felt any such heat as I felt here. Besides the inconvenience which we suffered from the weather, we were incessantly tormented by the flies in the day, and by the musquitos in the night. The island also swarms with centipieds and scorpions, and a large black ant, scarcely inferior to either in the malignily of his bite. Besides these, there were venemous insects without number, altogether unknown to us, by which many of us suffered so severely, that we were afraid to lie down in our beds; nor were those on board in a much better situation than those on fhore, for great numbers of those creatures being carried into the ship with the wood, they took poffeffion of every birth, and left the poor seamen no place of rest either below or upon the deck.

As soon as we were setiled in our new habitations, I sent out parties to discover the haunts of the cattle, some of which were found, but at a great distance from the tents, and the beasts were so shy that it was very difficult to get a shot at them. Some of the parties which, when their haunts had been discovered, were sent out to kill them, were absent three days and nights before they could succeed; and when a bullock had been dragged seven or eight miles through such woods and lawns as have just been described, to the tents, it was generally full of Ay-blows, and stunk so as to be unfit for use : nor was this the worst, for the fatigue of the men in bringing down the carcass, and the intolerable heat they suffered from the climate and the labour, frequently brought on fevers which laid them up. Poultry however we procured upon eafer terms; there was great plenty of birds, and they were easily killed ; but the flesh of the best of them


1765 Auguft.

was very ill-tasted, and such was the heat of the climate, that within an hour after they were killed it was ás green as grass, and fwarmed with maggots. Our principal resource for fresh meat, was the wild hog, with which the island abounds. These creatures are very fierce, and some of them so large that a carcass fre. quently weighed two hundred pounds. We killed them without much difficulty ; but a Black belonging to the Tamar contrived a method to snare them, so that we took great numbers of them alive, which was an unspeakable advantage ; for it not only ensured our eating the flesh while it was sweet, but enabled us to send a good number of them on board as sea-stores.

In the mean time we were very desirous of procuring fome beef in an eatable state, with less risk and labour; and Mr. Gore, one of our Mates, at last discovered a pleasant spot upon the north-west part of the island, where cattle were in great plenty, and whence they might be brought to the tents by sea. To this place therefore I dispatched a party, with a tent for their accommodation, and sent the boats every day to fetch what they should kill; sometimes however there broke such a sea upon the rocks that it was impossible to approach them, and the Tamar's boat unhappily lost three of her best men by attempting it. mw, upon the whole, pretty well supplied with provisions, especially as we baked fresh bread every day for the fick; and the fatigue of our people being less, there were fewer ill with the fever: but several of them were so much disordered by eating of a very fine looking fish which we caught here, that their recovery wag for a long time doubtful. The author of the account of Lord Anson's Voyage says, that the people on board the Centurion thought it prudent to abstain from fish, as the few which they caught at their first arrival surfeited those who eat of them. But not attending sufficiently to this caution, and too haftily taking the word surfeit in its literal and common acceptation, we imagined that those who tarted the fith when Lord Anson first came hither, were made fick merely by eating too much; whereas, if that had been the case, there would have been no reason for


We were

totally abstaining afterwards, but only eating tempe- 1765. rately. We however bought our knowledge by expe

Auguft. rience, which we might have had cheaper; for though all our people, who tasted this filh, eat sparingly, they were all soon afterwards dangerously ill.

Besides the fruit that has been mentioned already, this island produces cotton and indigo in abundance, and would certainly be of great value if it was situated in the West Indies. The Surgeon of the Tamar enclosed a large spot of ground here, and made a very pretty garden; but we did not stay long enough to derive any advantage from it.

While we lay here, I sent the Tamar to examine the island of Saypan, which is much larger than Tinian, rises higher, and, in my opinion, has a much pleasanter appearance. She anchored to the leeward of it, at the distance of a mile from the shore, and in about ten fathom water, with much the same kind of ground as we had in the road of Tinian. Her people landed upon a fine sandy beach, which is fix or seven miles long, and walked up into the woods, where they saw many trees which were very fit for top-mafts. They faw no fowls, nor any tracks of cattle; but of hogs and guanicoes there was plenty. They found no fresh water near the beach, but saw a large pond inland, which they did not examine. They saw large heaps of pearl oyster shells thrown up together, and other signs of people having been there not long before: posfibly the Spaniards may go thither at some seasons of the year, and carry on a pearl fishery. They also saw many of those square pyramidal pillars which are to be found at Tinian, and which are particularly described in the account of Lord Anson's Voyage.

On Monday, the 30th of September, having now Septemb. been here nine weeks, and our fick being pretty well recovered, I ordered the tents to be ftruck, and with the forge and oven carried back to the ship; I also laid in about two thousand cocoa-nuts, which I had experienced to be so powerful a remedy for the scurvy, and October. the next day I weighed, hoping that before we should Tuesd. 1. get the length of the Balhé Islands, the N. E. monToon would be set in. I stood along the shore to take in the beef-hunters; but we had very little wind this Vol. I. H


Mond. 3Q.

1765. day and the next till the evening, when it came to the O&tober.

westward and blew fresh : I then stood to the northWedn. 2.

ward till the morning of the 3d, when we made AnaThurs. 3. tacan, an island that is remarkable high, and the same that was first fallen in with by Lord Anson.

сн А Р. XII.

The Run from Tinian to Pulo Timoan, with fome Account

of that Island, its Inhabitants and Productions, and thence to Batavia.


Thurf. 10.

E continued our course till Thursday the 10th,

when being in latitude 18° 33' N. longitude 136° 50' E. we found the ship two and twenty miles to the southward of her account, which must have been the effect of a strong current in that dire&ion. The variation here was 5° 10' E. and for fome time we found it regularly decreasing, so that on the 19th, being in latitude 21° 10' N. longitude 124° 17' E. the

needle pointed due north. Frid. 18.

On the 18th, we had found the ship eighteen miles to the northward of her account, and saw several land birds about the thip, which appeared to be very much tired : we caught one as it was resting upon the booms, and found it very remarkable. It was about as big as a goose, and all over as white as snow, except the legs and beak, which were black ; the beak was curved, and of so great a length and thickness, that it is not easy to conceive how the muscles of the neck, which was about a foot long, and as small as that of a crane, could support it. We kept it about four months on biscuit and water, but it then died, apparently for want of nourishment, being almost as light as a bladder. It was very different from every species of the Toucan that is represented by Edwards, and I believe has never been described. These birds appeared to have been blown off some island to the northward of us, that is

not laid down in the charts. Tuerd. 22. The needle continued to point due north till the 22d,

when at six o'clock in the morning, Grafton's Island, the northermost of the Bashé Ifands, bore south, distant fix leagues. As I had designed to touch at




these islands, I stood for that in sight; but as the na

1765. vigation from hence to the Streight of Banca is very dangerous, and we had now both a fine morning, and a fine gale, I thought it best to proceed on our way, and therefore steered westward again. The principal of these islands are five in number, and by a good observation Grafton's Illand lies in latitude 21° 8' N. longitude 118° 14' E. The variation of the compass was now 1° 20' W.

On the 24th, being in latitude 16° 59' N. longitude Thursd. 24. 113° 1' E. we kept a good look-out for the Triangles, which lie without the north-end of the Prasil, and form a most dangerous shoal. On the 30th, we fiw Wednes. 30. several trees and large bamboos floating about the ship, and upon sounding had three and twenty fathom, with dark brown sand, and small pieces of shells. Our latitude was now 7° 17' N. longitude 104° 21' E.; the Thurs. 34. variation was 30' W. The next day we found the ship thirteen miles to the northward of her account, which we judged to be the effect of a current; and on the 2d Novemb. of November, we found her thirty-eight miles to the Saturd. 2. southward of her account. Our latitude by observation was 3° 54' N. longitude 103° 20' E. We had here soundings at forty-two and forty-three fathom, with foft mud.

At seven o'clock the next morning, we saw the Sunday 3. island of Timoan, bearing S. W. by W. distant about twelve leagues. As Dampier has mentioned Pulo Timoan as a place where some refreshments are to be procured, I endeavoured to touch there, having lived upon falt provisions, which were now become bad ever since we were at Tinian ; but light airs, calms, and a southerly current, prevented our coming to an anchor till late in the evening of the 5th. We had fixteen Tuesday 5. fathom at about the distance of two miles from the fhore, in a bay on the east side of the island.

The next day 1 landed to see what was to be got, Wednes. 6, and found the inhabitants, who are Malays, a furly insolent set of people. As soon as they saw us approaching the shore, they came down to the beach in great numbers, having a long knife in one hand, a spear headed with iron in the other, and a cressit or dagger by their side. We went on thore, however, notwithstand



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